Blaine you have a way of making everything sound like a pun, 12:48 now he's got his end in and lovely curve 😂🤣. Keep up the quality videos buddy and get some more made on the other channel! 👍
Assuming that's high polymer then like johnstones cause that works the same mate when wet up. When using thincoat we always sit mesh alot nearer the surface but each to there own mate. Nice finish eitherway 👍👍
They were horrible bricks to be fair and the side of the house was heavily exposed to the elements which kept damaging the face work. It was needed to be fair
@@PlasteringForBeginnersas in spalling? I think that’s the term. My old 30s house had that style of brick, it’s not great to look at even when they are not falling apart, but render (any type) has its own problems, not least is it’ll need painting every few years. Anyway cheers for documenting your trade, it’s interesting to see!
FYI KZP 65 is sand and cement, but it also has high lime content and chalk. The Germans don’t affiliate lime as “traditional”, it is a mineral to be used, they use it well. Baumit RK 39 is quite abit similar albeit slower setting. The dragging is because there are micro fibres in the mix, it’s why it sets so strong and does not crack
Very glad I discovered your channel! I've not long bought a house and the garage has some broken render, most just the final coat and the scratch coat is still on and seemingly intact. If I am looking to patch this up myself, would I need to add any pre treatment to the old scratch coat before going over the top to patch in? Not sure if that's the process but looking to patch up myself if not too complicated! Was hoping to use Weber OCR I discovered from your other vids!
Is silicone render waterproof? will it allow moisture to escape from the building too? That thing to level the render looks amazing, things have moved on loads from when I did a little plastering as an amateur.
Hi blaine, I noticed in previous videos you have meshed with ocr , have you ever has any issues with render delamination between coats? I was on the phone with webber today and tech department has told me to never use mesh with ocr as the aggregate its to big to pass through
I've got one todo any advice going over cement board using atlas product the customer is supplying materials and seems to to think u can use the same material all the way through ?
I've never used Atlas but that's not the case for Baumit. There's a base coat onto the cement board, primer, then the Silicone Top Coat. I'd look into it pal - don't want you to get into trouble with it👍
hi blain ,if half the wall had pebble dash what would you do to it? i was thinking of having the insulation done and curious if it would need to be removed
I like everything but one thing you are missing what will make your work 10 times better. Cause in gb rain a lot so these walls will be dirt after 1 or 2 years at the bottom and silicone reder Hard to wash special if it is with colour. So my advise you should make a 50 or 30cm from the bottom another silicone render but special for foundation but dark colour so this render last for ever and looks same every year as it was reder yestarday. I did it 10 years ago my house and it is still perfect
@PlasteringForBeginners if the substrate cracks the render will still crack as the expansion is to allow movement through the substrate as there is no expansion through the substrate it wont allow movement
The Substrate was fine (who mentioned cracking??) - it’s a brick built house! The expansion beads needs to be applied to any render spanning over 5/6 metres to allow movement.
Why would the substructure crack that would be a massive problem when the render is applied your covering your back for that work you have done. If the brick work moves it’s structural and putting a bead in the brick won’t stop that lmao 😂
Seems a shame to cover the bricks they look ok. I would like to see a a removal of old render and re rendering with this as often render is covering poor bricks
IMO it looks nice from a distance but horrible up close... it looks cheap like sand stuck in paint has just been painted over. Monocouche scraped looks 10x nicer and softer.
@@PlasteringForBeginners Relax. Most of these people have yet to learn. I've done thousands and thousands and thousands of metres of silicone, (most brands). It is the tops we know, and it lasts. Jobs I did in 2006 are still immaculate. I wouldn't even respond or argue with them..... Time will teach them. (Possibly)
Hey Blaine glad to see you back, cracking job.
Thanks pal!
For someone like myself who has to self learn your videos have helped me a lot. Appreciate the time you put in to show others.
Thank you for watching. I really appreciate it!
That is a cracking job mate..spot on. Looks fantastic.
Thank you pal
Blaine you have a way of making everything sound like a pun, 12:48 now he's got his end in and lovely curve 😂🤣. Keep up the quality videos buddy and get some more made on the other channel! 👍
You guys have done a fantastic job, funny enough i live right next door to this house, really does look pukka 👍
Haha that's so funny! Small world...thanks for putting up with us. All the best mate
Assuming that's high polymer then like johnstones cause that works the same mate when wet up.
When using thincoat we always sit mesh alot nearer the surface but each to there own mate.
Nice finish eitherway 👍👍
i like it but what was wrong with the bricks.
lol customers choice
right!
They were horrible bricks to be fair and the side of the house was heavily exposed to the elements which kept damaging the face work. It was needed to be fair
@@PlasteringForBeginners Thanks for your response and your excellent videos. Really appreciate them.
@@PlasteringForBeginnersas in spalling? I think that’s the term. My old 30s house had that style of brick, it’s not great to look at even when they are not falling apart, but render (any type) has its own problems, not least is it’ll need painting every few years. Anyway cheers for documenting your trade, it’s interesting to see!
Blaine back with a banger!
Ha thank you mate!
FYI KZP 65 is sand and cement, but it also has high lime content and chalk. The Germans don’t affiliate lime as “traditional”, it is a mineral to be used, they use it well. Baumit RK 39 is quite abit similar albeit slower setting.
The dragging is because there are micro fibres in the mix, it’s why it sets so strong and does not crack
Great vid mate. What size beads are you using there?
