BETTER THAN GENESIS for $50! Superdetailing an HO Santa Fe locomotive
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- You don't need to spend hundreds of dollars to have an incredible model - all it takes is finding the right base locomotive and some detail parts.
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If you enjoyed this kitbash, I think you'll love the custom steam engine I just completed in this video, check it out! ruclips.net/video/LuKLqzfmCgs/видео.html
I still can't believe how nicely this came out, and I am so happy that my old F7 has found a new life on a great layout!
thank you for making this video possible
It’s worth $300 for a genesis model to not have to through all this BS.
@@Reading_Modeler ok rowen
@@ACL_modeler ok carlos replying to my year old comment
@@Reading_Modelerok reading modeler
Hi, I live in the UK and my Layout is a typical 1970s layout. However I recently came across some old Triang American style locos and cars I had tucked away years ago. These models (which because of their age are more like toys) I thought it would be nice to do something with them. The locos are loosely based on the locomotive in your video so it has given me quite a bit of inspiration so my plan is to make them look more like models and less like toys. I love to do this kind of renovation work so thanks for your video. It has helped me a lot.
You're VERY welcome! This is exactly the reason why I did this video, in the hope that someone like yourself would dust off old, forgotten models and bring them back to life. LMK how it goes.
Nice to see an old passenger f- unit reused in freight service. Thank you ! Great job !
One of the best detailing videos I've ever on RUclips, especially for us who love Santa Fe diesels.
I always forget how HUGE HO is. Looks so nicely easy to work on.
I must play with a scale man, it feels big till u hold something scale in O or G. I tried some g and can ever look at ho the same. Still my main scale though
You Have Done A Great kitbash ! I Have Done Several F7's The Same Way For AT&SF Just Before The CF7's And Also SP ! And WP ! All n All , Kitbashing Is Fun ! Keep Up The Good Work ! 😎🦊
Thank you so much! I'm so pleased to hear you enjoy kitbashing as well, it's one of the best parts of the hobby by far.
@@InterurbanEra 10-4 Good Buddy ! 👍 😎🦊
Incredible job with that airbrush. I can never get mine to work.
You inspired me to create my own out of junk parts! I think I just found my new favorite thing to do! Well Done too, this super underrated. You deserve way more attention.
Why thank you! Well, please share/spread the videos so people see them. It's really hard to get organic growth on YT and other platforms.
What does your F unit look like?
@@InterurbanEra I made it in a Milwaukee road paint scheme
I watched this while detailing a life like engine, it’s an impressive job that you did, keep it up!
To young modelers just starting out, everything you see in this video is good advice since there’s many ways to achieve the end result. It’s wise to learn your skills on low cost models as mentioned here since damaging an expensive one will haunt you and make you nervous about doing work like this again. I found my air compressor for my airbrush and a cordless dremel tool at a local pawn shop so hunt around for good deals when gathering more tools.
The engine turned out great! Inspiring. Loved seeing these on the rails as a kid. Those F units were so cool!
It's always nice to see people give old locomotives a treatment into something even better. What kind of DCC decoder is fitted onto this model? IMO adding Loksound or Tsunami2 can be the icing on the cake with this project, which will also allow for additional realistic light effects
I actually stuffed an ancient soundtrax 1 decoder I had laying around to just use as a motor decoder. It runs so smoothly.
@@InterurbanEra not bad. a sound update could turn it into a real gem, paired with a decoder buddy for lots of lighting functions like color changing class lights, truck lights, mars light, etc
Nice job amazing project! One thing I would change though, glue the front door further out. It looks like it's pushed in instead of open. That's all I think you should change. I have one of these, it's a very unique NS op. Lifesaver custom painted.
Good suggestion. The unusual hinge design they did for these F unit doors is difficult to capture in miniature, but a worthy challenge.
I am sold. I have a LOT of older engines that I thought of selling/giving away and buying the $300+ version. I have converted most of these to LED and chipped them and you're right... they are steady runners. Looks like I will need to get more drill bits for my pin vise! I don't trust myself with a big drill
Weirdly I found more confidence by setting the drill on the table and drilling the model that way. It was a fun project to do, post photos of/when you build something for yourself!
