To each their own. I went with DS18 tweeters In dash for convenience and they are fresh. Kappa 6x9 and 6532ix in rear doors and 2 JL audio 12... daaaaaaaang bro I'm bumping oh LC7i audio controller, 4 channel infinity and 2 channel Hiphonics!!
The supplied screws work excellently with the supplied clips. I’d also recommend speaker gaskets between the speaker and the adapter as well as between the adapter and the door. Lastly, install sound deadening while you’ve got the door panel off.
Well done. Really nice job. The only thing I will do slightly different . When securing the speaker wire plug and wires, I would avoid having the wires touching the mounting screw of the speaker mount. Other than that, I look forward to installing my new speakers.
The quality of your instruction is absolutely top rate. You might look into a career in producing instructional training videos for makers of complex heavy industrial equipment.
I ran them without an amp for a few months and they sounded great powered by just the radio. There will be clipping as the headunit has its limitations though but you will notice a difference.
How would you power them with an amp? Forgive my dumb question. Would powering a sub with an amp be the fix? Would the door speaker draw power from that same amp
If you want great sound buy the kicker cs components, with adapters for the tweeters. And kicker cs 6x5 in the back. Like in the video use adapters and don’t make them out of the old speaker frames like some people do. I recommend I using a quality sound deading mat on all 4 doors and I nut and bolted the speakers in. On the front If you do use the kicker cs, the bass blocker is built in from the tweeters. It will still lack bass. Don’t buy one of those hideaway subs they are junk. Amp, 10in sub in a 3 in high box it’s impossible for that sub to fire and give any real bass out of it. And then when hidden under a seat it’s ridiculous. For my sons Tacoma I went with a jl sub box for behind the back seat. And a jl mono sub amp, with adjustable loc, (not the cheap 20$ locs) they don’t give you any adjustments or anything. And I ran a bass knob. The jl box and sub is only 999$ cheaper now. And a amp is 499$ by jl. I wanted small. I believe my loc was on sale from Amazon for 125$ and it had a bass control option as well. It thumps with the seat up, with the seat down it fills out the truck. And doesn’t have that ridiculous license plate or hear rattling. You hear clean crisp bass. As well as fell. Once we did that we noticed the factory radio was lacking for the speakers. I installed a jl full 4 speaker amp. With a loc with built in eq. Just set the eq on the loc and leave it. Then you can use your factory radio’s eq to make little adjustments. For the sub I mounted the loc next to the amp in the back. For the door speakers and tweeters I mounted the loc from the jl 4 channel amp inside the console . So I can use the eq. The loc with eq was 250$ on Amazon Tacoma need better sounds they suck from the factory. On a 2020 with jbl system. I spent a little over 2200$ and it was worth it my son loves it. For power wire use a bigger all copper gauge. Don’t use one of the 20$ install kits, they don’t have good wiring. Buying quality RCA’s makes a huge difference. And you won’t get any engine noise. That is from a bad install. Cheap power wire and rca’s not grounded properly. But I like kicker for doors and tweeters. And jl for subs and amps
Sounds like you did everything right. Just got done re-working all the audio and adding a sub and will be doing a video how to/review on that in the next few weeks. I agree, JL stealthbox is the way to go and the LC7i audio processor is much better to tune the rear speaker levels to match the fronts.
@@randomrebuilds I tried and I knew it wouldn’t work a 10 enclosed kicker. I end up putting that into our old 4 person side by side lol and it works lol. My can am maverick haven’t done anything radio wise. I may do one of those jbl mini blue tooth amps and 4 good waterproof speakers. I have a taco tunes box I never used, jl is the best for the Tacoma .I’m with you. And a big difference is yhe RCA’s the Loc,s and I ran new speaker wires. The taco box would of been fine but I don’t wanna loose interior peices to make it fit. I have a friend that used the skar box. With skar amp and Polk door speakers, 2 way in the back and 3 3way in the front and he had to clip the tweeter wires it was to much high end. It sounds great but he kept the factory radio for dirt speakers. If any i would like to add some more mid range. But now that things are breaking in it’s been great, once that jl box started moving more and big thing with door speakers use dampening matt, and use good adapters, try to nut and bolt them. And silicone any open spots. For me it was worth loosing the space. Hope your taco come out perfect. Give the peddal Commander, and Kn cold air intake a shot. Truck wakes up. Huge difference. Thanks have a great weekend
It makes a slight difference - nothing drastic though. To really make the rears shine, an audio processor is needed to balance out the sound levels of the rear to match the fronts.
@@randomrebuilds I just installed front and rear while using your video. It’s working but I’m curious… am I tripping or are the rear speakers a lot lower in volume than the front door speakers ???
To each their own. I went with DS18 tweeters In dash for convenience and they are fresh. Kappa 6x9 and 6532ix in rear doors and 2 JL audio 12... daaaaaaaang bro I'm bumping oh LC7i audio controller, 4 channel infinity and 2 channel Hiphonics!!
Thank you so much man !!!👍🏽👍🏽
The supplied screws work excellently with the supplied clips. I’d also recommend speaker gaskets between the speaker and the adapter as well as between the adapter and the door. Lastly, install sound deadening while you’ve got the door panel off.
Well done. Really nice job. The only thing I will do slightly different . When securing the speaker wire plug and wires, I would avoid having the wires touching the mounting screw of the speaker mount. Other than that, I look forward to installing my new speakers.
