@@hybrid32494that's amazing and fantastic to hear. I just got mine a couple weeks ago and the only issue it had was the thermostat housing cracked, one of those lovely plastic parts, thankfully only took 20 min and $40 to fix myself.
hey!! thanks so much!! Really appreciate that, I've still got this car too. It's probably the nicest and all original/stock model still on the road. Considering this is the highest optioned one I have ever seen. If you've got any suggestions for other vids on this car I would always consider those.
hey my dude! I'm glad this video helped you out! Lets keep these cars on the road and alive! The one from this video is still doing well, you cannot kill it!
At the end of the video u said wait for it to cool down and repeat this process.. do you mean after it cools down, take the cap off again and unscrew the valve and accelerate for 2-3 min and then close it back up?
My friend is having the overheating issues. I just came across ur videos so i have yet to bleed the system which i can do tomorrow. One question i have is her check engine light is on and my OBDII reader is throwing the P1299 code. Would not bleeding the system cause that code to trip? Is that a common code when the system oberheats? Let me know before i go and buy those parts lol. Thanks
!!This is missing an important step!! You can find a PDF with the correct bleeding instructions online, but the main difference is that you also need to fill the coolant from the engine fill spot. It's above the thermostat housing and has a hexagonal entrance about the size of a T55, you can just remove it with a wrench though.
I NEED HELP I just had to change a hose from the reservoir tank because it was leaking coolant I would put in, and now that I got a new one and the tank is empty, I don’t know if I should just go straight into filling it up with coolant or bleeding it first. On a 2000 Lincoln ls v8
You gotta add coolant first, then open the bleed valve and wait until it drips out. Make sure to close the radiator cap when you see it being bleed from the bleed valve. Then repeat this process until you have a normal coolant level and the system is correctly pressurized. LEt me know how it, goes. good luck..
mines still overheats....it bubbles back in the reservoir and pushes all the coolant back in the reservoir but when i cut the car off you can hear coolant flowing through all the hoses.. things ive replaced thermostat housing thermostat all the front hoses reservoir tank heater control valve Pls help a brother out...... ps there is a leak on the driver side behind the front tire
hey my thunderbird brotha!!! Yup, same car, but yours costs a lot more, LOL. BTW is the There always is a cap on the thermostat housing, I never take it off. The thermostat is there and when it needs to be changed that's how you get to it in this car. Only add coolant to the overflow tank.
If you were to drain the coolant or have a bad leak, you would want to fill the coolant in at that cap first before adding coolant to the reservoir. It avoids a long and tedious coolant bleeding process. Especially if you have the car on jackstands in the front while doing all of this.
I have a 2006 ls v8 and had no issues until yesterday i was driving and it overheated. Parked it water was all over the ground towards the middle of car. Had to put full bottle of antifreeze in. Hasnt overheated again but i notice a slight leak from under middle of car.
So you got a leak somewhere. Check your overflow tank (Degas bottle) first. That is the most common failure point on these, they develop small cracks on the bottom where you literally can't see it until you remove the tank completely. Let me know. The crack basically expands as the coolant heats up once the crack develops.
@@hybrid32494 the car has leaked a few more times but no coolant missing from degas tank. Im about to just replace my water neck housing and thermostat. Then possibly water pump.
@@hybrid32494 i see that the water neck housing down pipe behind the thermostat has coolant sitting on it so tomorrow il take the thermostat off and check for a crack on that pipe
YUP, that is a major issue on these cars too. It's the water inlet, I replaced mine with a DOORMAN part from amazon a few years ago, it's been fine since. let me know.
I usually bleed the system anytime it is exposed to air. If you dont notice any overheating or heat/ac issues then you dont really need to bleed it if you only addded coolant to the degas tank.
ideally the entire system including the heater core should be full of coolant in order for it to be bled correctly. IT sounds like your DCCV is broken, thats why you get no heat. You can try bleeding it, it should still leak out the bleed valve, but it won't fix your DCCV, the dual coolant control valve.
