2011 Subaru Outback blend door actuator location
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2021
- This video provides the location of the blend door actuator for a 2011 Subaru Outback with electronic single-zone climate control.
This isn't the most informative video, as I work alone and didn't plan on recording anything at the start, but - what with the lack of other videos out there - I'm hoping someone can see the goal here and fill in the blanks.
The actuator is held in place by 3 screws, the top of which is nearly inaccessible without removing the entire dash. Furthermore, you have to line up the linkage follower pegs in the airbox with the cam disk slots, something which I believe would be nearly impossible with the dash in place.
The Subaru part # of the actuator is 72131AJ09A.
Do the right thing and disconnect the battery, as you'll be exposing the side curtain and passenger airbags.
Good luck!
Great video, it helped me a lot. I did it myself and it took 2 days. The mode actuator is part number 72131AJ09A.
Note to always leave the HVAC venting to front / feet, this is home position that it goes to when ignition is turned off.
I always left it in feet only position so every time the ignition was turned on the actuator moved and then when the
ignition was turned off the actuator moved. This wears out the resistive ink for position feedback. Once the ink
is worn off the controller is constantly moving the actuator trying to find the correct position, I think this is a design
error on the part of Subaru. Same problem on both my Subaru cars, 2010 and 2014.
That's some great advice...thank you! I did NOT have the actuator set in any particular setting when I installed it; instead, I believe I simply got lucky with the pin alignment. Indeed - this is a design flaw. Not so much in the limited access of the part, perhaps, but in the sense that something like this shouldn't be failing with the regularity that it seems to fail.
Damn I appreciate that video because I was about to do the same thing now I'm rethinking
Ditto
If you're gonna get into it, I'd definitely consider the weather for the day and set aside a few hours! I wouldn't consider getting into this in the winter here in New England...too cold on the hands and on the plastic trim pieces. Regardless, an annoying task for a part that seems to have a rather poor track record of performance!
Thanks, Jeff. Exactly what I need
Yeah I think it's time to trade it in
Jeff....after Dick Tracy'ing this thing on my wife's 2013 outback...I'm not so certain that my clicking isn't coming from a different actuator (blend door? mode?) which SOUNDS like it is coming from lower down at/near the area beneath the steering wheel. My HVAC is working mostly fine in the car and changes modes normally, however, when put in the upper/face vent mode I get a clicking from the servo/actuator. I was praying that the sound was NOT up top where your problem was....and I don't think that it is. Is there another lower actuator? Any assist appreciated.
Mode actuator. Doesn't call for pulling the dash but this job is a nightmare either way. Just did one today
I'm so annoyed at subaru since this issue seems like a very common issue.. yeah my 2014 Outback started making that noise at the dash at 100k+ miles... I ignored the issue ever finding out what the issue is... Also hate the fact that I find out recently my control arm bushing is going bad at 110k miles ..did not realize cars today still use plain rubber bushings vs Polyurethane bushings.... the control arm rear bushing seems to be also a common issue. Subaru that were 2005 generation seemed to have more durable rubber bushing design than 2010-2014. Will start change out my right control arm in a day and the next day left control arm. Also thanks for the video since I'll have to put that off for a while and work on the control arms first.
Suspension problems may surely take precedence! I justified this repair in the summer months, largely because - without the actuator functioning properly - the front defrost was inoperable, making the windshield a foggy hazard on rainy days. Best of luck in all your repairs...this one is annoying but satisfying once complete, if nothing else.
Chevvy has the same exact same issues with these actuators. Back when I was a kid, cars had a big plastic lever on the dash, and just a steel rod to control the flappin' unit mechanically.
@@beetle2887 Yep and dangerous too.
