I agree with those who say “start it and run it” as an ASE Master Tech, I really see no benefit to any of this. Going easy on a new engine can actually be detrimental to the rings seating properly. I say start it, you can warm it up and then give her hell.
I have my grandpas 034 super. I was with him the day he picked it up. And its first startup. It cut big red oak from the first tank. I still cut big red oak almost 30 years later.
Hey thanks I’ve watched several videos on RUclips after reading my owners manual. Your exactly right. It says no full revs no full throttle operation until after 3 tank fulls. Then after 5-15 tank fulls your chainsaw gets better and better. Thank you great information
Always full throttle my friend. It's all or nothing with small 2 cycle engines. My Stihl 028 av is always used at full throttle and she's still going strong after all of these years.
I agree. Full throttle under load, but short durations for the 1st tank. 10 minutes of idle seems a bit excessive. Idle till it gets to full heat, let it cool completely before using again.
The Stihl manual says to NOT run it at full throttle until you've gone through 3-4 tanks of gas. I was confused about this because I know that you either run a saw at idle or full throttle, but according to the manufacturer that doesn't apply to the break-in period.
Listen man!!! Unlike an automobile you do not "break in" crank bearings on a chainsaw! They are ball bearings not babet bearings. As far as the piston and rings are concerned the harded you run the saw the better the rings break in! As a professional timber faller who has broke in almost 40 new saws over the years I can tell you that if you let it warm up for 1 minute and than run it as hard as you possibly can the saw will last longer and run better everytime! When it takes 10 tanks to break in your rings it means for 10 tanks of fuel your getting burned exhaust blow by into the crank case and that will prematurely take out crank bearings and seals. That is a fact. Every single saw that I broke in useing the broke Dick method failed prematurely and it was crank seals or bearings everysingle time! When I learned to run them hard and get the rings seated as quickly as possible I never had that problem again
Echo said same thing to me, just to not open it up unless it's under load. Sthil is junk, I'll never buy another one after owning a Echo. Echo dominates the competition in price, warranty, power and longevity.
Thanks for your reply, dealer told me to just start using it and not hold it open unless it's under load. Read manual and break in pperiod isn't mentioned and company says all saws are fired up and tested before they're shipped to the dealer
great video! just bought a 500i wish i watched this 2 weeks ago but i did the same thing pretty much. idle for 10 mins this just started bucking smaller stuff but not at 3/4 throttle. always heard saws are not meant to be used at anything but full throttle but I guess for break in it sounds right. thanks!
The pro saws are good for not needing full throttle, like if cleaning up a face cut or smaller tree felling. If sounds like spark plugs fouled, hit it hard bucking or whatever will clean it up. Only reason can think anyone would say needs to run full throttle is preventing spark plugs fouling.
My dealer told me the first two tanks of gas run 40 to 1......there was no mention of idling the saw as I would imagine this makes it hotter and minimal oil....the dealer told me no more than half throttle for the first tank and 3/4 for tank 2 After that 50 to1 and normal revs
Keep a little rich and let it eat first tank or two. Lean out to a comfortable level after and run it. Only thing that seats is piston rings/cylinder. Gotta generate high cylinder pressures to push the rings out against the cylinder.
@The Trashman a lot of manufacturers recommend 50:1 but they do that for emissions. I have seen video of scoring on saws that have been run at 50:1 so I like 40:1 for normal operation.
Please DUDE, learn how to use a chain saw and fell trees before you do a UTUBE video!!!! YOUR GOING TO KILL SOMEONE WITH HORRIBLE CONTENT!!! I'm not referring to the break in period - a lot of opinions out there. Like Deibert1 pointed out, however if you use a saw long enough for felling we all could probably admit at times it wasn't our best work! Please be careful chain sawing is dangerous!!
@@CatsRcool-b5o i fully agree with you on this kind of content. someone will get killed following it. you are correct on the use of a saw. we all make and do not so bright things when learning. when i was being taught to fall the faller training me gave me more than a few thumps on the tin for doing something completely stupid. look up and cutting below the face and not squaring up your face were his biggest gripes.
