Well said Mark. For me the reception is improved when using short hoses. I dive sidemount and the distance from transmitters under my armpits to my wrists is on the edge. Though the hoses would seem to increase the distance I think it helps to put the transmitters away from all that metal and body parts.
Wow I think it’s great I found you like-minded divers talking about the same things that concern me. I just picked up Garmin T2 where it is still in the box. Thinking a 4-6 inch rubber line should do it.
I have both my Shearwater transmitters on Carbon Fiber short hoses. I also have a pool noodle on each transmitter. It offers a tad bit more protection in transit as I tote my gear around FL in a Rubbermaid tote. I use my 2nd transmitter on my pony which I carry during lobster season, deep wreck dives, or with a buddy who’s an air hog. My 2nd transmitter is opposite my 1st transmitter so my pony setup is backwards for most divers. I have to make sure that the boat crew doesn’t turn off my pony when they "check my tank" before doing the giant stride in as it attaches to my primary cylinder.
Another possible benefit for divers using Garmin is that the transmitter on a hose is a little bit more distant from the ear, so the "whistle" made by sonar is less audible, although not all divers could hear it. Also since it's closer to the compute the power can be reduced (so again, less audible whistle). But that's not for Teric or any other transmitter using radio technology
Having bought a new and nice transmitter, I attached it directly to the regulator and thought I would buy another one and attach it to another port. Beautiful. Everyone said at the dive site that someone would get hold of it... Now the transmitter is at the end of a very short hose and the analogue meter will be replaced by another one later.
@@evgeniysokolov4088 You won't really notice, I just don't really see the advantage of having two transmitters on a single 1st stage. You still have a single point of failure in your computer unless you also wear a backup to that.
I use a short hose on the transmitter for backmount,. For sidemount I attach it directly to the 1st stage. As you can tell from Mark's setup, the transmitter is really close to the cylinder valve, and is easily mistaken for a valve. It's vulnerable to getting knocked, and it's behind your head. In sidemount, the tranmitter is angled down, in line with the cylinder. If you're handing off your cylinders, there's really no real way to grab the transmitter. A short hose would only get in the way in a sidemount configuration. Also, the first stage is tucked under your armpit, so it's well protected while diving. I use a backup SPG on backmount, but don't bother with an analog SPG on sidemount. To fit both the transmitter and the SPG you either have one sticking out, or you need an HP splitter block to attach both in line with the cylinder. There's already redundancy because you have two separate cylinders. Even if one fails, you can safely finish your dive with the other cylinder.
Btw, there is a third option for a backup SPG for sidemount that I've seen: a tiny SPG (1 in / 2,5 cm in diameter) that screws directly into the first stage.
My setup is a transmitter on a 4 inch hose with an air integrated dive computer on the other HP port. Two SPGs and two computers. The transmitter with or without a hose is another point of entanglement, so be prepared.
Any high pressure hose. All scuba diving high pressure hoses have a 7/16" thread on both ends so, they're the closest thing to universal we have in regs. You'll also need a swivel pin between the hose and the transmitter for it to seal properly.
7 месяцев назад+1
Thanks for the instructive explanation. Would you recommend to detach the transmitter when not in use for some time? Or would it be just OK to leave it attached to the hose/first stage?
It should be fine to leave it in place. Transmitters will go into a sleep mode when depressurised so your battery should be ok. After 6 months though I would be checking the O-ring to make sure it hasn't hardened or flattened.
Had mine on the 1st stage, when my D10 fell cause someone knocked it over it was broken off😢. Through his insurance i got a new one 😊, and ever since it is on a 10 cm hose.
I have a Shearwater that I wear on my left wrist, and I currently have an SPG attached to the left side of my reg setup. Would it be ok to put the transmitter on the right HP house?
It _should_ be OK. That's a very typical setup for divers. You may get some LOS with an out-stretched arm but holding it in front of you as normal should be well within the 1m radius and I've never had an issue in that configuration.
I purchased a short hose after watching this video. The hose leaks at the transmitter no matter how tight I make it. The o ring is fine. I took the hose back off and put the transmitter back on to the first stage directly and no leak. What am I doing wrong?
You're probably missing a swivel pin. there should be a small metal bar with two O-rings that sits between the hose and the transmitter. Watch this video to see what I'm talking about: ruclips.net/video/mLgbNHeK6ew/видео.html
It’s worth noting that some transmitters (Like Garmin) world require a special spanner wrench or a wrench that’s ground down very thin if you want to mount it directly to your first stage.
