I have a 2009 Impreza. I appreciate how you continue to reference the older Subarus in your tutorials. The differences and how to fix things on those EJ series. Thanks
Thank you, Mr. Subaru for demystifying these failure points. It really helped me check my own system for these common problems. I haven’t found another explanation of the A/C system in Subarus that is as simple and straightforward as yours.
Zip tie trick to tighten up A/C compressor cluch gap works great for me for 6+ years with my 2015 Forester XT. Still works today saved me alot of money and time.
@@williambianco2304 ruclips.net/video/F9x6TePYs60/видео.htmlsi=zOWiEYI-zSNSMvct just like this is how I had mine rigged up to get the clutch clearance tighter.
AC compressor relay: - Common for the OEM part with age to heat up and fail. - Symptoms: It presents as solid AC working well for the first several minutes and then just stopping, with it working again next time you drive the car, just to repeat the issue. - Quick diagnostic: with the AC switched on but in it's failed state, remove the relay and bridge the outputs. If clutch engages again, it is likely the relay. - Remedy. Replace with new relay; Many aftermarket ones like Narva do an excellent job.
While browsing for ratchets I randomly thought … I wish MrSubaru would do more of those “if you like this tool here’s who actually makes it and where you can get it cheaper” videos on RUclips. They seem to be a big hit, hell I’d even take a compilation upload of past shorts you did in one big video. Some of the best tools I have are from you showing where the originals came from. Still waiting to pull the trigger on some nice foreign sockets 🤣
I have a 2010 2,5 Subaru outback. Problem with the AC, at start it blows cold air but not for long, about 5 minutes and than the clutch disengages. First I checked the clutch gap, it was 0,7mm, (to big) changed it to 0,35mm. That was not the solution, then I swapped the Horn relay with the AC relay, and that solved the problem. So a bad Relay was the problem.
@@danielchavez4484 Yes, I ordered a new relay for the airco. The relay was the problem, airco works fine now. The relay was 14 years old, and I guess that aging made it fail, confusing was that it worked for a short time.
I am having this same problem on my 15 forester. Replaced compressor and still doing the same problem I am going to try this. God I hope it works no a/c in the south sucks.
I bought a 2017 WRX with 26k miles and the AC compressor was already bad. I bought a used compressor from eBay for $60, had my system drained at a quick lube place for $30, installed the used compressor myself, and then had the dealership refill/lube/balance the system for $90. $180 and like 3 hours of my time to fix a dead compressor, and after that it would blow so cold it would chase me out of the car lol.
If the compressor won't come on I've seen several broken ambient air temp sensors. their location in front of the condenser might be the reason. I've seen lots of parts changed when this is the problem. Easy to overlook.
On my tribeca, the drain hose at the very tip was clogged (there is a plastic ring inside the hose that narrows the diameter of the hose) 0.5 liters of water came out)) It’s good that it didn’t spill onto the passenger floor
My friend's 2009 Forester 5-speed had a spectacular A/C failure about 6 years ago. He said he heard strange noises and smoke started pouring out from under the hood. Apparently the A/C compressor just SEIZED hardcore, and the serpentine belt kept trying to turn it and the belt started melting rubber on the pulley! The clutch got so hot that it MELTED the electrical coil and finally blew a fuse. I assume the seized compressor sent shrapnel through the entire system. I just cut the A/C belt off and he's been driving it that way ever since. Just recently made it to 250k miles, but man that car has had major issues from migrating valve guides to a release bearing failure causing a clutch explosion, to ignition coil failure and massive interior water intrusion. Oh and constant premature wheel bearing failures. He calls it his "little lemon" but hey, it still keeps going as long as the oil is topped off every 2k miles! :)
I had two A/C issues I haven't seen anyone discuss before happen in the last couple months on my current project. Installed the AC system I had lying around for awhile onto my originally non-AC 93 Impreza. Filled the system with dye as well, and ran it a little while... The Compressor seal in the middle of the compressor failed! Nobody talks about that giant O-ring. The front seal failed too, neither of which are easy to find replacement seals for, so I just replaced the whole thing. Then on the ride home after getting thr A/C system charged properly, the plastic idler pulley failed in such a way the plastic melted and stuck to the crank pulley and compressor pulley too! Had to chip off all the hardened plastic and also upgraded to a metal idler pulley and metal bracket to be safe. I think that managed to damage the new compressor though, it makes a ton of rattle-y noise now :( Not sure what lessons I learned other than "Anything that can happen, will happen" LOL
My 2004 llbean's AC button stopped working, doesn't send signal power to the relay. Have confirmed this is the issue several different ways, debating whether to fix it. It blew cold air through my road tripping last year which was great, impressed the system held up as it did.
