This was very helpful, I just today did the filter change and primed the system with this method. It worked well to use 2 female spade-type connectors 7/64" wide, as used in auto stereo systems. They are insulated and crimp on to the jumper wires. Just be sure to observe polarity at the auxiliary pump near the filter. One long wire to the rear pump is enough, as there already is a ground there, and the positive (blue/red) wire can be tapped at the top of the pump cover under the seat. No need to remove the cover, and I left a pigtail hanging out of the edge of the seat. No need to remove the seat next time, makes it more conducive to changing the fuel filter as often as I really should! Thanks!
Is this the procedure after you ran out of diesel? I don't understand how the air gets out of the fuel lines without you opening it manually at the cylinder injection points. I also have no idea how the wiring circuit works from the battery to the pumps.
Hello, i would like to do this with my Golf 2012 but, the engine area is not as you describe in video .. and I cannot locate a connection in the engine area .. please advise
What a pain in the bum that manufacturers have made an easy job into an avoid job if you don't have the correct or suitable computer. I've had my fingers burnt for a second time and I have to try it this way this time round this time ...... I'll let you know how I get on.thanks for the info
Hi there, I am just about to replace aux pump and filter at the same time. When I purge the air out of the line, where actually the air goes to? Is it safe to just prime it and start the engine?
Hi Scott, not sure where the air goes but hypothesize it exits the system through one of the four fuel lines visible on top of the fuel filter housing canister (return line).
Regarding the question whether its "safe to just prime it and start the engine", that question can be interpreted multiple ways so "No" would be the safe answer. Following this procedure precisely has its own risks and leaving any electrical connections exposed after the pumps stop running significantly increases the chance of some type of electrical short, which is my biggest fear. Anyone know if the air stays out once the system is primed?
Doing it at the relay panel is much easier. I'm not sure about the 2012 that's on this video, but I jumpered the fuel pump relays on my 2009 Jetta to purge the system, 2 relays in the dash relay center.
I used a "quick splice", which are the two red plastic Y connectors that the wires are going into. There are two of them in the video but only the one on the right side (blue wire) is necessary because the left side (brown wire) is grounded. I bought them at an auto parts store for a few dollars.
There is a 10000 times easyer way!!! Just take off the air filter housing and blow brake cleaner in the tube going to engine while somone else is trying to start the car. Keep blowing brake cleaner until the engine keeps running whithout it trying to fall still. The air will go away whitin 2 minutes. And you can also avoid air in system by filling the fuel filter completly with fuel before starting that will prevend air getting in system
This was very helpful, I just today did the filter change and primed the system with this method. It worked well to use 2 female spade-type connectors 7/64" wide, as used in auto stereo systems. They are insulated and crimp on to the jumper wires. Just be sure to observe polarity at the auxiliary pump near the filter. One long wire to the rear pump is enough, as there already is a ground there, and the positive (blue/red) wire can be tapped at the top of the pump cover under the seat. No need to remove the cover, and I left a pigtail hanging out of the edge of the seat. No need to remove the seat next time, makes it more conducive to changing the fuel filter as often as I really should! Thanks!
Thank You!! This was very helpful & exactly what I needed to know for my (new-to-me) 2011 TDI.
Is it possible to just jump one of the fuel pump?
Is this the procedure after you ran out of diesel? I don't understand how the air gets out of the fuel lines without you opening it manually at the cylinder injection points. I also have no idea how the wiring circuit works from the battery to the pumps.
Works like a charm! Thanks!
Hello, i would like to do this with my Golf 2012 but, the engine area is not as you describe in video .. and I cannot locate a connection in the engine area .. please advise
What a pain in the bum that manufacturers have made an easy job into an avoid job if you don't have the correct or suitable computer. I've had my fingers burnt for a second time and I have to try it this way this time round this time ...... I'll let you know how I get on.thanks for the info
Hi there,
I am just about to replace aux pump and filter at the same time. When I purge the air out of the line, where actually the air goes to? Is it safe to just prime it and start the engine?
Hi Scott, not sure where the air goes but hypothesize it exits the system through one of the four fuel lines visible on top of the fuel filter housing canister (return line).
Regarding the question whether its "safe to just prime it and start the engine", that question can be interpreted multiple ways so "No" would be the safe answer. Following this procedure precisely has its own risks and leaving any electrical connections exposed after the pumps stop running significantly increases the chance of some type of electrical short, which is my biggest fear. Anyone know if the air stays out once the system is primed?
How long should we let the pumps run. I am going to try this today on my mk6 jetta.
Would it be possible to remove relays for pumps and bridge relay sockets in order to prime fuel filter?
Doing it at the relay panel is much easier. I'm not sure about the 2012 that's on this video, but I jumpered the fuel pump relays on my 2009 Jetta to purge the system, 2 relays in the dash relay center.
@@abpsd73, I tried it on my Golf mk6 TDI 2011 and it worked. Had to remove plastic panels, though. Cheaper than buying any VCDS.
Thanks! What gauge wire are you using?
What kind of wire will work?
i dont understand how you did you connect the white wire into the main fuel pump 3:20
thanks
I used a "quick splice", which are the two red plastic Y connectors that the wires are going into. There are two of them in the video but only the one on the right side (blue wire) is necessary because the left side (brown wire) is grounded. I bought them at an auto parts store for a few dollars.
Ha you sound like steveo from jackass 🤙
There is a 10000 times easyer way!!! Just take off the air filter housing and blow brake cleaner in the tube going to engine while somone else is trying to start the car. Keep blowing brake cleaner until the engine keeps running whithout it trying to fall still. The air will go away whitin 2 minutes. And you can also avoid air in system by filling the fuel filter completly with fuel before starting that will prevend air getting in system
That sounds much easier, can you do that after a high-pressure fuel rail is replaced ..
@@philip.aocallaghan4602 im not sure about that sorry
Wouldn’t a oil based spray be better? WD40
Never do that. The Hpfp will run without diesel and will not lubricate.