I started out on a sharpmaker (like many others) and found it very easy to get certain blades splitting hairs. Maybe it is because right off the bat they teach us to start with a 15 secondary bevel before moving onto the 20 degree edge angle, thus thinning out the “behind edge” for a super slicey effect. Of course ceramic stones remove steel pretty fast so I’ve learnt to be gentle with them.
Excellent video on a complex topic. The geometry Alex made was too thin to twist while cutting wood but if it were a blade dedicated to light tasks that would be an awesome edge. It would perfectly suit a chef knife. It's amazing how much you can thin it down and still have great edge durability. Don't bang, twist or cut hard materials and you can have a chef knife with Japanese cutting performance. For chef knives there is another important point. Full Flat sticks to food like crazy and increases resistance. A very subtle convex or irregular surface is enough to significantly improve cutting performance. A well made S Grind will be even better and food just falls off.
Well done!! To get best performance you need to understand the performance trinity: heat treat + grind/geometry + edge = performance. Heat treating is done by the maker so you really need to rely on them doing their job - some quick online searches will help. As for grind/geometry, there is no 'best' - you need to select the optimal option for the task at hand (this vid will help). Finally, the edge. This is the one aspect users have reasonable control over. You need to match the edge to both the steel and the task at hand. Once you understand the performance trinity you'll be able to get max performance out of any knife. Sharp blades all.
i have about $700 worth of sharpening equipment now and have been experimenting with edge geometry, sharpening techniques, toothy or polished finish. It only makes sense if you're going to be into knives to know what works best in different scenarios and with which types of tool, which steel, etc.
It's all in geometry, the finer the geometry of the primary grind and spine thinness the better the knife will cut. Edge is important of course but at the end of the day it's all in the geometry. Geometry that's built for the task at hand is the single most important part of a knife, even more so than the heat treat it's self and while that's hard to believe it's absolutely factual.
On the geometry of the edge, I didn't see anything on an apple seed, convex, edge. This is one of my favorites to use on a general utility edge as there is more material behind it. Just saying.
This is the reason I ended up getting rid of my 940 instead of my Bugout even tho I loved the aesthetic and feel in hand that the 940 had. Was basically a sharpened prybar compared to the laser beam of my Bugout.
9:35 I ALMOST agree with you... However there is a perfect knife IMHO and it's called the manix 2 and the k390 Delica. For me they are the perfect knife for everything I need in a knife.
As EDC for every use, you must have at least 3 knives, a small slicer (could be a SAK style) a scandi bush craft, and a brute for firewood. And a poop shovel and paper.
This is where super steals miss the mark. It would be nice if some of these manufacturers would use good old fashion buck 110 steel with good slicing edge. They are sharp but can't really peel a apple good the newer steels. Give us more of a option.
SRM makes a great knife (SRM makes the Ruike knives) FOR THE PRICE. You are getting a great knife for the 30-70 bucks they cost but don't get that confused with it being a great knife... It's a great knife for the MONEY but just a decent knife overall...Is it gonna out perform even something like a Kershaw link for 80 bucks with 20cv or magnacut ? Nope not a chance. Like years ago the Ruike P801 was absolutely my recommendation for a 30 dollar knife as it's fantastic for the price and would even be a deal at 50 bucks... Now days I wouldn't recommend it as the best 30 knife and it's not even in the top 20 anymore.
2 thiings I do not like about the mini strike I received this week. You can feel the blade start to release but you have to keep pressing to get it to open. Blade sharpness is non existent .'
Cut steak and vegetables with knives. Split wood with axe and sledgehammer or a black powder wedge. Knives were not meant to be axes, and this crazy stuff never got popular till rich folks started watching Naked and Afraid, etc etc
This should be mandatory viewing for anyone buying a knife. Thank you.
Thanks for the shoutout! Really good video and explanations on geometry👍👍
Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for your help!
Great video love that this becomes more mainstream knowledge!!
Great video. Well put together, well written, very informative, substantial and important information to share. Great B roll ad in footage too. A+
I started out on a sharpmaker (like many others) and found it very easy to get certain blades splitting hairs. Maybe it is because right off the bat they teach us to start with a 15 secondary bevel before moving onto the 20 degree edge angle, thus thinning out the “behind edge” for a super slicey effect. Of course ceramic stones remove steel pretty fast so I’ve learnt to be gentle with them.
Excellent video on a complex topic.
The geometry Alex made was too thin to twist while cutting wood but if it were a blade dedicated to light tasks that would be an awesome edge.
