I would like to tell you that every time I watch the most wonderful content, I learn something new in a scientific way, mixed with the great experience that you share with your followers from all over the world. Thank you for everything you provide.
Probably best not to rap on any valve until AFTER initial leak-down test because you may inadvertently correct the issue before diagnosing and are left dumbfounded as to the problem...
This method forces you to see and hear your valve operation as well as the rings condition. U may have even misadjusted your rockers and u get to check/feel. I like.
I love how so many "shops" will throw parts at a vehicle with little understanding of diagnostics. The former tech in me asks myself how the hell did they miss this🤦 then again im not a heart surgeon so i cant throw too much shade. Good diagnosis on your part 👍
Interesting work flow, I guess it helps to have an engine that has easy access to valve covers. You already knew this engine needed more work so it was not wasted effort. It would be worth knowing about a bad spring by having the cover off, even in an engine that isn't worth the expense of a full head gasket repair. I know what you mean, it's often easier to watch rockers to decide what part of the cycle each cylinder is on. By removing rockers you delete that part of the equation, and with all valves closed the engine won't be so willing to spin with the compressed air. Also flow through the head gasket to an adjacent cylinder would be less likely to find an open valve. That said, maybe you want to demonstrate head gasket flow between cylinders before pulling the head. Good point, the leak down confirms air flow but doesn't take you much farther, and it's an extra step.
in this scenario, would the misfire on power balance greatly lessen when driving? I have a miss, not a dead miss, at idle on cylinder 2 on my 5.4 3v, but it dissapears during driving conditions, except at idle. Have ruled out all my secondary ignition stuff, and also smoke tested and vac gauged for vacuum leaks. The engine is newly rebuilt with new heads, but I'm thinking it has to be a valve issue on that cylinder, unless there is unmetered air getting in there somehow.
You may still have a miss and since the cause of the issue can vary so much it's possible that it's not noticed due to the fact as the rpms climb the miss is over powered by the rest of the cylinders firing. The first thing to check is pull the plug and check the condition. Is it not firing just kinda dark and wet looking or is it covered in oil or steam cleaned from a coolant leak getting in the cylinder? Just the condition of the plug can pinpoint where the issue is then you know at least its not a bottom end mechanical issue and more a top end but that still can leave alot from computer to gaskets to vacuum leaks.... Ect ect... But knowing the plug condition can tell a lot for not much effort! Well ... Lol depending on room but I found that with a really good jack and a stand you can get to the impossible from top to reach plugs really easy from the bottom. Sometimes a starter may have to be moved but easier then the upper intake fuel lines gaskets and the entire pile of engineering vomit required they love to throw up on the top side! But a valve issue on a single cylinder lawn mower can cause no start from no compression and a range of issues from one not seated for many reasons so of course it can be an issue in any number 4 6 8 or even a PV12 1100 Hp Merlin Rolls Royce in the P51 Mustang fighter would still notice an issue with the other 11 cylinders firing true! LMAO It's always something!!!!
Make sure you have the special Ford tools! Like valve spring compressor and lifter bleed-down wrench. OTC has it also Rotunda. Kent-Moore has tools for other cars.
Great video -- however, I don't know your final diagnosis. I guess this means a bad ring or piston? Air is leaking by into the crankcase and you are hearing it through the PCV line.??
I lapped the valves on both the rear and front cylinder banks. My problem is that the front cylinder bank has 3 leaky intake valves. I’ve re-lapped them and eventually replaced them. However, they are still leaking. I’ve hit the top with a mallet so that they seat correctly but no luck. Would this be due to the valve springs? The valve seats?
Thank you for the quick response. Alright so as of last night I put both cylinder heads in my trunk, took them to our local machine shop. He suggested a valve job. Along with replacing any out of spec or worn out (seat, valve, spring, guide). He’s resurfacing and a completely pressure testing both heads. Hopefully the $330 wasn’t too steep to agree upon.
Did i hear correct ? If air comes out another plug hole its from a leaking head gasket . Did i hear that right ? Or did i miss something ? Thanks for the videos ! They are very informative and well done !
