I've used you're method and it works like a champ. I did get Rapid Resizer which is a great and simple program to use. You guys are the best. And funny too.
I couldn't agree more with Ryan about the transfer being the worst part of sign carving. It is my Kryptonite!! Thanks for the tips in this video. Good info that will help get me over the hurdles. You guys ROCK!!
Thanks so much for going over this again guys! I haven't carved a sign in quite a while but am going to in the coming days. This was perfect timing and many thanks again to Eric for kindly responding to my email this week about doing this process!!!
I make quite a few patterns from wood to use for sand moulding aluminum, and while I don't use routers to carve the wood (hand carved with knives and chisels), this method works great! I used to use carbon paper and the lines never matched the original very well. With this method, I have an exact copy of the art I'm trying to replicate, and it is so much easier and faster to accomplish. Thank you so much for your videos!
I like this method, but my preferred was is laser jet with toner not ink. Print the image backward, tape it on wood, then get Sunnyside lacquer thinner and a cut up tee-shirt. Get the paper wet...then use a spoon and rub it. Take the paper 9ff and it's transferred. No worry about smudging...and the image comes out clear as a bell
When you print out your sheets with the freezer paper are you using full black ink? Or are changing the grayscale down to save on ink? It looked like you had the grayscale down. Also, does the ink smear easily on freezer paper? I remember messing up ink transfers in the past on other stuff.
The label backer is just any left over backer from any computer printed labels. We just save them up after we print labels rather than throwing them away.
@Eric Rhoten I have to admit it's a no brainer. Really. If I can help one person learn how to do something that I enjoy so much just by setting them to your channel or sharing 1 of your videos I will. Do it hands down every time? Hopefully a tribe member for life
The image transfer is also my least favorite. And it takes the longest time since I am using carbon paper. I tried this once but don’t think I set the ink level to the correct setting. Is there a universal setting are each printer different. And what would happen if I rub too hard. 😬
I think each printer is different as far as settings go. Mine (HP OfficeJet 5225) works at just the stock settings. If you rub too hard it's possible, (although extremely rare 😆😆😆) the paper could tear.
Why not get an inkjet plotter and print it just one big sheet, you can adjust the size of your print from 10% - 1000% in size, which saves a great amount of time, and use a hot clothing iron on the back of the pattern instead of rubbing.
I’m trying desperately to put a black and white photo onto a piece of wood, without it looking like a photo slapped onto a piece of wood. I’ve tried EVERYTHING. I don’t own a wood carver
If you got yourself a little palm router and the right bits, you could definitely do that. A lot of our followers do portraits and they come out awesome
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I love the way you to work together it's fun to watch.
😀😀 We have a good time! Thanks, Bob
Very well done, guys. Bob, your "student" in WV
Thanks Bob!👍👍
Carving stars are my enemy. Loved the step by step guide and tool list
Happy we could help. Thanks so much for watching and al the support ❤
Awesome job thanks for sharing much love to the family and God Bless Always.
Thank you Danny ❤
I've used you're method and it works like a champ. I did get Rapid Resizer which is a great and simple program to use. You guys are the best. And funny too.
Thanks Bob! We really appreciate the support!
I couldn't agree more with Ryan about the transfer being the worst part of sign carving. It is my Kryptonite!! Thanks for the tips in this video. Good info that will help get me over the hurdles. You guys ROCK!!
You're welcome Robert. Thank you much for watching and the feedback ❤
Thanks so much for going over this again guys! I haven't carved a sign in quite a while but am going to in the coming days. This was perfect timing and many thanks again to Eric for kindly responding to my email this week about doing this process!!!
You're very welcome Miss Lori. Thank you so much for all the support❤
You guys are a great team , truly enjoy watching you both. Looks like that will be a fun carve, hope to see a video. Thanks for all you guys do
Thanks Tom!
Just found the same brand of that freezer paper in the UK. wow what a difference over waxed paper. Thank you 😊
Nice! Glad it helped👍👍
"Make sure you don't rub too hard...." Hilarious!!
Great video showing your process.
😂😂 Thanks Frank! I was pretty happy with that little edit😂😂
Thanks for going over the transfer process again. Alway good to refresh and add something new that might help. Keep up the awesome tutorials.
