Thanks Luis, my car went into 'slow' mode the other day while driving on the highway - dropped to 20kph and wouldn't rev at all. Turned it off, waited a minute, started it again and away we went! Didn't want that to happen again so went online and found that it was probably dry solder joints - guess where? It made me think that the 'no start' problems I had last year might be related to same issue. Did a search and found this post. About to go to work on it. Thanks again.
@@tonyredmond7063 great! Yes I figured it out when my symptoms would only happen on hot days and thought well metal expands and the solder could be expanding and when I checked there where where cracks between the pins and the solder. Keep us posted and good luck.
Hi brilliant thanks my car sat for 2 years replace fuel pump regulator starting motor aclecter switch also bought from China a new k40 fuse with hardware missing and thanks to your video my car starts
Thank you for sharing this I have a problem overheating the engine fan is not working properly the pump is normal something with wires can you point me in right direction? What to look for
GOOD VID! I HV A SIMILAR ISSUE WITH A '98 SLK230 BUT I HV NO LIGHTS ON THE DASH IN ADDITION TO NO CRANK, NO START. HAVE U HEARD OF THE "CRASH SEPARATOR"?? MINE MAY NOT B FUNCTIONING AS IT LOOKS LIKE THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT. LET ME KNOW UR THOUGHTS. THANK YOU.
@@IamLuisAlvarez Thanks...I think mbz ran this for 3 years...97-99(?) and was designed to cut off power from battery in the event of a rollover which may create a fire thus no crank/start. Will continue to research my issue
Just did this same trick on my partners (RHD) SLK - I heated up all the solder points on the K40 board to remelt the existing solder. Fired up first time. I also did this to the electric seat relay when they became intermittent - haven't had an issue since. Thanks for sharing this with the world!
I wish I would have recorded all the times I’ve worked on my car. It would have helped so many people since there are no videos online of these cars lol
Hi, I see you have the same problem as me. I have a Mercedes SLK 230. I can unlock the car with the key. The mobiliser light is on when I put the key in the mobiliser light goes out so I’ve been told the key does work. When I go to start the car, it comes up, starter error When I start the car, it starts up for two seconds then cut out. I have spark I have fuel to the rail but it feels like that there is no fuel going to the injectors into the engine. But if I bypass the starting order and do it manually and take the air pipe off the throttle body and poor fuel down the throttle body and start the engine it fires up. What do you think this is.
Could be a couple things but maybe the fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pump is bad, can yoy hear the fuel pump hum when you turn the key to the on position?
@@IamLuisAlvarez hi that’s what we thought it was the fuel pump and fuel filter so we put a brand-new one on and yes you can hear the pump when you turn the ignition on it is pumping up to the rail It has got high pressure, but feels like the engine is not telling the injectors to open to feed the fuel. Any help would be much appreciated.
@@IamLuisAlvarez I did check them and they are okay, but I did buy a new one for peace of mind. I have been told that it is the key not marrying up with the ACU and the mobiliser. I am going to get electrician to have a look at that. When I have seen a lot of cars, especially Mercedes SLK getting scrapped just with this issue. I just want someone to say yes I can delete your mobiliser and the car will start. That’s what I’m hoping for. Thank you for your information.
I need to bypass he Immobilizer module in my 1998 SLK230. Not worried about someone stealing it, just for my daughter to drive to school. I live in the Philippines & it is hard to get parts or information. Thanks
@jasonpreston3656 check all the solder points, I just recently lost acceleration power with no engine codes. I decided to check that relay and I noticed the solder points looked pretty weak. Heated them up with a solder pen and everything is back to normal
Hello my car do turn over but is not starting up or firing up and the starter work but the car is not turning on, i replaced the alternator and is still not turning, will be helpful if you kindly help me thank you so much
Just curious, was your problem intermittent? Randomly my car won't when it's warm, but it doesn't happen very often. I don't even have any check engine light or codes.
It was at first. I didn't think this was the probl at first so I started by checking the battery terminals and cleaning them. Sometimes I would open and close the hood and that seemed to work for a bit when it wouldn't start. But after I chenged the starter and alternator I figured it had to be something else. Check the area I pointed out in the video and you can tell if the solder points looked cracked
@@IamLuisAlvarez thanks for the tip! my car wouldn't crank, checked my battery and it was kinda low, already two years old so I decided to replace it. Car was fine, then after a day had a no crank situation after going to a gas station, after a few minutes, it fired right up. I'll definitely look into the relay. Already had my alternator replaced two years ago.
@@IamLuisAlvarez Okay! Well the previous owner of my 1999 SLK230 messed with some of the wiring. My headlights went out because the fuse that they were connected to (on only one wire) melted. I replaced the fuse, but I want to know how I can get my headlights back, and where I'm supposed to actually put the wire/wires. Unfortunately I can't send any pictures here so hopefully my above description is sufficient.
Thanks Luis, my car went into 'slow' mode the other day while driving on the highway - dropped to 20kph and wouldn't rev at all. Turned it off, waited a minute, started it again and away we went! Didn't want that to happen again so went online and found that it was probably dry solder joints - guess where? It made me think that the 'no start' problems I had last year might be related to same issue. Did a search and found this post. About to go to work on it. Thanks again.
@@tonyredmond7063 great! Yes I figured it out when my symptoms would only happen on hot days and thought well metal expands and the solder could be expanding and when I checked there where where cracks between the pins and the solder. Keep us posted and good luck.