How do you tell if it's the intake or exhaust leaking? If there was air coming from the tailpipe and the intake manifold? Or was there no air coming from the tailpipe?
This might be a dumb question but do you look up the torque spec for those rockers arms to go back on or it doesn't matter because it has a valve leak either way?
Any recommendations on a budget scan tool? I've been maintaining my 2010 f150 myself (5.4 3v) and would love to hear your thoughts on a budget scan tool
Are there any adjustments needed when putting the rocker arms back on? Does it matter whether they are hydraulic vs flat tappets or if tightening them places them back where they were originally?
So doing it this way it’s kind of like a reverse compression test just a lot more work but a lot more effective lol this test you’ll find whether it’s a intake or exhaust valve
Suspecting this on my 2v 4.6 mustang... coil packs didnt solve the noise. I'll try listening to the cranking. The exhaust occasionally smells a bit so not ruling out a hanging injector... but I'll have to pull the valve cover off and get a better look. It's hard to tell which head to look at tho.
how much psi do you use? Also I thought the PCV valve recycles exhaust so if air is coming out of the PCV would it not be the exhaust valve that has been closed but still leaking. I think you said the intake valve was leaking.
No in this procedure you closed both valves intake and ex so the cylinder is isolated. If you follow the air it will show you how the air is escaping. Tailpipe =ex valve .... ports on intake= intake valve ....... dipstick or pull drain plug = rings/cylinder walls...... spark plug hole next to the tested cylinder= head gasket
Also psi all you need is 100 check normal compression numbers for the engine you are testing go below it to be safe. I have 200psi air so I don’t wanna put 200 on a cylinder that normally should be seeing 120psi. Hell to be super safe 50 will do if it’s not sealing correctly the air will leak out.
Umm... Doesn't a leakdown tester do the same thing? I know mine does. Plug into plug hole, all plugs out, shop air on.. Exhaust leak comes out exhaust, intake out intake.. etc etc. (Challenging your inaccuracies statement)
So what I have is a a misfire on cylinder 3 only on cylinder 3 and then not too long ago I had a sensor code pop-up exhaust sensor now I have low compression and my car sounds really horrible I can see the door shaking really bad is there a fix for this
My Econoline only shakes after warming up. No engine codes. Air flowing out of the oil fill tube. Some smoke or steam out of the exhaust pipe. I replaced the faulty water pump and used both head gasket sealer and oil seal. It seemed to reduce the smoke a lot but when I press the gas in drive or reverse the van will barely move. The scanner picks up knocking, only with Forscan and not other scanners like BlueDriver. I am wondering what it could be. It mainly shakes on the driver side of the engine. I really hope it's not the a cylinder or wall. Please share some of your expertise with me. What about leaking valve seals, a bad sensor, etc? The temperature on the scanner shows much hotter than the guage on the instrument cluster. It barely moves. I am so confused. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment. Here is an update. Using more head gasket sealer I stopped the steam/smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. But combustion gases are leaking into the coolant. The engine doesn't shake nearly as bad but if I let it get hot it starts shaking again. It seems to be a blown head gasket. Maybe that caused other damage too. I really don't want to take the engine apart but it seems I don't have a choice. I am not very experienced in mechanics but it's not worth paying someone to fix it. Purchasing a used engine would probably be cheaper.
Hey I know this is a long time. Is there any quick way to make your intake valves sit properly to your cylinder head without taking off the cylinder head
Matt Smith did you ever get an answer to this? Once my 350z gets hot if you TV valve always has a lot of air/noise running through and from it! And my car drives like it has low compression...pcv valve and line have been changed of course
Hi there. You probably won't get this in time, but thought I woild give it a shot. Seems like you know exactly what you're talking about. I am going today at 5 pm to look at a Ford f150. The guy says he thinks there is a valve problem. He has replaced sparkplug and he says its still running ruff. I won't know till tomorrow. He has agreed to allow me to take it for an inspection. Do you know of someone reliable in Thornton Colorado? Thank you so much! I subscribed, because I think I will learn a lot from you. Thanks Again!!!
