I want to say a big THANK YOU to Eastwood and to Matt for making these videos. Yes, I know Eastwood is trying to sell their products but the videos are great and very informative. And I have bought several things from Eastwood so that's got to be good for them too right? Just nice to have them show you how to make a nice frame table and then how to use it properly as well as all the other fabrication videos.
this is actually a pretty informative video for 12 minutes. If only I had a big enough garage to build a car like this or to even house the tools I need
there is a living space right behind the garage. at best, I can replace my hot water heater with an on-demand system so I can knock down a small part of the wall and recess in a shop compressor. I barely have enough room to rebuild one car but once I start yanking parts off the car, the basement level will be full of car parts. and I can't just buy another home since I only just bought this one
+Joshua Szeto - I know there are places you can rent for a low cost in order to do things like this. Co-ops are another option. If you have enough guys in a similar situation, you can get together and start a build co-op. Best of luck to you! I hope you get to build one someday! Nothing like building your first car.
+Suedzville fortunately (or not) the car I am rebuilding is a unibody so I don't need to find a place to put the body while I reinforce the frame I don't have a ton of space to put the engine or transmission
So awesome to see all this info, coming from a family that was not into hot rods, more just small mods to their 70's and 80's muscle cars, finally can see all the info I need to get on my way with this 1948 Dodge Panel Truck. Wicked info, thanks
I found the video informative. Just what I needed to make get up and start using all the old parts laying around. Time to rebuild Dad's roadster back to the way it was in 61. Thanks for doing this and other videos with the older cars.
I love what ya'll do. Love watching the vehicle projects. It's difficult to follow the builds because the videos are scattered all over. I wish you had a playlist per vehicle. Thanks for the videos!
+asdf jkl; There are playlists for the Mustang, 78 Camaro, Model A and Pilehouse Truck. You should be able to find them on the Eastwood Channel or in a RUclips search.
No problem, I would love to watch the whole build but there must be bazillion uploads on the channel and I just give up after a while when I can't find them.
Hi , I know this is an old video,I have seen it over and over .I love the work you did,and do now with Iro Trap. Can I get this information in a book form. I dont have a Model A. I lost that deal. But I want to build a rolling chassis. I'm a huge fan.
That welder looks pretty good and is pretty cheap for what it is and the welds it makes and you have proof it is a welder capable of making a chassis. I have seen people try to repair a frame with a harbor freight 90 amp mig. The welds do not hold up to that kind of weight. I have seen tests where people have hit the welds with a HF machine with a hammer to prove it is strong or stand on it but when it comes to a chassis an HF welder can neither build or repair the frame of a car. For those who don't know. Notice the gas bottle behind the welder and then you automatically know he is running a 220v mig with gas and solid wire. Why is he doing it that way? Because the machine produces not only better welds but also strong welds and he is not producing any spatter so by using a good machine he is welding something he knows will hold up and is not subject to any scrutiny. HF welders are good for things like spot welding body panels and pretty much any 22 to 16 ga sheet steel, It can also produce a weld on lower caliber firearms and depending on the structure of how the gun is made could also be used for up to the .45 ACP or 9mm rounds as long as it is a submachine gun configuration comparable to the sten. HF welder is a light duty welder so do not ask it to do more than it can do. Oh and they are also excellent for if you mess up a hole placement when you are drilling it can weld the hole closed and allow you to relocate the hole. I would also go as far as to say the HF welder could also repair sections of a unibody car that does not have the traditional frame and that is simply because they us intelligently bend sheet metal to form rocker panels and so forth so the steel used in a unibody car is very much within the 22 to 16ga realm. I have actually never seen a rocker panel over 16ga thick (by that I mean the rocker support not the external panel). If its the only welder a person can afford and you simply cannot go out and buy a better machine or a new car or can't afford to have a shop do it for you then by all means attempt a fix with the HF welder even if it is on a car frame because logic tells you even a HF weld from a 90 amp mig is better than just letting it go and is also stronger than the void that rotted out.
