I gave making surfboards a try and it is a lot harder than it looks. The stringers are hard to get flat without nicking the foam. The foam dents/tears when you breath on it. The fiberglass is hard to cut straight. It's hard to get the resin on the rails before it turns to gel. The resin burns!!! Sanding laminate is like sanding chewing gum. :) Still trying and getting better, though.
Great content! Learning so much! How is the board gonna be if after laminating the fiberglass, I apply one epoxy coat 2/1 epoxy hardener without sanding it? Functional?
With epoxy, you still need to add a filler coat (same as hot coat) after lamination. Then you can sand and be finished. Gloss coat isn't necessary if you don't want it afterwards.
Question when taping, you taped half way on deck rails and when heading to the tail you blocked off the entire bottom? When you did bottom coat where did you place your tape line, on the unsanded hot coat portion or above the unsanded line?
Hi Tanner, awesome vids, I'm learning a lot. Been successfully doing repairs and looking at re laminating the underside of a board soon. A couple of questions,.. Can you use laminating resin as a hot coat as opposed to sanding resin. And does it matter if you sand through your hot coat, how do you avoid it or know that you won't? Cheers mate keep up the great content!
Sanding resin is just laminating resin with wax added to it so it can be sanded. If you just use laminating resin you won’t be able to sand it. It will get all gummy on your sandpaper. So definitely buy sanding resin or buy the wax solution to add to your laminating resin. If you sand through the hot coat and expose the fiberglass, it won’t be water tight. Sanding by hand is a good way to have better control and avoid burn throughs. But if you get a few, you can just spot patch a little resin to cover it up and re sand. Best of luck!
Tanner precisei fazer um reparo na prancha e no local ficou fosco após dar a lixa d'água... Como posso fazer pra dar brilho alí pra ficar mais parecido com o resto da prancha?
Você precisará lixar progressivamente até 1.000 ou 1.500 lixas e, em seguida, usar um composto de polimento que pode ser encontrado nas lojas de automóveis. Aqui está o que eu uso: www.meguiars.com/automotive/products/meguiars-clear-coat-safe-polishing-compound-g18116-16-oz-liquid Aqui está um vídeo que também pode ajudar: ruclips.net/video/Ukzj_ngsjlo/видео.html. você pode doar manualmente se não tiver uma lixadeira elétrica.
Você está ficando fera nisso meu amigo!!! Deixa eu te fazer uma pergunta... Eu só pego onda de long, Mas tenho muita vontade de conseguir pegar com pranchinha também... Como você me sugere fazer essa transição? Tenho 99kg como seria o melhor tipo e tamanho de prancha?
Haha obrigado! Eu sugiro tentar um “mid length egg”. Vai sentir como uma pranchinha, mas terá mais volume para facilitar a transição. Talvez um tipo como essa: almondsurfboards.com/products/pleasant-pheasant é sempre ajuda conversar com os caras de uma loja de surf para decidir sobre o tamanho. Boa sorte amigo!
Thank you for doing these videos, your boards are beautiful. I'm about to glass my first board, it's a wood-wrapped foam core, redwood and basswood. My question is this, after you sand the hotcoat with 150 grit is it possible to bring it to a high polish at that point, or do you have to put a gloss coat on to achieve a high polish?
You can get a sanded finish look similar to the high performance boards you see in surf shops by increasing your grits up to 400 or 600. But to get the gloss finish you’ll need to do a gloss coat. Good luck, that board sounds awesome.
@@BendheimBoards thank you for answering and sorry for the late reply. I do have two more questions (on behalf of everyone on here, all us strangers, thank you for indulging all the questions). I did a practice lamination and hotcoat run on a scrap board and my cut-lap line is visible through the hot coat. I'm guessing I didn't grind/feather the lap cut well enough to make it invisible? Does that sound like a reasonable assumption? Also, should I go over the lap cut with denatured alcohol, acetone... to clean it up before moving on to the hotcoat? Happy holidays and thanks again.
