Awesome job with the glass/sandpaper idea! Y'all should invest in a medium to large metal lathe/mill! At about $1000 bucks a pop you could do everything in house, I know it's a big investment but if your into restoring older stuff lathes and Mills are a life saver! Even small hobby ones like the little red on at Harbor freight. Mine has already paid for itself 5 times over in rare parts I've used it to make! Then with a mill you can fly cut blocks, heads, and pretty much any mating surfaces. I even upgraded my shop with a small propane forge and a metal furnace! The sky's the limit when you can melt down 50-70ish crushed pop cans just for the hell of it, then pour them in a piston mold and machine to make a perfect match for an old Elsinore! It was so cool knowing that the engine was running because of a bunch of recycled cans and not some half-assed made piston in China
Awesome! I just bought a km24 in Kerrville today! Can't wait to get it going. You wouldn't believe what garbage came out if it. Mud daubers, leaves, all kinds of stuff.
Awesome! I just bought a km24 in Kerrville today! Can't wait to get it going. You wouldn't believe what garbage came out if it. Mud daubers, leaves, all kinds of stuff.
I will tell you a trick that I used on a few rotary Sacks engines. I used a surface plate to make the faces literally perfect. There is more work doing the surface plate but the results are just phenomenal. The reason the rotor dug in is because of looser tolerances of the air cooled engine. I can tell you that if you warm up the engine that will not happen. I always liked these engines. The torque is really nice for sure. Job well done fella too. Peace vf
Great job guys! I love your rotary builds. I owned several Mazdas in the 70’s and I loved the rotary engines. Keep up good work. And it’s great to keep them out of scrap yard!
For motorcycle use, you better put front side rear, intake in rear plate, to avoid overheating of Rotor rear side, transfer port in front, for having some cooling of mix, the Norton concept, it will be under air flow from fan, improving BMEP. If you find the right pump, injecting fresh air into exhaust port, as in 1980s Mazda 13B, makes wonders. Gesund +
Brrrraaaaaappppp!!!😍 You should be able to find someone capable of building the damaged spots up with weld, then once it's machined it will be practically new.
The rotary guys! Always nice seeing a channel form its own conceptual style. All your builds are pretty well built. Now they are well built and ROTARY. World's 1st. 🤜🤛
After hearing that roar to life,a song came to mind.Then you said you were putting it in the quad frame and,"Danger Zone" was going full on too.LOL.Please stretch the trailing arm before you ride.You will be on your back in a second otherwise.Have fun guys !
SAE journal had an article about cleaning two stroke exhaust, it are similar to Wankel in using an air/ fuel mix in the rich side, and oil in fuel for lubrication. Lead had a solid lubricant action, for unleaded gas, Wankel would not need more than 80 RON fuel, 4% oil in gas is required, and a MoS2 additive (LiquiMoly, 1 cc per litre of mix). Wankel improves with E5 and E10 fuels. Blessings +
you can braze up the pitting at home with a torch and some brazing rod, then its easy to lap back down with your glass piece because the braze is softer than the iron housing so it will flatten out easily.
Way to guys. Great job on the engine work. Just to let you know a good quality mirror is flatter that window or plate glass. The less wavy a mirror is the flatter it is. I was in the mirror business for over 30 years the mirror is just a coating put on the back of very flat glass sometimes called float glass.
Easiest old school rotary resurfacing method is to get the 2 plates and put valve grinding compound paste between them. Rub the 2 mating plates together to resurface.
This is awesome, look up DIY cylinder head resurfacing if you read this. I bedded a piece of tempered glass to steel plate with epoxy, glass is almost perfectly flat. Then I use just a wisp of 3m spray adhesive on sand paper gluing it face up on glass. Its ghetto as hell but works amazing for small engine stuff.
No need to put grease on the roller bearings, just some 2 stroke oil will do as the fuel oil mix will lubricate the bearings. I lap the plates on a surface plate with 1200 paper as the plate had a bronze color type plating,on your side plates i can not see any plating.
Machinist in Australia here: getting those side plates machined flat shouldn't cost you a fortune since that's not a difficult job to do, especially if you guys make a jig so it's easier for said machinist to mount it flat and parallel to the machined surface on their machine Also, a thread file is fairly cheap off eBay and would allow you to easily clean up the ends of threads like the end of the eccentric shaft where you used the castle but backwards
On those water spots that have eroded the aluminum or magnesium which is what I actually believe it is I would have totally filled that with J-B Weld and then sanded it to give a smooth finish and gave it a great seal
Sachs Wankels had an Aluminum, plus Copper, plus Silicium alloy, to provide wear resistence and low thermal dilatation. The good housing working surface plating is Nikasil; very good results were obtained with ferrotic apex seals; for side seals, IKA is good enough.