I had a 2014 whose AC/heat stopped working. Tried everything I could think of (electric, the compressed whatever it is in the can, etc) until I took out the control module and found that the plug into it had melted.
on older foresters i believe the non auto a/c the connector behind the a/c control head are also an issue if you run it on high all the time and it ends up getting burnt on the connector and possibly control head
My 2017 Forester has the AC clutch make spinning? noise whenever it engages and the AC still works fine. Back when I had a warranty AC compressor recall at the dealership, they said they heard a problem with the AC compressor and told me to reschedule an appointment to fix it. They tried everything with the clutch including the shims, spacings, seals, and assumed that the newer models with these AC compressors was just noisy and many cars had this issue already. I saw so many videos on youtube say to replace the clutch with a new one and the noise will go away. I thought about it but I really don't have to do it let alone buy the parts.
2011 Forester, 240,00 miles, no AC, added dye to the system, couldn't find any leaks because it was leaking at the evaporator under the dash. Shop wanted $900 to replace so I did it myself, wasn't hard, took me about 2 to 3 hrs and cost with parts and recharge was under $200.
The crap part is the cost (locate the leak, parts to replace from the dealer, and all the tools/kits/supplies to evacuate the system, recover whats removed, a tank of R134 + scale to measure amount your filling to factory spec, on a sticker near the radiator.) I watches a Scotty Kilmer video and definitely something I could do but too expensive to justify the tools/equipment. I replaced a compressor on a 2006 Outback mamy years ago, just outside warranty. I bought 2 rebuilt units from AutoZone, both failed, and I swallowed hard & paid $500 for OEM. In that case, tge compressor was squealing and making major noise. System worked otherwise. Lesson: if saving money DIY, then spend the money on OEM...even used. (CV axles...always OEM!)
thanks for the video. i'm a long time tech (42 years) i'm a subaru express lead in charge of 5 guys in southern GA.i'll definitely have them watch that high side line when they change batteries out. is it feasible to put a screen across the lower grill to maybe slow down the damage of the condenser? my concern would be restricting airflow across the condenser. i have an 18 forester and my wife drives 100 miles round trip to and from work every day. i've already replaced the compressor evaporator and condenser last summer when the compressor grenaded. i'm just thinking if it would be a good idea to add some more protection to it. thanks for any input you have on this.
Thanks for the video, just in time for summer! 😊 I seem to have the compressor shaft o-ring leaking oil, don't know what to do. Local people say just replace with another one, no one to give it to for repair. 😢
wife's 16 outback A/C works well on start and the on highway but when warm and slow speed in traffic it doesn't work. Amount of gas in the system is not the issue, air flow in cabin is good, i believe condenser fan are same as engine radiator fans so they are ok, I will check it out tonight when she comes back, compressor relay? Condenser obstructed? compressor clutch and belt? it's 100+ outside during day. This car has had multiple issues, Subaru USA are made cheaply.
Problem was low level coolant in Engine radiator, my fault, I had looked at it regularly but looking from top plug seemed there was coolant in expansion tank was only coolant on bottom. Not easy to read level from the side but that is where to check level. Been 3 weeks now that level was refilled and car not loosing coolant. all good... In the process replaced serpentine belt and pulleys at 85kM
Need vid on 2014 Outback with variable displacement diagnostics. Will pump down very cold when it’s cool in the morning, change the temp from cold to warm back to cold and it pumps and stops rapidly and wont pump down and get cold.
I had a 2016 and 2019 and the only issue I had was that they were slow to actually cool, but once it actually cooled, it stayed pretty chilly. I will, say the 2019 was a hair better.
You have a vid on the variable displacement compressor on 2014 Outback? Having issue with intermittent on off with adequate refrigerant. Works in the morning when cool outside. Force the on and off by changing the interior temp requirement from max cold to max hot it them will not stay on cold requirement and rapidly cycles on and off.
Do you have a video on replacing the hvac climate control cluster ? My 2012 Outback with manual controls is on the frizt, replaced the resistor but still the speed knob only turns on ac when wiggling it
Mr. Subaru have you seen any difference between R134a and 1234YF? I got 2017 forester xt with 1234yf and i have to do ac-maintenance every two years. It passes underpressure test, but still system is leaking.
Hi Mr. Subaru, I am having a situation with my 2005 Subaru Forester 2.5x. I cannot find the expansion valve. It is not on the outside or just inside the firewall that I can find. Was wondering if you have a video that explains where and how to change the expansion valve
Hello, I am writing from Turkey. I have a 1998 model Subaru Forester. The hold button on my vehicle is blinking, and the traction control mode is malfunctioning, but no one can find the issue. Could it be a sensor problem, or where should I look? Can you help me? I need support. Which sensor could be causing this? The car is constantly running at high RPMs.
While on vacation in GA last year, my A/C stopped putting out cold air. I took it to X Dealership near Atlanta, and they replaced the compressor, etc for $1,900. The Forester had 30,000 miles on the clock. Was I ripped off?