Thanks Norm! We'll keep crankin em out👍👍
I make quite a few patterns from wood to use for sand moulding aluminum, and while I don't use routers to carve the wood (hand carved with knives and chisels), this method works great! I used to use carbon paper and the lines never matched the original very well. With this method, I have an exact copy of the art I'm trying to replicate, and it is so much easier and faster to accomplish. Thank you so much for your videos!
Any time, man! This is definitely the best transfer method we've found.
I use a soft printer's brayer/roller to press the image onto the work surface. No tearing or grabbing and it works beautifully.
That's a great idea!
Really great presentation and instructions.
Thanks, buddy! We appreciate it
Hello from Bristol Pa. New to your channel love your videos.
Thanks for watching, Martino! Welcome to the family👍👍
Excellent as always.
Hugs 💜
Thank you, Susan!
Good information my friend...🤘🤘🤘
Thanks, Dano!
I like this method, but my preferred was is laser jet with toner not ink. Print the image backward, tape it on wood, then get Sunnyside lacquer thinner and a cut up tee-shirt. Get the paper wet...then use a spoon and rub it. Take the paper 9ff and it's transferred. No worry about smudging...and the image comes out clear as a bell
That's a great method too. We actually used that when we carved a giant table. It's WAY better when there's more tiles
Did you let the ink dry before you started rubbing it onto the wood? If not , doesn’t it smear?
No, you want the ink wet so it transfers. You do have to be careful handling it so it doesn't smear.
How do you keep the ink from smudging after it’s on the board or does it? I’ve not tried this way yet. Thanks
We always spray a couple of rustolium clear on the print before we carve. That keeps it from smudging.
When you print out your sheets with the freezer paper are you using full black ink? Or are changing the grayscale down to save on ink? It looked like you had the grayscale down. Also, does the ink smear easily on freezer paper? I remember messing up ink transfers in the past on other stuff.
We just keep it on the standard full black, but it definitely will smear if you're not careful
@@oldave100 Thank you, for always responding. 😁
Does the freezer paper have a use/not use side? Like the label backer, you use the shiny side to print on.
Yeah, you want to print on the shiny side of the freezer paper too.
you guys are awesome
😂😂Thanks Toby!
👍👍👍👏Thank you.
Thank you Pete
Checked though all the links and did not see one for the give away
That's my fault Gary, but it's all fixed. Thanks for catching that!👍👍
What kind of printer did you use? Ink jet or Lazer??
We use an inkjet for this process
Thanx
@@oldave100 where do you guys get that awesome art work?
Where do you get the paper?
The label backer is just any left over backer from any computer printed labels.
We just save them up after we print labels rather than throwing them away.
As always liked subscribed saved and shared
Thanks Charlie! We really appreciate all your support!
@Eric Rhoten I have to admit it's a no brainer. Really. If I can help one person learn how to do something that I enjoy so much just by setting them to your channel or sharing 1 of your videos I will. Do it hands down every time?
Hopefully a tribe member for life
Thank you my friend!!!
The image transfer is also my least favorite. And it takes the longest time since I am using carbon paper. I tried this once but don’t think I set the ink level to the correct setting. Is there a universal setting are each printer different. And what would happen if I rub too hard. 😬
I think each printer is different as far as settings go. Mine (HP OfficeJet 5225) works at just the stock settings. If you rub too hard it's possible, (although extremely rare 😆😆😆) the paper could tear.
Ty 👍👍👍👍🍺❤️
Thanks ozzie!
👍
Thank you John ❤
You forgot to mention to reverse the image before printing it on your printer settings
Yep, we sure did. Thank you for the reminder.
That’s way faster than the way I do it with carbon paper, then laying the picture down and tracing over every little thing… 😂
HAHA we did that for a long time. It's kind of a pain
Why not get an inkjet plotter and print it just one big sheet, you can adjust the size of your print from 10% - 1000% in size, which saves a great amount of time, and use a hot clothing iron on the back of the pattern instead of rubbing.
Thanks for the feedback. I will look into that
I’m trying desperately to put a black and white photo onto a piece of wood, without it looking like a photo slapped onto a piece of wood. I’ve tried EVERYTHING. I don’t own a wood carver
If you got yourself a little palm router and the right bits, you could definitely do that. A lot of our followers do portraits and they come out awesome
Eric rohten