little almost everyone dosent know besides me and car experts that i made a model t during sixth with my friend riley and probably the most popular for a month. we still do burnouts with that car today.
as a welder I have to wonder how safe that chassis is, I didn't see any beveling before you welded, vertical down does not penetrate very well and not plating the top of the relief cuts is a bad idea since you ground all the weld off
+Evan Hardie That type of chassis would never pass engineering approval for use here in Australia..cutting the tubes then welding back up without doublers to reinforce it. bending , rather than cutting and welding to help keep the structural integrity of the tubing would the requirements at the minimum,along with appropriate stengthening in all stressed area's.no offence to you guys there but I'd never buy one like that knowing how it was made.
+catey62 I get where you're coming from but typically rat rods aren't built for safety haha. they're dangerous rust buckets which is part of the apeal. but yea it could be made a lot better.
Ford Model A. When Hydroforming steel was at the heart of car building. NHTSA in 2022, made a decision that reproduction factory built classics can be sold as new. Retro will only get bigger and better now.
This is so helpful to me i like hot rod i injoy driveing my car i joyed takeing it from junk to driveable eveyone always ask me why did you buy it for and told them i am going to build me a hot rod
So a Model A frame flare out towards the rear. I see you didn't do this. I'm guessing that it's because you aren't going to use stock body mounting. I made relief cuts much like you did to accomplish the flare out. I drilled 1/8 holes at the front of the frame on each rail across from one another. I used these as my zero mark to properly position all body mount holes and crossmember locations. I worked for Freightliner and that's the way frames are built at our factories. I had a stock frame that was in bad shape, rust and cracks, but it was square. I also drilled 1/8 holes in it at the same location and used trammel a trammel bar to transfer locations.
Nice Job, We saw a lot of measuring and bending, but, , Ya never mentioned where you got your dimensions and geometry from.. Do you have blueprints for a Model A, or, , maybe copied another one, , or is it by looks, fit and gut feeling..?? .. SIZE matters..
How does he know how long the frame needs to be? and how does he know how much of an angle he needs? was he looking at blueprint's? how do I get these blueprint's? :o
The frame length is set by the wheel base and body you choose. The angle is chosen by the look and drop of the frame that you want. I used a mixture of stock 1932 Ford and Ford Model A measurements to start off of and then went from there. Hope that helps.
Matt, how thick is the metal you are using for the frame on the 1930 coupe? Would recommend using 1/8 inch thickness for a street rod frame? Thanks for your answer in advance.
Hey Eastwood Company. I am new to welding. I heard that tig welding is ideal for this type of job; however, I see that you are using a mig welder. Is your mig welder just as good as a tig welder? Am I getting wrong information? Thanks for your time.
When welding TIG and MIG on steel there really isn't much a difference for the average user. You can get much more precise with a TIG and sometimes more penetration but for a basic frame like this its what ever. MIG is easier to pick up though. TIG has a bigger learning curve cause you have to worry about gas flow, cup sizes, filler metals, tungsten, use 2 hands and a foot, etc. Mig you just set the gas/wire speed/ power and pull the trigger.
Hi guys! Just found this topic from your channel. My question is. Will my chassis lose their regidness once it was welded and replace a part from a donor chassis?
Eh, A bit of information, but a lot of misinformation. The front frame horns show a distinct lack of penetration, and the welds for the swoop you didn't bevel at all. Also, not a single fish plate in that rear kick. Build it, but build it safe!
Great, he's building a classic hot rod, not an autocross car, it a straight axle car! Sure a four link would hold the caster, but it's not traditional. He's running an old flathead, probably won't see over 60 mph, and not going to be a canyon carver. Your point is taken, but not really relevant here.