Green coolant is okay and the Motorcraft stuff he uses in this is okay. Just do NOT use red coolant or dexacool, or any kind of methanol based coolant.
hello i have a lincoln ls 2000 v8 but i from mexico ,i see you forever but i dont understand english ,i used traductor ,can you send me the instructions please?
hey man! You need to bleed the system a few times in these cars, have you done that? IF a tiny air pocket is in the coolant system this can easily cause overheating . Also you could have the most common issue, a bad DCCV, have you ever changed it? The Dual Coolant Control Valve, I had mine replaced a few years ago.
hey buddy! What you are describing is usually a leak coming from the Degas bottle (overflow tank). IDK if you have ever replaced that part, but it's very common for it to develop small crack on the bottom where the hoses connect. It's hard to see because of the plastic trim in the way, but that is your first thing to check, let me kno.
@@hybrid32494 Wassup bro. I have a 2003 v8 i notice that its leaking coolant under the car close to the transmission the front area i have a video if you dont mind taking a look
Hey I got just bought a 2003 Lincoln ls V8. I got some bubbling from my degas bottle and so I’ve decided to change the reservoir with a new one because I’ve read about the crackling. Now before I add my coolant should I only add thru my degas bottle? I’ve seen other videos were they add thru the housing... I’d appreciate any feedback
@@chaps203 make sure anytime you add coolant that you bleed air out,its tedious time wise..but you have to bleed it multiple times or air pockets will cause your cooling sytem to weird out
hey my dude! You generally never have to bleed it, unless you had a coolant leak and needed to replace parts and.or add coolant. Otherwise the system is sealed, you're good to go!>
Luis Vargas The 2006 is the best model year for these, and also the last. If the car is in good shape and has no cooling issues or trans issues then thats a fair deal with those low miles. Make sure to check the carfax to see if its not a salvage title too and the miles seem legit.
The engine itself is one of the most reliable v8 ever built. It isn't without its flaws though. That reservoir bottle is known for cracking and so is the plastic thermostat housing. They also seem to go through tie rods fairly fast, probably not faster than any other car though and the 1-2 shift solenoid starts to shift hard after a while. I would advise getting nothing less than a 2003 model, as the earlier models than that had a Hydraulicly powered coolant fan, and it was known to fail. Also it says right on the bottle that the regular green antifreeze is fine just don't use the red stuff.
hey buddy! Sorry to hear that. I highly recommend you check your DCCV (dual coolant control valve). Almost always overheating is because these poorly designed values don't open correctly and restrict coolant flow. The one in this car was replaced also.
Hey. Dashboard check engine light, engine power reduced, and check engine temperature comes on along with going into limp mode. Heat works fine. I have an 06. Any idea?
hey buddy! You need to see if your coolant levels are normal, often times there will be an air bubble and the system will need to be bled. Check you coolant, that's your first priority. You could also have a bad Dual Coolant Control Valve, this sometimes will lower coolant flow, I've had it happen. Let me know.
@@hybrid32494I tried to bleed my 2000Lincoln LS and nothing would come out the bleeder. My coolant was disappearing some where though as the car got warm. I filled the jug up to the level for coolant. Any suggestions?
I have a 2002 Lincoln Ls v8 and I added some coolant since there was none in there as I crank the car up turnt the a/c on let the engine warn up the coolant just started to leak out and was blowing over the engine cause of the fan does anyone have any suggestions
hello, your 2002 GEn 1 model has a different cooling system than my 2004 Gen 2 model. Where did it leak/blow from? was it around the top radiator hoses or overflow tank?
hybrid32494 it leaked from the area where you pour the coolant but the dealership was saying something about a house or something needed to be replaced so I no everything would be a $1000
I have a Lincoln ls 2005 and there are no leaks and I have bleed the system more then 4 times and the fan keeps turning on but the engine is not running hot. Thanks for any answers
@@koollee You have air pockets in the coolant. Bleeding out the air will solve this. I had the same problem. I FINALLY solved this with the use of a reservoir bucket mounted on the radiator cap. This whole process took 15 or 20- minutes. The technique used in this video did not work for me. I had to do this after replacing some of the plastic hose connections located in the front of the engine. I have a 2005 V8.