Hi brilliant thanks my car sat for 2 years replace fuel pump regulator starting motor aclecter switch also bought from China a new k40 fuse with hardware missing and thanks to your video my car starts
@@tropicaltorpedoes3573 that makes me very happy to hear🙏👌
Thx brother just started experiencing that problem.
yes sir lmk if you have any questions
Thank you for sharing this I have a problem overheating the engine fan is not working properly the pump is normal something with wires can you point me in right direction? What to look for
Check the fan relay. Or test the fan by applying voltage to the hot wire and grounding the negative on the fan. Good luck
Awesome! Thanks
GOOD VID! I HV A SIMILAR ISSUE WITH A '98 SLK230 BUT I HV NO LIGHTS ON THE DASH IN ADDITION TO NO CRANK, NO START. HAVE U HEARD OF THE "CRASH SEPARATOR"?? MINE MAY NOT B FUNCTIONING AS IT LOOKS LIKE THE VEHICLE HAD BEEN IN AN ACCIDENT. LET ME KNOW UR THOUGHTS. THANK YOU.
@lincolnvlogs8965 I haven't heard of it on this car but maybe there is a way you can reset it?
@@IamLuisAlvarez Thanks...I think mbz ran this for 3 years...97-99(?) and was designed to cut off power from battery in the event of a rollover which may create a fire thus no crank/start. Will continue to research my issue
Hv to replace once it has cut power. Safety!
Just did this same trick on my partners (RHD) SLK - I heated up all the solder points on the K40 board to remelt the existing solder. Fired up first time.
I also did this to the electric seat relay when they became intermittent - haven't had an issue since.
Thanks for sharing this with the world!
I wish I would have recorded all the times I’ve worked on my car. It would have helped so many people since there are no videos online of these cars lol
Hi, I see you have the same problem as me. I have a Mercedes SLK 230. I can unlock the car with the key. The mobiliser light is on when I put the key in the mobiliser light goes out so I’ve been told the key does work. When I go to start the car, it comes up, starter error When I start the car, it starts up for two seconds then cut out. I have spark I have fuel to the rail but it feels like that there is no fuel going to the injectors into the engine. But if I bypass the starting order and do it manually and take the air pipe off the throttle body and poor fuel down the throttle body and start the engine it fires up. What do you think this is.
Could be a couple things but maybe the fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pump is bad, can yoy hear the fuel pump hum when you turn the key to the on position?
@@IamLuisAlvarez hi that’s what we thought it was the fuel pump and fuel filter so we put a brand-new one on and yes you can hear the pump when you turn the ignition on it is pumping up to the rail It has got high pressure, but feels like the engine is not telling the injectors to open to feed the fuel. Any help would be much appreciated.
@@tonymaddison3554 did you check the solder points like in the video?
@@IamLuisAlvarez I did check them and they are okay, but I did buy a new one for peace of mind. I have been told that it is the key not marrying up with the ACU and the mobiliser. I am going to get electrician to have a look at that. When I have seen a lot of cars, especially Mercedes SLK getting scrapped just with this issue. I just want someone to say yes I can delete your mobiliser and the car will start. That’s what I’m hoping for. Thank you for your information.
@@tonymaddison3554 let us know what the fix is im sure people would find that helpful thank you and good luck
I need to bypass he Immobilizer module in my 1998 SLK230. Not worried about someone stealing it, just for my daughter to drive to school. I live in the Philippines & it is hard to get parts or information. Thanks
Hello Sir, just want to ask if you were able to bypass the immobilizer? I am from the Philippines too. Thanks!!
I’m a year late but hopefully this gets to someone,mine cranks but sounds like it’s still trying to crank, even though it’s running it idles rough
@jasonpreston3656 check all the solder points, I just recently lost acceleration power with no engine codes. I decided to check that relay and I noticed the solder points looked pretty weak. Heated them up with a solder pen and everything is back to normal
Where hold this be for a 06 Mercedes SLK350 R171?????
@benjaminmercy1071 check the solder points on that relay, it could be near the same area
Hello my car do turn over but is not starting up or firing up and the starter work but the car is not turning on, i replaced the alternator and is still not turning, will be helpful if you kindly help me thank you so much
Ignition wires on top of the valve cover possibly. Hope you got it fixed!
Just curious, was your problem intermittent? Randomly my car won't when it's warm, but it doesn't happen very often. I don't even have any check engine light or codes.
It was at first. I didn't think this was the probl at first so I started by checking the battery terminals and cleaning them. Sometimes I would open and close the hood and that seemed to work for a bit when it wouldn't start. But after I chenged the starter and alternator I figured it had to be something else. Check the area I pointed out in the video and you can tell if the solder points looked cracked
@@IamLuisAlvarez thanks for the tip! my car wouldn't crank, checked my battery and it was kinda low, already two years old so I decided to replace it. Car was fine, then after a day had a no crank situation after going to a gas station, after a few minutes, it fired right up. I'll definitely look into the relay. Already had my alternator replaced two years ago.
could be the crank position sensor happens when it gets warm. it's known on this engine to occur@@KirkMartyPeralta
My 99 SLK230 has no start no crank but all the dash lights do come on did you have the same indication?
Could be it try it and it could work
I tried it and started right up. Thnx.
Mine is doing this. Yesterday it sounded like the fan was going to take flight until i turned the key off.
is it K20 or is it K40?
K20 I believe
@@IamLuisAlvarez It is K40, all 96-02 mercedes have this.
It clicks and fan turns on . Could it be the starter
Could be I recommend you get the battery charged and try again
Hello, i was wondering if i could contact you privately about an issue im having with my slk230
Sure or you can just ask me here I think that would be easier
@@IamLuisAlvarez Okay! Well the previous owner of my 1999 SLK230 messed with some of the wiring. My headlights went out because the fuse that they were connected to (on only one wire) melted. I replaced the fuse, but I want to know how I can get my headlights back, and where I'm supposed to actually put the wire/wires. Unfortunately I can't send any pictures here so hopefully my above description is sufficient.