Hello Mark, quick question. Does leaving the o-ring on the base of the transmitter when screwing it to the short hose have any effect? I assume the swivel pin should be enough to make a proper seal. Keep up the great work. Kind Regards.
Hi, in the video 'Do I Need a Swivel Pin on Every Hose?' (?v=mLgbNHeK6ew) from March 27th, 2024, Mark himself answering the question from @jodeci888 said "if you're attaching a transmitter to a hose then you don't need that O-Ring on your transmitter, just the swivel pin. That O-ring is just for when you attach the transmitter directly to your 1st stage". Hope it helps. BTW, amazing channel with great content, thanks a lot!
No, there's no need for that O-ring to be left there, you only need that O-ring if it's attached directly to the 1st stage. And thanks @Adiabatisch84 for the speedy reply
Great video Mark. However, given how reliable transmitters now are, I don’t really understand backup SPGs. I’ve never seen divers backup their spg with a second spg on their back gas… but suddenly transmitters, which serve the same purpose, need redundancy. If a transmitter fails you thumb the dive with plenty of gas contingency, just as you would if an spg failed
#askmark Thanks for all your great videos! I'm still newer to diving and predominantly dive in cold water. I am starting the journey of buying my own gear and transitioning to a twin set. I would like to know your observations on the difference between apeks MTX-R and MTX-RC? Is there a measurable benefit for the more expensive RC? Thanks for all your advice and information.
The only benefit is that breathing adjustment, and the colour I do prefer the dark grey of the -RC... The MTX-R is quite a stiff breathe out of the box to help prevent it from freeflowing. For cold water diving that's great but, a lot of divers found it too stiff. So Apeks added the breathing adjustment in the -RC. The -RC doesn't have the NEDU rating that the -R has but it will still work perfectly fine in cold water. I'd be happy with the -R but, I'd probably get my service tech to lighten it unless I was planning a very cold dive
@@ScubaDiverMagazine Ok, that make sense, it looked too easy when it was lifted. I was hoping for a new development in cylinder technology that I was not aware of.
#askmark if using a transmitter do you still need a spg? I do on my main, but not currently on my stage, a transmitter only, it’s a new setup so after a little advice. Thanks Nick
Not really, transmitter technology is very good today and while I do tend to use a SPG for redundancy, it isn't essential. As long as you check the battery on the transmitter and dive computer often it should be fine. I can't remember the last time a transmitter failed on me and I've known a few divers who only use a transmitter. I still like the redundancy of an analogue SPG though...
I had mine direct on the first stage I used to live closer to beach and I would bicycle with my scuba gear in a tow behind trailer down to the water but one day I turned too fast and trailer flipped smashed my transmitter it was a 350 dollar mistake fun fun
There are shorter mouthpieces like the Comfobite that don't go particularly far into your mouth if that's what triggers it. Otherwise yes, a FFM is going to be your best option
#askmark Hi Mark, for a single tank configuration for about an hour of dive, would 63 cu ft tanks that weighs around 27 lbs work well? I think having a lightweight tank would help with transportation and putting on gears on surface, but these don't seem like a common option for most divers. What could be the potential compromises? Additionally, what do you think of Carbon composite SCUBA tanks that only weighs around 11 lbs? Would they cause too much buoyancy compared to steel tanks? I love your contents, and thanks!
It depends on the dive and the diver. If you're staying shallow and have a good breathing rate then you could probably stretch a 63 for an hours dive. I'd rather bring a larger cylinder for extra gas though. The light carbon cylinders aren't great for diving, they're too buoyant, fragile and have limited life-spans. They're lovely to carry around on the surface but, you need to carry more lead to counteract their buoyancy.
I've seen dive guides grab those tanks by the transmitter. Thankfully I got advice to put it on a short hose from the start so mine has been fine.
Well said Mark. For me the reception is improved when using short hoses. I dive sidemount and the distance from transmitters under my armpits to my wrists is on the edge. Though the hoses would seem to increase the distance I think it helps to put the transmitters away from all that metal and body parts.
Thanks, Mark. I think I will do the short hose thing as well.
Wow I think it’s great I found you like-minded divers talking about the same things that concern me. I just picked up Garmin T2 where it is still in the box. Thinking a 4-6 inch rubber line should do it.
I have both my Shearwater transmitters on Carbon Fiber short hoses. I also have a pool noodle on each transmitter. It offers a tad bit more protection in transit as I tote my gear around FL in a Rubbermaid tote. I use my 2nd transmitter on my pony which I carry during lobster season, deep wreck dives, or with a buddy who’s an air hog. My 2nd transmitter is opposite my 1st transmitter so my pony setup is backwards for most divers. I have to make sure that the boat crew doesn’t turn off my pony when they "check my tank" before doing the giant stride in as it attaches to my primary cylinder.