I o ow ots old but I have a 2010 flex with the 3.5 EcoBoost. I jave lack of power and found i have 180psi in 5 cylinders and 100 in thd other. What could cause this issue? Could ot be carbon on the valves? Bad rings how can i ye woth s leak down tests,? Ive never done one sk im lost with the lesk down test. Thanks. By the way i love your vids they helped me more than once.
My guess would be head gasket because you only have a problem on one cylinder normally rings show problem in more them one cyllinder unless they break on that especific cylinder...
my car was misfiring with codes p0300, p0302. p0303. p0304 and with check engine light on all the time, it was flashing too ! my case my car had burnt valves so replacing it at the shop right now almost a week now at the shop cost alot to replace too thousands cost is mostly LABOR !
Should the engine be warmed up some before testing or does it not matter? Also, should the valves be 100% air tight or would a slight leak be considered ok? Thanks for the great video.
My motorcycle is doing that. I'm gonna replace all the valves and top end and headgasket. Cause it has low compression.... I'm gonna do that first test it then if anything I will change the piston. Rings
depending on what it is you might be able to do a simple hone an put new rings . if there is a deep groove at the top of the bore then you might have too worn of a engine that needs to be resleeved . good luck . if its a dirt bike just buy a big bore kit
If youre talking about a "compression tester", it only measures total cranking compression. It does not tell you if the leak is at rings, intake valves, or exhaust valves. But a compression tester is the fastest way to check if there IS a compression problem. If youre talking about a "leak down tester", it measures the exact same things that Makuloco measures in the video, but you have to rotate the engine to the correct position to achieve both valves closed. But then, you have to have a leak down tester. The biggest thing to note: Makuloco is able easily remove the valve cover to individually remove the rocker arms in this engine. This closes the valves and makes the cylinder "air tight". In some engines, like Hondas, with a camshaft driving the rocker arms - you would have to loosen the valve adjusters. This would require removing the valve covers. On some engines, that is a massive pain in the ask :) And thats where using a leakdown tester (and properly rotating the engine to compression stroke on the cylinder you are testing) helps. If the leak is small and slow, a leakdown tester is also valuable as well. It will show a slow leak over time. NOTE: with valve covers removed, you can visually "ensure" that the valves are, in fact, closed. CAUTION!!!!: APPLYING COMPRESSED AIR TO A CYLINDER CAN CAUSE THE ENGINE TO TURN - THIS CAN MAKE THE CAR MOVE, IF ITS IN GEAR AND THE WHEELS ARE TOUCHING THE GROUND. OR IT CAN SPIN THE ENGINE, AND ANYTHING THATS ATTACHED TO IT. BE GOD-DAMMED 500% SURE THAT YOU TAKE YOUR TOOLS OFF THE CRANK PULLEY NUT, OR CAMSHAFT GEARS, OR ANYTHING ELSE BEFORE YOU PUT COMPRESSED AIR INTO A CYLINDER. Stay gold.
a "wet test" with a compression tester will tell you if rings are leaking. and aside from rings and valves, theres really not much more which could be leaking, so a standard compression tester is pretty descriptive in determining what could be leaking
xiomara ortiz E-Bay has Snap-On scanners and adapters for alot of cars. They are very affordable! Get the manuals! Also the battery adaptor. Get the latest cartridges! Get Emission cartridges if available. Snap-On scanners can do tons of tests!
The _first_ thing this guy should have done *after pressurizing* the cylinder is *remove* the *oil filler cap* and listen for *air* getting by the *rings.*
there will always be blow by past the rings and it can get you into trouble if you don't know what is normal or not. So not that is not the first thing you should do.
I would like to tell you that every time I watch the most wonderful content, I learn something new in a scientific way, mixed with the great experience that you share with your followers from all over the world. Thank you for everything you provide.
Not a Ford guy, but this guy is worth watching. Respect.
