Flooring is a bear.. any flooring. Now if I could work on a raised floor like that one at knee height... 🤣🤣 Looking forward to your videos on finishing this project. Going to be absolutely beautiful.
So I've used that product a lot back in the day but our codes allowed for seems up to 4 feet. The idea of staggering every single board takes a tedious process and makes it worse (although I agree is far better result). This product was used a lot as the sub-floor for single story "Ramblers" in Washington state during the 90's and 00's (probably longer but I started doing other work after that, I've been out of production building for a long time). A key component was the sledge hammer and sacrificial post but also we had a deck puller (looks like a giant wall puller) which was a large peavy of sorts that one could squeeze about 4' worth of board tight at the same time with a nice amount of leverage. That process required 2 people minimum still and required 3 sinkers over every beam and needed to be glued. They would place carpet pad right on the done surface but used underlayment to even the surface for any tile of leno applications. I always hated using this decking, I would rather deal with soaked 2x12 joisting and 3/4 t&g sheets on a 2 story then mess with that stuff on the ground floor, LOL. My hats off to you and yours has turned out far better than ours ever did, I'll bet it will last a lot longer too. Happy new year! :)
Nice tip. At 4:08 you could've used another fastener on the other end of the "lever" to keep it in place while securing the actual board. The final solution is pretty genius and simple though. Thanks for sharing, I have finished t&g to fit on top of plywood underflooring and small bows in the boards were driving me nuts.
In the northwest region, we called that car decking. I hope you left some space so you can crawl under the floor and insulate it. Doesn't look like it is going to be fun crawling under all those floor joists installing insulation. Look good and I bet after it is sanded it will look amazing.
After you have tensioned your board, instead of holding it with your knee, drive a screw in to the joist. The other clamp could be used, but I would modify it so that the pieces of pipe would clamp the top and bottom of the joist. I found that it worked best for me, to tongue and groove the ends of the boards as well. My floor went easier, because I cut my maple to 4 (finished to 3 1/2) inch wide. I tightened the joints, by screwing down blocks and using wedges to apply the pressure to hold the joint tight..
Flooring is a bear.. any flooring. Now if I could work on a raised floor like that one at knee height... 🤣🤣
Looking forward to your videos on finishing this project. Going to be absolutely beautiful.
Good job but tongue and groove is time consumed but gets the job nice good job like the old day's god bless 🙏try to make more video's 👍
Good to see you again. The variety of your content is great. That is a beautiful floor. Nice work.
Merry Christmas. Always look forward to your videos. Hope your family is doing well. Have a blessed new year!
So I've used that product a lot back in the day but our codes allowed for seems up to 4 feet. The idea of staggering every single board takes a tedious process and makes it worse (although I agree is far better result). This product was used a lot as the sub-floor for single story "Ramblers" in Washington state during the 90's and 00's (probably longer but I started doing other work after that, I've been out of production building for a long time). A key component was the sledge hammer and sacrificial post but also we had a deck puller (looks like a giant wall puller) which was a large peavy of sorts that one could squeeze about 4' worth of board tight at the same time with a nice amount of leverage. That process required 2 people minimum still and required 3 sinkers over every beam and needed to be glued. They would place carpet pad right on the done surface but used underlayment to even the surface for any tile of leno applications. I always hated using this decking, I would rather deal with soaked 2x12 joisting and 3/4 t&g sheets on a 2 story then mess with that stuff on the ground floor, LOL. My hats off to you and yours has turned out far better than ours ever did, I'll bet it will last a lot longer too. Happy new year! :)
Excellent. Thank You Jesus, Wisdom and Knowledge
The lowly wedge can split granite in two, among other things. Happy New Year!!
We haven't seen you in a bit. Welcome back. And yes try to make more videos.
Great video Ethan! Loved the office scenes too funny stuff
👍👍👍 May the new year bring you blessings and happiness 🙏
Nice tip. At 4:08 you could've used another fastener on the other end of the "lever" to keep it in place while securing the actual board.
The final solution is pretty genius and simple though.
Thanks for sharing, I have finished t&g to fit on top of plywood underflooring and small bows in the boards were driving me nuts.
Great idea, never would have thought of that. Thank you!
Very good information thanks
This was informative, thank you!
Great job.
Pure Genius, thanks for the tip.
Great Tip!!!
Take care and God bless my friend! Merry Christmas!
That works great been doing that quite a while myself i usually got 3or4 down the run of floor easier to keep up with
Nice tip
In the northwest region, we called that car decking. I hope you left some space so you can crawl under the floor and insulate it. Doesn't look like it is going to be fun crawling under all those floor joists installing insulation. Look good and I bet after it is sanded it will look amazing.
Very good, and you didn't have to steam/wet the boards.
I thought it was just me that thought it was a tough job. i’ve never seen it that thick before.(twss)
After you have tensioned your board, instead of holding it with your knee, drive a screw in to the joist. The other clamp could be used, but I would modify it so that the pieces of pipe would clamp the top and bottom of the joist. I found that it worked best for me, to tongue and groove the ends of the boards as well. My floor went easier, because I cut my maple to 4 (finished to 3 1/2) inch wide. I tightened the joints, by screwing down blocks and using wedges to apply the pressure to hold the joint tight..
Fine job working for God 🏛️
MM77 Approved 👍🏻👍🏻
Stick a screw in the other end of that 2x4 so you don't have to keep your knee on it.
How did you finish the last board that sits against the wall??
No Glue?
The reason your bow wrench isn’t working is because you have the 2 things reversed, the “U” shaped part goes on the end.
I did try both ways. It didn’t work for a 2x6 it was too thick. I think it would on 5/4 but the pegs are too short.