_"This valve handle is really tight"_
As they try to unscrew your transmitter...
Another possible benefit for divers using Garmin is that the transmitter on a hose is a little bit more distant from the ear, so the "whistle" made by sonar is less audible, although not all divers could hear it. Also since it's closer to the compute the power can be reduced (so again, less audible whistle).
But that's not for Teric or any other transmitter using radio technology
Good point. I forgot the Garmin transmitters can be noisy
It was more audible than what I would have liked , getting a longer extension.
Having bought a new and nice transmitter, I attached it directly to the regulator and thought I would buy another one and attach it to another port. Beautiful. Everyone said at the dive site that someone would get hold of it... Now the transmitter is at the end of a very short hose and the analogue meter will be replaced by another one later.
Isn't it too much for recreational diving?
@@evgeniysokolov4088 You won't really notice, I just don't really see the advantage of having two transmitters on a single 1st stage. You still have a single point of failure in your computer unless you also wear a backup to that.
I use a short hose on the transmitter for backmount,.
For sidemount I attach it directly to the 1st stage.
As you can tell from Mark's setup, the transmitter is really close to the cylinder valve, and is easily mistaken for a valve. It's vulnerable to getting knocked, and it's behind your head.
In sidemount, the tranmitter is angled down, in line with the cylinder. If you're handing off your cylinders, there's really no real way to grab the transmitter. A short hose would only get in the way in a sidemount configuration. Also, the first stage is tucked under your armpit, so it's well protected while diving.
I use a backup SPG on backmount, but don't bother with an analog SPG on sidemount. To fit both the transmitter and the SPG you either have one sticking out, or you need an HP splitter block to attach both in line with the cylinder. There's already redundancy because you have two separate cylinders. Even if one fails, you can safely finish your dive with the other cylinder.
Thanks for your point. After Marks video I was thinking of sidemount setup as well.
Your point is amazing.
Btw, there is a third option for a backup SPG for sidemount that I've seen: a tiny SPG (1 in / 2,5 cm in diameter) that screws directly into the first stage.
Needs a mention of either Apeks' or Omniswivel's HP Y-block adaptors for holding a Tx and SPG...
My setup is a transmitter on a 4 inch hose with an air integrated dive computer on the other HP port. Two SPGs and two computers. The transmitter with or without a hose is another point of entanglement, so be prepared.
Hi, what kind of hose would I want for an AL transmitter?
Any high pressure hose. All scuba diving high pressure hoses have a 7/16" thread on both ends so, they're the closest thing to universal we have in regs.
You'll also need a swivel pin between the hose and the transmitter for it to seal properly.
Thanks for the instructive explanation. Would you recommend to detach the transmitter when not in use for some time? Or would it be just OK to leave it attached to the hose/first stage?
It should be fine to leave it in place. Transmitters will go into a sleep mode when depressurised so your battery should be ok. After 6 months though I would be checking the O-ring to make sure it hasn't hardened or flattened.
Had mine on the 1st stage, when my D10 fell cause someone knocked it over it was broken off😢. Through his insurance i got a new one 😊, and ever since it is on a 10 cm hose.
I have a Shearwater that I wear on my left wrist, and I currently have an SPG attached to the left side of my reg setup. Would it be ok to put the transmitter on the right HP house?
It _should_ be OK. That's a very typical setup for divers. You may get some LOS with an out-stretched arm but holding it in front of you as normal should be well within the 1m radius and I've never had an issue in that configuration.
I purchased a short hose after watching this video. The hose leaks at the transmitter no matter how tight I make it. The o ring is fine. I took the hose back off and put the transmitter back on to the first stage directly and no leak. What am I doing wrong?
You're probably missing a swivel pin. there should be a small metal bar with two O-rings that sits between the hose and the transmitter.
Watch this video to see what I'm talking about: ruclips.net/video/mLgbNHeK6ew/видео.html
It’s worth noting that some transmitters (Like Garmin) world require a special spanner wrench or a wrench that’s ground down very thin if you want to mount it directly to your first stage.
Thin wrenches are pretty common. The smaller size Knipex pliers wrenches will also fit.
Hello Mark, quick question. Does leaving the o-ring on the base of the transmitter when screwing it to the short hose have any effect? I assume the swivel pin should be enough to make a proper seal. Keep up the great work. Kind Regards.