I have the same knocking coming from the radiator or some part of the cooling system, I've had it for over 4 years, car is still fine and not loosing or consuming coolant at all. Im not sure what this is related to, possibly a bad coolant control valve or a clog in the system. The bleed process works either way, but has not stopped the knocking I've noticed. Can you tell me if your entire radiator is hot, or oil half of it gets hot, mine stays hot on one side and cooler on the other (much much cooler). Most likely it's clogged somehow.
@@hybrid32494 It started while I was performing your process. Every time it knocks, it burps air out of the bleed valve. I'm not sure about the temperatures of the radiator, I'll get back to you on that, but I don't know how you could have a fine working system if it is indeed clogged like that.
Yep, mine works perfectly, also cant explain it. Heat is good, no overheating, no coolant losses at all. And yet literally half the radiator stays cool. BTW my radiator isn't that old, was replaced by FORD around 5 years ago.
hey buddy! You sometimes need to do this 2-3 times, so allow the system to heat up & cool down before the multiple bleed attempts. There could also still be air pockets in the system. Also the DCCV is typically to blame for any other cooling related issues in these cars, and that's about a 95% chance of being your issue, the DCCV.
hey man, It's recommended that you do this several times by FORD themselves because there may be air bubbles in the system and as you let the car heat up and cool down the bleeding process should be more effective with the 2+ cycles. Mine has been fine since I published this video. I also though it was a load of BS, but these cars are way more complicated than needed, so this is what it's got to be.
hybrid32494 okay yeah I figured that out last night I was over heating and I guess I have a bad leak it took 3 gallons after getting the air out and yeah now I realize and plus I’m super proud of my self I went from stranded and over heated to driving with ac lmao I was stuck for 3 hours but thank you that made a lot of sense
I put the car on had the heat on and I rev it up to 2500 each time for like a minute. my reservoir tank is boiling then it dissipates. aslo the valve is open I was getting bubbles at first now it just a little stream coming out now. so I'm letting the car cool down to add more coolant cause I lost some while bleeding. so you can give an answer If I'm doing it right that be great
Just thought I'd let you know your videos are still helping people with these cars. THANK YOU SO MUCH
Thank you my dude! BTW as an update for you, I still own this car and it's still fully drivable and nothing wrong with it.
@@hybrid32494that's amazing and fantastic to hear. I just got mine a couple weeks ago and the only issue it had was the thermostat housing cracked, one of those lovely plastic parts, thankfully only took 20 min and $40 to fix myself.
You're awesome man.. I only watch ur videos when I need to know something about my LS... your 04 looks great bro
hey!! thanks so much!! Really appreciate that, I've still got this car too. It's probably the nicest and all original/stock model still on the road. Considering this is the highest optioned one I have ever seen. If you've got any suggestions for other vids on this car I would always consider those.
subs!!
Thanks I have a tbird and need this done. U saved me some money!
hey my dude! I'm glad this video helped you out! Lets keep these cars on the road and alive! The one from this video is still doing well, you cannot kill it!
This is precisely what I needed! Thanks man, I've always been terrible with cars and this video was incredibly helpful for my new LS V8
I can't believe this worked. You just saved me at least a couple hundred bucks. 🤗
How many times did you do that?
At the end of the video u said wait for it to cool down and repeat this process.. do you mean after it cools down, take the cap off again and unscrew the valve and accelerate for 2-3 min and then close it back up?
Question:
Do we bleed the system if the vehicle overheated?
This has happened twice.
Thank you
My friend is having the overheating issues. I just came across ur videos so i have yet to bleed the system which i can do tomorrow. One question i have is her check engine light is on and my OBDII reader is throwing the P1299 code. Would not bleeding the system cause that code to trip? Is that a common code when the system oberheats? Let me know before i go and buy those parts lol. Thanks
Thanks! I'll do this in the morning.
glad to help!!!, let me know how it goes.
