Here is a link for the window caulk non silicone urethane I use on amazon amzn.to/2YNrldX dominion seam sealer on amazon OMG way more money amzn.to/3ly6vJe
I bought seam sealer at the auto parts store and it was dried in the tube and wouldn't come out, that tells me that nobody uses that stuff. I did a lot of research and decided on Gorilla Construction Adhesive. I like it.
por 15 is completely different than rustoleum, it's a moisture cured urethane like rust bullet, master series, and a few others. While rustoleum is an alkyd enamel like zero-rust. Most Rtv silicones release acetic acid when curing which can/will cause rust.
The Quad is a polyurethane and works awesome on windows, love it. That acrylic stuff is JUNK, I wouldn;t use it anywhere...DTM - Direct to Metal, there are some primers but I have not yet tested it yet....painted parts are still in the basement...For the 67 mustang floor, I used a roofing flash sealant, while wet, rubbing alcohol removes it, once cured, only time takes it off...
Look up the sds/msds sheets to see if the ingredients are the same. silicone has acetic acid so it may etch or eat paint, then seal moisture in. bad news. good overview
Some household products May be acceptable crossing over to automotive applications. But there are a few considerations. A house is not a moving, vibrating, ‘twisting’, expanding/contracting surface in the same way as a vehicle. Automotive-Specific products (typically) have that engineered in to their products. There is also the chemical CROSS-LINKING aspect. Automotive-Specific products tend to be engineered to be compatible with other auto-specific materials. This is Especially True in paint materials. I understand your intention, and you are certainly entitled to your opinion. But, Facts are not opinions. I’m not saying that NO non-automotive product can cross over. I have found an alternative to Ospho, that works Great. Been in automotive AND construction industries for Four Decades. So viewers, roll your own dice .... you make decisions based upon “cheapest”, “easiest”, or “fastest”, you can’t cry over Shit results in the end or shortly thereafter.
Silicone sticks to nothing, water tracks under it in time. I use urethane or Holsom Fix all. Fix all will stick to plastic better. Gave up on silicone years ago, from an ex builder.
You being a painter you know about klean strip Concrete Etch & Metal Prep not automotive product get at lowes/home depot...... but I like it better than ospho and it"s cheaper. I like the dynatron no.550 seam sealer but I always rust treat and prime before using it for better rust protection, and always wait for things to fully cure.
Like the informative video on seam sealers. What are you going to use to seal the rain gutter channel seam? I don't like Por-15 because you can't spray it, (Stays atomized in the air forever) and the price is outrageous! My automotive painting is limited to epoxy paints for chassis on big trucks and single stage painting of vehicle cabs. ( NAPA Sherwin Williams automotive paint)
im using rust converter to stop the rust then automotive seam sealer for that one. some of the stuff underneath I use water based caulk over spray can paint.
Mike, which osi quad do you use? There are several different ones. Price range $6-$10 range at Lowe’s and or Home Depot. I live in Southern California. This looks to be the best choice for me to seal the seams in my Vanagon Westy. Inside and the outside seams. I also have some outside wall panels that have separated from the wall braces inside. They have a flexible rubbery glue between them that has separated. Will the OSI work to re attach the panels. The space is about 1/8” and flexes just a bit. Thanks for your advice and your videos. 😎😎😎👍👍👍
Thanks Mike!! I literally was going to look up Seam sealer for my beetle project. I had to remove some of it to do some work! So if I use the painters caulk over my paint. I can paint over the caulk? I removed the seam sealer on the heater channels, and want to reseal it. Not worried about drying time. Let it dry for about 72 hours?
let it dry really good. and it does work. paints like a charm. I use it in select areas that do not need to be as durable. spray can it first. let that dry caulk away.
![Full Underbody Rust Protection Guide [Seam Sealer, Underseal & Cavity Wax by Dinitrol] BMW E30 | 035](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/faO44fDtVQM/mqdefault.jpg)
Here is a link for the window caulk non silicone urethane I use on amazon amzn.to/2YNrldX
dominion seam sealer on amazon OMG way more money amzn.to/3ly6vJe
I bought seam sealer at the auto parts store and it was dried in the tube and wouldn't come out, that tells me that nobody uses that stuff. I did a lot of research and decided on Gorilla Construction Adhesive. I like it.
por 15 is completely different than rustoleum, it's a moisture cured urethane like rust bullet, master series, and a few others. While rustoleum is an alkyd enamel like zero-rust.