My 2017 Forester is blowing hot air on driver side and cold on passenger side. I didn't hear you mention the core as a likely culprit but I did have the battery replaced lately. The dealer quoted $1298 to replace the "leaking" evaporator core. Could that be the cause and is the quote high?
If i had the AC recharged at the delearship, but the AC still only works when moving (i think fans not kicking on when stopped) and mind you its very cold when moving, but just blows hot air when stopped....Is there any reason to let the dealer replace the evaporator? Or is there any easier fix? Fuse or relay maybe?
Compressor drier and TXV replaced last year. - Recently ac stopped blowing cold, and the compressor spins backwards when not engaged(low side spikes over 100 psi when this happens). - 1.125lbs r134a was recovered and put back after recently replacing compressor. - Still runs hot. Old compressor had a melted something inside it on the high side (check valve maybe?) Any Ideas? I'm thinking the TXV is stuck open causing the system to run too long, then the check valve melts from running too hot.
On one of your past videos you had mentioned EGR valves and how to replace them. On my recent service of my 2020 Impreza I asked the service advisor what would the charge be to replace it and he stated at least $ 400. as shop rates are $ 200 an hour ????? I try to be proactive on anything the car needs and at 80K I figured go ahead and replace it even as the car runs fine. Question is $ 400.+ too much for this job as I thought it took maybe 45 minutes to do ??
If it’s working don’t touch it. However, it’s not that bad of a job and if you have the right tools you could remove it without pulling the manifold. Personally, I’d take off the manifold and while it’s off, I’d do a de-carb cleaning of the intake valves.
Hey, thanks heaps for the great video. I have a problem that I can’t find a solution for…. There is no signal to the AC compressor to turn on. I have checked the clutch- pass (first suspected this. I ran a wire from + terminal of the battery to the clutch signal wire and it still engaged and grabbed- pass. I checked the wire from the relay switch to the compressor- pass. I have tested the relay switch- pass. What do I do next?? Can’t find wiring diagrams online to try work out if it is a wiring issue somewhere else.(possibly impossible) Anyone have any suggestions?? I have a Subaru XV 2015
Hi MrSubaru, I noticed my AC stopped working. I noted that every time i turned it on I can hear a sound almost akin to a weird twang go off. After the AC stopped working everytime i attempt to turn the AC on it no longer makes that twang sound. Would this be indicative of the clutch not engaging or is it something else? I have a 2016 XV
I have a 2018 wrx, about a year 1/2 ago the clutch started to make the noise. It worked fine, but after letting the car sit in storage for the winter the clutch won’t engage and A/C won’t work. No leaks, refrigerant is full. Any tips?
MR subaru. I have a 2000 Subaru legacy gt limited sedan. My ac is blowing hot air .. when i turn the ac compressor on the clutch is continuously spinning and does not cycle on and off. This is where im at on it.
I have a question I was looking at my engine bay on my AC line I noticed in your video you have that greenish cap does that prevent the AC from leaking or just keep it pressurized I just looked on my Subaru noticing it's missing
On the noise of the clutch on the FA engines, would this explain a loud grinding sound on a cold start? I have the FA-20 (2015 WRX), and on a cold start there will often be a fairly loud grinding sound when the A/C clutch engages the first time. It's fairly short, and it will only happen on the first cold start of the day. If I drive to work and park for an 8 hour shift, starting the car to drive home the noise does not return until the next morning.
Mr. Subaru, where do you get your AC compressors from? After having bought what I thought were new compressors on other vehicles only to find out it was a re-manufactured, I'm always hesitant when buying compressors.
I recently replaced the o-rings in the high and low and pulled a vacuum and recharged the ac system. I noticed when removing the manifold gauge that the high pressure side was hot to touch. Is this normal? This was my first time using rhe manifold gauges
I'm currently having the issue where the wire leading to the clutch plate is not powering, I've checked the fuzes and relays, and they're fine, but the wire does not turn on when the A/C button is switched on, any thoughts, because this is annoying me to bits ahah?
My 11wrx has all new parts except the evaporator behind dash. Still gets very cold in vents according to thermometer but the fan doesn't seem to be enough to push it out. Wish a high output fan existed
@@shanestrains2849 it isnt wired backwards but i do think it has issues. The connector definitely has signs of surges. But high flow seems right. Every other setting is very low. So since high flow may not be good enough. Why spend money on another blower?
@@DustinDIY It sounds like you have a voltage drop on either the power or ground side whichever way it's controlled. I just fixed a ford e350 where low, med, medhigh was the same and high was just a little better, found a twist tape connection behind the blower switch that had corroded enough to still pass current but was pretty much green crusties all the way through the wire
Common to have issues w/ AC with a Subaru with only 1,475miles. , just leasesd a 2024 forester limited and blowing hot air after not working, then working, now back to not working .?