Hi!! Nice job you did the unit!! I love the older look you gave it, and I especially loved how you re-did the dynamic brake!! However as a former RR brakie and conductor (and a Santa Fe modeler) I gotta tell you a couple of things: NO ONE, let alone ATSF would ever put a unit in service (let alone a hot train) with the nose door open and unsecured like that - even as a trailing unit - as it's a hazard and an FRA violation!! The other thing is that ATSF #300 was actually #46 in 1968!! Lastly, my sincerest apologies if I sound condescending as it's not my intent...I just wanted you to know cuz I see you're going for accuracy, which I can definitely relate!! Once more, I love the work you did on it though!!! 🙂
Fantastic job! To get the f7 shell lower on the trucks you can easily remove the four metal support parts from its frame. You may have to use a smaller type of lightbulb, i’m not sure about that, but the overall impression gets even better than what you’ve already achieved. Keep up the good work, liked it very much. Thanks for that! Best Regards from The Netherlands, Hans
MRC presented an article to do the same in the October 23 issue.
Great tutorial.😁😁😁
I wrote the article! I'm glad it made it to subscribers already, I can't wait to see it in print!
Although I would never take the time to do that, you did a superb job with all of the modifications to greatly improve a MRC locomotive. Well done!
Attention to detail is amazing, nice job 👏
Okay, now THIS is what I call realism!
I am currently painting the same type of locomotive and needed to see how to weather the roof exhaust vents. Thanks for the video!
Glad it helped! It's always fun to weather F units
I really enjoyed your presentation style and the modelling here is fantastic!
Aww, thanks! I'm so glad you liked it. More diesel detailing builds will be on their way this Spring!
That was a great how-to video and quite informative as well. Well done
Excellent outcome 👍
You gained a subscriber from this awesome video. Seriously well done on this unit
Thank you so much! It was SO much fun to breathe life back into this engine.
I absolutely love this, you turned the model from a decent one to a amazing weathered and great detailed look!
I really appreciate this! It was such a fun project to bring to life.
10/10 looks better then alot of manufacturers could do (I don't hate the ones companies make it's just this model looks beautiful) looks like an engine that wasn't cared for
Thanks! It was really fun to build.
@@InterurbanEra can you make more videos of custom detailing and weathering models please?
Well I've got good news for you! I've got multiple steam, diesel, electric, freight car, and structure detailing/weathering videos currently being produced. Stay tuned for more of these on their way soon.
That said, what would you be most excited to watch?
@@InterurbanEra engines that are very little detailed then super detailing them and weathering them. It's enjoyable to watch
Nice job Miles. Looking forward to seeing your other projects
Fantastic work!
You did a fabulous job, especially with the touch-up paint job and weathering. 🤩
Awesome how-to video! The unit looks excellent!
That means a lot, thanks for the kind words! Been really enjoying your MKT layout updates and watch them regularly. Your approach to modeling scenery is so well executed, allowing visual elements space to be appreciated while still being realistic.
If you haven't already, subscribe and stick around, I've got a half dozen locomotive projects like this in the pipeline right now as future videos since I have a LOT of things nearly complete.
@@InterurbanErathank you! I sure appreciate the kind words! I am indeed on your subscriber list and will keep an eye out for your future videos!
Nice work and detailing
absolutely loved this video.would love to see more content like this!
There's definitely more locomotive and rolling stock improvement projects in the works! Stay tuned.
Great modeling video!
6:13 Long time Warhammer modeler and now model railroader. I'd suggest a precision pin vice drill for this work, rather than a big power drill. I only use power drills when drilling and tapping metal loco frames or frame weights for coupler pockets.
Precision pin vises are also a great option! This was a first experiment to see if I could do this since my pin vise is exhausting to use for what ended up being around 40 holes on this one shell alone. I purchased some drill bit pin vise style chucks a while back and they've worked beautifully. I typically use them on a drill press though.
Super. I too like the early F-7 units with the small dynamic brake fan, but I think that you made a minor boo-boo at 1:22. When you said 36" fan, I think you meant 48" fan. Awesome locomotive. 💙 T.E.N.
Yep! You caught it. You are correct.
Incredible! Great job!
