I’d rec finding an old box style.. these are late 80s thru the 90s so you can find them super cheap. But you of course if you want brand new you can def do that with the new series Polaroid has put out
Thanks for this, helps me get my head around it… I have a question, to which I guess the answer is “try it and find out” 😂 I’m wondering if it’s possible to cut the image out? Like if there’s an object in the image that I want to isolate… if you’ve tried this or have thoughts I’d love to know…
so I haven't tried cutting the image - but I think you've got the idea - probably a try and see thing. What I would do though is shoot a test image though before you try it on an image you like. BUT... I would think it would be similiar to the streps from the video, you'll just have to be careful to separate the layers
So, Pat: This differs a bit -- the initial cutting, mostly -- from hot, then cold water methods I've seen with original (now expired) peel-apart Polaroid and Fuji film prints. I understand the currently available new films are different chemically. Does the method you illustrate here work with newly produced SX 70 and Series 600 film? Does the camera matter -- i.e. new or vintage -- as long as it uses the proper film? Thank you for this tutorial.
Thanks for the question! Now don’t hold me as an expert, but it should in theory work with any of the film options from Polaroid (and possibly Instax as well), bc really it’s just about spreading the layers and sticking the exposed image to paper.. I thought warm water helped the most bc it softened the material better but in also seen people start in hot and move to cold.. could be one to experiment with 🤓
Thanks! I bought a refurbished NOW camera (shoots both I-film and 600) so I could experiment fairly inexpensively, and will start today with some prints I shot in the last couple of days. Appreciate your generosity in sharing your experience! @@patcormick
Thank you for this video! Do you know, if I put an image to the wall, if it will fade? I hope/think the image will be saved better because the emulsion is gone... Do you have any experience with this?
Ya know… I’m not sure? But I can say the image in this photo hasn’t really deteriorated since. I’d think if kept like most photos it shouldn’t fade to bad. Of course kept in a sunny spot in the house over time it definitely would I would think
Lifts I completed 4-5 years ago still look great with no fading. I used an acid free watercolour art paper. My Polaroids in their original form fade a lot.
How recent is your Polaroid you’re trying to cut from? If it’s newer the emulsion chemicals will not have dried as much as one that has been sitting for a few hours or more
Good question! I’d say maybe a half hour or so… the longest part is getting the image and the screen separated. But warm water helps and a constant but gentle sweeping motion of water can speed it up a bit.. just don’t want to rush or it’ll rip
....played with this decades age, when pack film was still alive...i remember reading it was not so viable doing it with sx70 film but now i guess so...my question is: is it possible with Instax films?
Another question, Pat: I'm having trouble with the edges of the emulsion curling under after it's removed, tightly enough that it's hard to uncurl when I try to place it on the paper. I am using I film, not 600. Could it be that? Water temperature? Any thoughts?
I don’t think the film stock would matter much.. the best tip I have for this is to adjust the image as best as you can with the image in the paper while it’s submerged… once’s it’s out it becomes tacky and won’t move easily and is more prone to tearing… so try and do the shimmy motion I tried in the video with your edges and see how that works
OK. I'm just starting to shoot color -- don't like the prints as much as B/W -- and have not attempted any color lifts yet. Got some pleasing results with B/W though, thanks considerably to you. @@patcormick
I’m glad you gave it a shot! That stinks it didn’t work for the Instax stuff.. I’m not sure why it didn’t.. unless there is a different layer or something inside the frame when it comes to Instax. As for Polaroid, you can use any of them as far as I know. For this one I used 600 speed film I believe, but you could use the I-type (which would be the same film frame just in a cartridge without a battery for the camera) or SX70. I haven’t tried the small frames for the newer little guy by Polaroid but I would think it would work the same as well. If you test any of these I’d love to hear the results!
I don't recall where -- sorry -- but I saw one source online who attempted this with Instax, with some success. But the film is different from Polaroid 600 or I-film, and the process was different and more complicated. I've seen other sources that simply say Instax film can't be used for lifts.
This is a technique called a polaroid emulsion lift. When it's done using a black and white print, the white areas are transparent.
Cool! Just learned about this technique. Didn’t know it was just water in the tray! Excited to try this 🎉
It’s super easy and a really cool way to play with your instant film!
Best tutorial very underrated
Huge thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
thank you, great video
What cameras and film do you recommend for someone who’s just jumping into this? Always wanted to try this. Thank you for sharing this process.