How do you specifically realign the pegs? I have a 2018 WRX with the same issue. Clicking noise when turning on/off the HVAC. Possibly in two different areas, one center console area and another around this area you showed. Are you saying realign the pegs with the dash off when installing the new actuator? Or moving the sliders to a down position? I can do the work but I'm a little foggy on that part. Thanks!
ruclips.net/video/hvskDFJVPO8/видео.htmlsi=Xsg_bFZENSS_0m6e
Isn't it possible to make access holes under a cover? Or friggin' install a metal rod on the actual flap and do a manual override?
so for my 2011 outback, at this moment in time, the most neutral position for the user controls so the stupid computer isn't exercising and wearing out these actuators every time I turn the car on or off, is windshield & feet.
How did you manage to get it all aligned? Not sure which nubs go in what slots.
Sugar, I believe I got a bit lucky with the alignment. I couldn't wrap my neck up over the top to see the pegs in the air box, nor did I have mirrors set up to help out...instead, I gently rotated and jimmied the actuator around until it fit snug on the mounting points. This may have been dangerous, as - were I to have misaligned it - I'd bet the initial power-on could have bent and snapped the new unit quite easily. I'm hoping someone out there would have some input as to the proper procedure for initial alignment eventually. Best of luck!
While trying to replace the mode selector actuator, without removing the dash, I broke one of the plastic ends that go into the cams on the actuator. Local shop wants $2k to replace entire HVAC enclosure. Just wondering if I were able to remove the dash, do you think it is possible to install another flapper door, without disassembling the entire box?
Hi Erich, this response is a test run, as my other attempts at responding to you don't seem to show up on my end...
Can you confirm that you're seeing my response here? -Jeff
@@beetle2887 hi, yes.
Hi Erich! That's a bummer...I'm not sure what the best choice moving forward would be. I'd think that - were you able to access the airbox - you'd be able to use an epoxy to reattach the peg, though holding it perfectly in place during curing may be a hassle, along with the proper placement of epoxy as to not interfere with the peg's engagement with the cam. Tough spot...
From what I discovered, the airbox itself is quite integral to the entire front cabin, and removing it entirely would require the removal of just about everything in the front dash area. Quite a hassle. Perhaps $2k isn't all that bad, considering the time it might take (if that includes the new airbox).
That being said, I'd first be inclined to carefully disassemble the entire dash and remove the airbox myself in an attempt to repair the broken peg and save the $. I'm not sure about replacing the entire flapper door; many airboxes I've seen are sonically-welded shut, and don't allow for any separation for repair. Replacing the flapper door would probably be the best repair angle, but getting to it and removing it might prove nearly impossible.
There may be a few good pictures of replacement airboxes online; these might give some good indication of whether or not they're designed to allow for such maintenance. Best of luck!
JB weld for plastic.
That a mode actuator
Did you find instructions somewhere for removing the dash?
Search for Mr Subaru on youtube as he shows the whole removal process in a video. It's a nightmare job.
That's a negative...for better or worse, I've been down this road before, so I'm comfy with ripping an otherwise fine dash apart.
It IS a hassle of a job for a few reasons, largely because there are a dozen little fasteners holding the dash where it's supposed to be, and you need to be well-stretched and limber to bend yourself in weird ways to access each one.
If you tackle this job, take it slow and stay organized with each screw, and remember to reattach each electrical plug when you reassemble everything! And have a bottle of Advil nearby for your back when you're finished. :)
How many hours did it take you to do this? 2011, same thing No Floor or Defrost. Scan tool indicates no movement plus fault code for this part. Still have the airbag safety recall. Was going to have Subaru dealer fix when they do the recall since they have to do the airbags anyway. They still want $800 to do it. Any suggestion on special tools to help out ? thks.
I am in middle of replacing mine on the 2018 outback. I look at service manual and it only asks for removal of metal plate under steering wheel. Nut I removed the driver seat and had to work from under the dash to remove the actuator unit. I managed to put it back together BUT not all modes are working correctly as I must have misaligned one of the pegs which probably isn't sitting in right channel. I dread removing the dash so I guess ill get under the panel again next weekend to see if I can get away with it or get lucky somehow.
