Brother I have the 2001 power booster with your wilwood caliper set up 1 inch master and all I can say Jezz, they are spot on!!!! I mean like air brakes ... very touchy and I love them , 14 loyal customers and never a problem ...
1.) For vacuum pumping: Do you just crack the cylinder open and pump the fluid out? 2.) Is the diagnostic port ABS cycling method for the NB the same as the late NA?
@abdullahagcayazi7581 To vacuum bleed the brake system, you'll hook up the vacuum line from the vacuum bleeder tool to the bleeder on each caliper, then crack the bleeder loose. Then, you'll pump the tool up to pull fluid and air through the system until you stop seeing bubbles coming out of the caliper bleeder. Once you stop seeing bubbles, close that bleeder and disconnect the vacuum line and move on to the next caliper. Regarding the ABS cycling, are you referring to the procedure to get the ABS pump to cycle?
Yes! (at least in my case) I am talking about the method for cycling the ABS pump in a late NA 😓 Will try driving around and hitting the brakes hard to activate the ABS and then bleed again.
@@ReydioTube The Mazda Factory service manual doesn't have any special bleeding procedure for the ABS module. You'll just bleed as normal. That said, if you need to test the function of your ABS system, the cycling procedure is effectively the same.
Is there a recommended practice when replacing all of your brake lines with braided lines? I figured that one should replace the farthest line first then bleed that wheel. Then replace the next one in line and bleed again until you get around to the front left wheel (NA8). Seemed like that would be better than replacing all the lines at once then bleeding the whole system. Thoughts?
I've done of bunch of lines, you are going to have a buttload of air no matter how you do it. I have just done them all at the same time then bleed as talked about here. You can do it either way.
The way to minimize the amount of air in the system is to leave the bleed screw open on the caliper while you install the new lines. That allows the system to "self bleed" as you connect everything. It's even better if you work your way out - attach the braided line to the hard line, then to the caliper, then close the bleed screw. We always change all the lines then bleed the whole system. Chances are you're going to be doing a full flush at the same time anyhow.
@@FlyinMiataVideo That self bleed technique makes sense. I will be doing a full flush and was just trying to minimize sucking more air into the system. Thanks!
Great video! I have two questions. First, do you recommend putting caps on the nipples to keep them clean? And secondly, what's the proper procedure for disposing of old brake fluid?
The bleed caps do help to keep debris out but if you bleed your brakes frequently and drive in a fairly clean environment, you might not need them. They do seem to be the first thing to go missing anytime you get near your brake system. 😁 We treat brake fluid the same as engine oil and recycle it. Most auto parts stores will allow a certain amount per day.
you probably wont spot this comment or be able to reply. But my friends ND has had terrible pedal feel for a year or so now, really soft and mushy. I couldn't really see where the problem was, but the caliper seals were in pretty bad shape. So I did a full brembo caliper refurb (it's an ND30), all new seals, and pulled new fluid through it with the manual foot method! It still feels pretty pants, its a little better, but still not as good as it was when the car was new. Lots of rumours that ABS pump causes issues and needs to be triggered, or that a passive bleed isn't enough, and you need to get a suction system on the calipers to pull the fluid through? Appreciate any suggestions, as we've now refurbed all calipers, replaced all pads and discs, and pulled about two bottles of castrol SRF through the system!
When installing the Wilwood 6 piston calipers do I need to put any lubricant gel grease on the back of the brake pads for anti vibration? If I change the brake hoses can I do a gravity bleed? Finally if doing a gravity bleed can I still connect the clear tube to the nipple to catch any fluid so it does not go all over the caliper and floor? Thx. 🙏
Proper brake pad grease, often referred to as "Brake Quiet" isn't a bad idea, but usually not needed. A gravity bleed is fine, but don't let your master cylinder run dry. You can absolutely still connect a hose to the bleed nipple when doing a gravity bleed.
Great video! I'm currently doing a full caliper replacement to Brembo fronts and red calipers in the rear. I noticed in the shop manual that, if you replace rear calipers, you need to do an extra air bleed procedure in the rear that involves screwing the rear caliper piston in and out, pumping the brake pedal a few times, pulling the parking brake a few times, and repeating this process a few times. My question is, should I still do a full brake bleed procedure first (right rear, left rear, right front, left front), THEN do extra the rear caliper air bleed procedure? Or, can I just first follow the whole rear caliper air bleeding procedure first, THEN just do the remaining front calipers in the normal fashion? Thanks!
