I didn't know that yoke cylinders existed! Here in Italy all cylinders are DIN, and I just bring with me my adapters and the key for my yoke first stage (the ones provided by the diving will always have old o rings and cause leakage). Fun fact: Italian divers call the yoke adapters "caramelle" which means candies! Great video as always!
I got turned onto plastic razor blades a while back, and have since looked for plastic alternatives for where I'd normally use brass tools. You can get a set of plastic picks for super cheap and don't have to worry about them rusting or using them where even brass could cause issues
Great, handy video, mate! Always good to have a few O-rings on hand when out and about on a trip - one reason I like Apeks regs and the fact they have an O-ring handily on the yoke 'ball' cover for when you need it. Took me years before I noticed that!!!!
On a recent liveaboard I heard a diver mention to a member of the crew about changing out a faulty o-ring. The crewman's answer... "Oh those are just 'champagne bubbles'. It'll be fine." To which the diver replied, "Be a shame if not changing out a 2 cent o-ring that you didn't even pay for cost you when it came time to figure out the crew tip." Not how I would have handled it, but he made his point. Haha!
Great advice to check the cylinder valve O-ring every time. Out in the open like that they are easy to see, and they can so easily go missing when the kit's taken apart, especially with rental cylinders. I go one further though and use a plastic pick. Even brass can damage the surface.
Thaks, James, for informative video. However, I would like to make some clarifications. First, you can het even Viton O-ring burn and the fumes are very poisonous so be careful with those. Today classic nitrile rubber O-rings aer commonly used with even pure oxygen. Second, some O-rings especially in camera housings are made of silicon. If you grease a silicon O-ring with silicon grease, you'll be in trouble: the grease will melt the O-ring. Threrefore it is vital to use special grease for those O-rings. Fortunately that works also with robber and Viton rings, too, so you need only two types of O-ring grease: oxygen grease, like Chrystolube for O-rings contacting higher partial pressure oxygen and that grease for silicong rings.
Can we all just agree that everyone should be using DIN and phase out Yoke? oh and it's about time we make 'bar' the universal pressure unit :) (will climb down from my soapbox now). Thanks for another useful video!
Love the vids and thanks for the tips! One thing though, i think it’s V “I” ton. Not sure if that falls into the Aluminum or Laboratory category in the queens English. :)
Totally off the video subject. Question about transmitters seen yours in the video and it jogged a question for me to ask. I am 6’2” and your taller than me. With my long arms it loses connection. What do you do to keep your transmitter and watch or computer synced up? I have been reaching back let it connect, check air and keep going. Thanks
Hi, uhm where are the O-Rings that I can check for myself before starting the dive season again or going on vacation? Is there only the one at the first stage/tank or are there any more (I only mean for the basic setup not like for the torch and camera and so on. Just regulator, tank and maybe computer or so)
I would just stick to those O-rings, myself. Anything else should be looked at by a service technician. I prefer to use Chrtisolube on all regulator O-rings.
Great video James! How often would you grease your o-rings? Does it depend on what the equipment (regulator vs dive torch etc.)? My apologies if you said during the video...
There are really only two situations in which a crappy O ring in the tank valve outlet could lead to water entering your 1st stage: 1) You jump over the side having NOT turned your cylinder on (not recommended as even for world class free divers that's going to be a pretty short dive....) 2) You have breathed your tank down below ambient water pressure. Given that 100m depth is 10 bar, i really hope you are not that deep / that low on air! You want to change the O ring not to prevent water getting into your 1st stage (which would, could it somehow get in aginst the deltaP be dried out anyway by the dry air in the tank flowing through the system as you breath the cylinder down) but because that damaged O ring could later fail completely or even be extruded completely out from the gap between 1st stage and tank (on non DIN systems where the O ring is not completely captured by it's housing). That you really don't want to happen!
You funny guy. Try and buy an O ring for 2¢ in a dive shop. Minimum is typically $1.50, vitons can be $3-$5 each. Do not buy them at a dive shop. Most likely 99.99% of divers have to get raped by the dive shop for tank O rings because the dive shop does that O ring at the yearly VIP.
I didn't know that yoke cylinders existed! Here in Italy all cylinders are DIN, and I just bring with me my adapters and the key for my yoke first stage (the ones provided by the diving will always have old o rings and cause leakage).
Fun fact: Italian divers call the yoke adapters "caramelle" which means candies!
Great video as always!
I got turned onto plastic razor blades a while back, and have since looked for plastic alternatives for where I'd normally use brass tools. You can get a set of plastic picks for super cheap and don't have to worry about them rusting or using them where even brass could cause issues
James pimping that mk2i. I see you!
Great, handy video, mate! Always good to have a few O-rings on hand when out and about on a trip - one reason I like Apeks regs and the fact they have an O-ring handily on the yoke 'ball' cover for when you need it. Took me years before I noticed that!!!!