@@klickstein1 I'"m guessing you are doing a clear lamination with no color so I would suggest doing a cheater coat along the edge of the lap. Basically brush on additional laminating resin right at the cut lap to fill that edge and smooth it out. Then laminate the next side over it. This practice is also used so you can safely sand along your cut lap edge without digging into the foam. Yes, using denatured alcohol is always good practice before the hot coat. Just to make sure you don't have any debris or oil from your hands on there. Good luck!
@@BendheimBoards Thanks again! You're correct, I am doing a clear lamination, actually on a wood board, so it's really important to me that the lap line is invisible. I'll try the cheater coat suggestion along the edge of the lap. Again, thank you so much, I truly appreciate the tips, explanation and input.
Hey there. Been watching your videos for a while and I’ve been working on shaping boards myself. I am working on sanding a longboard I shaped and glassed and I’m having some trouble with scratch marks. It seems that as I increase the grit, I can still see the scratch marks from the lowest grit. Do you have any advice? I tried a few different things but nothing seemed to work yet.
Don’t jump too quick in grits. If it’s too high of a grit compared to the previous one it won’t remove the scratches. Not sure if your doing it by hand but it’s easier to use electric sanders.
@@BendheimBoards thank you! I realized since I posted this question that that's definitely where I was going wrong. Made my grit intervals smaller and now it looks great. Thanks!
How do you clean up the sanding dust to make it clean for pinlines and sealing, if denatured alcohol isn’t an option (they don’t sell it in my state)? Thanks!
@@BendheimBoards thanks, After we sand we plan to use Posco pens for pinlines with spray sealer after. Any idea of the acetone will mess with that? Thanks so much for this series, my son and I are following the whole way and almost done!
@@Boom-oq5yj You can use the acetone to clean before using the posca pen but not after. If you use it after, you'll remove the posca pen marks. Best of luck! Thanks for watching!
Sanding the hot coat smooths out the board for a nice sanded finish. It’s the final stage for a sanded finish but for this board I’m going to do a gloss coat so sanding helps prep the board for that next step.
I just used 150 grit since I’m going to be doing a gloss coat afterwards. If I wasn’t doing a gloss coat I would have sanded progressively up to 400 grit or higher for a sanded finish.
![Center Fin Box Template and Installation - Surfboard Glassing [Part 3 of 7]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9hQvnCv_agQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Center Fin Box Template and Installation - Surfboard Glassing [Part 3 of 7]](/img/tr.png)
![Wet Sanding & Polishing - Surfboard Glassing [Part 7 of 7]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1T1VFkjJyV8/mqdefault.jpg)
I gave making surfboards a try and it is a lot harder than it looks.
The stringers are hard to get flat without nicking the foam.
The foam dents/tears when you breath on it.
The fiberglass is hard to cut straight.
It's hard to get the resin on the rails before it turns to gel.
The resin burns!!!
Sanding laminate is like sanding chewing gum.
:)
Still trying and getting better, though.
Great job mate
Great content! Learning so much! How is the board gonna be if after laminating the fiberglass, I apply one epoxy coat 2/1 epoxy hardener without sanding it? Functional?
With epoxy, you still need to add a filler coat (same as hot coat) after lamination. Then you can sand and be finished. Gloss coat isn't necessary if you don't want it afterwards.
Espetacular !!!
Awesome !!!!
Keep it up bro thanks for sharing 🤙🤙🤙
You bet man!
Tanner Bendheim more video man bcause I want to know how to make surfboard 🤙
How long do you wait between hot coating deck and bottom?
Question when taping, you taped half way on deck rails and when heading to the tail you blocked off the entire bottom?
When you did bottom coat where did you place your tape line, on the unsanded hot coat portion or above the unsanded line?
