Using it right now in my QK65 R2. I don't know if it's the king but it definitely thock. It doesn't really need filming but I still filmed them anyway for the more focused bottom out sound.
Have them as well and they are night and day difference after lubing+filming and they thock more than black inks v2 and feel significantly better imo. 10/10 would recommend if you like deep and muted switches. Also do note that the rgb becomes more orange toned due to the housing lmao
I was initially disappointed in the ticking noise, and I’ve never wanted to bother filming due to the time involved, but damn did it ever make a difference on mine! The resulting sound is so polished and deep, I can use it at work without having to resort to silent switches.
Nice review, but these actually are long pole. The P3 stem is shorter than stems like Creams, but these switches still bottom out on the pole. Why do they still have full 4 mm travel? Because the bottom housing has more space to accommodate the stem.
Thanks for the info! I replied to a different comment that the stem in the epsilons are 13mm, while creams have a 13.42mm stem. I always equate long pole with a reduced travel distance, which is what I believe causes the clacky sound signature. But I never gave much thought about what a long pole switch should actually be, haha! Because I guess based on my own definition a cream shouldn’t be a long pole switch as it doesn’t have a reduced travel either. Now you guys have given me something to ponder…
@@MakerMods Indeed! Creams also don't have reduced travel. I attribute the signature sound of long pole switches to the actual pole bottom out, not the reduced travel itself. But that definition can really change based on perspective! Imagine a hypothetical scenario where a switch would have a higher bottom housing post, causing both pole bottom out and reduced travel. That would sound like what we're used to in terms of long poles, but would it be classified as such? Or more like short housing haha
Seriously!! That would be the issue with a haimu housing and a cherry stem, lol! I think as stems have grown longer… these are monster that we’ve created!!! :P
I’ll take a look! I’ve never tried aflion switches before so I’m definitely intrigued. I wonder if they’re being hand lubed in china or here in the states…
is there any difference between JWK epsilon without PREVAIL font on top housing and without it? because i got some of them without and with PREVAIL font on it housing 🤣
You mentioned the rattle that is common in jwk switches. Do you know what exactly is the cause of this and how to fix it? That same rattle appears in my mauves and I really want to get rid of it
Hi! So I talk about it at the end of my review but basically I think it’s a combination of spring and leaf noise. What I’ve found works is to lube the springs with a light coat of 205g0, then lube the back of the leaf near the bend as well. That seems to fix the majority of the noise. I’ve tried dissecting JWK switches to find out exactly where it’s coming from, and I think their leaf design is a little loose in the bottom housing, which can introduce that rattle sound. My other hypothesis is the metal they’re using for their leaf is not the greatest, which is why their switches consistently hover around the .55-60 mark compared to gaterons, for example, which generally cost more. That being said even budget gateron switches don’t have the rattle problem, so that leads me to think it’s really the leaf/bottom housing design itself. Hope this helps!
@@MakerMods Thank you so much! Yeah I was wondering because I lubed the leaf and springs already assuming it was from them, and the rattle was still present ever so slightly, so I was wondering if maybe I did something wrong.
@@williamteng5924 for some reason reply comments don't show up on my mobile app, but maybe that's a good thing because what I'm about to recommend is sacrilege to almost everyone, HAHA! I've found........ that when the noise just won't go away, try SLIGHTLY lubing the leaf contact point where the stem leg hits, and usually that will fix the problem! Also for those problem switches I lube the bend of the leaf, but I also lube the entire back of the leaf all the way down into the bottom housing. You just need to be careful not to get lube in between the contact points on the leaf (where the front of the leaf contacts the rear of the leaf due to the actuation of the stem) and you're good! I'd try those mods one at a time until the noise is gone. Also, I lube JWK springs with 205g0 becuase I've found that bag lubing/lubing with a lighter oil doesn't do enough to get rid of the sound!
I have a lot of boards, but I chose the Polaris as my tester due to its overall neutral sound so you can hear the true switch sound, if that makes sense? I have no foam in the board for the same reason. But if you have a type of board you’d like to hear them in I can see what I’ve got!