The quality of your instruction is absolutely top rate. You might look into a career in producing instructional training videos for makers of complex heavy industrial equipment.
Great job bud
Did you use an amp to power these? If not, did you notice lack of full potential? I just want to make sure it’s just plug n play
I ran them without an amp for a few months and they sounded great powered by just the radio. There will be clipping as the headunit has its limitations though but you will notice a difference.
@@randomrebuildshow is the bass without amps
How would you power them with an amp? Forgive my dumb question. Would powering a sub with an amp be the fix? Would the door speaker draw power from that same amp
Is the sound difference huge from the factory 6X9’s? I’m considering purchasing
It is. Once they break in after a week - the bass response is fantastic!
Having hard time finding an adapter for the third gen Taco. Can you ID the specific adapter you used in this install
It’s the one included with Crutchfield speaker purchase.
Do you have the link for those speakers, adapter plate and speakers wire adapters?
Crutchfield with throw in the wire harness and adapter bracket for free. You save like $30
If you want great sound buy the kicker cs components, with adapters for the tweeters. And kicker cs 6x5 in the back. Like in the video use adapters and don’t make them out of the old speaker frames like some people do. I recommend I using a quality sound deading mat on all 4 doors and I nut and bolted the speakers in. On the front If you do use the kicker cs, the bass blocker is built in from the tweeters. It will still lack bass. Don’t buy one of those hideaway subs they are junk. Amp, 10in sub in a 3 in high box it’s impossible for that sub to fire and give any real bass out of it. And then when hidden under a seat it’s ridiculous. For my sons Tacoma I went with a jl sub box for behind the back seat. And a jl mono sub amp, with adjustable loc, (not the cheap 20$ locs) they don’t give you any adjustments or anything. And I ran a bass knob. The jl box and sub is only 999$ cheaper now. And a amp is 499$ by jl. I wanted small. I believe my loc was on sale from Amazon for 125$ and it had a bass control option as well. It thumps with the seat up, with the seat down it fills out the truck. And doesn’t have that ridiculous license plate or hear rattling. You hear clean crisp bass. As well as fell. Once we did that we noticed the factory radio was lacking for the speakers. I installed a jl full 4 speaker amp. With a loc with built in eq. Just set the eq on the loc and leave it. Then you can use your factory radio’s eq to make little adjustments. For the sub I mounted the loc next to the amp in the back. For the door speakers and tweeters I mounted the loc from the jl 4 channel amp inside the console . So I can use the eq. The loc with eq was 250$ on Amazon Tacoma need better sounds they suck from the factory.
On a 2020 with jbl system. I spent a little over 2200$ and it was worth it my son loves it. For power wire use a bigger all copper gauge. Don’t use one of the 20$ install kits, they don’t have good wiring. Buying quality RCA’s makes a huge difference. And you won’t get any engine noise. That is from a bad install. Cheap power wire and rca’s not grounded properly. But I like kicker for doors and tweeters. And jl for subs and amps
Sounds like you did everything right. Just got done re-working all the audio and adding a sub and will be doing a video how to/review on that in the next few weeks. I agree, JL stealthbox is the way to go and the LC7i audio processor is much better to tune the rear speaker levels to match the fronts.
@@randomrebuilds I tried and I knew it wouldn’t work a 10 enclosed kicker. I end up putting that into our old 4 person side by side lol and it works lol. My can am maverick haven’t done anything radio wise. I may do one of those jbl mini blue tooth amps and 4 good waterproof speakers. I have a taco tunes box I never used, jl is the best for the Tacoma .I’m with you. And a big difference is yhe RCA’s the Loc,s and I ran new speaker wires. The taco box would of been fine but I don’t wanna loose interior peices to make it fit. I have a friend that used the skar box. With skar amp and Polk door speakers, 2 way in the back and 3 3way in the front and he had to clip the tweeter wires it was to much high end. It sounds great but he kept the factory radio for dirt speakers. If any i would like to add some more mid range. But now that things are breaking in it’s been great, once that jl box started moving more and big thing with door speakers use dampening matt, and use good adapters, try to nut and bolt them. And silicone any open spots.
For me it was worth loosing the space.
Hope your taco come out perfect.
Give the peddal Commander, and Kn cold air intake a shot. Truck wakes up. Huge difference.
Thanks have a great weekend
Do you have the JBL head unit or the base unit?
do u have a link for these
Where can I get one of those Taco Life sweater?
Designed it on CustomInk. Might make a few extra with my next order
Going to replace all the speakers with Polk Audio, was going to amp them, but decided against it.
Doing the DSS269 kit
Hey man, I have an access cab myself and was wondering if it’s worth upgrading the rear door speakers ? Or it doesn’t matter ? What you think?
It makes a slight difference - nothing drastic though. To really make the rears shine, an audio processor is needed to balance out the sound levels of the rear to match the fronts.
@@randomrebuilds hey
@@randomrebuilds I just installed front and rear while using your video. It’s working but I’m curious… am I tripping or are the rear speakers a lot lower in volume than the front door speakers ???
@@Turtlemilk nope - you’re not tripping. Sadly it’s how Toyota tunes the headunit.
I’m ready to get my replace thanks very explanatory video 2020 Tacoma!
🔥👍
2 years is all i got with my new kickers, front right speaker is blown
Kickers where my choice for audio but now I can't stop bragging about ds 18