It would perfectly suit a chef knife. It's amazing how much you can thin it down and still have great edge durability. Don't bang, twist or cut hard materials and you can have a chef knife with Japanese cutting performance.
For chef knives there is another important point. Full Flat sticks to food like crazy and increases resistance. A very subtle convex or irregular surface is enough to significantly improve cutting performance. A well made S Grind will be even better and food just falls off.
Well done!! To get best performance you need to understand the performance trinity: heat treat + grind/geometry + edge = performance. Heat treating is done by the maker so you really need to rely on them doing their job - some quick online searches will help. As for grind/geometry, there is no 'best' - you need to select the optimal option for the task at hand (this vid will help). Finally, the edge. This is the one aspect users have reasonable control over. You need to match the edge to both the steel and the task at hand. Once you understand the performance trinity you'll be able to get max performance out of any knife. Sharp blades all.
I thought this vid was going to crap on the Ruike Hornet. That knife is awesome! It's a great knife!
This was a well thought out video.
i have about $700 worth of sharpening equipment now and have been experimenting with edge geometry, sharpening techniques, toothy or polished finish. It only makes sense if you're going to be into knives to know what works best in different scenarios and with which types of tool, which steel, etc.
Good information sir.
Dr. Larrin Thomas would approve. Respect
Thanks for explaining that very helpful
The ending made me chuckle. I should also go buy a new knife for that flower harvesting 😂
It's all in geometry, the finer the geometry of the primary grind and spine thinness the better the knife will cut. Edge is important of course but at the end of the day it's all in the geometry. Geometry that's built for the task at hand is the single most important part of a knife, even more so than the heat treat it's self and while that's hard to believe it's absolutely factual.
On the geometry of the edge, I didn't see anything on an apple seed, convex, edge. This is one of my favorites to use on a general utility edge as there is more material behind it.
Just saying.
This is the reason I ended up getting rid of my 940 instead of my Bugout even tho I loved the aesthetic and feel in hand that the 940 had. Was basically a sharpened prybar compared to the laser beam of my Bugout.
9:35 I ALMOST agree with you... However there is a perfect knife IMHO and it's called the manix 2 and the k390 Delica. For me they are the perfect knife for everything I need in a knife.
Why/how are those perfect?
Outdoors555 is the man 💯
Alex is pretty cool I'll give him that!
Awesome video! Please do a blade steal video next!
Wow. What a great vid. Plz keep stuff likenthis comin!!!
Great video
good job
As EDC for every use, you must have at least 3 knives, a small slicer (could be a SAK style) a scandi bush craft, and a brute for firewood. And a poop shovel and paper.
If you live in the forest sure, if you edc to work you'll only need a small fixed blade or a folder
@mv9197 I agree, my thought was about wilderness hiking, and for SHS.
What is the name of the axe on the wall in the background and where can I get one?
"Sometimes thickness is your friend".. that sounds so wrong
Wrong???? 🤔
That's _not_ what she said
ok
lol at batoning that disposable scalpel blade
My cart went away george! It says 0 knives in cart 😔 good thing i wishlisted them too
This is where super steals miss the mark. It would be nice if some of these manufacturers would use good old fashion buck 110 steel with good slicing edge. They are sharp but can't really peel a apple good the newer steels. Give us more of a option.
The old fashioned steel is more durable better slicer. I've us both on newer designs
I own the Ruike Hornet wich is razor-sharp out from the box, far superior to the knives made in USA.
SRM makes a great knife (SRM makes the Ruike knives) FOR THE PRICE. You are getting a great knife for the 30-70 bucks they cost but don't get that confused with it being a great knife... It's a great knife for the MONEY but just a decent knife overall...Is it gonna out perform even something like a Kershaw link for 80 bucks with 20cv or magnacut ? Nope not a chance. Like years ago the Ruike P801 was absolutely my recommendation for a 30 dollar knife as it's fantastic for the price and would even be a deal at 50 bucks... Now days I wouldn't recommend it as the best 30 knife and it's not even in the top 20 anymore.
2 thiings I do not like about the mini strike I received this week. You can feel the blade start to release but you have to keep pressing to get it to open. Blade sharpness is non existent .'
Buy a Convex
Cut steak and vegetables with knives. Split wood with axe and sledgehammer or a black powder wedge. Knives were not meant to be axes, and this crazy stuff never got popular till rich folks started watching Naked and Afraid, etc etc
He was making a point about knife geometry, not advocating using a knife as an axe (though in a pinch you work with what you have).