A trick: you can watch movies on Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Adriel Pablo yea, have been watching on flixzone} for since november myself =)
@Adriel Pablo Yea, I've been watching on flixzone} for since december myself :D
@Adriel Pablo Yea, been using flixzone} for since november myself =)
@Adriel Pablo Definitely, I have been watching on flixzone} for months myself :D
Very helpful. I have a 1991 Ford F150 5.0 and there is definately compression exhaust blowback and compression issues. This video explains a lot.
Probably best not to rap on any valve until AFTER initial leak-down test because you may inadvertently correct the issue before diagnosing and are left dumbfounded as to the problem...
I agree 100% glad someone said this
I think maybe a exhaust valve but until you pull ot apart and test it. Nobody knows lol.
Also I would pressure test as is on TDC and Not loosen rockers
That was a GREAT explanation on how to test for bad valves. Thanks!
This method forces you to see and hear your valve operation as well as the rings condition. U may have even misadjusted your rockers and u get to check/feel. I like.
I love how so many "shops" will throw parts at a vehicle with little understanding of diagnostics. The former tech in me asks myself how the hell did they miss this🤦 then again im not a heart surgeon so i cant throw too much shade. Good diagnosis on your part 👍
Interesting work flow, I guess it helps to have an engine that has easy access to valve covers. You already knew this engine needed more work so it was not wasted effort. It would be worth knowing about a bad spring by having the cover off, even in an engine that isn't worth the expense of a full head gasket repair. I know what you mean, it's often easier to watch rockers to decide what part of the cycle each cylinder is on. By removing rockers you delete that part of the equation, and with all valves closed the engine won't be so willing to spin with the compressed air. Also flow through the head gasket to an adjacent cylinder would be less likely to find an open valve. That said, maybe you want to demonstrate head gasket flow between cylinders before pulling the head. Good point, the leak down confirms air flow but doesn't take you much farther, and it's an extra step.
in this scenario, would the misfire on power balance greatly lessen when driving? I have a miss, not a dead miss, at idle on cylinder 2 on my 5.4 3v, but it dissapears during driving conditions, except at idle. Have ruled out all my secondary ignition stuff, and also smoke tested and vac gauged for vacuum leaks. The engine is newly rebuilt with new heads, but I'm thinking it has to be a valve issue on that cylinder, unless there is unmetered air getting in there somehow.
You may still have a miss and since the cause of the issue can vary so much it's possible that it's not noticed due to the fact as the rpms climb the miss is over powered by the rest of the cylinders firing.
The first thing to check is pull the plug and check the condition.
Is it not firing just kinda dark and wet looking or is it covered in oil or steam cleaned from a coolant leak getting in the cylinder?
Just the condition of the plug can pinpoint where the issue is then you know at least its not a bottom end mechanical issue and more a top end but that still can leave alot from computer to gaskets to vacuum leaks.... Ect ect...
But knowing the plug condition can tell a lot for not much effort!
Well ... Lol depending on room but I found that with a really good jack and a stand you can get to the impossible from top to reach plugs really easy from the bottom. Sometimes a starter may have to be moved but easier then the upper intake fuel lines gaskets and the entire pile of engineering vomit required they love to throw up on the top side!
But a valve issue on a single cylinder lawn mower can cause no start from no compression and a range of issues from one not seated for many reasons so of course it can be an issue in any number 4 6 8 or even a PV12 1100 Hp Merlin Rolls Royce in the P51 Mustang fighter would still notice an issue with the other 11 cylinders firing true!
LMAO
It's always something!!!!
So did you put a new head on it? What was the fix?
Make sure you have the special Ford tools! Like valve spring compressor and lifter bleed-down wrench. OTC has it also Rotunda. Kent-Moore has tools for other cars.
Great video -- however, I don't know your final diagnosis. I guess this means a bad ring or piston? Air is leaking by into the crankcase and you are hearing it through the PCV line.??
+XORBob no the air was coming past the valves at the seats.
Okay, cool. Thank you.
I lapped the valves on both the rear and front cylinder banks. My problem is that the front cylinder bank has 3 leaky intake valves. I’ve re-lapped them and eventually replaced them. However, they are still leaking. I’ve hit the top with a mallet so that they seat correctly but no luck. Would this be due to the valve springs? The valve seats?
