Thanks for watching! What works for you and what in the video did you find helpful? And here's the formula to figure how much UTC for your project, and how much water to add for the UTC Gloss and Natural: To determine how much UTC (Gloss or Natural) for your project: Total square feet of project X .275 - Example 40 sf X .275 = 11 oz of UTC (Gloss or Natural), Round up to 12 oz for easy math at 2:1 mixing ratio. 12 oz UTC (Gloss or Natural) at 2:1 = 8 oz Part A, 4 oz Part B. To determine how much water to add once UTC is fully mixed: UTC Natural X .16 - Example: 12 oz of UTC Natural X .16 = 1.92 oz water (round up to 2 oz water) UTC Gloss X .50 - Example: 12 oz of UTC Gloss X .50 = 6 oz water
You're so welcome, Bibbi and so glad you find the videos helpful! Is there anything in particular you would like to see in my videos? If so, please let me know. Thank you!
Hi Keith! I'm happy to see that each time you put out a new video the quality is getting better and better. I'm impressed with the amount of tools, colors and products you have in your studio. In regards to sanding, I got myself a rectangular sander and I put on it a mesh "sanding paper" that is usually intended for drywalls. But because it's a mesh, the dust extractor on the sander is doing wonders, and because its resin and not drywall it works fast and lasts for a long time. As a last tip if I may, try to hit all the edges with the resin, even the one facing the wall. I know it's not visible, but it will make for a more uniform joint with the wall, minimizing the chance for water seepage and also, if the customer sees the piece before install it will give a more neat and professional look.
Hi Geo, and thanks for the kind words, including my video editing as it is certainly not my forte but I'm working on it. You make some great points and I really appreciate the tips and feedback! For me, when sanding to prep for the flood coat as well as UTC, I seldom use a power sander (orbital or otherwise) as I don't want to create dust in my studio (even with a dust extractor), and my objective with sanding is simply to create the mechanical bond. Even sanding by hand, the mesh discs still load up and that's primarily due to sanding at the 24 hour mark when the resin is still fairly soft. I know if I waited 48-72 hours or more, there would be less load on the paper, but for production reasons I'm usually sanding after 24 hours to apply the UTC. Regarding the back edges, I don't always address those edges with the color coat (especially if I'm providing backsplashes), but always cover them with the flood coat to seal them. As I've written about "perceived value" in the RK3 Designs Insiders group, your point is spot-on as far as if the customer sees it and how that could diminish the "value". When considering the customer and that issue, I will change my practice to always finish and/or get color on the back edge, whether the customer will have the opportunity to see it or not. So thank you for bringing that up and again, it's a great point!
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experience. BTW how did it turn out with the bad batch of the product? I'm very interested in all of the ins and outs of working with epoxy I have never used it yet but I hope to asap. Until then I'm "stalking" you, SCC, and RK3, to name a few to learn as much as possible. Thanks again from West Texas. God bless and guide you.
Thank you for the kind words, Belinda! The bad batch of UTC Gloss seems to be a one-time event, which I received in April, 2022. I ended up sanding that down, applying good product and it turned out great. Thanks again!!!
Do you have a video or suggestions on what to do if you did burn your edges with a green scotch pad? Color and clear coat has been done and its a exotic pour.
Hi Lauren, assuming it's just a small area, and/or just along the edge, and you're going to apply a top coat (such as UTC), personally I would faux paint (touch-up) those areas with like colors, then seal those paints with a UV clear spray paint, and apply the top coat. That being said, with the amount of product used with a dirty pour, along with a flood coat, I would think it would take quite a bit to burn through the edges with a Scotch Brite pad. The red one I use is equivelent to 320-400 grit, the green is equivelent to 600 grit. Do you feel you may have just gotten too aggressive with it?