Hey I gotta know, if I were to purchase an already built chassis, with an engine mounted, could I get away with not welding? Reason being is that stuff is expensive and I’d rather avoid it if I can
What if I wanted to use the trunk? And have a mean rake on it so ass up nose down but not too low? Also why are y’all doing structural welding with MIG? I do want to build a rat rod but not sure what years are exempt from having to have hoods and fenders and which are too new.
Custom projects are going to require non-conventional thinking when solving problems - such as lowering while keeping interior/trunk space. This is intended as a guide - there's lots of different ways to approach any project. A MIG welder is fine for structural as long as it has the capability to weld the material. The MIG 180 (updated 175) can weld 5/16" steel which is more than needed for this project. Laws for hot rods will vary state to state and on the registration of the vehicle (normal vs hot rod vs antique)
+Darkkheart420 Yes. We sell just about everything you need to restore a car - welders, paint, paint guns, plasma cutters, hand tools, powder coating supplies, soda and abrasive blasting supplies, rust solutions, metal fab tools, buffing supplies, specialty tools and paints, etc. There's a lot more tools and supplies on our website than in our catalog. www.eastwood.com
It all depends on the weight of the vehicle and what you want to do with it. We used 3x2 ..25 wall, which is a little overkill for the engine in it, but will allow upgrades in the future if I ever decided to put something else heavier in it for drivetrain.
Do you use the original rear axle from the model A ? I want to put a 350 cut smallblock in my model A but I am unsure if the rear axle is strong enough to take the forces. Thanks
There's always risks associated with any custom work, but there are procedures to strengthen and improve upon original specs. For example these frames we're open C channel from the factory, upgrading to box tubing, or boxing the factory frame will improve it's strength. Yes this frame can handle the power fine.
For all the effort of building new frame rails you could've Z'd it, used a front drop axle, and got the car equally low. You'd have preserved the original interior space and lowered the weight of the engine and transmission, producing a better handling, more comfortable and more stable car. I'll never understand why present day hot rod builders insist on using the worst solutions possible for every problem and handwaving it as "traditional". OG hot rodding was about innovation and coming up with the best solution you could afford to implement!
Hi and thanks for your vids they are good question , if I wanted the body for a 32 convertible at high boy lines is the frame angles you show here right for this car I see you channeled this body low where's I want higher and hi boy lines thanks
Hi, The angles I referenced were to give the frame a gentle "flow" or kickup in the front. The springs you use, rolling wheel/tire diameter, and other things will factor into the overall height of the vehicle.
now the real question...whats the dmv gonna think? one of the reasons ive given up on doing something like this. my state doesnt have the SEMA laws....
SUBSCRIBE to be ENTERED to WIN a brand new MIG 180 welder! New and old subs are entered into the pool to win!
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Eastwood makes products and creates a larger market for itself through informational and instructional videos. Pretty smart business model.
I want to say a big THANK YOU to Eastwood and to Matt for making these videos. Yes, I know Eastwood is trying to sell their products but the videos are great and very informative. And I have bought several things from Eastwood so that's got to be good for them too right? Just nice to have them show you how to make a nice frame table and then how to use it properly as well as all the other fabrication videos.
this is actually a pretty informative video for 12 minutes. If only I had a big enough garage to build a car like this or to even house the tools I need
+Joshua Szeto time to build a bigger garage or an addition. :)
I wish I could. I live in a townhouse with a house on both sides so I can't even expand if I wanted to.
there is a living space right behind the garage. at best, I can replace my hot water heater with an on-demand system so I can knock down a small part of the wall and recess in a shop compressor. I barely have enough room to rebuild one car but once I start yanking parts off the car, the basement level will be full of car parts. and I can't just buy another home since I only just bought this one
+Joshua Szeto - I know there are places you can rent for a low cost in order to do things like this. Co-ops are another option. If you have enough guys in a similar situation, you can get together and start a build co-op. Best of luck to you! I hope you get to build one someday! Nothing like building your first car.
