where you are mistaken is that in heating the low becomes the high and the high becomes the low,the piston is on the service valve,the high pressure is due to the high ambient and temp inside.the high pressure opens at 600.
Your right the low becomes the high, but the high stays the high. The low becomes high pressure vapor going to the inside coil to get condensed to a high pressure liquid going back to the outdoor unit to evaporate to a vapor, so the high stays the high just in the opposite flow. That's why there's a true suction port on the heat pumps.
Is it just me but almost all your videos have the outdoor capacitor in a box? Don't you folks out there know how to use plumber strap? Still I love the videos.
On a heat pump a bad txv in heating mode is outside at the condenser and the indoor txv if for cooling. Why did you look at the indoor txv for heating?
Pressures led me there. You can run it in cooling and check. Or check all three pressure points, subcooling - temps. I may not have shown all the steps.
@@HVACGUY I thought I had a bad outdoor txv last week on a Goodman two stage communicating System with a error code of L1 High pressure lockout but it took almost a hour for the pressure slowly rise for the pressure switch to trip it. Come to find out it was air flow with high static pressure and not enough return air.
You can always tell when a TXV is about to go out completely when in AC mode and the high side is good on pressure but that low side will stay just below freezing.... The high side shows your charge would be good, but that low side proves the restriction is restricted too much thus the head or spring is wore out one. Usually the outdoor ones shut off completely. Pumping unit down and pressuring out on high side one... Also, just unplug ya fan and put that "O" on red, that is doing the same as defrost... Engaging summer/cool setting minus fan. Saves time instead of trying to trick the board etc.
NO GUYS!!! The piston CAN clog UNI-directionally. Remember, the piston, in HEAT mode, only passes refrigerant through it's center HOLE orifice. In COOL it passes BOTH through the hole AND AROUND the piston's SIDE SLOTS TOO!!!!! CHECK THE PISTON FIRST!!!!!!!
@@mikelewis4260 YES, BUT, only ONE kind of metering device us 'usually' in place, at each coil. Most heat pumps have a TXV indoors for metering the a/c evaporator coil, and a piston outdoors for reverse flow metering during heating mode. Rarely is there more than one metering device at a coil.
That's definitely a restricted filter. You really shouldn't have more than a 2 degree temp drop pre to post filter. A 10 degree drop would be indicative of a clogged/restricted filter. Not saying this is the sole cause of your problem, but that "significant" of a drop indicates a restriction in the filter (i.e. it's full). Now as to why it's full is a whole 'nother episode. lol
WHOA!! What about the carrier heat pump "piston". It could be clogging up, while in heat mode, from debri caught on the piston side of the drier, or decomposing line drier particulates. The piston is right after the line drier. Run it in heat mode until pressure overshoots, shut it down, SUCK IT DOWN, pull the piston, SEE the DEBRI stuck in the piston!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If that were the case, it woulda pumped down in cool. Low head and suction in cool. I thought of it. Also, running it in heat, I woulda had high pressures on both sides, not just one.
@@HVACGUY NO GUYS!!! The piston CAN clog UNI-directionally. Remember, the piston, in HEAT mode, only passes refrigerant through it's center HOLE orifice. In COOL it passes BOTH through the hole AND AROUND the piston's SIDE SLOTS TOO!!!!! CHECK THE PISTON FIRST!!!!!!!
@@nohackacman4407 IF TXV gets replaced, your gonna replace the line filter ANYWAY. CHK PISTON FIRST. Run it till it clogs, shut it down, suck it down, pull the piston, LOOK AT IT and its seat. YOU MUST RUN IT IN HEAT TO CLOG IT, TO SEE IT. If you run it in COOL, it self UNCLOGS.
Thank ypu for showing us what a restricted txv can look like. I see this all the time where the liquid line is completely frozen and the evap coil
some times you have it on r22 scale reading high temps,and other times using the blue temp on the hot line.
where you are mistaken is that in heating the low becomes the high and the high becomes the low,the piston is on the service valve,the high pressure is due to the high ambient and temp inside.the high pressure opens at 600.