Hey Mr subaru. I am having an issue with extremely poor gas mileage on my 2014 legacy 2.5i. So far I have checked the air filter, replaced spark plugs, cleaned throttle body (which helped my idle issues significantly), and I have new tires all the way around (I needed those anyway). I should get 26 city, 30 highway, I get 18.3 average with a mix of city and highway driving. Any other suggestions on what I can try? I put royal purple max restore in my last tank of gas and it didn't really help.
Hopefully Mr Subaru will chime in but have you looked at the timing? Has the timing belt been changed recently? If the idler is weak the belt may have jumped a tooth.
I just tried to recharge my 2012 Impreza AC. It really seem to take much Freon at all. The compressor is making lots of noise and only the passenger side vents are blowing cool air. Why?
hi i keep getting a crank shaft position sensor error code on my 05 Bp5 .. I have changed it twice but a day later it comes back . i recently did an ECU reset by draining the power ( disconnecting the battery and tying the two terminals together for about 15 minutes) . the code cleared but came back. i had an electricals guy test the wires and we found no faults but the code still persists. (P0335)
I bought 24 wrx vb 11ks on clock drive home about 10km driving easy,,,pulled um in driveway turned off,,,and all off a sudden alot of smoke came from under the hood,,,rezalet said was normal but I'm still concerned,,,any help would be appreciated thank you
oh lord i just bought a 2001 impreza 2.5Rs n i have no ac at all. i looked a d engine n there is no belt on d ac pulley n it looks a bit rusty how hard is to intall a belt on n make it work
Taking my wife’s 21 outback to the dealership tomorrow. 65k miles and AC went out. This POS is hands down the worst car I’ve ever bought. I’ll go ahead and assume they won’t warranty it.
what a coincidence you made this when you did, i have a 2018 forester and the ac clutch squeels like all hell, i was worries i was gonna blow my ac and seenpeople online saying it could send debris into other parts causing more damage, does that sound fair or should I just let the ac squeel and hope it lasts as long as possible? @MrSubaru1387
I have a 2009 Impreza. I appreciate how you continue to reference the older Subarus in your tutorials. The differences and how to fix things on those EJ series. Thanks
Yes!
Agree 100%
Thank you, Mr. Subaru for demystifying these failure points. It really helped me check my own system for these common problems. I haven’t found another explanation of the A/C system in Subarus that is as simple and straightforward as yours.
I had the compressor clutch control relay go bad in my 2007 Outback. Easy replacement. That was three years ago and all still good.
Zip tie trick to tighten up A/C compressor cluch gap works great for me for 6+ years with my 2015 Forester XT. Still works today saved me alot of money and time.
Where can I find out how to do this? What is the zip tie trick
@@williambianco2304 ruclips.net/video/F9x6TePYs60/видео.htmlsi=zOWiEYI-zSNSMvct just like this is how I had mine rigged up to get the clutch clearance tighter.
Funny, I just replace a compressor on a fridge and I had to use zip tie to keep it from shaking because the hold down clamp is broken.
AC compressor relay:
- Common for the OEM part with age to heat up and fail.
- Symptoms: It presents as solid AC working well for the first several minutes and then just stopping, with it working again next time you drive the car, just to repeat the issue.
- Quick diagnostic: with the AC switched on but in it's failed state, remove the relay and bridge the outputs. If clutch engages again, it is likely the relay.
- Remedy. Replace with new relay; Many aftermarket ones like Narva do an excellent job.
While browsing for ratchets I randomly thought … I wish MrSubaru would do more of those “if you like this tool here’s who actually makes it and where you can get it cheaper” videos on RUclips. They seem to be a big hit, hell I’d even take a compilation upload of past shorts you did in one big video. Some of the best tools I have are from you showing where the originals came from. Still waiting to pull the trigger on some nice foreign sockets 🤣
Strong command of the language. Highly articulate. Thanks for the education.
I have a 2010 2,5 Subaru outback. Problem with the AC, at start it blows cold air but not for long, about 5 minutes and than the clutch disengages. First I checked the clutch gap, it was 0,7mm, (to big) changed it to 0,35mm. That was not the solution, then I swapped the Horn relay with the AC relay, and that solved the problem. So a bad Relay was the problem.
No way. Does it still work?
@@danielchavez4484 Yes, I ordered a new relay for the airco. The relay was the problem, airco works fine now. The relay was 14 years old, and I guess that aging made it fail, confusing was that it worked for a short time.
I am having this same problem on my 15 forester. Replaced compressor and still doing the same problem I am going to try this. God I hope it works no a/c in the south sucks.
@@bethtaylor4866 It is easy to try, good look.
@@bethtaylor4866any luck?