+Suedzville fortunately (or not) the car I am rebuilding is a unibody so I don't need to find a place to put the body while I reinforce the frame I don't have a ton of space to put the engine or transmission
So awesome to see all this info, coming from a family that was not into hot rods, more just small mods to their 70's and 80's muscle cars, finally can see all the info I need to get on my way with this 1948 Dodge Panel Truck. Wicked info, thanks
Nice to see competent MIG welding. MIG is often a cheap process and not often done so well.
I found the video informative. Just what I needed to make get up and start using all the old parts laying around. Time to rebuild Dad's roadster back to the way it was in 61. Thanks for doing this and other videos with the older cars.
Practice , practice, and practice. It can be done. My co workers sound like you. All i can say is steady hand and practice
This video series is exactly what I need! Thanks Eastwood, please keep it going!
This guy has a perfect voice for doing demos
It's amazing how simple vehicles were
With how cheap these tools are, there's nothing stopping people bringing this back, but dropping in modern fuel efficient engines instead.
@@RandyRandersonthefamous even electric motors
safety is a concern though. Less accidents happened purely because there weren't that much vehicles around
@@RandyRandersonthefamous this with a geo metro 3 cyl would be pretty cool.
I love what ya'll do. Love watching the vehicle projects. It's difficult to follow the builds because the videos are scattered all over. I wish you had a playlist per vehicle. Thanks for the videos!
+asdf jkl; There are playlists for the Mustang, 78 Camaro, Model A and Pilehouse Truck. You should be able to find them on the Eastwood Channel or in a RUclips search.
+Eastwood Company Nope, I just went through the playlists. the one for the Model A is 1 video this one. There are no playlists for the other ones.
+Jack Allen thanks for the backup......
No problem, I would love to watch the whole build but there must be bazillion uploads on the channel and I just give up after a while when I can't find them.
Very useful info without any fluff. Mad respect, I'm subscribed for sure.
Never to old to learn from the pros! thank you great vid.
Matt, great video as usual. Thanks to you and the Eastwood team.
Another great video Matt and the rest of the Eastwood guys! Thanks for doing these.
Hi , I know this is an old video,I have seen it over and over .I love the work you did,and do now with Iro Trap. Can I get this information in a book form. I dont have a Model A. I lost that deal. But I want to build a rolling chassis. I'm a huge fan.
That welder looks pretty good and is pretty cheap for what it is and the welds it makes and you have proof it is a welder capable of making a chassis.
I have seen people try to repair a frame with a harbor freight 90 amp mig. The welds do not hold up to that kind of weight. I have seen tests where people have hit the welds with a HF machine with a hammer to prove it is strong or stand on it but when it comes to a chassis an HF welder can neither build or repair the frame of a car. For those who don't know. Notice the gas bottle behind the welder and then you automatically know he is running a 220v mig with gas and solid wire. Why is he doing it that way? Because the machine produces not only better welds but also strong welds and he is not producing any spatter so by using a good machine he is welding something he knows will hold up and is not subject to any scrutiny.
HF welders are good for things like spot welding body panels and pretty much any 22 to 16 ga sheet steel, It can also produce a weld on lower caliber firearms and depending on the structure of how the gun is made could also be used for up to the .45 ACP or 9mm rounds as long as it is a submachine gun configuration comparable to the sten. HF welder is a light duty welder so do not ask it to do more than it can do. Oh and they are also excellent for if you mess up a hole placement when you are drilling it can weld the hole closed and allow you to relocate the hole. I would also go as far as to say the HF welder could also repair sections of a unibody car that does not have the traditional frame and that is simply because they us intelligently bend sheet metal to form rocker panels and so forth so the steel used in a unibody car is very much within the 22 to 16ga realm. I have actually never seen a rocker panel over 16ga thick (by that I mean the rocker support not the external panel).