!!This is missing an important step!! You can find a PDF with the correct bleeding instructions online, but the main difference is that you also need to fill the coolant from the engine fill spot. It's above the thermostat housing and has a hexagonal entrance about the size of a T55, you can just remove it with a wrench though.
I NEED HELP
I just had to change a hose from the reservoir tank because it was leaking coolant I would put in, and now that I got a new one and the tank is empty, I don’t know if I should just go straight into filling it up with coolant or bleeding it first. On a 2000 Lincoln ls v8
You gotta add coolant first, then open the bleed valve and wait until it drips out. Make sure to close the radiator cap when you see it being bleed from the bleed valve. Then repeat this process until you have a normal coolant level and the system is correctly pressurized. LEt me know how it, goes. good luck..
mines still overheats....it bubbles back in the reservoir and pushes all the coolant back in the reservoir but when i cut the car off you can hear coolant flowing through all the hoses..
things ive replaced
thermostat housing
thermostat
all the front hoses
reservoir tank
heater control valve
Pls help a brother out...... ps there is a leak on the driver side behind the front tire
Is there a radiator cap on a 2000 LS? Or just the reservoir cap by the windshield? Thx!
Thanks for the video. I have a 2003 T Bird,...same engine. Why is there a cap on the thermostat housing?
hey my thunderbird brotha!!! Yup, same car, but yours costs a lot more, LOL. BTW is the There always is a cap on the thermostat housing, I never take it off. The thermostat is there and when it needs to be changed that's how you get to it in this car. Only add coolant to the overflow tank.
That's where you're really suppose to pour the coolant in and then do the steps he did
If you were to drain the coolant or have a bad leak, you would want to fill the coolant in at that cap first before adding coolant to the reservoir. It avoids a long and tedious coolant bleeding process. Especially if you have the car on jackstands in the front while doing all of this.
I have a 2006 ls v8 and had no issues until yesterday i was driving and it overheated. Parked it water was all over the ground towards the middle of car. Had to put full bottle of antifreeze in. Hasnt overheated again but i notice a slight leak from under middle of car.
So you got a leak somewhere. Check your overflow tank (Degas bottle) first. That is the most common failure point on these, they develop small cracks on the bottom where you literally can't see it until you remove the tank completely. Let me know. The crack basically expands as the coolant heats up once the crack develops.
@@hybrid32494 the car has leaked a few more times but no coolant missing from degas tank. Im about to just replace my water neck housing and thermostat. Then possibly water pump.
@@hybrid32494 but since im taking some parts off tomorrow il be taking the tank off to and look
@@hybrid32494 i see that the water neck housing down pipe behind the thermostat has coolant sitting on it so tomorrow il take the thermostat off and check for a crack on that pipe
YUP, that is a major issue on these cars too. It's the water inlet, I replaced mine with a DOORMAN part from amazon a few years ago, it's been fine since. let me know.
thank you! fast and informative
I just noticed I was low on coolant. Is it necessary to bleed everytime I add coolant or only if its really low?
I usually bleed the system anytime it is exposed to air. If you dont notice any overheating or heat/ac issues then you dont really need to bleed it if you only addded coolant to the degas tank.
Thank you. Appreciate you taking the time to reply!
My 01 ls is overheating while A/C is on and in slow traffic. Ive replaced the Fan and Thermostat. Have you had any issue like this
commenting so I can find this later
Will it still bleed the air out if my car is not getting any heat? I did the heater on but no heat comes thru..
ideally the entire system including the heater core should be full of coolant in order for it to be bled correctly. IT sounds like your DCCV is broken, thats why you get no heat. You can try bleeding it, it should still leak out the bleed valve, but it won't fix your DCCV, the dual coolant control valve.
Would apex universal coolant be ok to use in my 2003 lincoln ls v8
Green coolant is okay and the Motorcraft stuff he uses in this is okay. Just do NOT use red coolant or dexacool, or any kind of methanol based coolant.
As long as it 50 50.
hello i have a lincoln ls 2000 v8 but i from mexico ,i see you forever but i dont understand english ,i used traductor ,can you send me the instructions please?