Old Fart Here: The problem with the Sachs rotary snowmobile engines of 1966 to 1975 was the early two stroke snowmobile oils just did not burn clean enough for the fussy apex seals. Modern Snowmobile two cycle oils are a huge leap ahead. It was common after two seasons with the old stuff to need to do a complete overhaul and de carbonization. New premix synthetic two cycle oils will push that out to several more seasons between overhauls.
Should find that ratcheting socket adapter like Mustie1's got and just skip the pullstart for testing on this thing until you finish building the vehicle...make for a way quicker start given you got a solid drill to spin that epic little doritobox with
Any chance you could tell us more about that carb? I have a couple of these engines and I know none of them have that style carb on it. Make, size, jets? Maybe do a video on tuning it?
and that cooling fan ... does it act as a flywheel at the same time or why is it such a heavy thing ? they coulda used something made of plastic ... mutch lighter and better for reving and fuel consumption
Man... If I'd known how simple these are to get apart, I might still have an RX7. I actually centrifugally exploded the clutch by downshifting it at speed! Replaced that. But, soon after, it started to lose compression. Someone suggested pouring brake fluid into the carb, and that was pretty much the only way it would start, in the end. You wanna see a HUGE cloud of smoke? Try it.
The part that makes the Mazda ones a bit harder to work on are the rubber seals keeping the water out of the cylinder, even the tiniest scratch and it’s burning coolant
Where’s rob dahm or the Vargas brothers when you need them? If you ask rob nicely and pay appropriately he might dowel the rotaries for you. I’m sure the allure of making parts that don’t exist will be too strong for him
3:00 definitely get in contact with rob dahm. If there’s anyone who will custom machine stuff for an obscure rotary? It’s that guy. Rob is like sriracha, he doesn’t need to advertise, you’ll simply find him when you were meant to
Absolutely nothing if it runs I’ll swing by and take it off your hands. Nah just kidding. Good running 295s 300 to 500 bucks ball park. My favorite wankel powered snowmobiles are the 1970 to 1972 Panther 303, Arctic Lynx 303 1971. 1975 Arctic Cheetah 295. The sleds complete are actually becoming quite collectible. Nice 1972 Panthers 303 can go for 1500 bucks. This is my only slightly more than they sold for fall 1971. So the hobby is at break even mode.
Cat made from 1968 to 1974 about 20,000 303 Panthers, about 3000 303/295 Lynx, about 3000 1975 295 Cheetahs. After the purchase contract with Sachs ended with the completion of the 1975 builds, cat went all piston two cycles for 1976 models.
I hate to say it but these too young college gurus don't seem to give a crap about their RUclips viewers from this one video from what i think it was a month ago I can't find any responses from them only from other viewers that have watched the video commenting to each other:-(
![NOSFERATU - Official Trailer [HD] - Only In Theaters December 25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nulvWqYUM8k/mqdefault.jpg)
very cool, I still think you should turbo it, low compression rotor housings just leave more room for boost.
Air cooled engine and boost usually ends badly. Peace vf
@@victoryfirst2878 true, but if you can get enough air flow, it works ok
Methanol will cool it down 😆
The engine sounds good! Nice to see your rotary fleet form.
Awesome job with the glass/sandpaper idea! Y'all should invest in a medium to large metal lathe/mill! At about $1000 bucks a pop you could do everything in house, I know it's a big investment but if your into restoring older stuff lathes and Mills are a life saver! Even small hobby ones like the little red on at Harbor freight. Mine has already paid for itself 5 times over in rare parts I've used it to make! Then with a mill you can fly cut blocks, heads, and pretty much any mating surfaces. I even upgraded my shop with a small propane forge and a metal furnace! The sky's the limit when you can melt down 50-70ish crushed pop cans just for the hell of it, then pour them in a piston mold and machine to make a perfect match for an old Elsinore! It was so cool knowing that the engine was running because of a bunch of recycled cans and not some half-assed made piston in China
Awesome! I just bought a km24 in Kerrville today! Can't wait to get it going. You wouldn't believe what garbage came out if it. Mud daubers, leaves, all kinds of stuff.
Awesome! I just bought a km24 in Kerrville today! Can't wait to get it going. You wouldn't believe what garbage came out if it. Mud daubers, leaves, all kinds of stuff.
I love to see young people building and working on stuff!! Great job!
I will tell you a trick that I used on a few rotary Sacks engines. I used a surface plate to make the faces literally perfect. There is more work doing the surface plate but the results are just phenomenal. The reason the rotor dug in is because of looser tolerances of the air cooled engine. I can tell you that if you warm up the engine that will not happen. I always liked these engines. The torque is really nice for sure. Job well done fella too. Peace vf
Great job guys! I love your rotary builds. I owned several Mazdas in the 70’s and I loved the rotary engines. Keep up good work. And it’s great to keep them out of scrap yard!
