It depends on the stove, the wood, and the operator. Most EPA 3 cu ft stoves will easily provide an overnight burn without smoldering as long as the wood is fully seasoned. In milder weather our stove goes about 12 hrs between reloads. In 16 yrs of burning we have never had a creosote build up issue. Typically we get about a cup of soot and sote with an annual cleaning.
I do generally leave my air intake wide open at least until the fire is down to just a bed of coals, then if I'm going to go sleep or something I will almost close it just to a sliver because I know once it cools it becomes a good way for cold air to downdraft into the house, but the wood is mostly burned by that point. Plus I think the less air actually extends the "life" of the hot coals so if I come back hours later it might be easier to get going again.
Great vid and info. I've burned wood @ 35 yrs, and 100% agree. Well seasoned wood and 'just enough' air can work well, but it has to be its best setting. Even with decently well sesoned wood, when I go from a hot burn (valves open), to only @ 1/4 open each, it almost chokes it out completely, and after a while, wet creosote water sometimes drips at a low point of the stove pipe. Now, I set both valves @ 1full turn open, ea. It's always has hot coals in the morning, on and under the ashes. It happens to be just like the stove dad/we had growing up, a Fisher papa bear. I like the idea of reburners, but idk. My stove has a plate inside, just below the opening, like its designed to reburn anything on the horizontal plate, but not sure. We have great draft control, (best I've seen). Thanks for this vid, helping keep things in mind and perspective.👍 Edit: I have a sweep kit and clean as necessary, but it does fantastic with the right air intake setting. I've experimented alot with it tho. Be extra safe if you're new to burning as primary heat.
Not sure what wood your customers use. But where I live in Canada I only and I mean only use hard wood!!! I close the throttle and damper once the coals are glowing under the wood I load.. it burns from 9 pm until I get up at 4am, which leaves me a nice bed of coals that is still producing enough heat that I just load it and it is back up to temp within 15 minutes. Also never had build up in my chimney, I usually open it up every 2 months during the season and rarely have to clean it more than once per season. People burning pine and spruce will defiantly have this issue, I also rarely have smoke coming from my chimney, usually just a heat wave.
Funny story. Just cleaned my 35 ft of stovepipe after at least 5 years. It was barely drafting. I got a 5 gallon bucket full of creosote chunks and flakes and a 4 inch bird's nest.
You're generalizing all wood burn ing stoves is doing a disservice. It is absolutely possible to burn through the night, 12 hours to 24 hours sometimes more, in stoves & inserts made to do just that. It depends on the stove you're using. And this can be done with consistent 1/3 of a coffee can of fine fly ash to a very fine coffee ground like ash or less at clean out at the end of each season. Instead if using typical fear tactics, why not advise about the importance of the acceptable moisture content of wood being burnt, to avoid creosote build up. Even using a moisture meter and how to split and check a fresh split at room temperature? The differences of old "smoke dragons" and new/newer EPA approved stoves that are much more efficient, and use much less wood to achieve the same heating capabilities, as long as the wood is down to 20% or lower moisture level. There are thousands in the western states whom only have fir , pine etc. to burn, and get overnight heating from their stoves, with very little build up of ash, and no detrimental creosote build up. This ain't the 1920s. It's about the wood, the stove & the operator/operation, that determines whether is it safe, or a creosote fire in the waiting. A stove burnt nearly if not 24/7, can be far less susceptible to creosote build up and chimney fires, than say a weekend burner with subpar wood. Most that burn 24/7 for heat, some as their only source of heat, if properly educated, have no issued of creosote at all. All falls again on, the wood, the stove & the operator/operation.
This is misleading. The older smoke dragon stoves of the past may work that way but the newer EPA stoves are designed to burn low and slow and clean for an overnight burn. Heck I mostly burn my Jotul F45 on the low setting 24/7 all season and have no creosote issues. Dry wood also helps.
Please address manufacturer instructions regarding decreasing air intake once the fire is hot to keep it in the ideal burn temperature range (not overfiring, not burning too cold) in a high efficiency wood stove that also burns the smoke (secondary combustion). You can get long burns with no visible smoke and high efficiency. Tell me where every manufacturer and engineer are wrong about that.
It depends on the stove, the wood, and the operator. Most EPA 3 cu ft stoves will easily provide an overnight burn without smoldering as long as the wood is fully seasoned. In milder weather our stove goes about 12 hrs between reloads. In 16 yrs of burning we have never had a creosote build up issue. Typically we get about a cup of soot and sote with an annual cleaning.
I do generally leave my air intake wide open at least until the fire is down to just a bed of coals, then if I'm going to go sleep or something I will almost close it just to a sliver because I know once it cools it becomes a good way for cold air to downdraft into the house, but the wood is mostly burned by that point. Plus I think the less air actually extends the "life" of the hot coals so if I come back hours later it might be easier to get going again.
