1997 1998 1999 Ford F150 Heater Core Dash removal tips & tricks
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- This is my 1997 Ford F150 with the Titan 4.6 V8. When I purchased the truck this winter 2014 I bought it with a leaking heater core. Saved me about a $1000
Man this is one of the best videos I have ever seen on a heater core replacement. We all look for not taking too much off to replace something. great job
FYI .... Just cut the heater core lines going through the fire wall and pull the hoses out by the engine and it will give you better excess to the heater hoses to disconnect them from the lines and the fitting in the heater hoses will stay together and then you just push them back onto the new heater core
unfortunately i can't leave links, but find the video of the squirrel from Over the Hedge, saying "here"
I am doing my 1997 f150 now. What did you do to remove the dash from the drivers side panel. I have not been able to figure it out. Great video.
@mogyver69 Mine is a 1998 Ford F150 with the Titan 4.6 V8. Thanks for the really great video especially the part about removing the wiring harness from the right side which all the other videos that I had watched did not show. I had already got my core and blend door replaced before I found your video. I removed the blend actuator by removing 4 screws and then I reamed out the plastic using an 8 inch long 1/2 inch hard copper pipe slotted with a hacksaw to hold a short piece of plumbers abrasive sandcloth.
My only remaining question is where do the tiny spring clips go during reassembly? There are 6 of them and they do not take a screw. Two of them have a flock coating.
Why when building cars & trucks, they make it so hard to replace things that they know will someday need to be replaced ?!
Great video. Just want to clarify, next tot the heater core is the a/c evaporator.
This is the exact reason I haven’t had heat in my F150 for the last 4 years. Luckily I live in central FL where it’s only cold maybe a total of 2 weeks. But starting work at 5am is definitely shitty while driving at 4am with no heat
Omg you have to take off the whole damn dashboard, WTF!!!!!!! Oh fuk no!!!!!!! Boy these damn new trucks are the shits, ill stick with 60s and 70s trucks, junk these new ones I suppose you have disconnect the battery before you fuk with both airbags. Omg😭😭😭😭
I did my 1998 expedition and the only thing that I have not seen mentioned was before lowering steering column a person should unhook transmission cable.when I lowered mine I had not unhooked it and broke it.may be it was just me idk.good video.
It's actually the transmission indicator cable. It's the size of a guitar string. Be careful and don't break it.
Awesome video! Thanks for posting lt...
Thanx for the video, I've been doing this over 30 years and it's still not a job I enjoy, also I was gonna mention that if you cut the old heater core Inlet and outlet tube with a cutting wheel from inside the cab you can pull the hoses through the engine side and remove the hoses easily. Just a little tidbit. Again thank you for the help
Had to have this job don on my 97 F150.
On my 87 F250 heater core was behind the glove box, a 1 hour job.
Ok man how did you get the dash apart to get to this point??????????
Just did my 2000 f150 heater core and wanted to add that lacking a removal tool for the heater hoses, I simply cut the aluminum tubing on the heater core (I uses a ratcheting pex cutter) and pulled the heater hose out where I could get at it better. and a little silicon lube was vital to attach the hoses to the new core
I cut my heater core tubes off with an oscillating cutter tool. That's the fastest and easiest way then I replaced both hoses.
that's too much work for replacing that heater core, i can imagine what a dealer would charge.
I think I saw someone say $800, but could be wrong.
@silverbird58 if I had plans to keep the truck long term I would find a way to modify that with an aftermarket heater kit.
$800-$1200
@@CoDisafishyStill quite a bit, because of the labor.
how long does it take to change it?
Ruben Gonzalez probably 3 fucking years by the looks of it.lmao!
12 minutes if you have two people that have done it 20 times. Lol
I just got a 97 f150 for free, 350k miles, still runs! But when I popped the hood the heater core was installed in the engine bay 🤣
they need to make heater cores more easier to access like bolting it under the hood with a cover
Did it still work right?
Vera 1957 if by “works” you mean it let fluid pass through it then yes 🤣
@@Mega_Mikey lol does the heater work (like it should?)
Vera 1957 now that I put the heater core where it’s supposed to be it does
No. Se. Mira el numero de la herramienta
Holy fk what a nightmare to do that job.
Is there any wires or actuators for 4 wd that could get disconnected while doing this .. my 4 wd won't disengage Not long after this was done ?
I watched this video too late
Thanks for the tip
On a 2001 the Dorman nbr is 902220 Check RockAuto.com - Heater Blend Door !
von twizzy
1 second ago
after this job i did, i got the motor to turn, but would not fire up. any suggestions? missed ground wire? plz help 1997
I didn’t see shit about the dash removal!
What if the dash is way different than yours
What is the name of that Mac tool that you used?
como puedo cambiarle el rrallador De La calefacción a una Ford f250 78
I'm impressed! Want to come to Houston and do mine? I've replaced it 3 times in 7 years and am thinking it might need it again.
