Lens Compression: APS-C Mode vs Full Frame on Sony A7R V
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- Опубликовано: 21 ноя 2023
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Ok, let's settle this for once and for all. Does lens compression exist? And how does it work? And if I use APS-C mode on Full Frame camera and crop the image - what happens with lens compression? Let me explain...
Videos from the series:
24 in APS-C vs 35 - • Sony 35mm f/1.4GM vs 2...
35 in APS-C vs 50 - • 35mm f/1.4 GM in APS-C...
50 in APS-C vs 85 - • Sony 50mm f/1.2 GM in ...
85 in APS-C vs 135 - • Sony 85mm f/1.4GM in A...
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Hi there, pro wedding photog here - everything in this video is 100% correct. It sorta stinks that people in the comments would be so enthusiastic and eager to throw jabs...when they're completely wrong. But the good news is that it produced a really straightforward and informative video. Thanks Magic!
I didn’t believe it until I saw it. I had a completely different understanding of lens compression before. My mind is totally blown. Great video Magic!
it does do compression but best way is get a 35mm for example and take pic then go into aps-c mode and take steps back to same frame and you will see more compression with a little less blur
Thanks, the Dunning Kruger effect is strong in photographer circles. Your video about primes and APC mode was awesome!
Awesome episode!
Good video, I think people get this confused is that usually with a change of focal length, they also change the distance to the subject and THEREBY changed the compression
I got to try this myself!
Awesome video magic! I love your passion for the craft just like I do!
Well done!
Good Video!
I always was wondering if it is really exactly the same - now I know. Thanks. Was a fun video.
Nice video 👌
Magic with the magic!
OMG!!!! My mind is blown... wow, i need to make this test for myself, but wowwww... thank you so much!
thank you , I've always wondered myself wha were he trade offs, and felt that for 1.4 was not worth the crop vs a non crop equivalent , where I use crop is mostly when I am short on a long lens, i.e. on my 70-200 shooting a sport event, and not able to reach the action as I wanted .......
I think one of the cases to use crop mode on wider lenses is when you are going for ultra compact. Say you're shooting with the samyang 18 mm f2.8. that lens already has a fairly deep depth of field. Putting it in crop mode for a 27 mm f3.5, you are increasingly depth of field. But you were never getting a shallow depth of field look with the lens anyways. So, it's not like you're losing anything.
So let me see if I get it right... Sony A7RV -- I have a 35-150 at 150mm say f2.8. Subjects are a decent distance. I'm at a sporting event and I want to zoom in -- I still am confused if I go with APS-C mode to make the lens 1.5x, or 225mm at f4.2 OR stay at 150 2.8 and crop later in post? I understand now that compression is the same -- but does depth of field change when comparing 2.8 v 4.2 at a long distance? Seems to me that cropping in post is always better?
Thanks this is great! I just sent this video to a photographer who was citing 'more compression' as an advantage of medium format and a reason he chose his gfx system.
I was chiming in too, and it really seems like cognitive dissonance. And I get it, it must feel bad to buy into a system for a non-existent reason. I would argue the actual reason for the GFX is the pixel size and 16-bit colour (which the 50R does not have), especially for video it is a great system. Or the uniqueness of the Hasselblad 907 series.
@@user-vp5yo5ys5r Resolution too innit.
So using my 35mm 1.4 GM in crop mode to get 50mm isn't a good idea then 😮
Nice proof work bro! And now, would you take a challange about APSC lens distorsion ? Whether the distortion will be appropriate for the actual APSC focal length not a virtual one [FF equivalent] ? In other words, will be distorsion at 16mm APSC be more pronounced than 24mm FF ? Let's review it in Magic way ;D Pozdrowienia bracie !
You also loose megapixels, not just the bokeh... but yeah with longer telephoto lenses and a high megapixel cameras like the A7RV or A7CR you almost have a 2 in 1 camera, meaning all your lenses gets even more versatile. I personally shoot stills with an A7IV and mostly use my Tamron 35-150mm which can be a very versatile 35 f2 to 150 f2.8 (33megapixel) and extend even longer 225 f4 -ish lens and produce a 14 megapixel image with a quick press of the APSC crop button. (Totally usable on social media)
I tell people this allllllll the time.
