I'm following your build. I am using components from a running 1939 frame to transfer to a set of 32 frame rails. That height you show is right for me!
That looks like an awfully small section of rail to carry the whole rear suspension. I know you are going to box it, but I'd be tempted to use a thick piece of steel for the boxing plate and extend it forward quite a bit.
The frame boxing will actually be flanged / C shaped boxing plates that will be a tight fit into the length of the frame and tie into the X bracing in the center of the frame. That should really help with the strength. I'd never just leave a notch like this without bracing.
I'm doing recessed channeled boxing plates on this one so a little stronger and more of a pain to make but should do the job. A plate would be a lot easier and quicker though! Haha
The welder I'm using is the Eastwood TIG 200 Digital and it has a 4t setting to set up all of the steps of the welding process (including pulse) and you can run the machine off of the finger switch. Pretty handy for out of position welding!
Mr.Matt Do you or any of your followers, have any tricks on how to R &R a rear leaf spring on a banjo rear end. I'm having to change out some outer axle tubes. And I don't want to kill myself in the process. Thanks Tony
Yep! I've had the shear for a couple years now and mainly only cut 1/8" plate on it. It's rated for 3/16" in small pieces so it is holding up well. Thanks for watching. -Matt/ITG
Matt is going for more of a traditional hot rod look and he likes to use original Henry Ford parts with a little custom twist. Thanks for watching!! -Mike/ITG
I liked all of your work until we got to the frame notches. The front notches are not pretty but all they have to carry is the frame horns in front of the spring perch no big deal structurally but not great aesthetics. The rear notches are a different story. They carry the whole rear end. Even if they're strong enough It's a shame to have wimpy-looking support for the differential that has to deliver Cadillac power to the ground.
Love that artwork on your welding helmet, Matt!
I'm following your build. I am using components from a running 1939 frame to transfer to a set of 32 frame rails. That height you show is right for me!
Tanx for you videos! Its keep me inspired! Great Work!
It looks good the way it is
I was really surprised when you didn't make a piece to weld to inside of that frame to strengthen where you removed material it.
That looks like an awfully small section of rail to carry the whole rear suspension. I know you are going to box it, but I'd be tempted to use a thick piece of steel for the boxing plate and extend it forward quite a bit.
The frame boxing will actually be flanged / C shaped boxing plates that will be a tight fit into the length of the frame and tie into the X bracing in the center of the frame. That should really help with the strength. I'd never just leave a notch like this without bracing.
A "C" shaped plate should do the trick.
I'm doing recessed channeled boxing plates on this one so a little stronger and more of a pain to make but should do the job. A plate would be a lot easier and quicker though! Haha
keep up the good work.
Looking good
Badass dude. 🙂
Nice
Are you going to box,or step box the frame?
The 32 Frame is bobbed how much? Is it just after the rear crossmember?
I’m a welding dummy how do you use a tig welder without a pedal?
The welder I'm using is the Eastwood TIG 200 Digital and it has a 4t setting to set up all of the steps of the welding process (including pulse) and you can run the machine off of the finger switch. Pretty handy for out of position welding!
Thumb control on the torch.
Mr.Matt
Do you or any of your followers, have any tricks on how to R &R a rear leaf spring on a banjo rear end. I'm having to change out some outer axle tubes. And I don't want to kill myself in the process. Thanks Tony
By R&R you mean remove and replace? We have done a videos showing the tricks on taking apart a spring pack.
@@IronTrapGarage can you help me find it. Many thanks.
It will be fine after the spring a d rearend are off the frame. The spring won't be loaded.
r u still on ur first blade on ur hand shear since u cut 1/8th on it ?
Yep! I've had the shear for a couple years now and mainly only cut 1/8" plate on it. It's rated for 3/16" in small pieces so it is holding up well. Thanks for watching. -Matt/ITG
Hi is the high boy just a stock body on the chassis or cut and lowered over the diff
Hi-boy is when the body sits on top on the frame.
How much cut out over the diff thanks
,
You have to notch the inner fender panel for the rear axle and spring.
Why not flip the chassis rails upside down and have an under slung chassis like an Austin Healey?
Matt is going for more of a traditional hot rod look and he likes to use original Henry Ford parts with a little custom twist. Thanks for watching!! -Mike/ITG
Why aren't you using the plasma cutter
I liked all of your work until we got to the frame notches. The front notches are not pretty but all they have to carry is the frame horns in front of the spring perch no big deal structurally but not great aesthetics. The rear notches are a different story. They carry the whole rear end. Even if they're strong enough It's a shame to have wimpy-looking support for the differential that has to deliver Cadillac power to the ground.
intro song name please