I bought a 2017 WRX with 26k miles and the AC compressor was already bad. I bought a used compressor from eBay for $60, had my system drained at a quick lube place for $30, installed the used compressor myself, and then had the dealership refill/lube/balance the system for $90. $180 and like 3 hours of my time to fix a dead compressor, and after that it would blow so cold it would chase me out of the car lol.
How TF do you balance the system lol
I fixed my A/C clutch last year super easy
Could you find a replacement clutch. I had to replace the entire compressor.
If the compressor won't come on I've seen several broken ambient air temp sensors. their location in front of the condenser might be the reason. I've seen lots of parts changed when this is the problem. Easy to overlook.
Definitely should be on the data pid list on any A/C diag
Thank you!!! Gotta remember that!
On my tribeca, the drain hose at the very tip was clogged (there is a plastic ring inside the hose that narrows the diameter of the hose) 0.5 liters of water came out)) It’s good that it didn’t spill onto the passenger floor
Yup , my forester has leaking compressor line O’rings.. still blows cold.. but needs them
YOU GOT THE OPTIONAL VOICEBOX!
My friend's 2009 Forester 5-speed had a spectacular A/C failure about 6 years ago. He said he heard strange noises and smoke started pouring out from under the hood. Apparently the A/C compressor just SEIZED hardcore, and the serpentine belt kept trying to turn it and the belt started melting rubber on the pulley! The clutch got so hot that it MELTED the electrical coil and finally blew a fuse. I assume the seized compressor sent shrapnel through the entire system. I just cut the A/C belt off and he's been driving it that way ever since. Just recently made it to 250k miles, but man that car has had major issues from migrating valve guides to a release bearing failure causing a clutch explosion, to ignition coil failure and massive interior water intrusion. Oh and constant premature wheel bearing failures. He calls it his "little lemon" but hey, it still keeps going as long as the oil is topped off every 2k miles! :)
It sounds like it was failing for a while but not in anyway that presented as an obvious problem. As most catastrophic failures aren't spontaneous.
I had two A/C issues I haven't seen anyone discuss before happen in the last couple months on my current project.
Installed the AC system I had lying around for awhile onto my originally non-AC 93 Impreza. Filled the system with dye as well, and ran it a little while... The Compressor seal in the middle of the compressor failed! Nobody talks about that giant O-ring. The front seal failed too, neither of which are easy to find replacement seals for, so I just replaced the whole thing.
Then on the ride home after getting thr A/C system charged properly, the plastic idler pulley failed in such a way the plastic melted and stuck to the crank pulley and compressor pulley too! Had to chip off all the hardened plastic and also upgraded to a metal idler pulley and metal bracket to be safe.
I think that managed to damage the new compressor though, it makes a ton of rattle-y noise now :(
Not sure what lessons I learned other than "Anything that can happen, will happen" LOL
I had an 07 Outback that finally died in a crash at 230k miles. Never had to touch the A/C once. Was still working great on the day it died.
2023 Subaru Impreza. A/C is a bit weak for a new car and compressor is noisy when it kicks on. Heater works like a charm.
All New style compressor are noisy
My 2004 llbean's AC button stopped working, doesn't send signal power to the relay. Have confirmed this is the issue several different ways, debating whether to fix it. It blew cold air through my road tripping last year which was great, impressed the system held up as it did.
very good video Mr. Subaru, I'll have to look out for those issues before I have any problems with my 2 Foresters 👍
I had a 2014 whose AC/heat stopped working. Tried everything I could think of (electric, the compressed whatever it is in the can, etc) until I took out the control module and found that the plug into it had melted.
on older foresters i believe the non auto a/c the connector behind the a/c control head are also an issue if you run it on high all the time and it ends up getting burnt on the connector and possibly control head
Great video. My 2013 Impreza has a zippy sound when I turn on my AC. Still working though.
My 2017 Forester has the AC clutch make spinning? noise whenever it engages and the AC still works fine. Back when I had a warranty AC compressor recall at the dealership, they said they heard a problem with the AC compressor and told me to reschedule an appointment to fix it. They tried everything with the clutch including the shims, spacings, seals, and assumed that the newer models with these AC compressors was just noisy and many cars had this issue already. I saw so many videos on youtube say to replace the clutch with a new one and the noise will go away. I thought about it but I really don't have to do it let alone buy the parts.
2011 Forester, 240,00 miles, no AC, added dye to the system, couldn't find any leaks because it was leaking at the evaporator under the dash. Shop wanted $900 to replace so I did it myself, wasn't hard, took me about 2 to 3 hrs and cost with parts and recharge was under $200.
The crap part is the cost (locate the leak, parts to replace from the dealer, and all the tools/kits/supplies to evacuate the system, recover whats removed, a tank of R134 + scale to measure amount your filling to factory spec, on a sticker near the radiator.) I watches a Scotty Kilmer video and definitely something I could do but too expensive to justify the tools/equipment.