@@rustypilot65S What a nightmare this sounds like. In CA I didn't need defrost so really didn't notice it inop. Please advise if you get it fixed.
@@ruizhou9612 yes I just fixed it couple of weeks ago. I had to remove driver seat and the panel under steering. I threw a comforter on floor and reached up to get the screws and the actuator out to service it. Since I had the seat and panel under steering out for different reasons, I was half way there. But honestly, getting all three flap control knobs correctly lined up in actuator if frustrating. I ended up removing it a few times to get it right. :( but it’s done and working now.
@@rustypilot65S now isn't the part that you replaced a different actuator when compared to the OP's part? His actuator would require replacement from atop thus dash removal necessary. Your actuator was down lower?....beneath the steering wheel area driver's side.....I think I'm having the same problem. What/which actuator is that down there?....part number? Help appreciated.
@@jgladstone179 mine is a 2018 outback. There are two servo motors on driver side to control hvac. The blend door motor to control temperature is more accessible but the mode control motor is higher up, almost as high as the radio unit. Look at the parts manual or search for hvac mode actuator or motor. In the results you will find some dealer sites publish the parts diagram of the section to understand better.
Hey, Jeff. I just bought a 2011 Legacy and my problem is that I have heat blowing out of the driver's side vents (both at chest and floor level) but I have cold air blowing out of the passenger vents. Do you think it could be the door actuator or might it be something else? Just hoping to avoid the dealership. Thanks!
Hi Brandon! My first question would be whether you're looking for cold air and not heat, i.e. you've got the AC on...
If this is the case, I had the same issue: only the driver's side was blowing cold (maybe it was only the passenger side blowing cold...I don't remember exactly, but that's OK...)
A bottle of refrigerant fixed the issue 100%... nice and easy! The recharge bottles are about $25 or so, with the attachment required for the AC lines. They come with bulletproof instructions too, which is nice when dealing with an AC system IMHO.
Give this a try...I'd put $ on this fixing the issue!
@@beetle2887 I was actually looking for heat. It's cold as heck in Michigan right now and my driver's vents were doing everything they were supposed to. It was the passenger that was just blowing cold air when I was asking for heat. I didn't even think to check both sides for something like that. Lesson learned.
@@beetle2887 And it isn't a dual climate control situation. I only wish it were so easy.
Hmm...I'd have to dig up some better knowledge in this case. It's possible that the heater core isn't purged of air. When this happens, the core is only partially filled with hot coolant, and therefore doesn't provide adequate heating of the air passing over it. I suppose that - depending on the design of the air ducts - that air passing through the bottom could be directed towards the driver side, and air passing over the empty top could be directed towards the passenger...
To rule out the air box, you can test each directional setting and make sure that air is flowing where it's supposed to flow (front, feet, windshield...)
Ruling that out, I'd look into bleeding the heater core. Often it's a small bleeder valve or screw...chances are it's highly inaccessible though! Haha. Always is...
My heater coil was half blocked caused this.did a flush with good hose or gently water blast and reverse flush first at firewall fittings in engine bay.theres some vids on RUclips
Apparently you don't have to pull the dash off
Well, now I'm curious! I can see how one could replace this without removing the dash, but my hands and neck and back weren't up to the task of contorting in such a way to access all of the fasteners. Any tips on how to get to all the fasteners?
@@beetle2887 usually the the top philip screw giving problem, use a 1/4 ratchet short extension bar together with a philip bit will easily take it off.
Thanks for the video! It's the only video I've found that shows where it's at. Was really hoping it would be easier to change. Looks like it's a summer project now lol.
Alot easier than you make it I just did one today drop the steering column and you can get to it
What a nightmare
I had a car I just kept on floor and defrost, it was fine.
That's NOT a Blend Door! That is the Mode Door! SMH
That's honestly got to be one of the worst signs I've ever heard I have a 2012 Legacy and mine just crapped out Jesus Christ.....