@@kcdcdesigns awesome sounds good. Yes I do believe it was a little too aggressive lol at least it is our countertops. Our tape also fell off earlier than we were expecting to pull it so it might have been a little thinner due to that as well
@@ATimelessFamilyJourney Remember when sanding, you're only etching the surface to create a mechanical bond, something for the next layer to "bite" into, so it doesn't take much.
@@kcdcdesigns Wow that was a prompt reply, took me by surprise due to the time difference between our country's, so thank you so much, I've been cramming video's the last couple of days trying to understand the issues we are having with the UTC and have to say that you are by far the best with your detail description and communication, so keep up the great work--from New Zealand thank you👍
Great question, here's the formula: To determine how much UTC (Gloss or Natural) for your project: Total square feet of project X .275 - Example 40 sf X .275 = 11 oz of UTC (Gloss or Natural), Round up to 12 oz for easy math at 2:1 mixing ratio. 12 oz UTC (Gloss or Natural) at 2:1 = 8 oz Part A, 4 oz Part B. To determine how much water to add once UTC is fully mixed: UTC Natural X .16 - Example: 12 oz of UTC Natural X .16 = 1.92 oz water (round up to 2 oz water) UTC Gloss X .50 - Example: 12 oz of UTC Gloss X .50 = 6 oz water Thank you for the question and let me know if I can help further! Keith
Unfortunately UTC cannot be touched up, successfully. Personally, I would sand smooth and reapply. As a tip, with UTC being the final touch on our hard work getting to that point, I really focus on complete coverage and proper application. I regard it the same as undermixing epoxy; If I don't take my time to do it correctly, it's a re-do and something I dread. I know that doesn't help your situation, but I've learned I don't need to rush the UTC as much as I thought I did, which helps prevent those costly errors. Teaching someone to do your dry rolling (if you haven't already) will help tremendously.
@@kcdcdesigns Thank you. That was my demise trying to do 50 square feet myself. I sectioned it off in 4 feet sections In terms of doing a wet roll, then a dry roll, then 4 more feet wet roll dry roll. E t c.. It's good to hear that there's more time than you thought. Because that was why I miss some stuff. I was in such a hurry to get this laid out and dry rolled that I literally didn't notice anything until the next day. However, that rhonda actually had a video on using ten thousand Grit sandpaper to hopefully fix my situation, which was just roller marks that showed through. Nothing was exactly missed. So my first move is to wet sand with 10000 grit. Hopefully that will alleviate my situation, but I agree. I'm going to go ahead and send off and reapply if that doesn't fix it. Thank you sir
@@JLafix Be aware that Rhonda will use the 10k grit on the UTC Natural (matte) to smooth out any debris. Wet sanding the UTC Gloss will change the sheen. This is because you're only wet sanding the high points (of the orange peel) and it dulls them, per se. What made me realize I didn't have to rush, was doing a "dry run". That is, I set my stopwatch on my phone and rehearsed wet rolling and dry rolling, and discovered I could cover the entire area in 12 minutes (as an example). If you're big top is 50 sf, that's a challenge for one person. Be sure to leave your stopping point wet so it doesn't start to dry, then blend into it as you continue. And again, don't overdo it, but be sure you're getting enough product on the surface so your dry roller can pick that little but up. This is what can prevent the roller marks. Please keep me posted! Keith@KCDCDesigns.com
@@kcdcdesigns So first up, thanks for your quality information. So I had a debate between my wife and I . In Terms of what sheen, whether it's gonna be Mat. Or gloss and she liked the gloss flood coat. The flood coat rather and I was like that's a little much. So I did decide on the gloss ultimate top coat, but now that you say if it is sanded with 10000 grit, it's gonna dull it a moment. I'm totally in. Thanks for your quality, videos. And your perfect information. I'm not new to building things and more importantly. Fabricating things from nothing so when I came across this World of resin. I was so excited on so many things in my mind that I can do with this. So again, thank you for your input and your time.