Necessitats ayuda?, ay me avisas.
My car overheating i change temperature sensor and continue whats you think i can fix?
hey man! You need to bleed the system a few times in these cars, have you done that? IF a tiny air pocket is in the coolant system this can easily cause overheating . Also you could have the most common issue, a bad DCCV, have you ever changed it? The Dual Coolant Control Valve, I had mine replaced a few years ago.
@@hybrid32494 whats is DCCV ? About bleed is same process on this video right?
@@hybrid32494 so i mean where is located
@@hybrid32494 ohhh i forget in dash appear failsafe mode.... maybe is for this reason or need replace DCCV and Bleed.
.Bought an Identical 04 last September.Same problem but this seems easy also whats a DCCV?
Dccv valve is th heater control valve and they are known for having issues in these cars
Have you had any issues with coolant leaking under the car closr to the transmission?
hey buddy! What you are describing is usually a leak coming from the Degas bottle (overflow tank). IDK if you have ever replaced that part, but it's very common for it to develop small crack on the bottom where the hoses connect. It's hard to see because of the plastic trim in the way, but that is your first thing to check, let me kno.
@@hybrid32494 Wassup bro. I have a 2003 v8 i notice that its leaking coolant under the car close to the transmission the front area i have a video if you dont mind taking a look
Hey I got just bought a 2003 Lincoln ls V8. I got some bubbling from my degas bottle and so I’ve decided to change the reservoir with a new one because I’ve read about the crackling. Now before I add my coolant should I only add thru my degas bottle? I’ve seen other videos were they add thru the housing... I’d appreciate any feedback
Did you ever fix this or get it fixed? I think I'm having the same problem
@@chaps203 make sure anytime you add coolant that you bleed air out,its tedious time wise..but you have to bleed it multiple times or air pockets will cause your cooling sytem to weird out
I never bleed my coolant system and car temp gauge stay in the middle.
hey my dude! You generally never have to bleed it, unless you had a coolant leak and needed to replace parts and.or add coolant. Otherwise the system is sealed, you're good to go!>
Are the 2006 v8s trustworthy got a deal 67k miles for 3500
Luis Vargas The 2006 is the best model year for these, and also the last. If the car is in good shape and has no cooling issues or trans issues then thats a fair deal with those low miles. Make sure to check the carfax to see if its not a salvage title too and the miles seem legit.
The engine itself is one of the most reliable v8 ever built. It isn't without its flaws though. That reservoir bottle is known for cracking and so is the plastic thermostat housing. They also seem to go through tie rods fairly fast, probably not faster than any other car though and the 1-2 shift solenoid starts to shift hard after a while. I would advise getting nothing less than a 2003 model, as the earlier models than that had a Hydraulicly powered coolant fan, and it was known to fail.
Also it says right on the bottle that the regular green antifreeze is fine just don't use the red stuff.
2003 85k for 2k perfect interior. Fully Loaded.
Man it worked for 2 days and started over heating again.. I’ve tried the process a few more times and it just won’t work.
hey buddy! Sorry to hear that. I highly recommend you check your DCCV (dual coolant control valve). Almost always overheating is because these poorly designed values don't open correctly and restrict coolant flow. The one in this car was replaced also.
What about other cooling system there is 2 caps for a reason
what other cooling system? DO you mean the radiator cap or the water inlet housing cap where the thermostat sits?
@@hybrid32494 he may mean the fan coolant reservoir located on the left side well thats whete mine is on my 02
Hey. Dashboard check engine light, engine power reduced, and check engine temperature comes on along with going into limp mode. Heat works fine. I have an 06. Any idea?
hey buddy! You need to see if your coolant levels are normal, often times there will be an air bubble and the system will need to be bled. Check you coolant, that's your first priority. You could also have a bad Dual Coolant Control Valve, this sometimes will lower coolant flow, I've had it happen. Let me know.
@@hybrid32494I tried to bleed my 2000Lincoln LS and nothing would come out the bleeder. My coolant was disappearing some where though as the car got warm. I filled the jug up to the level for coolant. Any suggestions?