Seeing another take on detailing an F unit is quite interesting. You and I have done very similar things in very different ways. My answer to a brittle shell was to use a Dremel and a file to clean up the edges. As such I was able to save the fan mounts and drop in new Cannon fans where needed. I also used masking tape to mark my holes for the front ladder. It allows the marks to be temporary and still yields a straight line as long as you drill next to the tape. I also use an Xacto knife to start holes, but then use a pin vise to finish. I ended up using the Walthers Diaphragms, but I think I'll have to give the ones you used a try.
I considered doing see-through cannon fans, but I also have an obscene amount of the cast fans from a collection I bought out from a closed hobbyshop. Do you have a link to your F unit? I'd love to see it.
@@InterurbanEra Posted the link but it auto-removed. Hopefully that comes through on a review page for you. You tempted me to make a post I've been putting off.
Wow, as somebody who remembers having a non-operational (broken) Santa fe locomotive when I was younger, this is unreal.
It's fun to breathe new life into broken things.
Stunning detailing and craftsmanship!! (new subscriber, ATSF/BNSF N-scale Mojave modeler)
I'm so glad you enjoyed it! Have you checked out the other fun kitbashes I've done yet? I did an NdeM RS1 recently that's pretty cool.
Wonderful job!
Great detailing job. For the replacement roof panels, lift rings and edge rivets are missing.
Santa Fe always spray painted pilot and trucks after each passenger run to keep them fresh looking.
Though you got the physical configuration done well, history says otherwise: these were not used much in freight service, except on the Super C and such for a short time. Since Santa Fe's psgr Fs did not go to Amtrak, they regeared them for freight service, painting them in "yellow bonnet" or "blue bonnet."
I'm actually modeling that short time window, circa 1968. So this was a perfect choice for my layout. The yellow and blue bonnets are out of my era, and wouldn't have been as useful a tutorial since you can just purchase one RTR. The goal of this project was to give new life to an engine most modelers most likely have laying around, an ATSF F7 in warbonnet.
I have some old broken Fs lying around. When I have time, they'll get new identities.
Nicely done. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching! It was fun to make.
Hello first time viewer. Very artistic rework on this Santa Fe Warbonnet engine. You rebuilt , overhauled & your version of what ATHEARN does in their PRIME FOR GRIME series. Successful work. 🎨👍
I'm so glad you enjoyed it! Lots more fascinating locomotive kitbashes are on their way in the coming weeks.
"WOW', At 70 and still can Not believe the Craftsmen in "the greatest hobby" we have today.
John Allen would be proud of them.
B.C. E. R.R.
This compliment means a LOT to me. Thanks for making my day Michael!
you mean people still model! great job!
Nice job, thanks
I have one of these f-units from an old tyco set classic warbonnet colors, but it's on display
I feel it's essential to have one laying around. I do as well
Great work!
Some top notch work
Why thank you!
Wow! Great job.
great video and very well done. Super detailing is an art that needs to be kept alive in todays world of models that are already done out of the box. Fantastic work. Do you know who makes that operating wig wag signal in the run by? Cheers Rob
Yes! Operating Wig-Wags are made by Showcase Miniatures www.showcaseminiatures.net/ho_scale/ho_scale_signals_wigwags_trackside_details/
This is simply amazing
Wow! That looks great! I’ve been working on kitbashing and upgrading an old Athearn F7 in a fantasy railroad scheme and was looking to ad a center headlight on the front door. Any chance you still have some of those extra replacement doors that one could purchase off of you?
I don't have any spares, but I'd recommend either buying a twin-headlight F7 shell used off ebay for $5 (easiest approach) or buying the Highliners #3109 "Nose Doors" detail part kit.
👏 👍 YOU DID AN AMAZING JOB...WOW.
Thank you so much! Make sure to subscribe, I've got at least 3 more cool kitbash videos being edited to post this spring.
I have few N scale Kato F3/7 a,b sets, that could do with some detailing if you're interested
This video is so amazing!! I’m so jealous of your detailing abilities! And honestly I’d say that F7 looks better than a genesis haha.
Also! If you don’t mind may I ask what music you were using at 12:16? It’s very catchy and relaxing but I can’t seem to find the name of it.
Thanks for making this video cool stuff
Glad you liked it!
Heya! Wonderful Video! I was wondering if you could tell me what music you were using in the background at 12:21 ? It’s super calming and I can’t seem to get it out of my head!
That song was from Epidemic Sound, searching through their 60's tab will probably find it quickly.
Nice scratch build!!