For motorcycle use, you better put front side rear, intake in rear plate, to avoid overheating of Rotor rear side, transfer port in front, for having some cooling of mix, the Norton concept, it will be under air flow from fan, improving BMEP.
If you find the right pump, injecting fresh air into exhaust port, as in 1980s Mazda 13B, makes wonders.
Gesund +
Brrrraaaaaappppp!!!😍 You should be able to find someone capable of building the damaged spots up with weld, then once it's machined it will be practically new.
The rotary guys! Always nice seeing a channel form its own conceptual style. All your builds are pretty well built. Now they are well built and ROTARY. World's 1st. 🤜🤛
After hearing that roar to life,a song came to mind.Then you said you were putting it in the quad frame and,"Danger Zone" was going full on too.LOL.Please stretch the trailing arm before you ride.You will be on your back in a second otherwise.Have fun guys !
SAE journal had an article about cleaning two stroke exhaust, it are similar to Wankel in using an air/ fuel mix in the rich side, and oil in fuel for lubrication.
Lead had a solid lubricant action, for unleaded gas, Wankel would not need more than 80 RON fuel, 4% oil in gas is required, and a MoS2 additive (LiquiMoly, 1 cc per litre of mix). Wankel improves with E5 and E10 fuels. Blessings +
Busch's aluminum wash will brighten that thing up with one spray and rinse.
I'm really interested in this build. I don't know anything about rotery engines but u have my attention. Cool build 💪🏼
you can braze up the pitting at home with a torch and some brazing rod, then its easy to lap back down with your glass piece because the braze is softer than the iron housing so it will flatten out easily.
To me it visibly looked like the housing was made of Aluminium, I could be wrong.
Way to guys. Great job on the engine work. Just to let you know a good quality mirror is flatter that window or plate glass. The less wavy a mirror is the flatter it is. I was in the mirror business for over 30 years the mirror is just a coating put on the back of very flat glass sometimes called float glass.
With Nice expansión chamber that engine go sound very Nice racing
Thanks for all your Rotary Engine work and content, I think it has a lot of way more untapped potential.
"I would not trust this thing turbocharged" - 10:51
lmao
NOICE!! That thing friggin braps man. Love it. Can't wait to see it in the ATV!
I have a RX-8 13b love it. That sounds great. Can't wait to see y'all build it up.
Pump some marvel mystery oil down around the crank seal. For next time 👌
Man that thing sounded great! 👍
Easiest old school rotary resurfacing method is to get the 2 plates and put valve grinding compound paste between them. Rub the 2 mating plates together to resurface.
Sounding pretty healthy now. It will be interesting to see how you mount it up on the ATV. Doritos forever man!😁
I love you guys, and the engine it purrs like a cat.
This is awesome, look up DIY cylinder head resurfacing if you read this. I bedded a piece of tempered glass to steel plate with epoxy, glass is almost perfectly flat. Then I use just a wisp of 3m spray adhesive on sand paper gluing it face up on glass. Its ghetto as hell but works amazing for small engine stuff.
Let's go! Love that sound!
No need to put grease on the roller bearings, just some 2 stroke oil will do as the fuel oil mix will lubricate the bearings. I lap the plates on a surface plate with 1200 paper as the plate had a bronze color type plating,on your side plates i can not see any plating.
❤ This Channel! I have seen a few snowmobiles lately up in Wisconsin and one in Iowa. I will get my hands on one!!
a thread file might help with the damaged threads on the crank
Machinist in Australia here: getting those side plates machined flat shouldn't cost you a fortune since that's not a difficult job to do, especially if you guys make a jig so it's easier for said machinist to mount it flat and parallel to the machined surface on their machine
Also, a thread file is fairly cheap off eBay and would allow you to easily clean up the ends of threads like the end of the eccentric shaft where you used the castle but backwards
On those water spots that have eroded the aluminum or magnesium which is what I actually believe it is I would have totally filled that with J-B Weld and then sanded it to give a smooth finish and gave it a great seal
Sachs Wankels had an Aluminum, plus Copper, plus Silicium alloy, to provide wear resistence and low thermal dilatation.
The good housing working surface plating is Nikasil; very good results were obtained with ferrotic apex seals; for side seals, IKA is good enough.
Awesome job getting this far on the old beaut, hopefully it’ll do exactly what you need but seriously I’d definitely turbocharge this thing 😉
Outstanding
Well done!
I could be mistaken but I think by lapping that cover you also removed the Nikasil coating...
One rotor rotaries are just seeming cooler and cooler!