@@FlyinMiataVideo Haha no worries. It only seems to apply if you're replacing the whole rear calipers and is not needed for just doing a full flush. Just an update for future readers, I just finished the brake job the other day and I DID do the full brake bleed procedure first and THEN redid the bleeding for the rear calipers with the extra steps (involves pumping the pistons). There was a considerable amount of extra air bubbles when doing the piston pumping so I highly recommend doing these steps if you're installing new rear calipers. Cheers!
After installing my wilwood calipers up front my left wheel locks up far quicker than the right one. Would you recommend a pressure bleeding system to push as much air out of the system maybe? Or would you think it's something else like corner balance? Thanks!
You always want to squeeze as much air as possible out of your brake system. Bubbles are bad! Corner balancing may also play a part in this when you're really pushing it, but a proper brake bleed is much more important.
IMPORATANT: Because the brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder draw from the same reservoir, and the pickup for the clutch is up near the top of the reservoir, you gotta pay attention. Be careful letting the fluid level drop below this level as you can draw air into the clutch lines.
You won't draw air into the clutch master cylinder unless the clutch pedal is depressed or the bleed screw is opened while the pickup is exposed. Fluid has to be moving before you can get air in. That's actually the first step described in doing a full flush, get all the fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with fresh before you start the bleeding process. It won't add any air to the system.
It varies depending on the bleeder screw. Some calipers have bigger screws on them and thus need a bigger hose. For Miata/Wilwood calipers, you want a 4mm or 5/32" hose. Flyin' Miata includes appropriate hose with some of our brake kits.
When bleeding and pumping the brake pedal does ignition need to be on? If I only change front calipers, brakes and brake lines on the front do I only bleed front or also back? On an ND Miata to do a full brake fluid change takes how much new brake fluid? Thanks!!! Newbie here.
Ignition does not need to be on. We recommend doing all four corners as it’s just good to have fresh fluid. It’ll take about a liter to do a full change.
Does the clutch system share the same fluid reservoir as the brake system? Wanting to know if it's best practice to flush that out as well during brake bleed.
Depends on the year of the car. The clutch fluid doesn't see the same temperatures the brake fluid does, so it's less critical and is usually on a much longer replacement schedule.
I have the Willwoods on my ND on all four corners like you have on your track car. If I do a gravity flush, do I open the front and back bleeders if doing all 4 at one time?
If you mean the inner and outer, yes. Basically, any bleeder that is open will bleed. The more you have open, the faster the reservoir will empty out so you'll have to pay attention. I usually only do one corner at a time because I'm not in that much of a hurry.
Any video’s on the rear Wilwoods install out there? I will be installing the one’s I ordered from you in a couple of weeks and doing the full bleed then. Parking brake has me a bit nervous, honestly.
Thanks for this video! Never heard about gravity bleeding before, definitely going to try it next time, my helper has to grow for about 12/13years before he'll reach the pedals. Question for Keith, when you do a gravity bleed to do you use a tube and bottle on the nipple? Or just let it come straight out the nipple and catch it ina bucket or something? If so whats the ressoning? Ty!
@@aizal1468 I was worried that I might get air into the abs, but the abs system seems to be working okay right now. I bench bled the master cylinder as instructed and kept filling the reservoir while bleeding each brake.
@@dcox399 I stupidly took out the hardlines for my abs when fiddling around the back of the block and now I have no brake pressure- suspecting it's because I either got air into the abs or the Master Cylinder, but if bleeding out the MC and then the calipers at each wheel will fix it then I'm hoping.
I replaced rubber lines with stainless braided ones. I replaced the calipers rotors pads and bled the system. However, when I push the pedal to break, it feels like it’s really soft right up until the end and then it gets firm and the car stops fine. Does the pedal need to be adjusted or am I missing something else? 1992 na6
The earlier cars have a proportioning valve that limits rear line pressure above a certain level - far higher than the pressure you get while bleeding. Newer cars use electronic brake distribution.
I take my time doing this: open the line and let gravity do its work. Every 20 minutes level up the reservoir. Ok, it takes many hours, but in the meantime can do the gardening.
Hey, I know your comment is old but I had a couple questions about your gravity brake bleed. First, does the car need to have accessories on or can it be completely turned off when bleeding? Second, when doing a gravity bleed does it just drip fluid down the side of the caliper and do you have a container underneath on the ground to catch the dripping fluid? Does it cause a mess on the calipers? Finally, do you do this on all wheels at once or one line at a time? Thank you
@@gigi9467 This is the car that did the 15 hr turbo torture test at Laguna Seca. As long as you have the proper pads, this set-up should be great for a part time track car. Feel free to reach out to our support team directly if you need first hand impressions or have any other specific questions we can help with!