I agree you normally render to bad brick work or to hide a problem
And that’s why I’ll never buy a house that’s rendered. Once bitten, etc…
that floated basecoat looked insane
Crazy isn’t it
@@PlasteringForBeginnersare you based in the south east area I think I’ve seen you about
Very glad I discovered your channel! I've not long bought a house and the garage has some broken render, most just the final coat and the scratch coat is still on and seemingly intact. If I am looking to patch this up myself, would I need to add any pre treatment to the old scratch coat before going over the top to patch in? Not sure if that's the process but looking to patch up myself if not too complicated! Was hoping to use Weber OCR I discovered from your other vids!
I would personally hack it all off and start again mate. It's more work initially but a lot better in the link run.
How much does it typically cost for a whole house render? I know it'll come down to size of property... But just a rough figure?
Great work! but what's that stuff do to your bare hands?
Get a speed skim with a metal blade to rule or a spat covers more easily than a regular straight edge
Cheers pal
Do u think kzp would be OK to float up morning after application.
I spray render say afternoon spray morning float up.
In OK temperature.
Not sure to be honest mate - never tried it!
Is silicone render waterproof? will it allow moisture to escape from the building too? That thing to level the render looks amazing, things have moved on loads from when I did a little plastering as an amateur.
Excellent THANK YOU!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi blaine, I noticed in previous videos you have meshed with ocr , have you ever has any issues with render delamination between coats? I was on the phone with webber today and tech department has told me to never use mesh with ocr as the aggregate its to big to pass through
Banging work my guy😊
Thank you mate. Great hearing from you - I've seen a few of your videos and they're great. Fair play!
@PlasteringForBeginners eey, cheers dude appreciate it! Keep doing what your doing 👍💪
You too mate!
lovely job mate. how do you go about the plinths, stop bead and render underneath too or render straight down?
Stop bead running through pal - this will stop the damp from bridging
What about the wall being able to breathe so humidity doesn't build up, synthetic silicone finish maybe good temporarily, but don't breath
Good job🎉❤🙌
Thank you mate
What's it look like on the North side of the property in 5 years. Will it accumulate stains from pollution and mould?
Nothing some sodium hypochlorite wouldn't clean
Good old fashioned bleach. That's the stuff.
I've got one todo any advice going over cement board using atlas product the customer is supplying materials and seems to to think u can use the same material all the way through ?
I've never used Atlas but that's not the case for Baumit. There's a base coat onto the cement board, primer, then the Silicone Top Coat. I'd look into it pal - don't want you to get into trouble with it👍
Love silicone render
Me too!
@PlasteringForBeginners best 💩 ever 😎👍
hi blain ,if half the wall had pebble dash what would you do to it? i was thinking of having the insulation done and curious if it would need to be removed
I'd remove it for peace of mind. It's best if you start from scratch when possible
@@PlasteringForBeginners thanks
it's a lot easier for the plasterer and a lot more expensive for the customer
Hold on did you say " Re-render "
How did you manage that Over clean brick?
If I said that, I didn't mean to! Appologies
Does anyone knows what to mix with render so it doesn’t dry too quick ?
I need this on the back of my house. Would you be able to give me a quote please?
And trap in all the damp?
I like everything but one thing you are missing what will make your work 10 times better. Cause in gb rain a lot so these walls will be dirt after 1 or 2 years at the bottom and silicone reder Hard to wash special if it is with colour. So my advise you should make a 50 or 30cm from the bottom another silicone render but special for foundation but dark colour so this render last for ever and looks same every year as it was reder yestarday. I did it 10 years ago my house and it is still perfect
If your going to put stucco on the bricks they should've put styrofoam insulation instead of just putting the stucco directly onto the bricks?
How much to do this for a 3 story gable end?
It's hard to say without meterage pal
The only issue is that it makes changing the windows a problem.
Nice job mate. Would have looked better with a plinth all the way round and not rendered straight to the floor
Cheers mate
The only problem with silicone render you cant repair it if somebody mistakingly knocks it!
You can repair it as long as you use the right process.
You can repair it pal
Mint bud
Thanks matey
Expansion joint wont do anything if its not already through the substrate you only done it to make the hit smaller
The expansion joint runs right through the base coat. How’s it not doing anything??
@PlasteringForBeginners if the substrate cracks the render will still crack as the expansion is to allow movement through the substrate as there is no expansion through the substrate it wont allow movement
The Substrate was fine (who mentioned cracking??) - it’s a brick built house! The expansion beads needs to be applied to any render spanning over 5/6 metres to allow movement.
@PlasteringForBeginners the movement wont happen if the expansion joint is not through the substrate
Why would the substructure crack that would be a massive problem when the render is applied your covering your back for that work you have done. If the brick work moves it’s structural and putting a bead in the brick won’t stop that lmao 😂
Seems a shame to cover the bricks they look ok. I would like to see a a removal of old render and re rendering with this as often render is covering poor bricks
IMO it looks nice from a distance but horrible up close... it looks cheap like sand stuck in paint has just been painted over. Monocouche scraped looks 10x nicer and softer.
Fair enough mate
Killing bricks
Silicone? Baumit's literature describes it as lime-cement render...
That’s the base coat, the top coat is silicone
👍
Not waterproof !! Give it a few seasons will be cracked , few more will be removable in lumps like old terraline . Cement render all day long .
Of course it’s waterproof. Sand cement cracks more than any other render out there - there’s no flexibility to it!
Be gone child, the adults are talking!
@@PlasteringForBeginners Relax.
Most of these people have yet to learn.
I've done thousands and thousands and thousands of metres of silicone, (most brands).
It is the tops we know, and it lasts.
Jobs I did in 2006 are still immaculate.
I wouldn't even respond or argue with them.....
Time will teach them.
(Possibly)
Say hello to bad lungs 🫁 with silicone render