If its the only welder a person can afford and you simply cannot go out and buy a better machine or a new car or can't afford to have a shop do it for you then by all means attempt a fix with the HF welder even if it is on a car frame because logic tells you even a HF weld from a 90 amp mig is better than just letting it go and is also stronger than the void that rotted out.
Really enjoyed this. Very clear and easy to understand.
i was thinking same .here in the uk we have to go all out or not at all nice go cart shassis tho
little almost everyone dosent know besides me and car experts that i made a model t during sixth with my friend riley and probably the most popular for a month. we still do burnouts with that car today.
i meant it dosent take twelve mins btw
atleast two weeks
as a welder I have to wonder how safe that chassis is, I didn't see any beveling before you welded, vertical down does not penetrate very well and not plating the top of the relief cuts is a bad idea since you ground all the weld off
if you look close when he did the front bend it looks to be beveled. but yea I would definitely add in some plates over the seams.
+Evan Hardie That type of chassis would never pass engineering approval for use here in Australia..cutting the tubes then welding back up without doublers to reinforce it. bending , rather than cutting and welding to help keep the structural integrity of the tubing would the requirements at the minimum,along with appropriate stengthening in all stressed area's.no offence to you guys there but I'd never buy one like that knowing how it was made.
+catey62 you won't offend me I'm Canadian and that wouldn't fly either,
+catey62 I get where you're coming from but typically rat rods aren't built for safety haha. they're dangerous rust buckets which is part of the apeal. but yea it could be made a lot better.
I'd trust that frame more than a motorcycle.
Eastwood sells some great stuff!
Love watching builds
That is the Mona Lisa of hot rods
I love this video, one day I'll be doing this for my Dodge Panel Van. Like your pilot house, but the Panel model
Cool how did you do it
i KNEW I'd seen that Iron Trap Garage dude from somewhere !!!
Ford Model A. When Hydroforming steel was at the heart of car building. NHTSA in 2022, made a decision that reproduction factory built classics can be sold as new.
Retro will only get bigger and better now.
Great vid. Maybe i missed it but what steel did you use?
I love Eastwood
Are there written instructions with measurements available?
wish i was doing this 15 years ago when i had a full shop & equipment instead of wrapping lowrider frames :(
This is so helpful to me i like hot rod i injoy driveing my car i joyed takeing it from junk to driveable eveyone always ask me why did you buy it for and told them i am going to build me a hot rod
Where can I get plans to build this frame ?
Great video! When offsetting the frame why didn't you pie cut the first joint instead of all the thin cuts and extra welding?
This is awesome! Great video and killer build! Congratz Eastwood guys... Question: where to find measure to build the chassis?
Is there any way to get a copy of those chassis plans/blueprints? Thanks
Guess not
Google “model A hot rod chassis blue prints” might help 😊
I knew I recognized him! Iron trap
So a Model A frame flare out towards the rear. I see you didn't do this. I'm guessing that it's because you aren't going to use stock body mounting. I made relief cuts much like you did to accomplish the flare out. I drilled 1/8 holes at the front of the frame on each rail across from one another. I used these as my zero mark to properly position all body mount holes and crossmember locations. I worked for Freightliner and that's the way frames are built at our factories. I had a stock frame that was in bad shape, rust and cracks, but it was square. I also drilled 1/8 holes in it at the same location and used trammel a trammel bar to transfer locations.
11:17 The rails are spread to angle.
what length is rectangular tubing is for making the chassis
Do you guys have a video about taking a pre-existing chassis and extending it a few inches?
We haven't had a project where we lengthened an existing chassis. Thanks for watching our videos!
Sir pls sent video about how the monocoque chassis are manufactured
Nice Job, We saw a lot of measuring and bending, but, , Ya never mentioned where you got your dimensions and geometry from.. Do you have blueprints for a Model A, or, , maybe copied another one, , or is it by looks, fit and gut feeling..?? .. SIZE matters..
What is the strongest type of chassis for collisions? would it be Ladder or Diagonal beamed chassis?