I replaced a compressor on a 2006 Outback mamy years ago, just outside warranty. I bought 2 rebuilt units from AutoZone, both failed, and I swallowed hard & paid $500 for OEM. In that case, tge compressor was squealing and making major noise. System worked otherwise. Lesson: if saving money DIY, then spend the money on OEM...even used. (CV axles...always OEM!)
I’d love to see a evaporator core replacement 😂
That sounds like fun 😂
some subbys its fairly straight forward. you don't have to tear the dashboard all apart like on most cars made these days.
@@1heavyelement I’ve never done one on a Subaru.. ripping the dash apart on some vehicles isn’t fun at all.. usually when it’s crazy hot.
Ive seen a video for it. Its a 4-6 hour repair.
Thanks mate I appreciate the info.
The cool sooo-BAR-ooooo. Wow
thanks for the video. i'm a long time tech (42 years) i'm a subaru express lead in charge of 5 guys in southern GA.i'll definitely have them watch that high side line when they change batteries out. is it feasible to put a screen across the lower grill to maybe slow down the damage of the condenser? my concern would be restricting airflow across the condenser. i have an 18 forester and my wife drives 100 miles round trip to and from work every day. i've already replaced the compressor evaporator and condenser last summer when the compressor grenaded. i'm just thinking if it would be a good idea to add some more protection to it. thanks for any input you have on this.
A piece of fine mesh, like screen door material, would likely work.
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks that's exactly what i was thinking.
Good Info. Nice for DIYers.
Thanks for the video, just in time for summer! 😊
I seem to have the compressor shaft o-ring leaking oil, don't know what to do. Local people say just replace with another one, no one to give it to for repair. 😢
Reminds me of Chevy's 😂, at least it's easier to work on them. 🤣
Great overview- Thank you!
wife's 16 outback A/C works well on start and the on highway but when warm and slow speed in traffic it doesn't work. Amount of gas in the system is not the issue, air flow in cabin is good, i believe condenser fan are same as engine radiator fans so they are ok, I will check it out tonight when she comes back, compressor relay? Condenser obstructed? compressor clutch and belt? it's 100+ outside during day. This car has had multiple issues, Subaru USA are made cheaply.
Problem was low level coolant in Engine radiator, my fault, I had looked at it regularly but looking from top plug seemed there was coolant in expansion tank was only coolant on bottom. Not easy to read level from the side but that is where to check level. Been 3 weeks now that level was refilled and car not loosing coolant. all good... In the process replaced serpentine belt and pulleys at 85kM
Need vid on 2014 Outback with variable displacement diagnostics. Will pump down very cold when it’s cool in the morning, change the temp from cold to warm back to cold and it pumps and stops rapidly and wont pump down and get cold.
Excellent video!!!
My 2017 legacy Has had abysmal ac from day one. It was really disappointing, But if it's that hot, I'll just drive my truck with 10/10 AC
I had a 2016 and 2019 and the only issue I had was that they were slow to actually cool, but once it actually cooled, it stayed pretty chilly. I will, say the 2019 was a hair better.
You have a vid on the variable displacement compressor on 2014 Outback? Having issue with intermittent on off with adequate refrigerant. Works in the morning when cool outside. Force the on and off by changing the interior temp requirement from max cold to max hot it them will not stay on cold requirement and rapidly cycles on and off.
Mine doesnt blow cold. Pressure is good. R134a. I will check my gaps and update you.
Would this apply to the 2103 scion FRS brz?
Do you have a video on replacing the hvac climate control cluster ? My 2012 Outback with manual controls is on the frizt, replaced the resistor but still the speed knob only turns on ac when wiggling it
2015 2.5i dealership said compressor was issue. They replaced it. I get ac for a bit but not freezing and doesn't stay cold when running motor hard.
Mr. Subaru have you seen any difference between R134a and 1234YF? I got 2017 forester xt with 1234yf and i have to do ac-maintenance every two years. It passes underpressure test, but still system is leaking.
Hi Mr. Subaru, I am having a situation with my 2005 Subaru Forester 2.5x. I cannot find the expansion valve. It is not on the outside or just inside the firewall that I can find. Was wondering if you have a video that explains where and how to change the expansion valve
Lately, my Forester, when I use the A/C, the gas mileage drops and the engine seems to be struggling. 2018 Subaru that has been trouble free.
Hello, I am writing from Turkey. I have a 1998 model Subaru Forester. The hold button on my vehicle is blinking, and the traction control mode is malfunctioning, but no one can find the issue. Could it be a sensor problem, or where should I look? Can you help me? I need support. Which sensor could be causing this? The car is constantly running at high RPMs.