@@JLafix You're very welcome! What is your design and colors? If the wife likes the high gloss of the flood coat, just know that's how all countertops were finished prior to UTC coming out. I still have many customers without UTC. My folks' countertop doesn't have UTC and it's over 4 years old. So at any time, I can still apply UTC. Just FYI. Thankfully UTC came out so I don't have to store countertops for 30 days anymore! :)
Ok, so I failed on my application. Now what? Can you do a small piece fail and how you would fix the Lap lines or prep to reapply…my dry roller lifted product in one spot and left shiny spotty areas in 2 places. Another place it looks muddier and uneven. Help
Oh no, sorry! Unfortunately, you will need to thoroughly sand (preferably after 48 hours) and re-apply. The shiny spots would be from missing spots with the wet roller. To eliminate that, I press down with the wet roller and roll in different directions to be sure there is adequate and even coverage across the surface, and most importantly, being sure you're adding enough product to begin with. Not applying enough product is typically why roller marks appear once dry. When you're adding enough product with your wet roller, and back-rolling one last time very lightly (to remove any heavy lap lines) prior to dry rolling, your dry roller is picking up very little product, yet giving it that last smooth, even finish. As long as your wet roller is picking up just a little bit of product, it's doing its job. Just be sure if you're doing a larger surface, to switch to a new dry roller if it becomes saturated and/or begins to drag (due to becoming saturated).
@@kcdcdesignsThank you for replying!! No sir, I haven't used either of their top coats yet. I just painted my bar tops using black paint and stencils for some lettering graphics and then I used stone coat clear epoxy. Looks great, but I want to protect it more. I wish they sold sample sized portions but they don't, so I'm not sure if I want gloss or natural. I saw your red Cornhole boards so I'm leaning towards gloss... But I'm not sure I want the texture. I'm afraid natural might look weird over the paint.
@@LS67NOVA 90% of my customers choose the Natural over the Gloss, due to glare, smudges, fingerprints, etc. Best thing I could suggest is to try each on a sample board (finished like your bar top) to see which one you like better. I know there's a cost involved in doing that, but that way you know what your finish would look like, and which one you like better. You could also see if there's an epoxy artisan in your area that might be able to help.
@@kcdcdesigns I like the concept of the natural and I think it looks great on marble looking epoxy. But I'm worried about putting it over my paint scheme because I'm thinking it might make it look like you're looking through a fogged glass.... Not sure if that makes sense. The look of Matte/satin finished paint is great, but I'm not sure if I would look the same if you put a satin finish over paint. And I'm afraid you are right, I might just have to spend the money and buy a quart of each. That's the only way I'm going to be able to test them and find out.
@@kcdcdesigns do you have any videos where you used the natural UTC over a paint scheme? Like the Cornhole boards except covered in natural (instead of gloss)?
We tried it before we saw your video and it orange pilled on us. We are sanding it down. Do we need to do anything before we apply the final coat of ultimate topcoat again?
@@bbren1837 Using the RK3 formula, take your total oz of UTC Natural and multiply that by 0.16 to determine how much water to add. I hope my video is helpful and please feel free to reach out if I can be of help!
Hey Paul, I use distilled water in the atomizer as well as for mixing with the UTC. Regarding the atomizer, it's really hit or miss whether I use it, and honestly I don't know that it makes that much difference. I'd like to edit that part out of the video, in fears someone may not use the correct sprayer, or use it incorrectly and end up with larger drops, or too much water on the surface causing unneccessary issues.
Thanks for watching!
What works for you and what in the video did you find helpful?
And here's the formula to figure how much UTC for your project, and how much water to add for the UTC Gloss and Natural:
To determine how much UTC (Gloss or Natural) for your project:
Total square feet of project X .275 - Example 40 sf X .275 = 11 oz of UTC (Gloss or Natural), Round up to 12 oz for easy math at 2:1 mixing ratio. 12 oz UTC (Gloss or Natural) at 2:1 = 8 oz Part A, 4 oz Part B.