Great vid and info. I've burned wood @ 35 yrs, and 100% agree. Well seasoned wood and 'just enough' air can work well, but it has to be its best setting. Even with decently well sesoned wood, when I go from a hot burn (valves open), to only @ 1/4 open each, it almost chokes it out completely, and after a while, wet creosote water sometimes drips at a low point of the stove pipe. Now, I set both valves @ 1full turn open, ea. It's always has hot coals in the morning, on and under the ashes. It happens to be just like the stove dad/we had growing up, a Fisher papa bear. I like the idea of reburners, but idk. My stove has a plate inside, just below the opening, like its designed to reburn anything on the horizontal plate, but not sure. We have great draft control, (best I've seen). Thanks for this vid, helping keep things in mind and perspective.👍
Edit: I have a sweep kit and clean as necessary, but it does fantastic with the right air intake setting. I've experimented alot with it tho. Be extra safe if you're new to burning as primary heat.
With a modern stove there is absolutely no problem at all shutting down for a long burn
Not sure what wood your customers use. But where I live in Canada I only and I mean only use hard wood!!! I close the throttle and damper once the coals are glowing under the wood I load.. it burns from 9 pm until I get up at 4am, which leaves me a nice bed of coals that is still producing enough heat that I just load it and it is back up to temp within 15 minutes. Also never had build up in my chimney, I usually open it up every 2 months during the season and rarely have to clean it more than once per season. People burning pine and spruce will defiantly have this issue, I also rarely have smoke coming from my chimney, usually just a heat wave.
Funny story. Just cleaned my 35 ft of stovepipe after at least 5 years. It was barely drafting. I got a 5 gallon bucket full of creosote chunks and flakes and a 4 inch bird's nest.
So we need to burn the smoke to mitigate the creosote, but we also want a slow burn to last the night.
Catalytic stoves, mayhaps?
Will you be able to come fill my wood stove at 4am? Or I could damp it down so it lasts till 8 or 9
Mine burn so hot you got to 100 all day long .
You're generalizing all wood burn
ing stoves is doing a disservice. It is absolutely possible to burn through the night, 12 hours to 24 hours sometimes more, in stoves & inserts made to do just that. It depends on the stove you're using. And this can be done with consistent 1/3 of a coffee can of fine fly ash to a very fine coffee ground like ash or less at clean out at the end of each season. Instead if using typical fear tactics, why not advise about the importance of the acceptable moisture content of wood being burnt, to avoid creosote build up. Even using a moisture meter and how to split and check a fresh split at room temperature? The differences of old "smoke dragons" and new/newer EPA approved stoves that are much more efficient, and use much less wood to achieve the same heating capabilities, as long as the wood is down to 20% or lower moisture level. There are thousands in the western states whom only have fir , pine etc. to burn, and get overnight heating from their stoves, with very little build up of ash, and no detrimental creosote build up. This ain't the 1920s. It's about the wood, the stove & the operator/operation, that determines whether is it safe, or a creosote fire in the waiting. A stove burnt nearly if not 24/7, can be far less susceptible to creosote build up and chimney fires, than say a weekend burner with subpar wood. Most that burn 24/7 for heat, some as their only source of heat, if properly educated, have no issued of creosote at all. All falls again on, the wood, the stove & the operator/operation.
This is misleading. The older smoke dragon stoves of the past may work that way but the newer EPA stoves are designed to burn low and slow and clean for an overnight burn. Heck I mostly burn my Jotul F45 on the low setting 24/7 all season and have no creosote issues. Dry wood also helps.
Please address manufacturer instructions regarding decreasing air intake once the fire is hot to keep it in the ideal burn temperature range (not overfiring, not burning too cold) in a high efficiency wood stove that also burns the smoke (secondary combustion). You can get long burns with no visible smoke and high efficiency. Tell me where every manufacturer and engineer are wrong about that.
How did a clown like this become president of the chimney association
keeping a flame and dry wood is what is important.
Exactly. I have been telling people that very same thing for years.
Giving bad info for a long time doesn't make it right
Thanks bro
Strange, I've been doing what said not to do for for 30 years. No problems here. Maybe it's cus is boil 2 steam pots and burn 6 aluminum cans.
Thanks for being honest
He is not
Disregard this video if you own a Blaze King.
I have a Pacific energy. I think he’s talking bout people with the older stoves that doesn’t want to change over too a modern stove
Or any decent modern stove
You do realize that the stove you are talking about is a modern EPA stoves that burns very clean when shut down right???
Do you recommend a chimney cap?
alwAYS
Stop burning green wood and or wet wood
This is just a really bad take on wood stoves. Maybe the worst take from a "professional" I've seen.
You must cringe watching these "experts install these units.
As a long term industry professional i cringe when I see "experts" putting out blatantly false information like this