So did you use a particular detail kit or ala carte? And which diaphragm? Thanks , great job!!!!
Hah! I like the use of ala carte here. So the base of the details came from a Detail Assoc. F unit detail kit. American Limited diaphragm, a brass Athearn horn, details west roof fan, airhoses, and lift rings. That should start you off in the right direction!
@@InterurbanEra thank you . The m.u. Hoses looked really nice 👍🏼
@@kickitt24 you're very welcome! If you build any locomotive using details, LMK here in the comments
Good job.
What diaphragm kit did you use? Looking to add some to my own Intermountain Northern Pacific F3 units.
I used the excellent American Limited 9900 HO Scale Diaphragms for Stewart F Unit Diesels. Highly recommend them!
Wonderful video - just in time as I am working on dolling up (or down?) an old F7A unit I found in some boxes last week. Only question I have is the nose door; I can't seem to track that piece down anywhere. Intermountain doesn't have it, and Wlathers/Highline doesn't seem to have it. I've scoured eBay and exhausted Google, too. Any way you can point me in the right direction? :)
Intermountain has it as a replacement sprue for repair. If they don't have it, reach out to Athearn part department to ask if they have a spare in their repair dept. I don't think anybody explicitly sells it as a detail part directly, but if you contact either parts department they can help you out.
I subscribed!
Thanks for coming aboard!
ATSF units used to be kept clean and the pilots repainted after each trip as long as they were in passenger service.
This is correct, however, this is depicting it in the post-passenger era of the early 1970s. I have photographs of this exact unit filthy with dirt in 1972. Both 300L and 300C looked pretty worn out by then. So my model is in fact completely correct for what I did. The overspray of silver on the pilot is an accurate homage to back when they were touched up between runs. www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=5219590
End of life...
ALL HAIL THE CF7
Great job! I have subscribed to your channel.
I subscribed, great job it looks amazing
So pleased to have you aboard.
AMAZING!
Thanks so much!
Nice vid. Do you have a supplier name for the semi trailers on the flatcar? O reven ship containers for intermodal app?
Trailers are from Trainworx and Walthers. Early containers are hard to find but Walthers makes some late 60s 20' containers
Hello! I have a question about the bit you use for your drilling of the stirrups on the nose? I tried to look for an answer in the comments, but I couldn’t find it. Thank you and awesome work!
I've been using drill bits made by Xcel, I think it was a #55 drill bit, but i might be smaller
Is there some specific reason you use an MRC model? Why not a LifeLike or Bachmann or Athearn? Cheers from eastern TN
Yes! It was specifically to bring back my friends' beloved first "good" locomotive from sitting on a shelf for 20 years. Mechanically it's quite an excellent model, with finer detail that either the Bachmann trainset/ Bachmann Plus diesels or the Athearn Bluebox models. It has an excellent can motor, see through Farr grilles along the sides and actually flush window glass, something other models don't have. It's also DCC ready. Plus, they go for $50 all day long on eBay, so why not?
@@InterurbanEra And upon your recommendation I purchased a Pennsylvania model of the MRC F-7A for $35.50 and will repaint it when I get it. I want to change it to my road name, the Central of Georgia RR. Just talked the wife into letting me get two more MRC engines, another FP-7A (Pennsylvania) and an F-7B (Southern Pacific). Now I'll have a A-B-A consist. Didn't know they were already DCC ready. That's another plus. Cheers - eastern TN
Awesome job!! Where’d you get the door with the headlight??
You can buy them from intermountain's parts department. Send them an email!
@@InterurbanEra thank you!!
Damn this is nice
It was a pleasure to run! Lol
Water slide decals have to be the most evil thing ever introduced to the modeling world
They're tame compared to dry transfers! At least you can slide them on the model wet to align them properly. They take care and finesse to get right, but it could be worse!
Well done🚂🇨🇦🇺🇸
What drill do you use to make such fine holes? I’ve been looking for one, hand pin vise is not enough😅😅
Jewelry supply stores like Otto Frei & Borel make great high speed steel #80 drill bits
@@InterurbanEra you rock, thank you!!
@@minsterkiller123 you're welcome! Let me know how it goes!
What kind of decoder did you install in the unit? I got two MRC PC F7’s that I want to install DCC in but couldn’t find a decoder for them.