Hey no disrespect but when you open the blender and fluid is in the line why don't you just keep pumping the brake pedal maybe 10 or 15 times then hold the pedal down close the blender screw fill the master cylinder repeat if necessary, it's way faster than pump bleed and close !! Been doing it for years
That's a good way to move a lot of fluid in a hurry and we probably should have mentioned it. It's useful when doing a flush. The method here has a better chance of getting those last couple of little air bubbles out, so we'd recommend finishing with it.
Perfect timing! I was going to do this next week. Good to see how the pros do it.
Hope we could help! :)
@@FlyinMiataVideo btw, I just bought some sway bars and steel brake lines from y'all. Your videos have already helped a ton.
@@luissantiago847 Thank you - We appreciate it! Feel free to suggest a topic if there is a specific video you'd like to see! :)
Likewise. Have a couple of bottles of Motul in my online cart.
You guys are great thank you for all you do for the community in general especially all of your videos.
Thank you for watching! :)
Brother I have the 2001 power booster with your wilwood caliper set up 1 inch master and all I can say Jezz, they are spot on!!!! I mean like air brakes ... very touchy and I love them , 14 loyal customers and never a problem ...
awesomness!!!!
Covered all the areas thanks for being a good teacher
Can you do a video activating the abs on an NA Miata?
Nice job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks, Keith!
The forums thank you. Lol 😅
1.) For vacuum pumping: Do you just crack the cylinder open and pump the fluid out?
2.) Is the diagnostic port ABS cycling method for the NB the same as the late NA?
@abdullahagcayazi7581 To vacuum bleed the brake system, you'll hook up the vacuum line from the vacuum bleeder tool to the bleeder on each caliper, then crack the bleeder loose. Then, you'll pump the tool up to pull fluid and air through the system until you stop seeing bubbles coming out of the caliper bleeder. Once you stop seeing bubbles, close that bleeder and disconnect the vacuum line and move on to the next caliper. Regarding the ABS cycling, are you referring to the procedure to get the ABS pump to cycle?
Yes! (at least in my case) I am talking about the method for cycling the ABS pump in a late NA 😓
Will try driving around and hitting the brakes hard to activate the ABS and then bleed again.
@@ReydioTube The Mazda Factory service manual doesn't have any special bleeding procedure for the ABS module. You'll just bleed as normal.
That said, if you need to test the function of your ABS system, the cycling procedure is effectively the same.
Thanks for another Great video!
Glad you like them! :)
Thank You.
You're welcome! :)
Is there a recommended practice when replacing all of your brake lines with braided lines? I figured that one should replace the farthest line first then bleed that wheel. Then replace the next one in line and bleed again until you get around to the front left wheel (NA8). Seemed like that would be better than replacing all the lines at once then bleeding the whole system. Thoughts?
I've done of bunch of lines, you are going to have a buttload of air no matter how you do it. I have just done them all at the same time then bleed as talked about here. You can do it either way.
The way to minimize the amount of air in the system is to leave the bleed screw open on the caliper while you install the new lines. That allows the system to "self bleed" as you connect everything. It's even better if you work your way out - attach the braided line to the hard line, then to the caliper, then close the bleed screw.
We always change all the lines then bleed the whole system. Chances are you're going to be doing a full flush at the same time anyhow.
@@FlyinMiataVideo That self bleed technique makes sense. I will be doing a full flush and was just trying to minimize sucking more air into the system. Thanks!
Great video! I have two questions. First, do you recommend putting caps on the nipples to keep them clean? And secondly, what's the proper procedure for disposing of old brake fluid?
The bleed caps do help to keep debris out but if you bleed your brakes frequently and drive in a fairly clean environment, you might not need them. They do seem to be the first thing to go missing anytime you get near your brake system. 😁 We treat brake fluid the same as engine oil and recycle it. Most auto parts stores will allow a certain amount per day.
Keith, how far are you cracking open the bleed screw when just allowing it to drain? Quarter turn half turn?
Thanks for the video.
It’s a less than a quarter turn. If you’ve got someone holding pressure, it’s usually quite clear when you’ve opened it far enough.
you probably wont spot this comment or be able to reply. But my friends ND has had terrible pedal feel for a year or so now, really soft and mushy. I couldn't really see where the problem was, but the caliper seals were in pretty bad shape. So I did a full brembo caliper refurb (it's an ND30), all new seals, and pulled new fluid through it with the manual foot method!