While on vacation in GA last year, my A/C stopped putting out cold air. I took it to X Dealership near Atlanta, and they replaced the compressor, etc for $1,900. The Forester had 30,000 miles on the clock. Was I ripped off?
My 2017 Forester is blowing hot air on driver side and cold on passenger side. I didn't hear you mention the core as a likely culprit but I did have the battery replaced lately. The dealer quoted $1298 to replace the "leaking" evaporator core. Could that be the cause and is the quote high?
what size o-rings? How many needed? 2 Schroder valves + 2 top hose fittings?
If i had the AC recharged at the delearship, but the AC still only works when moving (i think fans not kicking on when stopped) and mind you its very cold when moving, but just blows hot air when stopped....Is there any reason to let the dealer replace the evaporator? Or is there any easier fix? Fuse or relay maybe?
Compressor drier and TXV replaced last year.
- Recently ac stopped blowing cold, and the compressor spins backwards when not engaged(low side spikes over 100 psi when this happens).
- 1.125lbs r134a was recovered and put back after recently replacing compressor.
- Still runs hot. Old compressor had a melted something inside it on the high side (check valve maybe?)
Any Ideas? I'm thinking the TXV is stuck open causing the system to run too long, then the check valve melts from running too hot.
On one of your past videos you had mentioned EGR valves and how to replace them. On my recent service of my 2020 Impreza I asked the service advisor what would the charge be to replace it and he stated at least $ 400. as shop rates are $ 200 an hour ????? I try to be proactive on anything the car needs and at 80K I figured go ahead and replace it even as the car runs fine. Question is $ 400.+ too much for this job as I thought it took maybe 45 minutes to do ??
If it’s working don’t touch it. However, it’s not that bad of a job and if you have the right tools you could remove it without pulling the manifold.
Personally, I’d take off the manifold and while it’s off, I’d do a de-carb cleaning of the intake valves.
@@arthurfernandes2402 I will continue to drive until I note any problems in performance. Thanks
Hey, thanks heaps for the great video. I have a problem that I can’t find a solution for…. There is no signal to the AC compressor to turn on. I have checked the clutch- pass (first suspected this. I ran a wire from + terminal of the battery to the clutch signal wire and it still engaged and grabbed- pass. I checked the wire from the relay switch to the compressor- pass. I have tested the relay switch- pass. What do I do next?? Can’t find wiring diagrams online to try work out if it is a wiring issue somewhere else.(possibly impossible) Anyone have any suggestions?? I have a Subaru XV 2015
How do you get the cover plate off the newer compressors to attack those shims? 2015 OB 2.5
Hi MrSubaru, I noticed my AC stopped working. I noted that every time i turned it on I can hear a sound almost akin to a weird twang go off. After the AC stopped working everytime i attempt to turn the AC on it no longer makes that twang sound. Would this be indicative of the clutch not engaging or is it something else? I have a 2016 XV
What about recharging the ac on the 2003 Subaru Legacy L I can't find where to recharge the low
I have a 2018 wrx, about a year 1/2 ago the clutch started to make the noise. It worked fine, but after letting the car sit in storage for the winter the clutch won’t engage and A/C won’t work. No leaks, refrigerant is full. Any tips?
Have a 2012 Impreza, need to find a replacement for the AC pressure switch. It's 4 pin on the driver's side. Could you please help. Can't find one.
Do you recommend running the AC system all year and not just in the summer?
I have a 2010 Impreza hatchback base model, would I just use the R134a?
MR subaru. I have a 2000 Subaru legacy gt limited sedan. My ac is blowing hot air .. when i turn the ac compressor on the clutch is continuously spinning and does not cycle on and off. This is where im at on it.
I have a question I was looking at my engine bay on my AC line I noticed in your video you have that greenish cap does that prevent the AC from leaking or just keep it pressurized I just looked on my Subaru noticing it's missing
Is there a fix for the AC/Heat dial not working for levels 1 and 2? 3 and 4 are working.
On the noise of the clutch on the FA engines, would this explain a loud grinding sound on a cold start? I have the FA-20 (2015 WRX), and on a cold start there will often be a fairly loud grinding sound when the A/C clutch engages the first time. It's fairly short, and it will only happen on the first cold start of the day. If I drive to work and park for an 8 hour shift, starting the car to drive home the noise does not return until the next morning.
hello mr subaru i got a Problem with my Subaru Levorg 2017 A/C i hear clearly a strange noise from the clutch is maybe the clutch defect?
Mr. Subaru, where do you get your AC compressors from? After having bought what I thought were new compressors on other vehicles only to find out it was a re-manufactured, I'm always hesitant when buying compressors.
I recently replaced the o-rings in the high and low and pulled a vacuum and recharged the ac system. I noticed when removing the manifold gauge that the high pressure side was hot to touch. Is this normal? This was my first time using rhe manifold gauges
I'm currently having the issue where the wire leading to the clutch plate is not powering, I've checked the fuzes and relays, and they're fine, but the wire does not turn on when the A/C button is switched on, any thoughts, because this is annoying me to bits ahah?