Hi, in the video 'Do I Need a Swivel Pin on Every Hose?' (?v=mLgbNHeK6ew) from March 27th, 2024, Mark himself answering the question from @jodeci888 said "if you're attaching a transmitter to a hose then you don't need that O-Ring on your transmitter, just the swivel pin. That O-ring is just for when you attach the transmitter directly to your 1st stage". Hope it helps.
BTW, amazing channel with great content, thanks a lot!
No, there's no need for that O-ring to be left there, you only need that O-ring if it's attached directly to the 1st stage.
And thanks @Adiabatisch84 for the speedy reply
Great video Mark. However, given how reliable transmitters now are, I don’t really understand backup SPGs. I’ve never seen divers backup their spg with a second spg on their back gas… but suddenly transmitters, which serve the same purpose, need redundancy. If a transmitter fails you thumb the dive with plenty of gas contingency, just as you would if an spg failed
#askmark Thanks for all your great videos! I'm still newer to diving and predominantly dive in cold water. I am starting the journey of buying my own gear and transitioning to a twin set. I would like to know your observations on the difference between apeks MTX-R and MTX-RC? Is there a measurable benefit for the more expensive RC? Thanks for all your advice and information.
The only benefit is that breathing adjustment, and the colour I do prefer the dark grey of the -RC...
The MTX-R is quite a stiff breathe out of the box to help prevent it from freeflowing. For cold water diving that's great but, a lot of divers found it too stiff. So Apeks added the breathing adjustment in the -RC. The -RC doesn't have the NEDU rating that the -R has but it will still work perfectly fine in cold water.
I'd be happy with the -R but, I'd probably get my service tech to lighten it unless I was planning a very cold dive
#askmark just a note, people who are going to use the hose , should put a swivel in too.
A little off topic here but, what cylinder is that? A mares? Nice video btw, I already put a hose on my transmitter ;-)
It's a plastic demo cylinder from Mares. It's much easier to move around than a proper cylinder...
@@ScubaDiverMagazine Ok, that make sense, it looked too easy when it was lifted. I was hoping for a new development in cylinder technology that I was not aware of.
Mark I spent all weekend diving my rd1 and it had me thinking would you ever be interested in diving mechanical ccr
Hello, but the hose is it just a short hose or is it a “special” hose for the high pressure port?
Just a short high pressure hose. You can attach either a SPG or a transmitter to them.
#askmark if using a transmitter do you still need a spg? I do on my main, but not currently on my stage, a transmitter only, it’s a new setup so after a little advice. Thanks Nick
Not really, transmitter technology is very good today and while I do tend to use a SPG for redundancy, it isn't essential.
As long as you check the battery on the transmitter and dive computer often it should be fine. I can't remember the last time a transmitter failed on me and I've known a few divers who only use a transmitter. I still like the redundancy of an analogue SPG though...
🎉 thank you! Top computer!
I have my transmitter on a 24 inch hose attached to my inflater hose specifically to avoid having someone picking up by the pod
#ASKMARK is braided hoses or rubber ones better for this or does it matter ?
Either is fine. Braided tend to be skinny but, for a short hose it shouldn't matter very much.
Great video but you didn't cover the spool. So many don't know about that and then when their hose leaks, they think they have a bad hose.
I had mine direct on the first stage I used to live closer to beach and I would bicycle with my scuba gear in a tow behind trailer down to the water but one day I turned too fast and trailer flipped smashed my transmitter it was a 350 dollar mistake fun fun
Ouch, when gear falls over it always lands on the expensive part
6" hose vs 4" hose?
I've only seen very few 4" hoses, they're not a common length here in the UK. You may find them on the odd website but, not very common here.
#askmark Are there any ways that someone with a hyperactive gag reflex can learn to scuba dive? Is an expensive full face mask the only way?
There are shorter mouthpieces like the Comfobite that don't go particularly far into your mouth if that's what triggers it. Otherwise yes, a FFM is going to be your best option
#askmark Hi Mark, for a single tank configuration for about an hour of dive, would 63 cu ft tanks that weighs around 27 lbs work well?
I think having a lightweight tank would help with transportation and putting on gears on surface, but these don't seem like a common option for most divers.
What could be the potential compromises? Additionally, what do you think of Carbon composite SCUBA tanks that only weighs around 11 lbs? Would they cause too much buoyancy compared to steel tanks?
I love your contents, and thanks!
It depends on the dive and the diver. If you're staying shallow and have a good breathing rate then you could probably stretch a 63 for an hours dive. I'd rather bring a larger cylinder for extra gas though.
The light carbon cylinders aren't great for diving, they're too buoyant, fragile and have limited life-spans. They're lovely to carry around on the surface but, you need to carry more lead to counteract their buoyancy.