I eventually put a soundtraxx Tsunami decoder in there and a decent speaker.
even tho it has nothing to do with the video.i have a bluebox jersey pacific f7 that is my first ever loco i ever bought
I wonder if I could do the same with an old bachmann f7
Sure! This guide works for any F unit. If I was to use any Bachmann model to upgrade, I'd probably choose the excellent "Bachmann Plus" F7's from the 1990s or the newer ones with DCC. both are available under $50
@@InterurbanEra I think the one I have is an early 2000 one but I mean it runs good and got it for 20 bucks so if I can make it look like yours I'll be ecstatic.
Thank you
@@lordvader1672 absolutely perfect! Post photos and let me know how it goes!
@@InterurbanEra I will
@@InterurbanEra where'd you get that nose door from?
$50 for a H0 locomotive? Here in poland good luck finding anything below $150
Why did the windshields / windows end up looking fogged up even after the masking?
Got a timestamp?
@@InterurbanEra Well, the thumbnail for one. Maybe 12:16 and 12:32 as well. Or is it just the lighting?
@@whiteknightcat I took a moment to look at the model itself since I'd forgotten, and yeah, they're a bit road grimy! Obviously if you're after pristine glass you can mask it that way, I was following prototype photos of them being a bit dusty.
You are very talented and crafty. But I think all the work just to convert a F7 back to realism cost more than it's worth.
Look at it another way: the joy of this hobby IS the act of making, not just the finished result. It was really fun to spend time upgrading a model that holds a lot of sentimental value for Jay, as it was his first ever excellent running locomotive. It's also a low risk upgrade since it already runs spectacularly well, and TBH, it's not more work than I usually put into my locomotives, as you'll see in upcoming videos.
I threw in some extra flourishes to make it truly nice, and it didn't "cost" me much time or effort, and was very fun and enjoyable to do. A lot of model railroaders need to learn from plastic tank/airplane modelers and lean into the BUILD, not the result.
Us train modelers are often impatient to have it done as quickly as possible because building the miniature world requires so much time, but then we're robbed of the experience of taking our time to lavish some extra effort on things that matter in pursuit of the unattainable goal of a "finished" layout. So why try to rush to some place few if any have ever achieved, ignoring the little joys in the process?
It's a provocative thought to mull over.
@@InterurbanEra You are absolutely correct in your thoughts don't take my comment as criticism. I change all my rolling stock to sprung trucks with metal wheels and Kaydee couplers. So I know exactly what you are saying. Great work by the way.
@@edwardberwind8544 why Thank you! I really appreciate this. Everyone has their most and least favorite parts of modeling, and I'm glad you take the time to upgrade your rolling stock as well. It pays dividends!
How hard do you think the open door trick would be with two 74 year old Globe model (now Athearn ready to run) F7’s?
Actually easier! Globe F7s have softer plastic. Just be sure to be careful with the razor saw.
That said, did you see the updated shell tooling that premiered at the national train show last month? Might want to hold out for an engine shell that has correct nose geometry.
@@InterurbanEra I did not see the updated shell! But there’s something about breathing that new life into something that, 70 something years ago, someone would have and could’ve tossed to the side.
@@InterurbanEra Oh, and keep up the awesome work!
@@owenmccarthy2521 I strongly agree! That's one of the true joys of this hobby.
@@InterurbanEra Hey! Sorry for the random question. For the headlights, what company(ies) did you use?
Please spell the name of the window mask, I’d like to order some. Thank you ☺️
Grumbacher Miskit Liquid Frisket #559 should cost around $12
@@InterurbanEra most awesome! Thank you
I did not quite understand which basic model you used.
It's an MRC F7A from the 1990s, I mention it multiple times in the video.
@@InterurbanEra Sorry for my being ignorant. I have no idea how I should find a 30 year old discontinued model from MRC....
@@PeterNGloor no worries, that's the fun of the hobby. You can buy them easily for around $50 on eBay or even less at train shows. They made a lot of them, so they're not hard to find.
@@InterurbanEra Not if you live in Europe like me. Ordering E-Bay stuff from overseas is so expensive that we end up paying twice the item price with US postage, local VAT and import fees. But I have now found another Stewart F unit in England, that I will use to put my next Highliners project over the chassis.