Have a machine shop do the work they will be able to get them sealed properly, I would be looking at the seats yes.
Thank you for the quick response.
Alright so as of last night I put both cylinder heads in my trunk, took them to our local machine shop. He suggested a valve job. Along with replacing any out of spec or worn out (seat, valve, spring, guide). He’s resurfacing and a completely pressure testing both heads. Hopefully the $330 wasn’t too steep to agree upon.
Did i hear correct ? If air comes out another plug hole its from a leaking head gasket . Did i hear that right ? Or did i miss something ? Thanks for the videos ! They are very informative and well done !
Bart fox if the gasket is broken between two neighbouring cyclinders...the pressure goes back and forth between them.
How do you tell if it's the intake or exhaust leaking? If there was air coming from the tailpipe and the intake manifold? Or was there no air coming from the tailpipe?
Correct, no air from tail this time. Just the intake side
when checking for leaky valves with shop air does each cylinder being tested need to be on top dead center on compression stroke
Yes
Yes... And in my opinion in this video the piston was not on top dead center that was too much air getting out by the pcv valve
No
@@ricardopereira771if he loosen the rocker arms, it doesn’t matter
This might be a dumb question but do you look up the torque spec for those rockers arms to go back on or it doesn't matter because it has a valve leak either way?
Any recommendations on a budget scan tool?
I've been maintaining my 2010 f150 myself (5.4 3v) and would love to hear your thoughts on a budget scan tool
Checkout a launch x431 obd 2 scan tool. Launch makes awesome scan tools
Are there any adjustments needed when putting the rocker arms back on? Does it matter whether they are hydraulic vs flat tappets or if tightening them places them back where they were originally?
This has taught me so much! Thanks
So doing it this way it’s kind of like a reverse compression test just a lot more work but a lot more effective lol this test you’ll find whether it’s a intake or exhaust valve
This is a cheap way to perform a cylinder leakdown test with a cylinder leak down tester.
@@FordTechMakuloco I like it
great video what is your opinion on in cylinder pressure transducer testing with a lab scope to find engine mechanical problems ?
Never use them never needed to go that far if this leak fails we are pulling the head bar none and doing the water leak testing etc from there.
Suspecting this on my 2v 4.6 mustang... coil packs didnt solve the noise. I'll try listening to the cranking. The exhaust occasionally smells a bit so not ruling out a hanging injector... but I'll have to pull the valve cover off and get a better look. It's hard to tell which head to look at tho.
how much psi do you use? Also I thought the PCV valve recycles exhaust so if air is coming out of the PCV would it not be the exhaust valve that has been closed but still leaking. I think you said the intake valve was leaking.
No in this procedure you closed both valves intake and ex so the cylinder is isolated. If you follow the air it will show you how the air is escaping. Tailpipe =ex valve .... ports on intake= intake valve ....... dipstick or pull drain plug = rings/cylinder walls...... spark plug hole next to the tested cylinder= head gasket
Also psi all you need is 100 check normal compression numbers for the engine you are testing go below it to be safe. I have 200psi air so I don’t wanna put 200 on a cylinder that normally should be seeing 120psi. Hell to be super safe 50 will do if it’s not sealing correctly the air will leak out.
Set your compressor to 90 psi
Umm... Doesn't a leakdown tester do the same thing? I know mine does. Plug into plug hole, all plugs out, shop air on.. Exhaust leak comes out exhaust, intake out intake.. etc etc. (Challenging your inaccuracies statement)
So what I have is a a misfire on cylinder 3 only on cylinder 3 and then not too long ago I had a sensor code pop-up exhaust sensor now I have low compression and my car sounds really horrible I can see the door shaking really bad is there a fix for this
My Econoline only shakes after warming up. No engine codes. Air flowing out of the oil fill tube. Some smoke or steam out of the exhaust pipe. I replaced the faulty water pump and used both head gasket sealer and oil seal. It seemed to reduce the smoke a lot but when I press the gas in drive or reverse the van will barely move. The scanner picks up knocking, only with Forscan and not other scanners like BlueDriver. I am wondering what it could be. It mainly shakes on the driver side of the engine. I really hope it's not the a cylinder or wall. Please share some of your expertise with me. What about leaking valve seals, a bad sensor, etc? The temperature on the scanner shows much hotter than the guage on the instrument cluster. It barely moves. I am so confused. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment. Here is an update. Using more head gasket sealer I stopped the steam/smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. But combustion gases are leaking into the coolant. The engine doesn't shake nearly as bad but if I let it get hot it starts shaking again. It seems to be a blown head gasket. Maybe that caused other damage too. I really don't want to take the engine apart but it seems I don't have a choice. I am not very experienced in mechanics but it's not worth paying someone to fix it. Purchasing a used engine would probably be cheaper.
