Thank you! I replaced a T80 with a newer Trance 3 and it worked fine for me. The wife kept complaining the hot water was tuning off in the shower. After trying to identify the issue both technical and wife, it turned out she showers during peak water usage hours and I wasn't. Came across your video and all I can say is thank you! Zero cost solution!
Thank you thank you I was wondering what my plastic lever type thing was loose inside my unit. By watching your video could see it was the mechanical low water pressure indicator (with the fluorescent pink sticker) Thank you sir for all the info on the pressure switching as well i love knowing how things function so one can have the informative knowledge as to how you can or cannot hack Keep up the DIY i say…
Thanks 😊. Appears to have worked for me. I used a heavy duty cable tie. Just cut it down to size. It wasn't fully tight but enough to touch the 2 switches. I checked the safety cut off switch after installation and it appears to be still working.
If the water pressure dropped and the water temp suddenly increased it is unlikley that it would reach scalding as you would feel it and you could turn the temp down. A catastrophic change in pressure is another matter than a slight one that plauges these showers!
@AdrianTechWizard factual😅. I encourage you to keep messing with electrics which u have no clue about other than videos on RUclips. If you manage to fix your small problem without costing you more money or your life then we'll done to you 😅
@@spencerwitton7390 Funny you should say that because I made my own fix which allows the main switch to control the on/off as normal but bypasses the pressure switch. It's really a mechanical bypass so I'm not too worried about screwing anything up. There is also a temp sensor on the heater box anyway which will cut power if it goes over temp. The shower is fine it's just the spring in the pressure sensor is too strong so the shower turns off when the pressure is a little below normal. If you wanted to take it fully apart then you could replace the spring but that would be rather messy and annoying.
You have disabled a safety feature that all electric showers must have by law. You have voided the warranty & you are now legally liable for any scalds / burns suffered by any guests using the shower. There is a saying in the trade, a little knowledge can be very dangerous
Thanks, im gonna have a look at mine after ive pressure and flow tested the cws, the shower seems to have a mind of its own, far too sensitive and very annoying!
My shower if you turn on out to 5 never gets hot , turn it up to 8 it’s start to get the boiling noise , turn it down to 6 for a minute or two the then dos to 5 works fine , definitely those two switches , what I can’t understand by turning up to 8 you actually reduce the water pressure
And speaking of irresponsible and dangerous things, do you know any easy way reduce the temperature of the water when the top dial is on double hot and the bottom of maximum cold?
The water turns off before the heater is switched off if you don't pull the power cord first ? This is a major design flaw, if it's true. Your hack seems to just avoid the low pressure shut-off switch being activated . . . is this wise, I wonder ? Any ideas on excessively high water pressure, e.g. if shower inlet is directly connected to the mains pipe into the house ? A neighbour has this problem with his T80.
That's right. Avoiding the low pressure shut-off means that when the pressure drops the water will get hotter. You can just turn down the temperature if this happens. I don't know about excessivley high pressure I'm afaid. Perhaps he could have some sort of restriction valve installed in the pipe leading to the shower.
I have the same shower - just fitted a couple of weeks ago. think there must be a problem with these as mine will begin heating water in the unit as soon as the isolator switch is turned on but BEFORE the illuminated on/off button on the shower is pressed!?? it has already burned out one TCO which I have replaced, but is still doing the same thing. We now have to turn the temp control selector to COLD before stopping the shower. Has anyone any idea what might be causing this? its a brand new unit.
This sounds like a problem with your unit. Mine only does this after I eliminated the low pressure shut-off switches. I don't use the on/off button at all now. I leave it in an on position and turn the shower off with the isolator pull cord.
I understand the concern. The actual thermal cutout switch which is on top of the heating element is still operational. The tape over the button is not sticking it down it's just to remind myself not to use it.
Hi all So got a shower problem and hope someone can help 1) t70xr kept running cold, like it was the TCO, but then came on warm with power 1 eco now cold and power 2 warm, not hot. So half the can is dead or maybe a switch fault in the shower. 2) Replaced the shower with a new t100xr, and it works on cold, eco power 1, but on full power 2 it shuts off all flow after about 5 minutes What are the symptoms of low current caused by gloss crud or a film on pull switch or shower power block wire ends So old shower now runs warm on half a ca, new one runs on cold setting and eco Normally I'd say solenoid, but it's only doing it on max Maybe lack of current damaged the first one and is causing the new one problem
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Thank you! I replaced a T80 with a newer Trance 3 and it worked fine for me. The wife kept complaining the hot water was tuning off in the shower. After trying to identify the issue both technical and wife, it turned out she showers during peak water usage hours and I wasn't. Came across your video and all I can say is thank you! Zero cost solution!