It still feels pretty pants, its a little better, but still not as good as it was when the car was new. Lots of rumours that ABS pump causes issues and needs to be triggered, or that a passive bleed isn't enough, and you need to get a suction system on the calipers to pull the fluid through?
Appreciate any suggestions, as we've now refurbed all calipers, replaced all pads and discs, and pulled about two bottles of castrol SRF through the system!
It's not unusual to have to activate the ABS in order to get bubbles out of the pump - that's true of any car with ABS.
When installing the Wilwood 6 piston calipers do I need to put any lubricant gel grease on the back of the brake pads for anti vibration? If I change the brake hoses can I do a gravity bleed? Finally if doing a gravity bleed can I still connect the clear tube to the nipple to catch any fluid so it does not go all over the caliper and floor? Thx. 🙏
Proper brake pad grease, often referred to as "Brake Quiet" isn't a bad idea, but usually not needed.
A gravity bleed is fine, but don't let your master cylinder run dry.
You can absolutely still connect a hose to the bleed nipple when doing a gravity bleed.
Great video! I'm currently doing a full caliper replacement to Brembo fronts and red calipers in the rear. I noticed in the shop manual that, if you replace rear calipers, you need to do an extra air bleed procedure in the rear that involves screwing the rear caliper piston in and out, pumping the brake pedal a few times, pulling the parking brake a few times, and repeating this process a few times.
My question is, should I still do a full brake bleed procedure first (right rear, left rear, right front, left front), THEN do extra the rear caliper air bleed procedure? Or, can I just first follow the whole rear caliper air bleeding procedure first, THEN just do the remaining front calipers in the normal fashion? Thanks!
Thanks for the added info. I guess I'm guilty of not reading that section😁
@@FlyinMiataVideo Haha no worries. It only seems to apply if you're replacing the whole rear calipers and is not needed for just doing a full flush.
Just an update for future readers, I just finished the brake job the other day and I DID do the full brake bleed procedure first and THEN redid the bleeding for the rear calipers with the extra steps (involves pumping the pistons).
There was a considerable amount of extra air bubbles when doing the piston pumping so I highly recommend doing these steps if you're installing new rear calipers. Cheers!
After installing my wilwood calipers up front my left wheel locks up far quicker than the right one. Would you recommend a pressure bleeding system to push as much air out of the system maybe? Or would you think it's something else like corner balance?
Thanks!
You always want to squeeze as much air as possible out of your brake system. Bubbles are bad!
Corner balancing may also play a part in this when you're really pushing it, but a proper brake bleed is much more important.
@@FlyinMiataVideo 😂 thanks..
IMPORATANT: Because the brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder draw from the same reservoir, and the pickup for the clutch is up near the top of the reservoir, you gotta pay attention. Be careful letting the fluid level drop below this level as you can draw air into the clutch lines.
You won't draw air into the clutch master cylinder unless the clutch pedal is depressed or the bleed screw is opened while the pickup is exposed. Fluid has to be moving before you can get air in.
That's actually the first step described in doing a full flush, get all the fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with fresh before you start the bleeding process. It won't add any air to the system.
What size ID is the best to use for that clear hose?
It varies depending on the bleeder screw. Some calipers have bigger screws on them and thus need a bigger hose. For Miata/Wilwood calipers, you want a 4mm or 5/32" hose. Flyin' Miata includes appropriate hose with some of our brake kits.
When bleeding and pumping the brake pedal does ignition need to be on? If I only change front calipers, brakes and brake lines on the front do I only bleed front or also back? On an ND Miata to do a full brake fluid change takes how much new brake fluid? Thanks!!! Newbie here.
Ignition does not need to be on. We recommend doing all four corners as it’s just good to have fresh fluid. It’ll take about a liter to do a full change.
Thank you!!! Your videos and products are great!
Does the clutch system share the same fluid reservoir as the brake system? Wanting to know if it's best practice to flush that out as well during brake bleed.
Depends on the year of the car. The clutch fluid doesn't see the same temperatures the brake fluid does, so it's less critical and is usually on a much longer replacement schedule.
Can you do "Gravity" bleed on all calipers with "pieces"of hose dripping in containers in all 4 corners? (solo job)
Yep. It'll take a while but there's nothing wrong with doing it that way.