Epsilons and Quartz are nearly the same price from my local distributors (too bad the quarts are out of stock now) But in that case which will you go for?
The quartz is longer pole, but they’re both good switches! I think I prefer the sound of the epsilons but a lot of that could be the shorter pole stem leading to a deeper sound.
Hey! So I measured the stem length and it’s 13mm, while a cherry Mx black is 12.5mm, while a nk cream is 13.42mm. So although it is longer than the cherry Mx black, I don’t know if I’d consider it a long pole, especially considering stems are getting as long as 13.9mm with the KNC green jackets, haha!
@@MakerMods I may be mistaken but the pole still makes contact with the bottom housing, which in turn makes it act like a long pole. They also dont have the full 4mm travel distiance iirc.
i'm using epsilon at the moment, my friend who got me in keebs recommend it, and it is my first switch. Love it
Epsilons are a great switch!! Plus if you’re ever curious the long stem is great for FRANKE switching!
Using it right now in my QK65 R2. I don't know if it's the king but it definitely thock. It doesn't really need filming but I still filmed them anyway for the more focused bottom out sound.
Have them as well and they are night and day difference after lubing+filming and they thock more than black inks v2 and feel significantly better imo. 10/10 would recommend if you like deep and muted switches. Also do note that the rgb becomes more orange toned due to the housing lmao
I was initially disappointed in the ticking noise, and I’ve never wanted to bother filming due to the time involved, but damn did it ever make a difference on mine!
The resulting sound is so polished and deep, I can use it at work without having to resort to silent switches.
Definitely, these were honestly so surprising in how nice they were!!
I wasn't going to lube and film these but I guess I will now! Looking forward to building them.
I thought these were long pole? I avoided these because I thought they were long pole!
wait, I thought epislons are long pole? lol
Nice review, but these actually are long pole. The P3 stem is shorter than stems like Creams, but these switches still bottom out on the pole. Why do they still have full 4 mm travel? Because the bottom housing has more space to accommodate the stem.
Thanks for the info! I replied to a different comment that the stem in the epsilons are 13mm, while creams have a 13.42mm stem. I always equate long pole with a reduced travel distance, which is what I believe causes the clacky sound signature. But I never gave much thought about what a long pole switch should actually be, haha! Because I guess based on my own definition a cream shouldn’t be a long pole switch as it doesn’t have a reduced travel either. Now you guys have given me something to ponder…
@@MakerMods Indeed! Creams also don't have reduced travel. I attribute the signature sound of long pole switches to the actual pole bottom out, not the reduced travel itself. But that definition can really change based on perspective! Imagine a hypothetical scenario where a switch would have a higher bottom housing post, causing both pole bottom out and reduced travel. That would sound like what we're used to in terms of long poles, but would it be classified as such? Or more like short housing haha
Seriously!! That would be the issue with a haimu housing and a cherry stem, lol! I think as stems have grown longer… these are monster that we’ve created!!! :P
@@MakerMods bluebonnets also long poles with regular travel (well 3.9mm) as well. Good thing as I still cannot daily anything less than 3.7mm :||
Those look pretty nice. Are you planning on reviewing the KFA N2O (Laughing Gas) Switches? Id love to know if theyre any good
I’ll take a look! I’ve never tried aflion switches before so I’m definitely intrigued. I wonder if they’re being hand lubed in china or here in the states…
@@MakerMods Im curious about them too. Hopefully we will know more soon
so are you gunna try the thic thock marshmallows?
I’ve been trying to find them but they’re OOS in USA!! :’(
@@MakerMods damn i want to get them too so that suck for both of us
@@MakerMods i just looked and it says in stock on thic thocks website
@@Andrew-ng3sc really do they take a long time to ship?
is there any difference between JWK epsilon without PREVAIL font on top housing and without it? because i got some of them without and with PREVAIL font on it housing 🤣
These are great but I really like the KNC red jackets (OG version) for thocc
Ooh I haven’t tried the red jackets yet! I’ll check them out!