Thank you thank you
I was wondering what my plastic lever type thing was loose inside my unit. By watching your video could see it was the mechanical low water pressure indicator (with the fluorescent pink sticker)
Thank you sir for all the info on the pressure switching as well i love knowing how things function so one can have the informative knowledge as to how you can or cannot hack
Keep up the DIY i say…
Thanks 😊. Appears to have worked for me. I used a heavy duty cable tie. Just cut it down to size. It wasn't fully tight but enough to touch the 2 switches. I checked the safety cut off switch after installation and it appears to be still working.
DO NOT EVER DO THIS TO YOUR ELECTRIC SHOWER. IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. THIS VIDEO SHOULD BE TAKEN DOWN IMMEDIATELY.
If the water pressure dropped and the water temp suddenly increased it is unlikley that it would reach scalding as you would feel it and you could turn the temp down. A catastrophic change in pressure is another matter than a slight one that plauges these showers!
Are you basing this on anything factual or just making it up?
@AdrianTechWizard factual😅. I encourage you to keep messing with electrics which u have no clue about other than videos on RUclips. If you manage to fix your small problem without costing you more money or your life then we'll done to you 😅
@@spencerwitton7390 Funny you should say that because I made my own fix which allows the main switch to control the on/off as normal but bypasses the pressure switch. It's really a mechanical bypass so I'm not too worried about screwing anything up.
There is also a temp sensor on the heater box anyway which will cut power if it goes over temp.
The shower is fine it's just the spring in the pressure sensor is too strong so the shower turns off when the pressure is a little below normal.
If you wanted to take it fully apart then you could replace the spring but that would be rather messy and annoying.
You have disabled a safety feature that all electric showers must have by law. You have voided the warranty & you are now legally liable for any scalds / burns suffered by any guests using the shower.
There is a saying in the trade, a little knowledge can be very dangerous
Thanks, im gonna have a look at mine after ive pressure and flow tested the cws, the shower seems to have a mind of its own, far too sensitive and very annoying!
My shower if you turn on out to 5 never gets hot , turn it up to 8 it’s start to get the boiling noise , turn it down to 6 for a minute or two the then dos to 5 works fine , definitely those two switches , what I can’t understand by turning up to 8 you actually reduce the water pressure
Under the impression that this switch is there to save the heating element if water pressure is low or water gets turned off
How was the water hot when it was set to cold..?
yeah no, fix the water pressure or get a low pressure electric shower. DONT DO THIS.
And speaking of irresponsible and dangerous things, do you know any easy way reduce the temperature of the water when the top dial is on double hot and the bottom of maximum cold?
Can't you just turn the top dial to single hot?
@@otto36 I could, but the water pressure becames much lower... Is that normal?
That is strange it shouldn't have any impact on the water pressure @@joaoDLDS
The water turns off before the heater is switched off if you don't pull the power cord first ?
This is a major design flaw, if it's true.
Your hack seems to just avoid the low pressure shut-off switch being activated . . .
is this wise, I wonder ?
Any ideas on excessively high water pressure, e.g. if shower inlet is directly connected to the mains pipe into the house ?
A neighbour has this problem with his T80.
That's right. Avoiding the low pressure shut-off means that when the pressure drops the water will get hotter. You can just turn down the temperature if this happens. I don't know about excessivley high pressure I'm afaid. Perhaps he could have some sort of restriction valve installed in the pipe leading to the shower.
I have the same shower - just fitted a couple of weeks ago. think there must be a problem with these as mine will begin heating water in the unit as soon as the isolator switch is turned on but BEFORE the illuminated on/off button on the shower is pressed!?? it has already burned out one TCO which I have replaced, but is still doing the same thing. We now have to turn the temp control selector to COLD before stopping the shower. Has anyone any idea what might be causing this? its a brand new unit.
This sounds like a problem with your unit. Mine only does this after I eliminated the low pressure shut-off switches. I don't use the on/off button at all now. I leave it in an on position and turn the shower off with the isolator pull cord.
Looks extremely risky bypassing safety devices and sticking down on and off button.
I understand the concern. The actual thermal cutout switch which is on top of the heating element is still operational. The tape over the button is not sticking it down it's just to remind myself not to use it.
Sounds like he's trying to off himself. I hope he's not a landlord
Just buy mira v instead t80, mira works better with low pressure.
Hi all
So got a shower problem and hope someone can help
1) t70xr kept running cold, like it was the TCO, but then came on warm with
power 1 eco now cold and power 2 warm, not hot.
So half the can is dead or maybe a switch fault in the shower.
2) Replaced the shower with a new t100xr, and it works on cold, eco power 1, but on full power 2 it shuts off all flow after about 5 minutes
What are the symptoms of low current caused by gloss crud or a film on pull switch or shower power block wire ends
So old shower now runs warm on half a ca, new one runs on cold setting and eco
Normally I'd say solenoid, but it's only doing it on max
Maybe lack of current damaged the first one and is causing the new one problem
This is incredibly irresponsible and dangerous and blablabla!
These tritons are rubbish.