Great video. My GE Adora side by side DSL26DHWASS has a constant problem with the freezer temperature dropping far below the 8ºF set point and I have to keep adjusting it back up. Do you know how to take care of this? I read something about a damper door or some such thing.
JB Marker hey, I wouldn’t immediately suspect a damper door issue. This can cause issues with temp in the fridge side, but not usually the freezer side. I’d start by checking the easy things first. Make sure the condenser is not blocked with dust, make sure food is not blocking any air vents, make sure the evaporator fan is running. After this all checks out, I’d suspect a freezer temperature sensor. If you haven’t seen this video, This will show you how it’s done. ruclips.net/video/CG-2FnQ43Hs/видео.html Let me know if you have any questions! Andy
thanks for the videos. I have a question. In this model ge gsl25jfxblb the problem is freezing on the side of the refrigerator. This model does not use damper. The three thermistors and main control are new. what do you suggest me. Thank you
Hi Alfredo, Sorry to hear about your refrigerator issues. Your fridge does have a damper door. It’s located in the upper rear section of the refrigerator. The part number is: WR60X10215 Here is a schematic for your fridge if it’s helpful: www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/gsl25jfxllb/0432/0165000.html This damper has a temperature sensor with it and would be the sensor that controls when the damper activates. I’d check the operation of the damper door by leaving either the fridge or freezer door open for 3 minutes. This activates the damper door and both fans. Also, when you replace a control board, There are certain models that require a slight modification to the wiring harness. If you can send me the first 5 letters and numbers of your serial number for your fridge I will check on that for you. Thanks
@@GraceAppliance Thanks for your quick answer. I am a technician, and it is the third refrigerator that I see without damper, and I am confused, in the schematic and parts list there is a damper, but not in the unit. months ago that unit worked well for years. I suppose the temperature on that side is controlled by the evaporator motor on and off or with revolution. I'm thinking of installing a damper and see if it controls, or install my user interface test control and with and without damper, lower the temperature and check if it cuts the compressor, or lower the rpm, or close the damper. maybe the temperature in front of control is not sending that information to the main control, and even if a high temperature is selected it never sends that information. that's why I want to try with my test interface. I like to solve technical mysteries, there is only one option, Repair that. I wait for your comments. Thank you
Alfredo de antuñano hey, it HAS to be there somewhere. If the fridge has a single evaporator (it does) it circulates the air via a single evaporator fan in the freezer. The compressor runs to keep the freezer section at the proper temperature, and the fridge section robs it’s cold air from there. The Only way the fridge side has to regulate the refrigerator temperature is via that damper motor. The damper door will be behind a cover which also houses the lightbulb based on what I’m seeing in the schematic. There are some designs, like GE Profile, which have the damper door located closer to the bottom of the refrigerator section and you must remove the lower drawer and cover panel to see it. Yours may be similar. I’ll be curious to hear what you find, but I’m confident you will find it if you keep removing panels on the inside left wall. Remove drawers, etc.
@@GraceAppliance It's a simple model, but I'm already hesitating, I'll look for it this week. and I will keep you informed. this is weird for me too, the damper's electrical connection is in the same place as all, and the thermistors in that connector. thank you.
Hi just discovered your video. My fridge PFSS6PKXASS. I need to do this. Maybe though with a better filter. I replaced Water Filter Head Unit in 2020. Everything seemed to be fine. Then just recently shuddering sound started again and water dispense flows fine then stops. I even used makeshift gaskets to help with depressing the valve the filter pushes in. Anyway, thought it was water valve. Replaced it. No change. Using OEM filter. Now I think Filter Head Unit needs to be replaced again with faulty valve. With taxes and shipping it is now $200 for my fridge. Was $166 in 2020. Fridge is 10yrs old now and running perfectly except for water dispenser. Ice maker is fine. I appreciate your video. At least I’ve got an option to bypass…
This one turned out to be junk and did not last long at all. I've recently bought a cheap 3 pack of mwf filters on Amazon and am impressed so far. I'll have to report back with how long they last.
Arjun Singh I understand the question better now, in my case the filter housing was damaged so I ended up deleting the filter housing and filter. So, it would not make a difference if the filter was there or not. However, if you were to install one of these that plug on to the line like this, you’d need to also have what’s called a filter bypass which screws in to the filter housing in place of the filter.
Great video. My GE Adora side by side DSL26DHWASS has a constant problem with the freezer temperature dropping far below the 8ºF set point and I have to keep adjusting it back up. Do you know how to take care of this? I read something about a damper door or some such thing.