@@MakerMods They just restocked them not too long ago. But they are slightly different molds and stuff now, compared to the OG ones but still great!
You mentioned the rattle that is common in jwk switches. Do you know what exactly is the cause of this and how to fix it? That same rattle appears in my mauves and I really want to get rid of it
Hi! So I talk about it at the end of my review but basically I think it’s a combination of spring and leaf noise. What I’ve found works is to lube the springs with a light coat of 205g0, then lube the back of the leaf near the bend as well. That seems to fix the majority of the noise. I’ve tried dissecting JWK switches to find out exactly where it’s coming from, and I think their leaf design is a little loose in the bottom housing, which can introduce that rattle sound. My other hypothesis is the metal they’re using for their leaf is not the greatest, which is why their switches consistently hover around the .55-60 mark compared to gaterons, for example, which generally cost more. That being said even budget gateron switches don’t have the rattle problem, so that leads me to think it’s really the leaf/bottom housing design itself. Hope this helps!
@@MakerMods Thank you so much! Yeah I was wondering because I lubed the leaf and springs already assuming it was from them, and the rattle was still present ever so slightly, so I was wondering if maybe I did something wrong.
@@williamteng5924 for some reason reply comments don't show up on my mobile app, but maybe that's a good thing because what I'm about to recommend is sacrilege to almost everyone, HAHA! I've found........ that when the noise just won't go away, try SLIGHTLY lubing the leaf contact point where the stem leg hits, and usually that will fix the problem! Also for those problem switches I lube the bend of the leaf, but I also lube the entire back of the leaf all the way down into the bottom housing. You just need to be careful not to get lube in between the contact points on the leaf (where the front of the leaf contacts the rear of the leaf due to the actuation of the stem) and you're good! I'd try those mods one at a time until the noise is gone. Also, I lube JWK springs with 205g0 becuase I've found that bag lubing/lubing with a lighter oil doesn't do enough to get rid of the sound!
@@MakerMods No worries, understandable lol. I will certainly give it shot, thanks a lot maker mods!
Do you have any other boards to try the switches on? This board sounds quite hollow and mades most of the switches sound pingy imo.
I have a lot of boards, but I chose the Polaris as my tester due to its overall neutral sound so you can hear the true switch sound, if that makes sense? I have no foam in the board for the same reason. But if you have a type of board you’d like to hear them in I can see what I’ve got!
Epsilons and Quartz are nearly the same price from my local distributors (too bad the quarts are out of stock now)
But in that case which will you go for?
The quartz is longer pole, but they’re both good switches! I think I prefer the sound of the epsilons but a lot of that could be the shorter pole stem leading to a deeper sound.
rose quartz epsilon clear????
Link is to an ad
Would love a vid about the Boba LT switches
I'll try to check them out! I have a sampler but it's only like 20 switches, so not enough for a full build :/
is this switches need lubing?
These are actually long pole
Hey! So I measured the stem length and it’s 13mm, while a cherry Mx black is 12.5mm, while a nk cream is 13.42mm. So although it is longer than the cherry Mx black, I don’t know if I’d consider it a long pole, especially considering stems are getting as long as 13.9mm with the KNC green jackets, haha!
@@MakerMods I may be mistaken but the pole still makes contact with the bottom housing, which in turn makes it act like a long pole. They also dont have the full 4mm travel distiance iirc.
@@BokehhBob Crap.... well I guess I'll have to try them out and decide. I generally don't like long pole because of the harsh bottom out
check out feker matchas! they're so smooth stock almost like they're hand lubed and very thocky. and they're pretty cheap too
Ooooh I've heard great things about feker; thanks for the rec!
epsilon or boba LT?
I’ve only tried a few samples of boba LT (not a full board) but they are more on the clacky side!
@@MakerMods ohhh. What about epsilon, oil kings or nebula?
Review north poles pls. Ty
Sorry for the late reply but I'll check them out!!!!