To determine how much water to add once UTC is fully mixed:
UTC Natural X .16 - Example: 12 oz of UTC Natural X .16 = 1.92 oz water (round up to 2 oz water)
UTC Gloss X .50 - Example: 12 oz of UTC Gloss X .50 = 6 oz water
Another great video with great tips. Thank you so much🎄🎄🎄🎄
You're so welcome, Bibbi and so glad you find the videos helpful!
Is there anything in particular you would like to see in my videos? If so, please let me know.
Thank you!
Awesome demo buddy!!!
Thank you so much, my friend!
Hi Keith! I'm happy to see that each time you put out a new video the quality is getting better and better. I'm impressed with the amount of tools, colors and products you have in your studio.
In regards to sanding, I got myself a rectangular sander and I put on it a mesh "sanding paper" that is usually intended for drywalls. But because it's a mesh, the dust extractor on the sander is doing wonders, and because its resin and not drywall it works fast and lasts for a long time.
As a last tip if I may, try to hit all the edges with the resin, even the one facing the wall. I know it's not visible, but it will make for a more uniform joint with the wall, minimizing the chance for water seepage and also, if the customer sees the piece before install it will give a more neat and professional look.
Hi Geo, and thanks for the kind words, including my video editing as it is certainly not my forte but I'm working on it.
You make some great points and I really appreciate the tips and feedback! For me, when sanding to prep for the flood coat as well as UTC, I seldom use a power sander (orbital or otherwise) as I don't want to create dust in my studio (even with a dust extractor), and my objective with sanding is simply to create the mechanical bond. Even sanding by hand, the mesh discs still load up and that's primarily due to sanding at the 24 hour mark when the resin is still fairly soft. I know if I waited 48-72 hours or more, there would be less load on the paper, but for production reasons I'm usually sanding after 24 hours to apply the UTC.
Regarding the back edges, I don't always address those edges with the color coat (especially if I'm providing backsplashes), but always cover them with the flood coat to seal them. As I've written about "perceived value" in the RK3 Designs Insiders group, your point is spot-on as far as if the customer sees it and how that could diminish the "value". When considering the customer and that issue, I will change my practice to always finish and/or get color on the back edge, whether the customer will have the opportunity to see it or not. So thank you for bringing that up and again, it's a great point!
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experience. BTW how did it turn out with the bad batch of the product? I'm very interested in all of the ins and outs of working with epoxy I have never used it yet but I hope to asap. Until then I'm "stalking" you, SCC, and RK3, to name a few to learn as much as possible. Thanks again from West Texas. God bless and guide you.
Thank you for the kind words, Belinda! The bad batch of UTC Gloss seems to be a one-time event, which I received in April, 2022. I ended up sanding that down, applying good product and it turned out great. Thanks again!!!
Do you have a video or suggestions on what to do if you did burn your edges with a green scotch pad? Color and clear coat has been done and its a exotic pour.
Hi Lauren, assuming it's just a small area, and/or just along the edge, and you're going to apply a top coat (such as UTC), personally I would faux paint (touch-up) those areas with like colors, then seal those paints with a UV clear spray paint, and apply the top coat. That being said, with the amount of product used with a dirty pour, along with a flood coat, I would think it would take quite a bit to burn through the edges with a Scotch Brite pad. The red one I use is equivelent to 320-400 grit, the green is equivelent to 600 grit. Do you feel you may have just gotten too aggressive with it?
@@kcdcdesigns awesome sounds good. Yes I do believe it was a little too aggressive lol at least it is our countertops. Our tape also fell off earlier than we were expecting to pull it so it might have been a little thinner due to that as well
@@ATimelessFamilyJourney Remember when sanding, you're only etching the surface to create a mechanical bond, something for the next layer to "bite" into, so it doesn't take much.
Hi, could you please explain what the product was in the Atomizer spray, was it isopropyl alcohol?
Hi, it's distilled water, but I'm not using that method anymore as I found it wasn't adding enough benefit.