JB Marker hey, I wouldn’t immediately suspect a damper door issue. This can cause issues with temp in the fridge side, but not usually the freezer side.
I’d start by checking the easy things first. Make sure the condenser is not blocked with dust, make sure food is not blocking any air vents, make sure the evaporator fan is running.
After this all checks out, I’d suspect a freezer temperature sensor. If you haven’t seen this video, This will show you how it’s done.
ruclips.net/video/CG-2FnQ43Hs/видео.html
Let me know if you have any questions!
Andy
@@GraceAppliance Thanks Andy, I will check it out.
thanks for the videos. I have a question. In this model ge gsl25jfxblb the problem is freezing on the side of the refrigerator. This model does not use damper. The three thermistors and main control are new. what do you suggest me. Thank you
Hi Alfredo,
Sorry to hear about your refrigerator issues.
Your fridge does have a damper door. It’s located in the upper rear section of the refrigerator. The part number is: WR60X10215
Here is a schematic for your fridge if it’s helpful: www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/gsl25jfxllb/0432/0165000.html
This damper has a temperature sensor with it and would be the sensor that controls when the damper activates.
I’d check the operation of the damper door by leaving either the fridge or freezer door open for 3 minutes. This activates the damper door and both fans.
Also, when you replace a control board, There are certain models that require a slight modification to the wiring harness.
If you can send me the first 5 letters and numbers of your serial number for your fridge I will check on that for you.
Thanks
@@GraceAppliance
Thanks for your quick answer. I am a technician, and it is the third refrigerator that I see without damper, and I am confused, in the schematic and parts list there is a damper, but not in the unit. months ago that unit worked well for years. I suppose the temperature on that side is controlled by the evaporator motor on and off or with revolution. I'm thinking of installing a damper and see if it controls, or install my user interface test control and with and without damper, lower the temperature and check if it cuts the compressor, or lower the rpm, or close the damper.
maybe the temperature in front of control is not sending that information to the main control, and even if a high temperature is selected it never sends that information. that's why I want to try with my test interface.
I like to solve technical mysteries, there is only one option, Repair that. I wait for your comments. Thank you
Alfredo de antuñano hey, it HAS to be there somewhere. If the fridge has a single evaporator (it does) it circulates the air via a single evaporator fan in the freezer. The compressor runs to keep the freezer section at the proper temperature, and the fridge section robs it’s cold air from there. The Only way the fridge side has to regulate the refrigerator temperature is via that damper motor.
The damper door will be behind a cover which also houses the lightbulb based on what I’m seeing in the schematic. There are some designs, like GE Profile, which have the damper door located closer to the bottom of the refrigerator section and you must remove the lower drawer and cover panel to see it. Yours may be similar.
I’ll be curious to hear what you find, but I’m confident you will find it if you keep removing panels on the inside left wall. Remove drawers, etc.
@@GraceAppliance
It's a simple model, but I'm already hesitating, I'll look for it this week. and I will keep you informed. this is weird for me too, the damper's electrical connection is in the same place as all, and the thermistors in that connector. thank you.
Thanks Alfredo, Super curious to hear what you find. Stay in touch and good luck!
Hi just discovered your video. My fridge PFSS6PKXASS. I need to do this. Maybe though with a better filter. I replaced Water Filter Head Unit in 2020. Everything seemed to be fine. Then just recently shuddering sound started again and water dispense flows fine then stops. I even used makeshift gaskets to help with depressing the valve the filter pushes in. Anyway, thought it was water valve. Replaced it. No change. Using OEM filter. Now I think Filter Head Unit needs to be replaced again with faulty valve. With taxes and shipping it is now $200 for my fridge. Was $166 in 2020. Fridge is 10yrs old now and running perfectly except for water dispenser. Ice maker is fine. I appreciate your video. At least I’ve got an option to bypass…
So do you keep your fridge filter plugged in?
This one turned out to be junk and did not last long at all. I've recently bought a cheap 3 pack of mwf filters on Amazon and am impressed so far. I'll have to report back with how long they last.
Arjun Singh I understand the question better now, in my case the filter housing was damaged so I ended up deleting the filter housing and filter. So, it would not make a difference if the filter was there or not. However, if you were to install one of these that plug on to the line like this, you’d need to also have what’s called a filter bypass which screws in to the filter housing in place of the filter.
@@GraceAppliance Some replacement MWF filters sold on amazon can damage the filter housing. I will have to replace it -$60 part. pls the hassle
Thank you!