Old Fart Here: The problem with the Sachs rotary snowmobile engines of 1966 to 1975 was the early two stroke snowmobile oils just did not burn clean enough for the fussy apex seals. Modern Snowmobile two cycle oils are a huge leap ahead. It was common after two seasons with the old stuff to need to do a complete overhaul and de carbonization. New premix synthetic two cycle oils will push that out to several more seasons between overhauls.
Need to PRELUBE all moving parts also!
Good job
Should find that ratcheting socket adapter like Mustie1's got and just skip the pullstart for testing on this thing until you finish building the vehicle...make for a way quicker start given you got a solid drill to spin that epic little doritobox with
I wonder if you jb welded or liquid steel it cure it then sand it flat I've used it on old Japanese mainly Honda gas tanks and never had a problem
We use devcon to block the ports on all our 13b and neva fails
Put a 2 stroke exhaust on it I feel like it might give you some more low end torque
Sounds so good! Let's goooo!
Can you modify this engine like port it and other stuff?
Its alive!
Any chance you could tell us more about that carb? I have a couple of these engines and I know none of them have that style carb on it. Make, size, jets? Maybe do a video on tuning it?
Next time I’m in the garage I’ll get some info for you!
@@BuildBreakRepeat awesome thank you
Paused at 3:49
“I knew she was mad for a reason”
If you had a die nut,. You could chase those chipped threads,. Be best to, then you can run the castle but correctly
@build break reapeat hey guys next time use super glue to glue the 2 piece apex seals together when u rebuild a rotary!
and that cooling fan ... does it act as a flywheel at the same time or why is it such a heavy thing ? they coulda used something made of plastic ... mutch lighter and better for reving and fuel consumption
could have used a bigger piece of glass and evenly sanded the whole surface; this will keep the whole surface flat like it should be
Man... If I'd known how simple these are to get apart, I might still have an RX7. I actually centrifugally exploded the clutch by downshifting it at speed! Replaced that. But, soon after, it started to lose compression. Someone suggested pouring brake fluid into the carb, and that was pretty much the only way it would start, in the end. You wanna see a HUGE cloud of smoke? Try it.
The part that makes the Mazda ones a bit harder to work on are the rubber seals keeping the water out of the cylinder, even the tiniest scratch and it’s burning coolant
DARN good job >
How did you get the seal off the gear side to get the e-shaft out?
Should have filled the deep pits with some tack welds, ground it down, then lapped them.
I’m actually looking for a small rotary engine like this one for my mini drift atv project based of a 80 Yamaha moto 4 80
So sick! Are you guys still working on the electric kart? Or are you done with it
Where’s rob dahm or the Vargas brothers when you need them?
If you ask rob nicely and pay appropriately he might dowel the rotaries for you. I’m sure the allure of making parts that don’t exist will be too strong for him
3:00 definitely get in contact with rob dahm. If there’s anyone who will custom machine stuff for an obscure rotary? It’s that guy.
Rob is like sriracha, he doesn’t need to advertise, you’ll simply find him when you were meant to
Please turbo it! It would be awesome! 🔥🔥🔥
Need a die to run on the threads and repair them so you can run the nut on properly
Hey guys! Could I get some info on that pull start you used?? A link?
i love you.
port and turbo it :)
Bruh did you not poot any oil or anything on the walls of the router housing
Hit up Rob Dahm. Maybe he can machine it for you.
would porting eliminate some of the scoring?
❤❤❤
Can you tell where I can get one rotor motor for 4 weeler
Where can I get one of those engines??
Remember guys........ KM24 swapped Sachs G3... 😎
im waiting for you to just buy a suzuki RE5, a factory rotary motorcycle
I have one of these what is the value of it?
Absolutely nothing if it runs I’ll swing by and take it off your hands. Nah just kidding. Good running 295s 300 to 500 bucks ball park. My favorite wankel powered snowmobiles are the 1970 to 1972 Panther 303, Arctic Lynx 303 1971. 1975 Arctic Cheetah 295. The sleds complete are actually becoming quite collectible. Nice 1972 Panthers 303 can go for 1500 bucks. This is my only slightly more than they sold for fall 1971. So the hobby is at break even mode.
Cat made from 1968 to 1974 about 20,000 303 Panthers, about 3000 303/295 Lynx, about 3000 1975 295 Cheetahs. After the purchase contract with Sachs ended with the completion of the 1975 builds, cat went all piston two cycles for 1976 models.
Mmmmm
A for effort. F in execution
I hate to say it but these too young college gurus don't seem to give a crap about their RUclips viewers from this one video from what i think it was a month ago I can't find any responses from them only from other viewers that have watched the video commenting to each other:-(
Clean your parts better!