I did this when i changed valve seals. a lot of air was coming out of push rods holes. What can that be?
Another great video!! thank you
Hey I know this is a long time. Is there any quick way to make your intake valves sit properly to your cylinder head without taking off the cylinder head
Muchas gracias señor!
I’ll settle for the “old-fashioned” leak down test. At the end of the day...this method is way more work.
Hope you still have this account. Lazy ass 😂
now just remove valve spring ... put a drill on the valve stem , spin it for a second .. and you know if valve is reset , warped , or burnt out
Couldnt air coming out of the PCV also indicate bad rings?
Matt Smith did you ever get an answer to this? Once my 350z gets hot if you TV valve always has a lot of air/noise running through and from it! And my car drives like it has low compression...pcv valve and line have been changed of course
Once cars warm, always hear my pcv valve has a loud hiss from it****** sorry lol
How many intake valves & how exhaust valves are in a 5.4 engine 08 Ford f150 triton
Hi there. You probably won't get this in time, but thought I woild give it a shot. Seems like you know exactly what you're talking about. I am going today at 5 pm to look at a Ford f150. The guy says he thinks there is a valve problem. He has replaced sparkplug and he says its still running ruff. I won't know till tomorrow. He has agreed to allow me to take it for an inspection. Do you know of someone reliable in Thornton Colorado? Thank you so much! I subscribed, because I think I will learn a lot from you. Thanks Again!!!
i have a 07 taurus 3.0 ohv and its popping threw intake runs ok any suggestions? thanks in advance
I o ow ots old but I have a 2010 flex with the 3.5 EcoBoost.
I jave lack of power and found i have
180psi in 5 cylinders and 100 in thd other.
What could cause this issue?
Could ot be carbon on the valves?
Bad rings how can i ye woth s leak down tests,?
Ive never done one sk im lost with the lesk down test.
Thanks.
By the way i love your vids they helped me more than once.
My guess would be head gasket because you only have a problem on one cylinder normally rings show problem in more them one cyllinder unless they break on that especific cylinder...
that is very good ideas.. if ya have a compressor at home lol
Maybe one of those portable compressors from Harbor Freight?
this was so great as I'm going to write my trade next month
my car was misfiring with codes p0300, p0302. p0303. p0304 and with check engine light on all the time, it was flashing too ! my case my car had burnt valves so replacing it at the shop right now almost a week now at the shop cost alot to replace too thousands cost is mostly LABOR !
That was slick
Dude!!! You are awesome!!! Thank you so much for the video!!! This will give me info on what is going on with my motor!!!
Should the engine be warmed up some before testing or does it not matter? Also, should the valves be 100% air tight or would a slight leak be considered ok? Thanks for the great video.
What causes a burnt exhaust valve?
Great video, thanks for posting
My motorcycle is doing that. I'm gonna replace all the valves and top end and headgasket. Cause it has low compression.... I'm gonna do that first test it then if anything I will change the piston. Rings
depending on what it is you might be able to do a simple hone an put new rings . if there is a deep groove at the top of the bore then you might have too worn of a engine that needs to be resleeved . good luck . if its a dirt bike just buy a big bore kit
@@codyramos3200 it's a cbr1000rr
@@jonathna11 , have you confirmed low compression with testing ? i havent hear of to many supersports having low compression honestly ...