Is it road legal to make your own chassis? and drive it on the road?
How does he know how long the frame needs to be? and how does he know how much of an angle he needs? was he looking at blueprint's? how do I get these blueprint's? :o
The frame length is set by the wheel base and body you choose. The angle is chosen by the look and drop of the frame that you want. I used a mixture of stock 1932 Ford and Ford Model A measurements to start off of and then went from there. Hope that helps.
hi what tools do i need and how do you make it and how do you shape it
Hello, thank you...if you can explain about the type of profile and alloy, I would appreciate it
Matt, how thick is the metal you are using for the frame on the 1930 coupe? Would recommend using 1/8 inch thickness for a street rod frame? Thanks for your answer in advance.
Dwight Travis yes, 1/8 is good.
Any way to get a blue print for the chassis?
Real accurate, using a felt pen and bad weld preparation.
Hi. Are the plans available? I'm interested
What kind of material is the tubing does it have to be chrome molly steel please reply
2:17 . .. just wondering if that is 100 wall For the frame rails
I will be doing a 1934 Pontiac sedan.. with a 400 / 400 turbo.
I wanna do this
Oh this frame an original 1930 model A pickup.
Hey Eastwood Company. I am new to welding. I heard that tig welding is ideal for this type of job; however, I see that you are using a mig welder. Is your mig welder just as good as a tig welder? Am I getting wrong information? Thanks for your time.
When welding TIG and MIG on steel there really isn't much a difference for the average user. You can get much more precise with a TIG and sometimes more penetration but for a basic frame like this its what ever. MIG is easier to pick up though. TIG has a bigger learning curve cause you have to worry about gas flow, cup sizes, filler metals, tungsten, use 2 hands and a foot, etc. Mig you just set the gas/wire speed/ power and pull the trigger.
I must admit that despite that being the crudest chassis ever the size and thickness of tubes make it just passable from a technical point of view.
Are the dimensions available for purchase or download as PDF anywhere? great video!
Can you give me the measurements for the engine mounts. Motor will be 350 Chevy, thanks
You know what would be awesome. a modern frame with a beast of an engine and exposed springs mached with a old bodey.
So essentially one of those Factory 5 kit cars?
If there is any such thing as a PhD in metal fabrication, I think this is what it looks like. Matt, did you learn that in High School Shop Class?
I'm watching this on Rust Bros show - right now! let's see how they compare
Hi guys! Just found this topic from your channel.
My question is. Will my chassis lose their regidness once it was welded and replace a part from a donor chassis?
Looks awesome! That's why the fabricator is so expensive...
Wat if i cant get the equipment you used... I just need a simplified chasis with home made tools
Where do you get the axles and wheels from and how much were they ?
How much caster did you set on the front crossmember?
We set the cross member/spring perch at 6 degrees caster. Hope that helps. -Matt/EW
What kind of welding did you use ??
Have you a set of drawing for this chassis .measurements etc
Is suspension also a chassis part???
Great Video!!
Is that Matt Murray?
Which material it's chassis made of
Eh, A bit of information, but a lot of misinformation. The front frame horns show a distinct lack of penetration, and the welds for the swoop you didn't bevel at all. Also, not a single fish plate in that rear kick. Build it, but build it safe!
Yes you are right they would not license that in Australia
Bought a car in NSW last week, mechanic said he can't register it because it has four wheels.
Jim Piver Exactly how don’t they work? Thousands of hot rods are running around on split wishbones that “don’t work”.......
Great, he's building a classic hot rod, not an autocross car, it a straight axle car! Sure a four link would hold the caster, but it's not traditional. He's running an old flathead, probably won't see over 60 mph, and not going to be a canyon carver. Your point is taken, but not really relevant here.
So why don't you just explain it? I'm interested.
Vou fazer um desse aí agora
I really want to know how to build a hotrod.
is there a way I could buy a chassis from you
Ong it’s Matt 😂 iron trap garage never realised
What Metal do you use?