Subject the moon. FE 200-600mm + 2X teleconverter = 1200mm then in APS-C =1.5X = 1800mm this will fill the frame and what you are using the the center of the sensor getting faster focus using the full amount of pixels where in just full frame not all pixels are used, that is why APS-C is faster focus. Now for the coolness, for DOF just use the small or medium square point for focus in either FF or APS-C the DOF will be narrow for is you use wide area AF you get focus on everything back and forward close. I use the FE 24-240mm F3.5-6.3 OSS or in APS-C 36-360mm (crop on sensor) as a every day carry, I can zoom in on a critter at 360mm use small squire AF and get DOF bokeh and narrow DOF, ok so the image is smaller as far pixel number so what Topaz Gigapixel enlarges to what you desire as well as other programs and where is it shown on the printed image the size and to post on the WWW you will use a jpeg only the printer enlarges the tiff or other. Two other things f/# why do many think they need a 1.4 or 1.8 or even a .95 for when you use square center focus in small mode it does not include the background anyway, just save your lens money and know the focus modes and The f/# on a Sony whether or not fast or slow there is no cares for Sony 7RV can adjust high or low ISO with 2 ISO levels where clarity with less noise after. And with ISO invariance all you have to do in post is increase exposure or decrease and no matter you will get the exposure (brightness) you want with a noise level equal 5EV + or - and on top of that no matter the noise seen at a 100 or 500 zoom in post there are many programs that will Clean AND Sharpen to be like a 25 ISO image. Not to beat the band too much the Dynamic Range also of most all mode 2 and above of all Sony Cameras is great that shadows will have less noise and lights can be recovered say even if using a -5EV on the dail or if you want a brighter image at capture going + 5 EV in a very very dark place.
Example: I like to capture Milky Ways and it is always a very dark place but in manual mode looking at the bottom of screen M.M. adjusting any setting to get a +.7 for a 3/4 to the right or in Aperture mode using the + EV for a brighter image for histogram of expose to the right 3/4 you get a bright as day image with stars above and colorful green trees and /or flowers the eye can not see where everyone will say you PS it. Ever on a beach at night and after your eye get adjusted after a while and you look down and see little round spots of light but even waving your hand over it never get blocked out, a wonderment of light!
Lastly get a mod 1 or 2 A7 and you will get the Digital Filter app on camera and be able to get stars above a bright city not needing to do a replace sky later in post as well as getting a Milky Way above a lit city for there are three sections you can adjust with any camera setting in each area. Alert you can no longer buy the app but if bought a while ago you have a year to download it. So your A7 or R or S Mod 1 or 2 becomes more valuable for no need to buy and carry filters or or holded, $ saving over a lifetime and tricks that your will need items externally like doing star trails or mult same subjects in an image. They have real toys to play with!!! And outputs in RAW or Jpeg and the filter app can be edited before sending to SD card both RAW or Jpeg.
Magic did justice to "make it make sense".
Every real photographer should know that shooting from the same distance, ALL Lenses have the same perspective, it is only the angle of view that changes.
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Zajebiste, na pochybel znawcom, którzy się nie znają :D
my (Thor)ground lol
Well 50mm with crop factor 1.5 makes a 75mm lens and not 76mm. So ChatGTP was right that you're wrong 😅
Not if you apply the actual crop of 1.52 (abbreviated to 1.5 as it's close enough).
We both know that - so - that's the end of the topic
Ever do an image at 1800mm (cropped on sensor in APS-C mode) of mommy bird feeding baby birds some 200 yards away up in a tree with a very narrow DOF, blurred front and back of nest, bird eye focus as seen on rear screen with the green square but using Small moveable square and using a -5EV to get great feather detail on a bright sunny day saving from blown highlights. Everyone will ask how did you get so close you could touch one. I have a friend who took a tour in Africa of leopard's at dusk from on a boat using 200-600mm using 2x teleconverter in APS-C getting daylight with great sharpness and low noise and narrow DOF and got perfect eye AF looking like was standing so close and seeing in focus tip of nose to back and each spot also clear and sharp but safely far enough away the cat looked him or them a zooming on image could see the colorful iris detail. just know your tool and fast glass to be dammed to the old film days.
I don’t see the point in shooting in crop mode. You’re losing the ability to control your crop in post which can lead regrettable decisions
but you can see "the crop" on the spot so no wondering around when editing later, it's done on the session.
You are saving a ton of time in post and also it could happen that you sort an image out when going through 2k images from a big weeding, because you could not remember every image you wanted to crop in post and in the hurry of culling it is gone because you did not "see" the crop the same way when culling.
Faster than changing to another lens though isn't it? Also faster than cropping in post! Win win!
When you're so rich you use a tablet computer to draw a diagram instead of just picking up a pen and a piece of paper...