I have a 2002 Lincoln Ls v8 and I added some coolant since there was none in there as I crank the car up turnt the a/c on let the engine warn up the coolant just started to leak out and was blowing over the engine cause of the fan does anyone have any suggestions
hello, your 2002 GEn 1 model has a different cooling system than my 2004 Gen 2 model. Where did it leak/blow from? was it around the top radiator hoses or overflow tank?
hybrid32494 it leaked from the area where you pour the coolant but the dealership was saying something about a house or something needed to be replaced so I no everything would be a $1000
so did you wind up repair it? Sounds like you just had a bas hose or your overflow tank was busted (this is pretty common).
I have a Lincoln ls 2005 and there are no leaks and I have bleed the system more then 4 times and the fan keeps turning on but the engine is not running hot. Thanks for any answers
Cud be the car thinking the ac is on. Im not sure but when the cold air is on, fans usually run also
@@koollee You have air pockets in the coolant. Bleeding out the air will solve this. I had the same problem. I FINALLY solved this with the use of a reservoir bucket mounted on the radiator cap. This whole process took 15 or 20- minutes. The technique used in this video did not work for me. I had to do this after replacing some of the plastic hose connections located in the front of the engine. I have a 2005 V8.
Is it this easy for a 2001 Lincoln Continental?
There's a knock in the radiator with the same rhythm as air comes out of the bleed valve. Will it eventually leak all the air?
I have the same knocking coming from the radiator or some part of the cooling system, I've had it for over 4 years, car is still fine and not loosing or consuming coolant at all. Im not sure what this is related to, possibly a bad coolant control valve or a clog in the system. The bleed process works either way, but has not stopped the knocking I've noticed. Can you tell me if your entire radiator is hot, or oil half of it gets hot, mine stays hot on one side and cooler on the other (much much cooler). Most likely it's clogged somehow.
@@hybrid32494 It started while I was performing your process. Every time it knocks, it burps air out of the bleed valve. I'm not sure about the temperatures of the radiator, I'll get back to you on that, but I don't know how you could have a fine working system if it is indeed clogged like that.
Yep, mine works perfectly, also cant explain it. Heat is good, no overheating, no coolant losses at all. And yet literally half the radiator stays cool. BTW my radiator isn't that old, was replaced by FORD around 5 years ago.
How many times do you repeat the process?
hey buddy! You sometimes need to do this 2-3 times, so allow the system to heat up & cool down before the multiple bleed attempts. There could also still be air pockets in the system. Also the DCCV is typically to blame for any other cooling related issues in these cars, and that's about a 95% chance of being your issue, the DCCV.
Why do you repeat it?
hey man, It's recommended that you do this several times by FORD themselves because there may be air bubbles in the system and as you let the car heat up and cool down the bleeding process should be more effective with the 2+ cycles. Mine has been fine since I published this video. I also though it was a load of BS, but these cars are way more complicated than needed, so this is what it's got to be.
hybrid32494 okay yeah I figured that out last night I was over heating and I guess I have a bad leak it took 3 gallons after getting the air out and yeah now I realize and plus I’m super proud of my self I went from stranded and over heated to driving with ac lmao I was stuck for 3 hours but thank you that made a lot of sense
Just pick up a 2006 LS V8 with 93k for my wife
NICE!! Thats the best model year for sure, good purchase!!! I've still got mine, drove it today..
I know its late but I have a 2001 with 90k for 400
hey bud I have air bubbles in my tank I bleed it but i just dont knoe if all the air bubbles are out. how do I tell ??
I put the car on had the heat on and I rev it up to 2500 each time for like a minute. my reservoir tank is boiling then it dissipates. aslo the valve is open I was getting bubbles at first now it just a little stream coming out now. so I'm letting the car cool down to add more coolant cause I lost some while bleeding. so you can give an answer If I'm doing it right that be great
Repair air conditioning system 2000 LS Lincoln
What an awful car/engine. Makes me appreciate working on Mercedes and BMW. British engineering is the worst
O ok no no no do not do what he says u will reck stuff