Stell of what type?
Hey I gotta know, if I were to purchase an already built chassis, with an engine mounted, could I get away with not welding? Reason being is that stuff is expensive and I’d rather avoid it if I can
What if I wanted to use the trunk? And have a mean rake on it so ass up nose down but not too low? Also why are y’all doing structural welding with MIG? I do want to build a rat rod but not sure what years are exempt from having to have hoods and fenders and which are too new.
Custom projects are going to require non-conventional thinking when solving problems - such as lowering while keeping interior/trunk space. This is intended as a guide - there's lots of different ways to approach any project.
A MIG welder is fine for structural as long as it has the capability to weld the material. The MIG 180 (updated 175) can weld 5/16" steel which is more than needed for this project.
Laws for hot rods will vary state to state and on the registration of the vehicle (normal vs hot rod vs antique)
so this is the eastwood that sells car stuff body and paint? the one with the catalog?
+Darkkheart420 Yes. We sell just about everything you need to restore a car - welders, paint, paint guns, plasma cutters, hand tools, powder coating supplies, soda and abrasive blasting supplies, rust solutions, metal fab tools, buffing supplies, specialty tools and paints, etc. There's a lot more tools and supplies on our website than in our catalog. www.eastwood.com
what's the best metal to use in I frme making?
It all depends on the weight of the vehicle and what you want to do with it. We used 3x2 ..25 wall, which is a little overkill for the engine in it, but will allow upgrades in the future if I ever decided to put something else heavier in it for drivetrain.
Do you use the original rear axle from the model A ? I want to put a 350 cut smallblock in my model A but I am unsure if the rear axle is strong enough to take the forces. Thanks
No. Use a 9" or independent setup or torsion bar setup
Is it a good idea to build a frame out of aluminum instead of steal?
DangerRoad3M3 I,am gonna go with no.
Does cutting and welding the frame weaken the overall integrity? Can it handle the horse power of a decent motor?
There's always risks associated with any custom work, but there are procedures to strengthen and improve upon original specs. For example these frames we're open C channel from the factory, upgrading to box tubing, or boxing the factory frame will improve it's strength.
Yes this frame can handle the power fine.
For all the effort of building new frame rails you could've Z'd it, used a front drop axle, and got the car equally low. You'd have preserved the original interior space and lowered the weight of the engine and transmission, producing a better handling, more comfortable and more stable car.
I'll never understand why present day hot rod builders insist on using the worst solutions possible for every problem and handwaving it as "traditional". OG hot rodding was about innovation and coming up with the best solution you could afford to implement!
What are you using for tubing size 2x3 and wall thickness .188" or .250"???
+letssled The tubing is 2x3 with .250 wall thickness.
what steel for frame??
In America do you have to send these for stress testing for pass road legal safety requirements?
Hi and thanks for your vids they are good question , if I wanted the body for a 32 convertible at high boy lines is the frame angles you show here right for this car I see you channeled this body low where's I want higher and hi boy lines thanks
Hi, The angles I referenced were to give the frame a gentle "flow" or kickup in the front. The springs you use, rolling wheel/tire diameter, and other things will factor into the overall height of the vehicle.
The pie cut in the front , right behind the cross member , would raise the front , not lower it .
great job
Is the mig 175 welder good for making a tube chassis? Im new to welding and dont really understand what machine I need
The MIG 175 can handle steel up to 1/4".
this is the best
That's awesome
Where can I buy the angle device with magnetic base?
+coelhoteixeira You can get them at Sears, off of eBay, Harbor Freight Tools or you could probably get one from your local auto parts.
Hi,thanks for the answer,I`ll try in Ebay.
now the real question...whats the dmv gonna think? one of the reasons ive given up on doing something like this. my state doesnt have the SEMA laws....
is that 8mm thick tube ?
It's .25". (1/4")