I have the Willwoods on my ND on all four corners like you have on your track car. If I do a gravity flush, do I open the front and back bleeders if doing all 4 at one time?
If you mean the inner and outer, yes. Basically, any bleeder that is open will bleed. The more you have open, the faster the reservoir will empty out so you'll have to pay attention. I usually only do one corner at a time because I'm not in that much of a hurry.
Any video’s on the rear Wilwoods install out there? I will be installing the one’s I ordered from you in a couple of weeks and doing the full bleed then. Parking brake has me a bit nervous, honestly.
Thanks for this video! Never heard about gravity bleeding before, definitely going to try it next time, my helper has to grow for about 12/13years before he'll reach the pedals. Question for Keith, when you do a gravity bleed to do you use a tube and bottle on the nipple? Or just let it come straight out the nipple and catch it ina bucket or something? If so whats the ressoning? Ty!
You can use a tube and bottle or you can just let it drool all over the caliper. The latter is messier but quick.
@FlyinMiataVideo ah OK thanks very much!
Same bleeding order with ABS? Can you video the process for bleeding the ABS if it gets air in it?
hey did you figure out the answer for this question, I'm having the same problem right now.
@@aizal1468 I was worried that I might get air into the abs, but the abs system seems to be working okay right now. I bench bled the master cylinder as instructed and kept filling the reservoir while bleeding each brake.
@@dcox399 I stupidly took out the hardlines for my abs when fiddling around the back of the block and now I have no brake pressure- suspecting it's because I either got air into the abs or the Master Cylinder, but if bleeding out the MC and then the calipers at each wheel will fix it then I'm
hoping.
I replaced rubber lines with stainless braided ones. I replaced the calipers rotors pads and bled the system. However, when I push the pedal to break, it feels like it’s really soft right up until the end and then it gets firm and the car stops fine. Does the pedal need to be adjusted or am I missing something else?
1992 na6
How did the pedal feel before you did the work?
Got an nb 2001 with abs, no specially one have to think about then ?
Correct! Nothing special is required for your setup.
I'm pretty sure the proportioning valve dictates that more fluid flows to the front than rear calipers.
The earlier cars have a proportioning valve that limits rear line pressure above a certain level - far higher than the pressure you get while bleeding. Newer cars use electronic brake distribution.
@@FlyinMiataVideo I only meant it as a possible explanation for Keith's comment about not knowing why the front calipers move more fluid.
do you do this before or after changing brakes?????
After.
I take my time doing this: open the line and let gravity do its work. Every 20 minutes level up the reservoir. Ok, it takes many hours, but in the meantime can do the gardening.
Hey, I know your comment is old but I had a couple questions about your gravity brake bleed. First, does the car need to have accessories on or can it be completely turned off when bleeding? Second, when doing a gravity bleed does it just drip fluid down the side of the caliper and do you have a container underneath on the ground to catch the dripping fluid? Does it cause a mess on the calipers? Finally, do you do this on all wheels at once or one line at a time? Thank you
PS... as per the adapters and as per wilwood 12-13 lbs of tightening on them .....
Is that 12.19 or 12.88 wilwood brake kit??
The ND in the video features our 12.19 BBK
www.flyinmiata.com/ND/nd-bbk.html
@@FlyinMiataVideo this is about how much u. Need for a non v8 nd that goes to the track 6-8 times a year right?
@@gigi9467 This is the car that did the 15 hr turbo torture test at Laguna Seca. As long as you have the proper pads, this set-up should be great for a part time track car. Feel free to reach out to our support team directly if you need first hand impressions or have any other specific questions we can help with!
@@FlyinMiataVideo awesome thanx
I was always taught the inside bleeder then the outside.
On Wilwood calipers with two bleeders, this is the correct way to do it.
If you forget and let your master cyl run dry you will be sad :’D
yeah, this...ask me how i know
Well if you lift the hose up and let it drain into the bottle, you wont make a mess lol.
Hey no disrespect but when you open the blender and fluid is in the line why don't you just keep pumping the brake pedal maybe 10 or 15 times then hold the pedal down close the blender screw fill the master cylinder repeat if necessary, it's way faster than pump bleed and close !! Been doing it for years
That's a good way to move a lot of fluid in a hurry and we probably should have mentioned it. It's useful when doing a flush. The method here has a better chance of getting those last couple of little air bubbles out, so we'd recommend finishing with it.
use water to clean up spilled brake fluid. way more effective than brake cleaner
Keith your huge mannnnnn!!! what you doing ? shirt hardly fits ...creatine !