I appreciate the mans intentions but after I saw the first thing to do is idle for 10 mins I watched the rest of the video for laughs, when I saw how the tree was cut I wondered if it was some advanced technique or did he really just do that on an informational video was stunned for a moment Hahaha nonetheless thanks to the creator for trying.
I just bought an Echo chainsaw and I contacted them directly to ask this question. They said there is no break in procedure for their chainsaws, and the saw would be broke in after two or three tanks of gas under normal use.
Except echos take like 10 tanks to really break in! They must make rings from freakin leaf spring steel. I dont do an elaborate break in like this guy, but I do let it idle for several minutes to ensure rings are decent seated and run it very rich for the first few tanks.
I just got my brand new stihl ms311 back from the mechanic after watching this video and trying to break it in. His advice was completely counter to the advice given here. His advice is this: 1. DO NOT IDLE STIHLS LONGER THAN YOU NEED TO. LONGER THAN 5 MINUTES IS OUT OF THE QUESTION. 2. Nothing in the instructions says do less than full throttle ON load. It just says no full throttle off load. These machines are designed in a fairy binary sense. They are meant to be full throttle work machines. In fact the cooling fan spins relative to the throttle, so idling is the quickest way to overheat the engine. The advice in this video seems reasonable but it is actually completely opposite to how these machines are meant to be used. I don't blame the video creator but I don't want people to run into the same issue I did. These are expensive machines and it's really disappointing to wreck a brand new one.
You are correct, these machines are meant to run. however the first break in period I would disagree., I don't see how idling for 10-15 minutes will over heat a saw. the "fan" is still running just not fast still providing cooling. The way I break in saws is more conservative than the manual even says to. Yes, revving of any type not under load is a huge no-no. full throttle is not necessary to break in. by using 1/2-3/4 throttle is just a safety precaution to not over rev AND allows slower seating of the rings compared to going strait to full throttle.
@@appalachiandiy2415 You need to read my comment above! Not trying to be an ass but you are passing on your thoughts and they are not based on anidotal realities! Your information is a VERY BAD IDEA
@@appalachiandiy2415 I've only broke in around 40 pro saws Consider this fact......a YZ 85 dirt bike is 85 CCs and puts out almost 20 hp. An 85cc chainsaw puts out around 6.5 hp. Running a chainsaw full throttle in the cut is about like running a YZ 85 about 1/4 throttle to break it in. Chainsaws are in fact an extremely low performance 2 stroke and contrary to what some believe you can't hurt them unless you idle them
they dont recomend the 3/4 throttle. that is something I do and suggest. it helps give a buffer to maxing out the rpm for the engine. At $1300 ill take any advantage to make this saw last as long as possible.
@@appalachiandiy2415 I bought an MS661 here in New Zealand 5 years ago, $2400. I babied it first few tanks, and still let it idle for a minute now when cold. It' still got arm tearing compression and runs like brand new. I personally believe letting the aluminium piston warm a bit in the steel bore before hard work is so important. Each to their own but I believe in taking it easy on a new (and cold) chainsaw. Thanks for the video.
Helped me understand why I burnt out my old... brand new husq saw. Just replaced with a new 460 rancher with 24" bar. Will definitely do this. Thank you. Its all in the discipline and how much you respect yourself and your tools. Thank you for this video.
Wonder why my saw won't idle unless I warm it up by giving It thottle. Once it warm up it will idle but rough. I ask them about it they said because it not broken in all the way ... Mhmm Stihl Ms170
If the low mixture screw is a little off, it can affect cold running. Try going just a little richer on L and see if it improves or not. Be sure to note exactly where the orig. setting was before touching it if you are new so that you can return it to baseline. Also watch a real tutorial on chainsaw carb tuning before diving in. Relatively simple concepts- minus the fact that yours will have limiting caps installed to prevent too much adjustment. Sometimes a subtle tweak helps though. Using good 50:1 mix?