Your right the low becomes the high, but the high stays the high. The low becomes high pressure vapor going to the inside coil to get condensed to a high pressure liquid going back to the outdoor unit to evaporate to a vapor, so the high stays the high just in the opposite flow. That's why there's a true suction port on the heat pumps.
Is it just me but almost all your videos have the outdoor capacitor in a box? Don't you folks out there know how to use plumber strap? Still I love the videos.
On a heat pump a bad txv in heating mode is outside at the condenser and the indoor txv if for cooling. Why did you look at the indoor txv for heating?
That rule of thumb is not always true, and wasn’t in this case.
Pressures led me there. You can run it in cooling and check. Or check all three pressure points, subcooling - temps. I may not have shown all the steps.
@@HVACGUY
I thought I had a bad outdoor txv last week on a Goodman two stage communicating System with a error code of L1 High pressure lockout but it took almost a hour for the pressure slowly rise for the pressure switch to trip it. Come to find out it was air flow with high static pressure and not enough return air.
I have a 5 ton Goodman heat pump that cools fine but short cycles in heat. It's a new system. Can you explain why it doesn't short cycle in cool?
You can always tell when a TXV is about to go out completely when in AC mode and the high side is good on pressure but that low side will stay just below freezing....
The high side shows your charge would be good, but that low side proves the restriction is restricted too much thus the head or spring is wore out one.
Usually the outdoor ones shut off completely. Pumping unit down and pressuring out on high side one...
Also, just unplug ya fan and put that "O" on red, that is doing the same as defrost... Engaging summer/cool setting minus fan. Saves time instead of trying to trick the board etc.
I had a 5 ton Lennox that had pressure for 50deg at 391/105.
the inside exp does not regulate in heat,check valve only full flow.
Keep them coming 👍🏻
NO GUYS!!! The piston CAN clog UNI-directionally. Remember, the piston, in HEAT mode, only passes refrigerant through it's center HOLE orifice. In COOL it passes BOTH through the hole AND AROUND the piston's SIDE SLOTS TOO!!!!! CHECK THE PISTON FIRST!!!!!!!
Ok so your saying it's ok to have a piston and a txv on the same system? I'm confused by your comment.
@@mikelewis4260 YES, BUT, only ONE kind of metering device us 'usually' in place, at each coil. Most heat pumps have a TXV indoors for metering the a/c evaporator coil, and a piston outdoors for reverse flow metering during heating mode. Rarely is there more than one metering device at a coil.
That's definitely a restricted filter. You really shouldn't have more than a 2 degree temp drop pre to post filter. A 10 degree drop would be indicative of a clogged/restricted filter. Not saying this is the sole cause of your problem, but that "significant" of a drop indicates a restriction in the filter (i.e. it's full). Now as to why it's full is a whole 'nother episode. lol
WHOA!! What about the carrier heat pump "piston". It could be clogging up, while in heat mode, from debri caught on the piston side of the drier, or decomposing line drier particulates. The piston is right after the line drier. Run it in heat mode until pressure overshoots, shut it down, SUCK IT DOWN, pull the piston, SEE the DEBRI stuck in the piston!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If that were the case, it woulda pumped down in cool. Low head and suction in cool. I thought of it. Also, running it in heat, I woulda had high pressures on both sides, not just one.
He’s right. It would pump down in cool.
@@HVACGUY NO GUYS!!! The piston CAN clog UNI-directionally. Remember, the piston, in HEAT mode, only passes refrigerant through it's center HOLE orifice. In COOL it passes BOTH through the hole AND AROUND the piston's SIDE SLOTS TOO!!!!! CHECK THE PISTON FIRST!!!!!!!
If I get the job I’ll check first. If you’re right, I won’t hesitate to say when I’m wrong. Lord knows, I’ve been wrong before.
@@nohackacman4407 IF TXV gets replaced, your gonna replace the line filter ANYWAY. CHK PISTON FIRST. Run it till it clogs, shut it down, suck it down, pull the piston, LOOK AT IT and its seat. YOU MUST RUN IT IN HEAT TO CLOG IT, TO SEE IT. If you run it in COOL, it self UNCLOGS.