@@kcdcdesigns Wow that was a prompt reply, took me by surprise due to the time difference between our country's, so thank you so much, I've been cramming video's the last couple of days trying to understand the issues we are having with the UTC and have to say that you are by far the best with your detail description and communication, so keep up the great work--from New Zealand thank you👍
@terrykelk12 you're very welcome, and thanks for the kind words!
How do you figure out the UTC to water ratio? couldn't find that on your website.
Great question, here's the formula:
To determine how much UTC (Gloss or Natural) for your project:
Total square feet of project X .275 - Example 40 sf X .275 = 11 oz of UTC (Gloss or Natural), Round up to 12 oz for easy math at 2:1 mixing ratio. 12 oz UTC (Gloss or Natural) at 2:1 = 8 oz Part A, 4 oz Part B.
To determine how much water to add once UTC is fully mixed:
UTC Natural X .16 - Example: 12 oz of UTC Natural X .16 = 1.92 oz water (round up to 2 oz water)
UTC Gloss X .50 - Example: 12 oz of UTC Gloss X .50 = 6 oz water
Thank you for the question and let me know if I can help further!
Keith
What would you do if you missed a spot with the Gloss ultimate top coat and didn't realize till next day?
Unfortunately UTC cannot be touched up, successfully. Personally, I would sand smooth and reapply. As a tip, with UTC being the final touch on our hard work getting to that point, I really focus on complete coverage and proper application. I regard it the same as undermixing epoxy; If I don't take my time to do it correctly, it's a re-do and something I dread. I know that doesn't help your situation, but I've learned I don't need to rush the UTC as much as I thought I did, which helps prevent those costly errors.
Teaching someone to do your dry rolling (if you haven't already) will help tremendously.
@@kcdcdesigns Thank you. That was my demise trying to do 50 square feet myself. I sectioned it off in 4 feet sections In terms of doing a wet roll, then a dry roll, then 4 more feet wet roll dry roll. E t c.. It's good to hear that there's more time than you thought. Because that was why I miss some stuff. I was in such a hurry to get this laid out and dry rolled that I literally didn't notice anything until the next day. However, that rhonda actually had a video on using ten thousand Grit sandpaper to hopefully fix my situation, which was just roller marks that showed through. Nothing was exactly missed. So my first move is to wet sand with 10000 grit. Hopefully that will alleviate my situation, but I agree. I'm going to go ahead and send off and reapply if that doesn't fix it. Thank you sir
@@JLafix Be aware that Rhonda will use the 10k grit on the UTC Natural (matte) to smooth out any debris. Wet sanding the UTC Gloss will change the sheen. This is because you're only wet sanding the high points (of the orange peel) and it dulls them, per se.
What made me realize I didn't have to rush, was doing a "dry run". That is, I set my stopwatch on my phone and rehearsed wet rolling and dry rolling, and discovered I could cover the entire area in 12 minutes (as an example).
If you're big top is 50 sf, that's a challenge for one person. Be sure to leave your stopping point wet so it doesn't start to dry, then blend into it as you continue.
And again, don't overdo it, but be sure you're getting enough product on the surface so your dry roller can pick that little but up. This is what can prevent the roller marks.
Please keep me posted!
Keith@KCDCDesigns.com
@@kcdcdesigns So first up, thanks for your quality information. So I had a debate between my wife and I . In Terms of what sheen, whether it's gonna be Mat. Or gloss and she liked the gloss flood coat. The flood coat rather and I was like that's a little much. So I did decide on the gloss ultimate top coat, but now that you say if it is sanded with 10000 grit, it's gonna dull it a moment. I'm totally in. Thanks for your quality, videos. And your perfect information. I'm not new to building things and more importantly. Fabricating things from nothing so when I came across this World of resin. I was so excited on so many things in my mind that I can do with this. So again, thank you for your input and your time.
@@JLafix You're very welcome!
What is your design and colors? If the wife likes the high gloss of the flood coat, just know that's how all countertops were finished prior to UTC coming out. I still have many customers without UTC.