I politely tell them to not touch my saw .. if someone did that to me i'd be going home with a different serial number that day. Especially on virgin rings and bearings.
I froze in panic while my nearest Stihl dealer did that, ran WOT for a full 20 seconds with no load on a new saw. I returned it the next day and went to another dealer who does nothing of the sort, only short spurts, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, to prove out the oiler. Funny thing is that 2 Stihl support people around the globe said it's very bad then I got a followup call from Virginia Beach and the tech said "no problem" and they do it in production. I'm sure that is not true but I'm sure they are rev'd up and down to seat the rings and let bearings and other surfaces break in. I doubt 20 seconds of WOT.
with my years of experience with two stroke chainsaws, The worst thing you can do for a brand new motor is let it sit there and idle!! Please don't give information if you have no idea of the outcomes of these motors
@@appalachiandiy2415 carbon buildup on the piston, when I was at the stihl factory the engineers would run them for exactly 3 minutes and shut them off, let it cool down then they would start them back up and run it through the rev range to properly seat the piston, it allows the piston to heat up from the exhaust port gradually and expand to its maximum therefor eliminating future cause of exhaust port burn on the piston rings, These get revved at the manufacture before they leave for retail, so by running them on idle you are robbing the motor of lubrication as this is increased with fuel as it’s a two cycle mixture, also the piston seats as it goes up and down through the rev range, hence why you always see professional race bike riders continuously revving their two stroke motors to keep them optimally lubricated and allowing it to heat up to operating temperatures which can’t be achieved while on idle, I have spoken to many engineers in this profession and they all seem to come to the same conclusion, I’m sure your not hurting the saw in your break in procedure but you are robbing it of benefits, The most important thing is not to free rev the motor high up in the rev range, best way to break them in is to use them on very light timber and put them under a small load to help the piston bed in, I’m happy to be corrected if I may be wrong in my information but I have saws from the early 80’s that’s are still running strong with no scoring or buildup
Idle= less lubrication from fuel yes but also very low rpm. More trottle = more lubrication but also more friction and heat from rpm. So i dont think its that much of a difference.
I can't buy a bicycle , Kubota tractor, stove, couch, now a chainsaw. What the hell is going on ? This should be a great wake-up call to the manufactures moving the work out of the USA to other countries.
“Ten minutes later....” you said it slowly with a slight accent. They go that on the cartoon with a French accent. Yes I’m old but have fond memories of the cartoon. Love the vid. New chainsaw idling now! Thank you.
@@appalachiandiy2415 Its a fact, not opinion. I have thousands of hours on stock saws and modified saws. From the 661CM manual: A factory new machine should not be run at high revs (full throttle off load) for the first three tank fillings. This avoids unnecessarily high loads during the break-in period. As all moving parts have to bed in during the break-in period, the frictional resistances in the shortblock are greater during this period. The engine develops its maximum power after about 5 to 15 tank fillings
Ouuuchhh. I have a question Who in the world taught you how to make your face cuts? The tree is not supposed to stop dead on the stump and roll off Flip your face cut upside down. So the tree actually slides OFF of the stump downward What your doing is very dangerous
your talking about making a humbolt cut. and yes the butt of the tree will hit first. A traditional/conventional cut is what I made(tip of tree hits first). there are benefits to both. The tree stopped because I didn't make my face open enough and the gap closed. an open face would have been better here because of the extreme slope on the ground. A traditional cut is not dangerous it's just one of many ways to make a face cut.
I agree with those who say “start it and run it” as an ASE Master Tech, I really see no benefit to any of this.
Going easy on a new engine can actually be detrimental to the rings seating properly.
I say start it, you can warm it up and then give her hell.
I have my grandpas 034 super. I was with him the day he picked it up. And its first startup. It cut big red oak from the first tank. I still cut big red oak almost 30 years later.