Most Rtv silicones release acetic acid when curing which can/will cause rust.
no silicones for me too. silicone also promotes poor adhesion.
The Quad is a polyurethane and works awesome on windows, love it. That acrylic stuff is JUNK, I wouldn;t use it anywhere...DTM - Direct to Metal, there are some primers but I have not yet tested it yet....painted parts are still in the basement...For the 67 mustang floor, I used a roofing flash sealant, while wet, rubbing alcohol removes it, once cured, only time takes it off...
Great info !! Always keep an open mind.
I repair paint in an automotive factory. We use a water based seem sealer. I think it drys faster with a heat gun than any air-dry sealers
yea water based does not always mean rust. there are lots of water based products that prevent rust and dont cause it.
Thank you very for a much needed information.
I have used pl glue it's made by loctight on my town car floor repair and worked great
Hi Mike, I keep learning new things from you👍 I just which I had a project like this to work on. Hopefully someday and can use these tips
Look up the sds/msds sheets to see if the ingredients are the same. silicone has acetic acid so it may etch or eat paint, then seal moisture in. bad news. good overview
Very informative. Thanks Mike.
Some household products May be acceptable crossing over to automotive applications. But there are a few considerations. A house is not a moving, vibrating, ‘twisting’, expanding/contracting surface in the same way as a vehicle. Automotive-Specific products (typically) have that engineered in to their products. There is also the chemical CROSS-LINKING aspect. Automotive-Specific products tend to be engineered to be compatible with other auto-specific materials. This is Especially True in paint materials.
I understand your intention, and you are certainly entitled to your opinion. But, Facts are not opinions. I’m not saying that NO non-automotive product can cross over. I have found an alternative to Ospho, that works Great. Been in automotive AND construction industries for Four Decades.
So viewers, roll your own dice .... you make decisions based upon “cheapest”, “easiest”, or “fastest”, you can’t cry over Shit results in the end or shortly thereafter.
Silicone sticks to nothing, water tracks under it in time. I use urethane or Holsom Fix all. Fix all will stick to plastic better. Gave up on silicone years ago, from an ex builder.
yea for sure. no silicone for me.
Thanks Mike
You being a painter you know about klean strip Concrete Etch & Metal Prep not automotive product get at lowes/home depot...... but I like it better than ospho and it"s cheaper. I like the dynatron no.550 seam sealer but I always rust treat and prime before using it for better rust protection, and always wait for things to fully cure.
all that stuff is good. right on.
Like the informative video on seam sealers. What are you going to use to seal the rain gutter channel seam? I don't like Por-15 because you can't spray it, (Stays atomized in the air forever) and the price is outrageous! My automotive painting is limited to epoxy paints for chassis on big trucks and single stage painting of vehicle cabs. ( NAPA Sherwin Williams automotive paint)
im using rust converter to stop the rust then automotive seam sealer for that one. some of the stuff underneath I use water based caulk over spray can paint.
Mike, which osi quad do you use? There are several different ones. Price range $6-$10 range at Lowe’s and or Home Depot. I live in Southern California. This looks to be the best choice for me to seal the seams in my Vanagon Westy. Inside and the outside seams. I also have some outside wall panels that have separated from the wall braces inside. They have a flexible rubbery glue between them that has separated. Will the OSI work to re attach the panels. The space is about 1/8” and flexes just a bit. Thanks for your advice and your videos. 😎😎😎👍👍👍
Thanks Mike!! I literally was going to look up Seam sealer for my beetle project. I had to remove some of it to do some work!
So if I use the painters caulk over my paint. I can paint over the caulk?
I removed the seam sealer on the heater channels, and want to reseal it.
Not worried about drying time. Let it dry for about 72 hours?
Vintage Bugz Ah ow!! Okay I’ll get the real deal!
let it dry really good. and it does work. paints like a charm. I use it in select areas that do not need to be as durable. spray can it first. let that dry caulk away.
they snuck in a commercial for sensodyne toothpaste today. that's a first.
some house clauks have grit in them. i don't like those for a car.
GOOD SHIT! NOT CACA! 👍😁🇲🇽👏 THANK YOU.