Damn I need a polisher, been slaving away at a longboard with an orbital palm sander
It’s a big time saver for sure
Hi Tanner, awesome vids, I'm learning a lot. Been successfully doing repairs and looking at re laminating the underside of a board soon. A couple of questions,.. Can you use laminating resin as a hot coat as opposed to sanding resin. And does it matter if you sand through your hot coat, how do you avoid it or know that you won't?
Cheers mate keep up the great content!
Sanding resin is just laminating resin with wax added to it so it can be sanded. If you just use laminating resin you won’t be able to sand it. It will get all gummy on your sandpaper. So definitely buy sanding resin or buy the wax solution to add to your laminating resin. If you sand through the hot coat and expose the fiberglass, it won’t be water tight. Sanding by hand is a good way to have better control and avoid burn throughs. But if you get a few, you can just spot patch a little resin to cover it up and re sand. Best of luck!
@@BendheimBoards does the "regular laminating resin" You're talking about also require hardener for hot coat? So its Resin+Hardener+Wax?
@@becksisler That is correct
Tanner precisei fazer um reparo na prancha e no local ficou fosco após dar a lixa d'água... Como posso fazer pra dar brilho alí pra ficar mais parecido com o resto da prancha?
Você precisará lixar progressivamente até 1.000 ou 1.500 lixas e, em seguida, usar um composto de polimento que pode ser encontrado nas lojas de automóveis. Aqui está o que eu uso: www.meguiars.com/automotive/products/meguiars-clear-coat-safe-polishing-compound-g18116-16-oz-liquid Aqui está um vídeo que também pode ajudar: ruclips.net/video/Ukzj_ngsjlo/видео.html. você pode doar manualmente se não tiver uma lixadeira elétrica.
@@BendheimBoards Valeu!!! Vou fazer!!! Obrigado!
Você está ficando fera nisso meu amigo!!! Deixa eu te fazer uma pergunta... Eu só pego onda de long, Mas tenho muita vontade de conseguir pegar com pranchinha também... Como você me sugere fazer essa transição? Tenho 99kg como seria o melhor tipo e tamanho de prancha?
Haha obrigado! Eu sugiro tentar um “mid length egg”. Vai sentir como uma pranchinha, mas terá mais volume para facilitar a transição. Talvez um tipo como essa: almondsurfboards.com/products/pleasant-pheasant é sempre ajuda conversar com os caras de uma loja de surf para decidir sobre o tamanho. Boa sorte amigo!
@@BendheimBoards Obrigado!!
Hey really cool content what do you use for the logo? Is it rice paper?
Thanks! Yes rice paper. I just print directly onto the rice paper with my printer. A short clip of this shown in part 1 prior to this video.
Cheers for the speedy reply IL have a look at part one
very helpful vid but what is in the little bottle you add to the poly
is it hardener?
Yes it’s a catalyst hardener
Can we see you surfing with your finished board?
Your hot coat almost looks like its pouring on thick do you let it kick a bit before you start pouring?
No I pour as soon as I’m done mixing. Once it starts to kick its game over. However if you need it to kick faster just add more catalyst.
Thank you for doing these videos, your boards are beautiful. I'm about to glass my first board, it's a wood-wrapped foam core, redwood and basswood. My question is this, after you sand the hotcoat with 150 grit is it possible to bring it to a high polish at that point, or do you have to put a gloss coat on to achieve a high polish?
You can get a sanded finish look similar to the high performance boards you see in surf shops by increasing your grits up to 400 or 600. But to get the gloss finish you’ll need to do a gloss coat. Good luck, that board sounds awesome.
@@BendheimBoards thank you for answering and sorry for the late reply. I do have two more questions (on behalf of everyone on here, all us strangers, thank you for indulging all the questions). I did a practice lamination and hotcoat run on a scrap board and my cut-lap line is visible through the hot coat. I'm guessing I didn't grind/feather the lap cut well enough to make it invisible? Does that sound like a reasonable assumption? Also, should I go over the lap cut with denatured alcohol, acetone... to clean it up before moving on to the hotcoat? Happy holidays and thanks again.