Def dont make them like they used to
Hey thanks I’ve watched several videos on RUclips after reading my owners manual. Your exactly right. It says no full revs no full throttle operation until after 3 tank fulls. Then after 5-15 tank fulls your chainsaw gets better and better. Thank you great information
Thanks!
Always full throttle my friend. It's all or nothing with small 2 cycle engines. My Stihl 028 av is always used at full throttle and she's still going strong after all of these years.
im glad its still running good for you
I agree. Full throttle under load, but short durations for the 1st tank. 10 minutes of idle seems a bit excessive. Idle till it gets to full heat, let it cool completely before using again.
The Stihl manual says to NOT run it at full throttle until you've gone through 3-4 tanks of gas. I was confused about this because I know that you either run a saw at idle or full throttle, but according to the manufacturer that doesn't apply to the break-in period.
@@drakeswake Full throttle while cutting. No full throttle outside of wood.
Listen man!!! Unlike an automobile you do not "break in" crank bearings on a chainsaw! They are ball bearings not babet bearings. As far as the piston and rings are concerned the harded you run the saw the better the rings break in! As a professional timber faller who has broke in almost 40 new saws over the years I can tell you that if you let it warm up for 1 minute and than run it as hard as you possibly can the saw will last longer and run better everytime! When it takes 10 tanks to break in your rings it means for 10 tanks of fuel your getting burned exhaust blow by into the crank case and that will prematurely take out crank bearings and seals. That is a fact. Every single saw that I broke in useing the broke Dick method failed prematurely and it was crank seals or bearings everysingle time! When I learned to run them hard and get the rings seated as quickly as possible I never had that problem again
thanks for your opinion
What you just said is contrary to the manufacturer's (Stihl) instructions for breaking in their saws.
Echo said same thing to me, just to not open it up unless it's under load. Sthil is junk, I'll never buy another one after owning a Echo. Echo dominates the competition in price, warranty, power and longevity.
@@dentondunn4346 😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for your reply, dealer told me to just start using it and not hold it open unless it's under load. Read manual and break in pperiod isn't mentioned and company says all saws are fired up and tested before they're shipped to the dealer
great video! just bought a 500i wish i watched this 2 weeks ago but i did the same thing pretty much. idle for 10 mins this just started bucking smaller stuff but not at 3/4 throttle. always heard saws are not meant to be used at anything but full throttle but I guess for break in it sounds right. thanks!
The pro saws are good for not needing full throttle, like if cleaning up a face cut or smaller tree felling. If sounds like spark plugs fouled, hit it hard bucking or whatever will clean it up. Only reason can think anyone would say needs to run full throttle is preventing spark plugs fouling.
I never broke in a saw .I start it and let her rip
Had zero problems.
My dealer told me the first two tanks of gas run 40 to 1......there was no mention of idling the saw as I would imagine this makes it hotter and minimal oil....the dealer told me no more than half throttle for the first tank and 3/4 for tank 2
After that 50 to1 and normal revs
Do you suggest this same type of break in procedure for smaller 38cc saws?
Keep a little rich and let it eat first tank or two. Lean out to a comfortable level after and run it. Only thing that seats is piston rings/cylinder. Gotta generate high cylinder pressures to push the rings out against the cylinder.
Thanks
@The Trashman a lot of manufacturers recommend 50:1 but they do that for emissions. I have seen video of scoring on saws that have been run at 50:1 so I like 40:1 for normal operation.
dont know if its been asked before but do you do the same for 2 and 4 stroke engines? thanks
I ran my saw fullbore outa box. Seems fine. Imagine breaking in a lawnmower lmao
Same here. Ten years later the 290 still a reams for what it is.
Oh my i thought for sure that tree was gonna kick back off the stump. Never go below your face cut always leave a little hinge wood. be safe out there
Please DUDE, learn how to use a chain saw and fell trees before you do a UTUBE video!!!! YOUR GOING TO KILL SOMEONE WITH HORRIBLE CONTENT!!! I'm not referring to the break in period - a lot of opinions out there. Like Deibert1 pointed out, however if you use a saw long enough for felling we all could probably admit at times it wasn't our best work! Please be careful chain sawing is dangerous!!