Thanks .. We love your videos.. Regards Makdiver from Denmark..
Thanks for watching!
I like your 5 Minutes Tech Tipps Videos (Even they are never that short!)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Greetings from Cologne, Germany!
On a recent liveaboard I heard a diver mention to a member of the crew about changing out a faulty o-ring. The crewman's answer... "Oh those are just 'champagne bubbles'. It'll be fine." To which the diver replied, "Be a shame if not changing out a 2 cent o-ring that you didn't even pay for cost you when it came time to figure out the crew tip." Not how I would have handled it, but he made his point. Haha!
Thanks James one of your best quick tips in a line of great Videos
Great vid. I will now be checking the cylinders.
As always, simple but smart!!
Nice was waiting for o rings 👍👍
Need to set up a little self-repair kit, just in case, for my next holiday
Consistently informative 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾🇧🇸
Great advice to check the cylinder valve O-ring every time. Out in the open like that they are easy to see, and they can so easily go missing when the kit's taken apart, especially with rental cylinders. I go one further though and use a plastic pick. Even brass can damage the surface.
Great knowledge
great info. divers need to be aware and perhaps carry a couple spares and a multi tool for changing. thank you for your vids and info
Another great Quick Tip video! Thank you, James!
You're very welcome!
Excellent update
Thaks, James, for informative video. However, I would like to make some clarifications. First, you can het even Viton O-ring burn and the fumes are very poisonous so be careful with those. Today classic nitrile rubber O-rings aer commonly used with even pure oxygen. Second, some O-rings especially in camera housings are made of silicon. If you grease a silicon O-ring with silicon grease, you'll be in trouble: the grease will melt the O-ring. Threrefore it is vital to use special grease for those O-rings. Fortunately that works also with robber and Viton rings, too, so you need only two types of O-ring grease: oxygen grease, like Chrystolube for O-rings contacting higher partial pressure oxygen and that grease for silicong rings.
Great job james !! 😉
thanks James, great info and vid! keep em coming!
Can we all just agree that everyone should be using DIN and phase out Yoke? oh and it's about time we make 'bar' the universal pressure unit :) (will climb down from my soapbox now). Thanks for another useful video!
Thanks James. Good info.
Thank you, not sure if you have done this. But ever think about doing a save a dive kit? One for travel also.
So awsome James :D!!!! Thx❤️
Good info to know. Thanks!
Love the vids and thanks for the tips! One thing though, i think it’s V “I” ton. Not sure if that falls into the Aluminum or Laboratory category in the queens English. :)
Love your channel! On the lube topic,what do ya use to preserve rubber neck and arm seals on dry suit?
Tanks .
Totally off the video subject. Question about transmitters seen yours in the video and it jogged a question for me to ask. I am 6’2” and your taller than me. With my long arms it loses connection. What do you do to keep your transmitter and watch or computer synced up? I have been reaching back let it connect, check air and keep going. Thanks
🤙 job
Great job, clean with alcohol, and o2 grease!!!!😁
Hi, uhm where are the O-Rings that I can check for myself before starting the dive season again or going on vacation? Is there only the one at the first stage/tank or are there any more (I only mean for the basic setup not like for the torch and camera and so on. Just regulator, tank and maybe computer or so)
Oh and since my English isn't perfect I didn't understood correctly. Should I use silicon on the first stage O-ring?
I would just stick to those O-rings, myself. Anything else should be looked at by a service technician. I prefer to use Chrtisolube on all regulator O-rings.
@@DiversReady Thank you very much :)
I love your videos ❤️
Great video James!
How often would you grease your o-rings? Does it depend on what the equipment (regulator vs dive torch etc.)? My apologies if you said during the video...
I grease mine every time I disassemble, for lights, computers etc.
Thanks I guess I should start doing that 😅
There are really only two situations in which a crappy O ring in the tank valve outlet could lead to water entering your 1st stage:
1) You jump over the side having NOT turned your cylinder on (not recommended as even for world class free divers that's going to be a pretty short dive....)
2) You have breathed your tank down below ambient water pressure. Given that 100m depth is 10 bar, i really hope you are not that deep / that low on air!
You want to change the O ring not to prevent water getting into your 1st stage (which would, could it somehow get in aginst the deltaP be dried out anyway by the dry air in the tank flowing through the system as you breath the cylinder down) but because that damaged O ring could later fail completely or even be extruded completely out from the gap between 1st stage and tank (on non DIN systems where the O ring is not completely captured by it's housing). That you really don't want to happen!
Wearing the MK2 as a daily wear? Noice....
dive DIN and laugh at YOKE problem
You funny guy. Try and buy an O ring for 2¢ in a dive shop. Minimum is typically $1.50, vitons can be $3-$5 each. Do not buy them at a dive shop. Most likely 99.99% of divers have to get raped by the dive shop for tank O rings because the dive shop does that O ring at the yearly VIP.
I'm single 😥😥😥😥😥