How do you do that on the coyote engine
How does this differ from a regular compression test with a gauge?
If youre talking about a "compression tester", it only measures total cranking compression. It does not tell you if the leak is at rings, intake valves, or exhaust valves. But a compression tester is the fastest way to check if there IS a compression problem.
If youre talking about a "leak down tester", it measures the exact same things that Makuloco measures in the video, but you have to rotate the engine to the correct position to achieve both valves closed. But then, you have to have a leak down tester.
The biggest thing to note: Makuloco is able easily remove the valve cover to individually remove the rocker arms in this engine. This closes the valves and makes the cylinder "air tight".
In some engines, like Hondas, with a camshaft driving the rocker arms - you would have to loosen the valve adjusters. This would require removing the valve covers. On some engines, that is a massive pain in the ask :)
And thats where using a leakdown tester (and properly rotating the engine to compression stroke on the cylinder you are testing) helps. If the leak is small and slow, a leakdown tester is also valuable as well. It will show a slow leak over time.
NOTE: with valve covers removed, you can visually "ensure" that the valves are, in fact, closed.
CAUTION!!!!: APPLYING COMPRESSED AIR TO A CYLINDER CAN CAUSE THE ENGINE TO TURN - THIS CAN MAKE THE CAR MOVE, IF ITS IN GEAR AND THE WHEELS ARE TOUCHING THE GROUND. OR IT CAN SPIN THE ENGINE, AND ANYTHING THATS ATTACHED TO IT. BE GOD-DAMMED 500% SURE THAT YOU TAKE YOUR TOOLS OFF THE CRANK PULLEY NUT, OR CAMSHAFT GEARS, OR ANYTHING ELSE BEFORE YOU PUT COMPRESSED AIR INTO A CYLINDER.
Stay gold.
a "wet test" with a compression tester will tell you if rings are leaking. and aside from rings and valves, theres really not much more which could be leaking, so a standard compression tester is pretty descriptive in determining what could be leaking
head gasket
head gasket?
@@dnlmachine4287 How do you make sure the engine doesn't turn?
Any videos in your inventory of valve seal replacement?
Such a helpful video, thanks!
Why the Heck did Ford come out with a 12 Valve engine in this day and age? Lol
+treydotsizzle this engine came out in the early 90's. They just keep using it with minimal upgrades through 2005 because it was so reliable.
FordTechMakuloco oh i see
treydot_ six cylinders x intake x exhaust= 12 valves
Where do I find shop air?
@@mrbojangles9841 that's right, Walmart has everything
My lexus ls430 has 28000 miles. With regular maintenance spark plugs belts water pump, etc... it has the original starter and alternator
what scanner was used?
I use the Ford IDS in this video.
xiomara ortiz E-Bay has Snap-On scanners and adapters for alot of cars. They are very affordable! Get the manuals! Also the battery adaptor. Get the latest cartridges! Get Emission cartridges if available. Snap-On scanners can do tons of tests!
3:00 mopar box in a ford shop
Dual Brand dealership.
Is it possible to have a high (or within the range) compression result and still have leaking valves?
Rafael Martines ya I think your right otherwise the car wouldn’t really run
The _first_ thing this guy should have done *after pressurizing* the cylinder is *remove* the *oil filler cap* and listen for *air* getting by the *rings.*
there will always be blow by past the rings and it can get you into trouble if you don't know what is normal or not. So not that is not the first thing you should do.
very good video!
That's exactly how my car sounds 3:15.....
did you ever fix it
😆😆😆😂😂😂
That's pretty cool!
Why leak your finger to see if air is coming out the pipe, just use some tissue and hold it to see if it blows off
Looks like this car is a money pit.
Good vids. Now make some for muscle building. You got some beefy arms.
3:16
LOL! And eventually your worn out cartoon car will say, "That's All Folks!"
👍🏽
YOUR CAR IS FUKING 1991
I heard nothing
Original plugs and wires 😂 🤦🏽♂️
He mentioned it to make it known that that’s probably not the issue like some may think. 🤷♂️