Your work is nice but the ATSF never allowed its Warbonnets to look that warm out and still be in operation
Um, actually, they did in the 70s. I invite you to go look at the actual prototype photos I used for reference: www.rrpicturearchives.net/locopicture.aspx?id=139973
robert dont make it obvious you have no idea abt atsf history
I feel that you had way too much work to do. I have now switched to Highliners kits. They have all details (almost all) that many various models need. You can even use modern and old details mixed on a unit like the ATSF did.
Highliners kits are great! They also cost $110 for the shell + details, which is only $20 cheaper than just buying a used Athearn Genesis model RTR.
Are you the actor who played Sheldon?
I wish I got paid anywhere near what he makes in rerun residuals from that cursed show hahaha 🤣
What detail kit did you use for the eyebrow grab irons?
I bent my own from some extra grab irons from another F unit detail kit, bent and cut to shape. You can just use the proper diameter wire.
@@InterurbanEra thanks, I plan to do the same detailing but on a different f unit
The Santa Fe would never have allowed anything looking like that out on the road!
One of the cornerstones of my modeling is that I work specifically from prototype photo reference. If it didn't happen with the real locomotive, I don't do it.
Exhibit A: the EXACT locomotive I'm modeling: www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2702194
So, to answer your question: They did allow it out on the road, towards the end of their lives in the 70s.
Anything is better then a gensis locomotive...
It is an OK looking train but it is NOT a Super C.
Go ahead, tell me in excruciating detail how it's not a super C despite it matching photographs and extensive research, I'll wait.
@@InterurbanEra No need to wait any longer. While I have already explained in detail to the owner of the train, I can only assume that you did not get the memo. So, just for you i will reiterate. As I relayed to the owner, his power as well as his waycar were fine as Passenger F units were the only four axle locomotive to ever pull the Super-C. His waycar is an Indian Red car of the Ce class. It ran by so fast that I did not get the number but I assume it was within the Ce-1 -Ce -2 class of cupula waycars. Where he failed to pass the Super - C test was in his train. Not one of his trailers or his TOFC Flatcars were ever on the train. Here is why. The two Silver Trailers on the first flat were 35 ft trailers probably no longer used by the time the Super made it's inaguraul run. Super - C did have silver trailers but they were 40ft. 'Piggybacks'. The Pennys trailers were the same vintage and length as were the Cream and Red Santa Fe trailers on the third flat. Santa Fe was charging a premium rate to customers with a promise that their cargo would arrive within a specified time period. No shipper, if you understand business are willing to ship at premium rates and then short themselves out of five feet that could have been utilized on a trailer/container, so you won't be seeing nothing less than the standard length trailer/container which was 'Forty Feet'. As for the flatcars, they too are very early cars that Pennsy (I believe) introduced and were Seventy Five foot in length. Which is why the trailers fit so nicely. Then you have the third flatcar wearing TTX Yellow. This places that car in the 1970's as it was not until then that TTX moved to yellow paint. You are probably not aware but I would venture to say that a yellow TTX Flat loaded with two Santa Fe Creamy and white trailers never met in real life. So, this is why that train is NOT a Super- C. The closest you can say is that it somewhat mimic's a Super - C, but even that is a stretch. If you have verifiable proof that I am wrong present it and I will give you the credit for your knowledge. And for this, I WILL WAIT!
@@InterurbanEra Well, this is interesting. I sent my reply to the wrong person. I am often called upon to verify models of Super C's, so let me properly address your question. As I stated in the first reply, you too have correct locomotive and waycar. You even have the correct TOFC FLATS which appear to be Blu Box Athearn models. Here is where you missed the boat. Your F unit as I said earlier was correct down to the unit number, but Santa Fe NEVER ran a train with the nose door open. Especially the Super - C. Secondly, no S.F. Passenger F Ever pulled the Super looking as ratty as you portrayed your unit. I am not ridiculing your locomotive and it may very well have been seen in that condition on a local train or something less than Super - C class, but you must understand that this was Santa Fe's freight version of the Super Chief. As such they maintained a certain Standard for this train. Yes, it is possible that travel conditions dirty up the equipment, but that is not what you ran. Although your flats were correct, I was unable to read the names on them but if did not appear to be TTX which is the only name appropriate for use on the Super. Santa Fe never owned these. I cannot rule out your drop-bottom 40ft. IC trailer, but the other two behind it were not on the train either. Their were many trailers in the country during the Supers era. Not all were on the train and these certainly were not as they too are 35ft. trailers whose era had passed them by. I model the Super - C with a passion and I have modeled and researched it for more than a decade so that I could present as close to the real train as possible so I think I know a little about it. I take pride in a properly built Super - C and applaud those that do. Perhaps I will see a revised version of your train properly equipped and truly representing 'THE FASTEST FREIGHT TRAIN EVER!! IF YOU FEEL THAT i AM IN ERROR, PLEASE SAY SO. i DON'T GET OFFENDED WHEN i AM WRONG. I USE IT TO EDUCATE MYSELF. GOOD LUCK.