My folks' countertop doesn't have UTC and it's over 4 years old. So at any time, I can still apply UTC. Just FYI.
Thankfully UTC came out so I don't have to store countertops for 30 days anymore! :)
Ok, so I failed on my application. Now what? Can you do a small piece fail and how you would fix the Lap lines or prep to reapply…my dry roller lifted product in one spot and left shiny spotty areas in 2 places. Another place it looks muddier and uneven. Help
Oh no, sorry! Unfortunately, you will need to thoroughly sand (preferably after 48 hours) and re-apply.
The shiny spots would be from missing spots with the wet roller. To eliminate that, I press down with the wet roller and roll in different directions to be sure there is adequate and even coverage across the surface, and most importantly, being sure you're adding enough product to begin with. Not applying enough product is typically why roller marks appear once dry. When you're adding enough product with your wet roller, and back-rolling one last time very lightly (to remove any heavy lap lines) prior to dry rolling, your dry roller is picking up very little product, yet giving it that last smooth, even finish. As long as your wet roller is picking up just a little bit of product, it's doing its job. Just be sure if you're doing a larger surface, to switch to a new dry roller if it becomes saturated and/or begins to drag (due to becoming saturated).
How are you not getting any texture look after doing UTC? I thought texture was part of what it is known for?
Only the UTC Gloss leaves an unavoidable orange peel appearance. The UTC Natural (matte) leaves none.
Are you getting texture with the UTC Natural?
@@kcdcdesignsThank you for replying!! No sir, I haven't used either of their top coats yet. I just painted my bar tops using black paint and stencils for some lettering graphics and then I used stone coat clear epoxy. Looks great, but I want to protect it more. I wish they sold sample sized portions but they don't, so I'm not sure if I want gloss or natural. I saw your red Cornhole boards so I'm leaning towards gloss... But I'm not sure I want the texture. I'm afraid natural might look weird over the paint.
@@LS67NOVA 90% of my customers choose the Natural over the Gloss, due to glare, smudges, fingerprints, etc. Best thing I could suggest is to try each on a sample board (finished like your bar top) to see which one you like better. I know there's a cost involved in doing that, but that way you know what your finish would look like, and which one you like better. You could also see if there's an epoxy artisan in your area that might be able to help.
@@kcdcdesigns I like the concept of the natural and I think it looks great on marble looking epoxy. But I'm worried about putting it over my paint scheme because I'm thinking it might make it look like you're looking through a fogged glass.... Not sure if that makes sense. The look of Matte/satin finished paint is great, but I'm not sure if I would look the same if you put a satin finish over paint. And I'm afraid you are right, I might just have to spend the money and buy a quart of each. That's the only way I'm going to be able to test them and find out.
@@kcdcdesigns do you have any videos where you used the natural UTC over a paint scheme? Like the Cornhole boards except covered in natural (instead of gloss)?
We tried it before we saw your video and it orange pilled on us. We are sanding it down. Do we need to do anything before we apply the final coat of ultimate topcoat again?
Just be sure you're using the RK3 Designs mixing formula. Are you applying Natural (matte) or Gloss?
@@kcdcdesigns Matte finish.
@@bbren1837 Using the RK3 formula, take your total oz of UTC Natural and multiply that by 0.16 to determine how much water to add. I hope my video is helpful and please feel free to reach out if I can be of help!
@@kcdcdesigns Thank you so much for the video and you personal answers to our questions!
@@bbren1837 you're so welcome! I always want to be available to help, if I can!
what do you have in the atomizer?
Hey Paul, I use distilled water in the atomizer as well as for mixing with the UTC.
Regarding the atomizer, it's really hit or miss whether I use it, and honestly I don't know that it makes that much difference. I'd like to edit that part out of the video, in fears someone may not use the correct sprayer, or use it incorrectly and end up with larger drops, or too much water on the surface causing unneccessary issues.