My 11wrx has all new parts except the evaporator behind dash. Still gets very cold in vents according to thermometer but the fan doesn't seem to be enough to push it out. Wish a high output fan existed
Check your cabin filter
@@shanestrains2849 its been swapped with a high flow and none. Didnt help
@@DustinDIY Make sure they didnt wire it backwards 😁 That sucks man, I've never really diagnosed a subie with low airflow, never seen it
@@shanestrains2849 it isnt wired backwards but i do think it has issues. The connector definitely has signs of surges. But high flow seems right. Every other setting is very low. So since high flow may not be good enough. Why spend money on another blower?
@@DustinDIY It sounds like you have a voltage drop on either the power or ground side whichever way it's controlled. I just fixed a ford e350 where low, med, medhigh was the same and high was just a little better, found a twist tape connection behind the blower switch that had corroded enough to still pass current but was pretty much green crusties all the way through the wire
Hi I have a. Problem with my 2001 Subaru outback changed condenser checked fuses relays it won't turn on at all. PLEASE HELP!
Common to have issues w/ AC with a Subaru with only 1,475miles. , just leasesd a 2024 forester limited and blowing hot air after not working, then working, now back to not working .?
dealing with a 2016 forester losing signal to compressor fully charged no leak new relay new pressure sensor
I cannot find the link to the videos your mentioned in this video.
Nothing in description too
Hey Mr subaru. I am having an issue with extremely poor gas mileage on my 2014 legacy 2.5i. So far I have checked the air filter, replaced spark plugs, cleaned throttle body (which helped my idle issues significantly), and I have new tires all the way around (I needed those anyway). I should get 26 city, 30 highway, I get 18.3 average with a mix of city and highway driving. Any other suggestions on what I can try? I put royal purple max restore in my last tank of gas and it didn't really help.
Hopefully Mr Subaru will chime in but have you looked at the timing? Has the timing belt been changed recently? If the idler is weak the belt may have jumped a tooth.
2008 Forester here, my AC works great but my engine shakes/vibrates when the AC is on. any ideas?
I just tried to recharge my 2012 Impreza AC. It really seem to take much Freon at all. The compressor is making lots of noise and only the passenger side vents are blowing cool air. Why?
hi i keep getting a crank shaft position sensor error code on my 05 Bp5 .. I have changed it twice but a day later it comes back . i recently did an ECU reset by draining the power ( disconnecting the battery and tying the two terminals together for about 15 minutes) . the code cleared but came back. i had an electricals guy test the wires and we found no faults but the code still persists. (P0335)
What if your A/C blows both cold and warm? I figured when it blows hot air if I roll down the windows it began to blow cold again
Does anyone know what the hole to the right of the oil filter is for?
2012 forester AC blows warm air on drivers side and cold air
on passengers side, why?
I bought 24 wrx vb 11ks on clock drive home about 10km driving easy,,,pulled um in driveway turned off,,,and all off a sudden alot of smoke came from under the hood,,,rezalet said was normal but I'm still concerned,,,any help would be appreciated thank you
What if there are no leaks, no blockages, system is charged, and the clutch spins, and the air is still warm?
I have hot air coming out the driver side vents and cold coming out the passenger side. Help me
oh lord i just bought a 2001 impreza 2.5Rs n i have no ac at all. i looked a d engine n there is no belt on d ac pulley n it looks a bit rusty how hard is to intall a belt on n make it work
Belt was probably taken off because it was seized up
So when the Subaru dealer tells me I need a new AC compressor, do I trust them Or is it typical stealership BS? 02 bugeye wagon
My 08 Outback AC compressor clutch clicks on and off, where do I look first?
Check the Relay!
Mine will blow cold, then randomly only air will blow, then the cold air will come back... Any help is appreciated
Same with mine..
Mine did that until I replaced the relay.
Which relay?@@ScotClose
@@malkeyatsingh4312 AC relay.
+👍
I have to wonder about that little hose completely crimped and not connected to its nipple.
My clutch isn't engaging at all
My one knock about Subaru, they seem to have weak AC's
They got more problems than that but their marketing is so good. I'm not happy with mine
Taking my wife’s 21 outback to the dealership tomorrow. 65k miles and AC went out. This POS is hands down the worst car I’ve ever bought.
I’ll go ahead and assume they won’t warranty it.
......... or you can just roll the windows down.
what a coincidence you made this when you did, i have a 2018 forester and the ac clutch squeels like all hell, i was worries i was gonna blow my ac and seenpeople online saying it could send debris into other parts causing more damage, does that sound fair or should I just let the ac squeel and hope it lasts as long as possible? @MrSubaru1387