P.S. I would like to see a photo of a Super - C with 35ft. trailers on board. I'm sure you can produce that right?
I absolutely adore this response! Nicely detailed and meticulous. I appreciate the time you took to write it too. Too often wannabe rivet counters can't back up their "well, actually.." claims, but you delivered. Thank you.
So: The open door had to be done to swap the nose doors on the unit, and I always wanted one with an open door for added interest as a trailing unit in the future. Photos of 300C were used as guidance for details and weathering.
Cars are Athearn Genesis F89s in TTX brown., Trailers are whatever I could grab. Rapido 40' vans are on order for ATSF, and I wanted something nicer than the 59+ year old Athearn trailer tooling for the video.
Caboose is the exquisite Centralia Car Shops CE-1, checked against a roster to make sure ATSF had rebuilt it in time for my 1968 modeled year.
Inspiration photo for the two car consist cam from rrpicturearchives and shows an F unit, two TTX cars and a CE-1.
if you want to Collab on making a modest sized 1968 super C that meets your standards, that'd be fun!
How'd you get into modeling it/ knowing about it yourself?
@@InterurbanEra Thank you for your honesty. First off allow me to be clear. I did not make my original post to insult you, I just wanted to say that while you have a train that loosely resembles a Super-C, there were mistakes. I see this often and sometimes it get's the better of me so I apologize if I was too harsh. I am more than willing to help you in any way you need with this train. Personally, since it only ran for eight years, I model the life of the train and if you are a fan of it as I am you will find that this is very easy to accomplish. From it's inauguration in 1968 through 1970, you will find the train equipped with 85 and 89 ft. TOFC Flatcars. ATSF, TTX and Flexi-Van are very appropriate for this time period. You can search for if you do not have but want to include the flexi's, but they are now hard to find. SF also owned some as well as NYC, the creators of this all Container flat. According to my records, your 89 ft. XTTX flats existed but were spotty. You can still you them but you would be better served by converting them to TTX, as they ran from 1960 - 1995. Some cars retaining their Tuscan Red paint unchanged. Athearns 85' car is also correct but only in TTX. Finally, Walthers 85' cars were very much used in both ATSF Mineral Red and TTX Tuscan Red. If you decide to venture beyond 1970 Yellow TTX and Orange ATSF come into play. I am going to stop at this point because this is getting quite lengthy. I will post trailers in the next post later today, but tell me do you have a more appropriate place to discuss this as I have a wealth of information to share?
That almost one scale foot gap between the tops of the Blombergs and the carbody sill is quite noticeable.
---Instead of making unsubstantiated and plainly absurd claims without offering any proof, I'd like you to post a direct side by side comparison of this one with a Genesis Warbonnet F Unit, thereby backing up your claim of "Better than Genesis", okay?
...did you watch the video all the way through? The Genesis F unit (and an Intermountain one) are on my desk at multiple points throughout the video to make sure I get various details correct.
Also if you're obsessing over a scale foot, another viewer has a suggestion for closing that gap: Hans writes " To get the F7 shell lower on the trucks you can easily remove the four metal support parts from its frame."
If you already own a Genesis F unit, this video isn't for you. This is a video aimed at modelers who want to enjoy upgrading older models who might not be able to afford a Genesis model, but still want a highly detailed F unit that'll look great next to Genesis offerings at clubs or on your own layout for a fraction of the price.
So, I invite you to please take off your tired old "grumpy rivet counter" hat and just enjoy a nice modeling video. While I'm paid to literally count rivets for my clients, this is meant to be a fun guide to INSPIRE modelers to begin to learn how to super-detail, and perhaps achieve your eye for detail one day.