Tom Brueggen no thanks, :)
mogyver69 haha, now worries. Maybe I don't have to replace it. My overflow still has plenty of fluid in it, and the truck never shows any sign of overheating. I suppose it could just be condensation from the evaporator since they drain out the same spot, but I never seem to notice water from the evaporator until now. Every other time I had water it was from the heater core. Anyway, I guess if it comes to it, I"ll have to follow up on your video again then. Thanks!
+Tom Brueggen Three times in seven years? Sounds like there is some acid or other chemical in your coolant. I would definitely get the best antifreeze.
Irontite makes good stuff, the only thing I ever used that could get out StopLeak.
+David Parker Ever since the last time when I finally got a full coolant flush it hasn't caused a leak again.
I believe that the reason you are replacing the heater core so often is due to electrolysis in the coolant. That's what causes most rusty corrosion and it settles in the radiator and heater core. Ground the heater core and check all grounding straps. Ford's are bad for that.
What was that Mac tool part number?
Waaaaay more work than necessary
I smell coolant when I turn on the heat and AC, but I don't see any coolant on my floor or in the cabin at all. The rear of my engine looks a little wet. Is it possible that just my heater hoses are leaking and the fan is sucking the smell into my cabin? Or is most likely a leaking heater core? My coolant leak is a very slow leak. Thanks.
If my heater core is leaking inside the cabin, is it possible that the coolant is just leaking out the hvac box drain, onto the ground? I need to check to see if it's only water or water and coolant under my truck. Thanks again.
What do you guys think about putting a UV die into my coolant to see exactly where it's leaking in the rear engine area of my truck. I am hoping it's just the heater hoses leaking and not my heater core. :(
You need to crawl under your truck and check the weep hole its designed to leak out side not on your floor, if its working properly. To answer your other question though. Any coolant leak can be smelled inside your cabin thru your vents. At least I can smell it.You need to pressurize the radiator system and look for the leak. you can buy a kit at Harbor freight.
@@mogyver69 I recently replaced my radiator and upper and lower hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing, the thermostat housing gasket and radiator cap. My radiator had a leak, I thought that was my only coolant leak. Then I discovered the levels still going down, but at a much slower rate. But, I definitely have been smelling coolant and the engine looks wet at the rear of it near the heater hoses under the hood. I need to investigate more in the day light. The pressure tester is a good idea, thanks. Although, I know the system definitely is getting pressurized, when I pull the cap off there is a definite pressure release from the overflow cap. But, I need to test it properly. I will check out the kit at harbor freight. I was thinking of trying the UV dye too see if any areas near the heater hoses and the hoses that go to the back of my manifold are leaking. It's hard to see back there. But, those hoses were never changed when I did the radiator, so I may need to do them too. I heard the heater hoses can wear out at the quick disconnect spots. I'll have to check for that weep hole too. Thanks for the advice. You Rock!
Is that weep hole for the HVAC box easy to find under the truck? I am going to look later today. Is there a hose too, or literally just a drain hole. Thanks for the help.
Do you have a video of checking the heater Vale on a 1997 Ford F-150
Valve?
Where do the harness connect
That an evaporator
I'm not sure what your question is. I'm working on the heater core but yes you should be able to see The Evaporator while its apart to.
You corrected yourself and called it a condenser
oh, Opps.
Hello I have a question can you just eliminate the core I live in a desert area and never use the heater can I just pull the core and use a hose?
+Rene Villarreal - Cut the hoses that go to the heater core from inside the engine compartment and add a connector between the hoses at the engine. This will bye pass the heater core. This will not hurt anything you just wont have heat inside your vehicle. You also will not have a defrost for your windows thru the vent.
+mogyver69 ok thanks alot for the info!
mogyver69 I did this when I was living in south Florida now I'm moving to Colorado Rockies , last thing my girl said was I was going to regret it , I laughed and drank another beer and cut the fucking hoses now I'm kicking my self in the ass ready to set this shit on fire and call it a day
@@FATMANCS2 Haha what was the point? Was it leaking or something?
evaporator
I just did the replacement from my 2006 f150 and it was the worst thing to do. There wast the dashboard, and the steel metal part of the dashboard just to get to the heater core. It was a 9 hour work...
why doesn't the shaft from the acuatator fit right intonthe blend door
Because the blend door is an aftermarket item that has been strengthened and better than the OEM part that's notoriously prone to breaking.
need more info
Dude almost said Chevrolet. How could you?
Actually I hate fords. I am a chevy guy. Only reason I owned this truck was because it was cheap. I currently own a chevy now. My first car I ever owned was a 69 chevelle and I will always choose a chevy over a ford. Found on road dead.Thats what ford stands for. Good thing im a mechanic so I can fix them.