@@CatsRcool-b5o i fully agree with you on this kind of content. someone will get killed following it. you are correct on the use of a saw. we all make and do not so bright things when learning. when i was being taught to fall the faller training me gave me more than a few thumps on the tin for doing something completely stupid. look up and cutting below the face and not squaring up your face were his biggest gripes.
@@deibert1 @Jamie Brooks Any good starting out videos for people just learning to chain saw?
@@coolkick7 look up wranglerstar he has a few older videos that lay out how to fall trees and do it safely
I appreciate the mans intentions but after I saw the first thing to do is idle for 10 mins I watched the rest of the video for laughs, when I saw how the tree was cut I wondered if it was some advanced technique or did he really just do that on an informational video was stunned for a moment Hahaha nonetheless thanks to the creator for trying.
I just bought an Echo chainsaw and I contacted them directly to ask this question. They said there is no break in procedure for their chainsaws, and the saw would be broke in after two or three tanks of gas under normal use.
I would suggest to at least not to rev it when it's not under load. Good luck
Echo told me same thing, run like normal without running it open without being under load
Except echos take like 10 tanks to really break in! They must make rings from freakin leaf spring steel.
I dont do an elaborate break in like this guy, but I do let it idle for several minutes to ensure rings are decent seated and run it very rich for the first few tanks.
I agree apart form the 10min idling. 3min is ages long enough
Thanks for the reply!
It is great chainsaw and i would advice anyone to do this procedure like you who owhnes new chainsaw!Great video and greetings from Croatia
Thanks!
Never done any of this . Here is your new saw. Don’t use it right away.
I just got my brand new stihl ms311 back from the mechanic after watching this video and trying to break it in. His advice was completely counter to the advice given here. His advice is this:
1. DO NOT IDLE STIHLS LONGER THAN YOU NEED TO. LONGER THAN 5 MINUTES IS OUT OF THE QUESTION.
2. Nothing in the instructions says do less than full throttle ON load. It just says no full throttle off load.
These machines are designed in a fairy binary sense. They are meant to be full throttle work machines. In fact the cooling fan spins relative to the throttle, so idling is the quickest way to overheat the engine.
The advice in this video seems reasonable but it is actually completely opposite to how these machines are meant to be used.
I don't blame the video creator but I don't want people to run into the same issue I did. These are expensive machines and it's really disappointing to wreck a brand new one.
You are correct, these machines are meant to run. however the first break in period I would disagree., I don't see how idling for 10-15 minutes will over heat a saw. the "fan" is still running just not fast still providing cooling. The way I break in saws is more conservative than the manual even says to. Yes, revving of any type not under load is a huge no-no. full throttle is not necessary to break in. by using 1/2-3/4 throttle is just a safety precaution to not over rev AND allows slower seating of the rings compared to going strait to full throttle.
@@appalachiandiy2415 You need to read my comment above! Not trying to be an ass but you are passing on your thoughts and they are not based on anidotal realities! Your information is a VERY BAD IDEA
You are exactly correct sir! Thank you for your comment because you will save a lot of folks some serious problems
@@campnoutdoors1621 I dont agree with running the saw as hard as you can to make the rings seat better.
@@appalachiandiy2415 I've only broke in around 40 pro saws
Consider this fact......a YZ 85 dirt bike is 85 CCs and puts out almost 20 hp. An 85cc chainsaw puts out around 6.5 hp. Running a chainsaw full throttle in the cut is about like running a YZ 85 about 1/4 throttle to break it in. Chainsaws are in fact an extremely low performance 2 stroke and contrary to what some believe you can't hurt them unless you idle them
Dude bought a man’s saw and a kiddie tractor 😄
I doubt anyone has ever or ever will go thru a full tank of gas at only 3/4 power. I also can not believe that Stihl would expect that of anyone.
they dont recomend the 3/4 throttle. that is something I do and suggest. it helps give a buffer to maxing out the rpm for the engine. At $1300 ill take any advantage to make this saw last as long as possible.