@@klickstein1 I'"m guessing you are doing a clear lamination with no color so I would suggest doing a cheater coat along the edge of the lap. Basically brush on additional laminating resin right at the cut lap to fill that edge and smooth it out. Then laminate the next side over it. This practice is also used so you can safely sand along your cut lap edge without digging into the foam. Yes, using denatured alcohol is always good practice before the hot coat. Just to make sure you don't have any debris or oil from your hands on there. Good luck!
@@BendheimBoards Thanks again! You're correct, I am doing a clear lamination, actually on a wood board, so it's really important to me that the lap line is invisible. I'll try the cheater coat suggestion along the edge of the lap. Again, thank you so much, I truly appreciate the tips, explanation and input.
Hey there. Been watching your videos for a while and I’ve been working on shaping boards myself. I am working on sanding a longboard I shaped and glassed and I’m having some trouble with scratch marks. It seems that as I increase the grit, I can still see the scratch marks from the lowest grit. Do you have any advice? I tried a few different things but nothing seemed to work yet.
Don’t jump too quick in grits. If it’s too high of a grit compared to the previous one it won’t remove the scratches. Not sure if your doing it by hand but it’s easier to use electric sanders.
@@BendheimBoards thank you! I realized since I posted this question that that's definitely where I was going wrong. Made my grit intervals smaller and now it looks great. Thanks!
What’s the best grit to sand at first, straight after a hot coat
I usually start with 120 or 150
How do you clean up the sanding dust to make it clean for pinlines and sealing, if denatured alcohol isn’t an option (they don’t sell it in my state)? Thanks!
Then I’d go with acetone if you can’t get it
@@BendheimBoards thanks, After we sand we plan to use Posco pens for pinlines with spray sealer after. Any idea of the acetone will mess with that? Thanks so much for this series, my son and I are following the whole way and almost done!
@@Boom-oq5yj You can use the acetone to clean before using the posca pen but not after. If you use it after, you'll remove the posca pen marks. Best of luck! Thanks for watching!
How long do you let it sit before taking the tape off.
About 30 min for poly resin
What pads are you using for the different steps on your polisher/sander?
8” Flex pads. The blue is a soft pad and the red is a hard pad.
a quick question, why did you sand it down after you put coat on it?
love the vids
Sanding the hot coat smooths out the board for a nice sanded finish. It’s the final stage for a sanded finish but for this board I’m going to do a gloss coat so sanding helps prep the board for that next step.
@@BendheimBoards thanks, what do you think of surfboard kits? Im thinking about bying one with all the tools and 1 blank, to make my own board?
Sebastian Duelund Sørensen never purchased one but I’m sure they are a good way to get started.
What grit of sand paper are you using at the end
150 grit in prep for pin lines then gloss coat 🤙
what type and brand of sander do you use
No brand name. Just called a variable speed polisher
about how long does it take you to make a board like this
It takes me about a month start to finish
@@BendheimBoards and then how much is the board worth when you sell it
@@flexatarianlife9174 I kept this one for myself. I'd probably sell it for somewhere between 600 - 700
@@BendheimBoards but is that caus of the fact that its made from wood?? and how long does it ake too make a styrofoam board
What grit sand paper?
150 grit 👍
Where do you get your rice paper from?
Usually Foam EZ or Shaper Supply
@@BendheimBoards Asian restauran☺lol
Normal paper won’t work and will show through. Rice paper is translucent once the resin covers it and just shows what’s printed.
Hey was wondering what grade of sandpaper do you use after the hot coat ?
I just used 150 grit since I’m going to be doing a gloss coat afterwards. If I wasn’t doing a gloss coat I would have sanded progressively up to 400 grit or higher for a sanded finish.
@@BendheimBoardsiiii I’ll