How to Build High Tensile Fence - Part 1: Planning Your Fence
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2021
- High Tensile fencing is an asset that will last a lifetime when planned and installed properly. In this first installment of our "How to Build High Tensile Fence" series, we cover how to plan for the most versatile fence system for your context as well as installing your main end posts.
Shop our selection of High Tensile Fence and equipment at kencove.com
WARNING: Serious injury may occur by mishandling high tensile fencing accessories, and or mechanical post drivers. Head, hand, and eye protection should be worn at all times while working with high tensile fence wire and accessories. The individuals in this video are professionals with many years of experience in fence construction. They have been properly trained in the safe use of mechanical post drivers.
Make sure that you are fully trained in the operation of the mechanical post driver you will be using. You should also make yourself aware of the safe and proper use of all fencing tools and accessories before attempting to build a fence.
Kencove Farm Fence Supplies is not responsible for any injuries incurred while constructing a high tensile fence or driving fence post with a mechanical post driver of any type. 
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That's a beautiful '78 K20 doing what it was built to do - love it!
Hi great videos. Never considered making the top wire an earth - how did you arrive at that concept.
My standard cattle and sheep fence has over the last fifty years become a seven wire with 3 hot wires - every second wire starting with the top wire being hot.
The bottom wire is always earthed the 6 th wire next to it is optionally earth - simply by connecting it with a wrap of wire to the adjacent earth or hot wire.
Every second hole from the top of a standard Warratah Star Picket gives good spacing for a seven wire electric fence.
Using this spacing makes it easy to replace a broken timber post with a star picket.
In other cases I use Gallagher’s recommended wire spacing.
thanks guys, great videos
Great video series. i heard you say to drive the skinny end in the ground. i’ve bee told to bury the wide end so that frost won’t upheave the post, it will instead keep downward pressure on the post. what are your thoughts?
Hello Jack! Great question. If you are driving the post in with a post driver, it is recommended to drive the skinny end into the ground. This will great a wedge-like approach. If you are hand digging and setting the post, then you should put the larger end in the ground. This is where it will help with upheaving. So you are partially correct, that theory is just for hand-set posts instead of driven. Hope that helps!
awesome response, thanks for clarifying. makes perfect sense.
@@jackryan9587 You are welcome! Happy to help!
I think you said 30’ between posts. How did you come to decide how much space between posts?
Great question Daniel! 30ft spacing is used here because we are using poly droppers between posts, there is big changes in topography, and we are fencing cattle and sheep. Here is a good blog with more in-depth discussion factors concerning post spacing: kencove.com/c/blog/article/most-common-fence-questions
@@KencoveFarmFence thanks! Also what type of wood do you suggest is best? Spruce, cedar, pine? The local mill supplies spruce at the best price but I think cedar is better? Is there a way to treat spruce? Like dip the part of the posts going into the ground in a chemical?
@@danielmatthews6321 Your best fence post is going to be CCA treated. This is not something you can do on your own
Do you have a video on post selection?
Hello, We do not have a video on post selection, but thank you for the suggestion! Are you interested in learning differences in wood posts, different styles of posts, or all the above? We would be happy to add it to our production list!
@@KencoveFarmFence thanks for asking. Because I don't know what I don't know and all in think I know is that "it depends", my answer has to be all of the above. :)
Sounded like you've really done your homework so I'm certain others everywhere will appreciate knowing what you learned, even if your learning's mostly focused on the concerns of your area. General information can probably be extrapolated causing us to think of things we might have missed (ground termites, frost, longevity, compatibility, maintenance, etc).
Its probably asking a bit much but if your looking for content to create someday, it probably lends itself well to a 3 part series... Overview and deeper on material type and selections within comparable types (wood, metallic or even a bonus if there are other types).
Thanks for considering and beat wishes on and offline.
@@l0gic23 Thank you! We will keep this all in mind for future production
How long do treated wood posts last?
Kencove's CCA treated posts will last 20-30 years.
@@KencoveFarmFence is there a longer lasting option? I love the wood posts look but the idea of re-doing a 5 acre perimeter fence seems exhausting
@@charlotteboyett-napper257 Fiberglass and composite will have a long life, if there is no pressure to them. A wood post is going to withstand the most for the longest period of time. 30 years is what we consider "safe", however a well maintained fence line could withstand a much longer life.
@@KencoveFarmFence how far apart can I put the posts?
@@charlotteboyett-napper257 This is very dependent on your ground conditions, topography, fence material, etc. Our product specialist would be happy to help you plan your project and these types of details, give us a call at 800-KENCOVE