@@appalachiandiy2415 I bought an MS661 here in New Zealand 5 years ago, $2400. I babied it first few tanks, and still let it idle for a minute now when cold. It' still got arm tearing compression and runs like brand new. I personally believe letting the aluminium piston warm a bit in the steel bore before hard work is so important. Each to their own but I believe in taking it easy on a new (and cold) chainsaw. Thanks for the video.
@@MC-ft8zv totally agree
Helped me understand why I burnt out my old... brand new husq saw. Just replaced with a new 460 rancher with 24" bar. Will definitely do this. Thank you. Its all in the discipline and how much you respect yourself and your tools. Thank you for this video.
Right on! I 100% agree with how you respect your tools is a reflection on yourself.
How do you prefer to break in your saws
Mike Cooper: What did you do to burn it out?
Wonder why my saw won't idle unless I warm it up by giving It thottle. Once it warm up it will idle but rough. I ask them about it they said because it not broken in all the way ... Mhmm Stihl Ms170
That doesnt sound right. It should idle right from the start. Try turning up the idle screw
Buy an echo, you'll be better off than a low-end stihl.
If the low mixture screw is a little off, it can affect cold running. Try going just a little richer on L and see if it improves or not. Be sure to note exactly where the orig. setting was before touching it if you are new so that you can return it to baseline.
Also watch a real tutorial on chainsaw carb tuning before diving in. Relatively simple concepts- minus the fact that yours will have limiting caps installed to prevent too much adjustment. Sometimes a subtle tweak helps though.
Using good 50:1 mix?
@@eugenecrabs3954 I’m loving my Echo CS-590. It’s a bit heavier than the Husky 55 I used to have, but also a bit more powerful.
thanks nice and clear allan nz
Why do they start new saws when u buy them and rev them way up? Is that bad?
That kills me inside a little every time they do that.
Yea thats bad, especially not under load
same!
I politely tell them to not touch my saw .. if someone did that to me i'd be going home with a different serial number that day. Especially on virgin rings and bearings.
I froze in panic while my nearest Stihl dealer did that, ran WOT for a full 20 seconds with no load on a new saw. I returned it the next day and went to another dealer who does nothing of the sort, only short spurts, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, to prove out the oiler. Funny thing is that 2 Stihl support people around the globe said it's very bad then I got a followup call from Virginia Beach and the tech said "no problem" and they do it in production. I'm sure that is not true but I'm sure they are rev'd up and down to seat the rings and let bearings and other surfaces break in. I doubt 20 seconds of WOT.
Wait, did I hear you say, "App-uh-LAY-chun"?
Enjoyed your vid!
yea, thats how we way it up here. thanks for the reply!
@@appalachiandiy2415, we say, "App-uh-LATCH-un" down here in the Southern Appalachians.
@@wireedm1 yea thats a common thing. Sounds weird to say it like that from where I'm from lol
@@appalachiandiy2415, same here! It would be odd for us to say App-uh-LAY-chun State University. lol
Hey, keep up the good work. Enjoy your vids.
@@wireedm1 Thanks!
with my years of experience with two stroke chainsaws, The worst thing you can do for a brand new motor is let it sit there and idle!! Please don't give information if you have no idea of the outcomes of these motors
Why do you think that is bad for it?