I’d rec finding an old box style.. these are late 80s thru the 90s so you can find them super cheap. But you of course if you want brand new you can def do that with the new series Polaroid has put out
Excellent tutorial
Thanks for this, helps me get my head around it… I have a question, to which I guess the answer is “try it and find out” 😂 I’m wondering if it’s possible to cut the image out? Like if there’s an object in the image that I want to isolate… if you’ve tried this or have thoughts I’d love to know…
so I haven't tried cutting the image - but I think you've got the idea - probably a try and see thing. What I would do though is shoot a test image though before you try it on an image you like. BUT... I would think it would be similiar to the streps from the video, you'll just have to be careful to separate the layers
So, Pat: This differs a bit -- the initial cutting, mostly -- from hot, then cold water methods I've seen with original (now expired) peel-apart Polaroid and Fuji film prints. I understand the currently available new films are different chemically. Does the method you illustrate here work with newly produced SX 70 and Series 600 film? Does the camera matter -- i.e. new or vintage -- as long as it uses the proper film? Thank you for this tutorial.
Thanks for the question! Now don’t hold me as an expert, but it should in theory work with any of the film options from Polaroid (and possibly Instax as well), bc really it’s just about spreading the layers and sticking the exposed image to paper.. I thought warm water helped the most bc it softened the material better but in also seen people start in hot and move to cold.. could be one to experiment with 🤓
Thanks! I bought a refurbished NOW camera (shoots both I-film and 600) so I could experiment fairly inexpensively, and will start today with some prints I shot in the last couple of days. Appreciate your generosity in sharing your experience! @@patcormick
@@zenofhen3255 Hi! I'm exploring this technique to teach to high schoolers. Did you have success with the new I-film and 600?
Thank you for this video! Do you know, if I put an image to the wall, if it will fade? I hope/think the image will be saved better because the emulsion is gone... Do you have any experience with this?
Ya know… I’m not sure? But I can say the image in this photo hasn’t really deteriorated since. I’d think if kept like most photos it shouldn’t fade to bad. Of course kept in a sunny spot in the house over time it definitely would I would think
Thanks for getting back so quickly 🙏🏻 I will see what happens 🙃
Lifts I completed 4-5 years ago still look great with no fading. I used an acid free watercolour art paper. My Polaroids in their original form fade a lot.
Thanks . Do you need to varnish it to protect it after ?
I’m not sure you have to, but if you’d want a gloss coat for longevity, I could see that being totally fine
Great video! Help me alot!
Do you had any problems, having some gray sticky gel on the emultion? Thanks
How recent is your Polaroid you’re trying to cut from? If it’s newer the emulsion chemicals will not have dried as much as one that has been sitting for a few hours or more
I did two, one fresh 5h young and the second was few weeks old. Can too hot water be the problem?
@@kjay9338 hmm maybe - I know when I do it I make it warm enough that the plastic will peel but not so hot I can't put my hands in the water..
Excellent instruction 1/23/2024 12:34
How long did this process take from start to finish?
Good question! I’d say maybe a half hour or so… the longest part is getting the image and the screen separated. But warm water helps and a constant but gentle sweeping motion of water can speed it up a bit.. just don’t want to rush or it’ll rip
....played with this decades age, when pack film was still alive...i remember reading it was not so viable doing it with sx70 film but now i guess so...my question is: is it possible with Instax films?
Maybe? If Instax is built like a layer cake like Polaroid I don’t see why not 👍🏼
Another question, Pat: I'm having trouble with the edges of the emulsion curling under after it's removed, tightly enough that it's hard to uncurl when I try to place it on the paper. I am using I film, not 600. Could it be that? Water temperature? Any thoughts?
I don’t think the film stock would matter much.. the best tip I have for this is to adjust the image as best as you can with the image in the paper while it’s submerged… once’s it’s out it becomes tacky and won’t move easily and is more prone to tearing… so try and do the shimmy motion I tried in the video with your edges and see how that works
OK. I'm just starting to shoot color -- don't like the prints as much as B/W -- and have not attempted any color lifts yet. Got some pleasing results with B/W though, thanks considerably to you. @@patcormick
I tried this with Fuji's Polaroid film, but it didn't work at all. I'm going to try Polaroid's Polaroid film. What brand of Polaroid film do you use?
I’m glad you gave it a shot! That stinks it didn’t work for the Instax stuff.. I’m not sure why it didn’t.. unless there is a different layer or something inside the frame when it comes to Instax. As for Polaroid, you can use any of them as far as I know. For this one I used 600 speed film I believe, but you could use the I-type (which would be the same film frame just in a cartridge without a battery for the camera) or SX70. I haven’t tried the small frames for the newer little guy by Polaroid but I would think it would work the same as well. If you test any of these I’d love to hear the results!
I don't recall where -- sorry -- but I saw one source online who attempted this with Instax, with some success. But the film is different from Polaroid 600 or I-film, and the process was different and more complicated. I've seen other sources that simply say Instax film can't be used for lifts.
Why mine come off when it gets dried?
Whatcha mean?