@@appalachiandiy2415 carbon buildup on the piston, when I was at the stihl factory the engineers would run them for exactly 3 minutes and shut them off, let it cool down then they would start them back up and run it through the rev range to properly seat the piston, it allows the piston to heat up from the exhaust port gradually and expand to its maximum therefor eliminating future cause of exhaust port burn on the piston rings,
These get revved at the manufacture before they leave for retail, so by running them on idle you are robbing the motor of lubrication as this is increased with fuel as it’s a two cycle mixture, also the piston seats as it goes up and down through the rev range, hence why you always see professional race bike riders continuously revving their two stroke motors to keep them optimally lubricated and allowing it to heat up to operating temperatures which can’t be achieved while on idle, I have spoken to many engineers in this profession and they all seem to come to the same conclusion, I’m sure your not hurting the saw in your break in procedure but you are robbing it of benefits,
The most important thing is not to free rev the motor high up in the rev range, best way to break them in is to use them on very light timber and put them under a small load to help the piston bed in,
I’m happy to be corrected if I may be wrong in my information but I have saws from the early 80’s that’s are still running strong with no scoring or buildup
@@AlexanderTheGrateful good info, thanks
This right here is why i love the internet. Good stuff. The both of you
Idle= less lubrication from fuel yes but also very low rpm. More trottle = more lubrication but also more friction and heat from rpm. So i dont think its that much of a difference.
I can't buy a bicycle , Kubota tractor, stove, couch, now a chainsaw. What the hell is going on ?
This should be a great wake-up call to the manufactures moving the work out of the USA to other countries.
heard that
Except for the fact that pro model Stihl saws are made in Germany because it's a German brand.
@@TheWoodsman661 only the pro models?
I noticed you walked behind the tree after making the back cut: Be Careful dear friend.
Always
Or ... you could follow the break-in instructions in the owner's manual. The engineers who designed this stuff might have some insight.
Simular to how my yamaha outboard was to be broke in according to the manufacturer.
Yep
Finnally using huqvarva been using shindawa for yrs
Wise move. Always use god 2 stroke oil, such as Lucas synthetic blend or Amsoil pure synthetic.
36” bar?
Yes it is
@@appalachiandiy2415 gotcha
Ditch the music
A few hours later🤣
Sponge Bob! 😂🤣😂
Must have missed him.
“Ten minutes later....” you said it slowly with a slight accent. They go that on the cartoon with a French accent. Yes I’m old but have fond memories of the cartoon. Love the vid. New chainsaw idling now! Thank you.
@@mangle40 Ahh I get it now. Never watched it. I didn't understand the reference. Did you get a 661 or something else?
@@appalachiandiy2415 I just bought a 550xp mark 2
@@maxschlum8898 nice! Im a stihl guy myself but i have alot of friends with Husqvarnas. what do you plan on using it on?
This is completely incorrect. Fill the tank and use the saw. Done.
Thanks for your opinion
That's my opinion too, actually my dealer said the same thing to me the day I purchased my new echo cs590 Timberwolf
@@appalachiandiy2415 Its a fact, not opinion. I have thousands of hours on stock saws and modified saws. From the 661CM manual: A factory new machine should not be run
at high revs (full throttle off load) for the
first three tank fillings. This avoids
unnecessarily high loads during the
break-in period. As all moving parts
have to bed in during the break-in
period, the frictional resistances in the
shortblock are greater during this period.
The engine develops its maximum
power after about 5 to 15 tank fillings
You can brake in however you wont
Truth. The saw has already been broken in during epa testing before it ever leaves the factory. Flash it up and start cutting
Ouuuchhh. I have a question
Who in the world taught you how to make your face cuts?
The tree is not supposed to stop dead on the stump and roll off
Flip your face cut upside down. So the tree actually slides OFF of the stump downward
What your doing is very dangerous
your talking about making a humbolt cut. and yes the butt of the tree will hit first. A traditional/conventional cut is what I made(tip of tree hits first). there are benefits to both. The tree stopped because I didn't make my face open enough and the gap closed. an open face would have been better here because of the extreme slope on the ground. A traditional cut is not dangerous it's just one of many ways to make a face cut.
They run these saws at the factory to test emossions you are to late it has been ran hard already
thats my saw
how long have you had your 661?
Very happy 😍💋 💝💖♥️❤️
Thanks
Don’t walk behind that tree!