Wow, I just bought an M from a older gentleman. They bought it in 1950. I best check those bottom plugs for water. I changed the oil and filter already. Thank you so much for this video. Iowa is watching
I think the water leaked in through the transmission covers recessed bolts. I had a number of broken lock washers and with it sitting outside, even under a tarp, I think blowing rain, snow and ice rested in those and went right on into the housing. There's a whole series on servicing this H which most things are just like most M's, just smaller. Try this one if you like: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG
I sure don't know either Ramon. When its just a pint or so it can be attributed to internal condensation but this quantity has to have seeped in somewhere I've not yet found. The shifter boot is a metal dome that shields the whole area. The transmission housing cover has recessed bolts heads and most of the lock washers were cracked into two halves....don't know if that's it or not.
Good evening Sir, you did several great modifications Sir ! The condensation come inside the rear differential from the vent hole and the same differential do not heat high enough the oil to evaporate that humidity trough of vent cap even during the summer. So when the rear was starting to act frozen on the farm we were heating the rear differential and then drain the oil to put new one. Now I never see so much water for sure, usually it is only 1-2 cup of water,,, but not a full gallon !!! Yes in deed a flush is required for sure ! It is nice to see your AC LINCOLN BUZZ BOX SIR ! Keep up what ever you are doing Sir and I will follow you ! Great engine start ! Great video from a great man ! Cheers !!!
I think all this water entered through the top of the housing around all the assembly bolts. They are each fitted into recesses that can fill with water and seep around the threads and all but two of the bolts had broken lock washers. So I had like 13 miniature funnels holding water every time it rained. But I'm just guessing. That Lincoln is one of the old copper wound welders. Its good and heavy but it has a rotted power cord and was just given to me recently. I'm going to fix the cord and send it down to my son's house so he can do repairs down there too.
Is there anything you can't fix? I never worry about how you fix things because you are the consummate professional mechanic. Loved this video and learned something as well...
Now Raymond, don't give me quite so much credit....I might have to buy a whole new set of hats just to fit my big head !! I am glad to see you enjoyed the video. There are several more in the series for this old H. Thank you my friend for the awesome comment by the way !! (-:
Thanks brother. Rebuilding one through my refurbishing company now and videos like this help me understand what I cannot through text or by myself. Appreciate it.
Love the video I picked up an old farmal h couple weeks ago had to replace a lot on it so far. These tractors are basically built on common sense but there's one thing that stumps me. My gear shift moves left and right like it's in neutral but when u let off the clutch it's in 1st gear I can't find reverse gear and the gear shift goes forward so far it touches the plate that the starter button is on. I just done a oil and filter and gasket change doing the rear end next because the tractor pops loud when moving it. I checked the rear end fluid out of the level port u showed and it was empty at that point. So definitely checking to see how much of what I got in it it's been sitting for close to 30 years I surprisingly got it running tho. So 🎉😂🎉 makes me feel better I didn't buy half a army tank. Seriously it rolled back on my foot and I tell ya what. 😮 Oww
Take a look at this video and maybe you'll see something interesting: ruclips.net/video/g9IXCCyYUug/видео.html. I have a complete playlist doing all sorts of stuff to an H right here: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG You may be able to solve the issue by removing the pin on the shifter to remove it. You may have a worn shifting fork that's slipped out of the slot for 1st and 2nd gear.
I've got a 1956 Farmall 400 with a F.E.L. I picked up at an auction a few year's ago. I needed to to a little excavating on my property so after I was done I parked it for a year or so. It sat in the Minnesota rain and snow. I decided to take off the seat and replace the rusted out battery box and I found a hole the size of a half dollar in the cover plate! I took off the cover plate to weld er up and found a small lake in there!
Now that ain't a good scenario at all !! Good thing you caught it when you did. That 400 is more than an M on steriods. I have a video in the editing line right now on my brothers '56 400 LP. Its got the torque amplifier and oversized jugs. He took it down to the last nut and bolt about ten years ago and did a total rebuild. Not a DuPont restoration....virtually every bearing and seal as well as engine internals down to the valve springs and keepers. New rubber and fancy paint now, but he still gets it out there and makes it earn its keep !! No loader though....
@@tractorman4461 I'll be looking out for that video! Mine came from a small feeder calf operation. The old fella used it to clean his cow yard and it had more cow muck on it than a manure spreader! I have the Torque Amplifier but no belt drive gear box. It has been converted from the two point hitch to a 3 point. The old fella found several part's after the auction and gave them to me including the 2 point and a new set of brake discs. It needed them too! Wore down to the steel's! Several other part's also along with a manual ( reproduction from Steiner Tractor Parts) . My grandfather was a Johnny Popper man ( had an A and a B) and a Ford 8n. No one used Farmalls on my mother's side of the family. Lots of Allis men and a couple of COOP guy's. My father's family farmed in North Dakota ( Rolla area) and only had one tractor. A Cletrac but I don't remember what year.( could have been a model 35) They did have several homemade "trucktors" though. I'll be watching and have a great and productive summer!
Oh NooOOOoooo Dave, THAT can't be good. I had that happen on a dirt bike one time, but I ran it off in a deep water hole to get it in there. Thanks for stopping in.
Very glad you’re doing a series on this H model. I just picked one up and am about to start working on getting it going. Thanks for another great video!
There is actually a whole playlist on this H. Twelve volt conversion, electrlyosis on the gas tank, coating the tank, power washing the final drive...transmission seals and input bearing...etc. Here's the playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG. Enjoy !!
Thank you William. I appreciate the nice words. Did you by chance see the playlist on the H ? I split it for seals and bearings and serviced the transmission rear end the right way. Here it is in case you've an interest. ruclips.net/video/f0NkvNo5QNc/видео.html 12 volt conversion as well.
Thank you Johnny V for the kind comment. Have you by chance found this playlist on this particular H ? ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG It's not complete yet because its still being worked on. There are also some 'first start' tractor videos in my playlists as well. In those, I kinda go through the basics of troubleshooting those that have been sitting a while. ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1uWqQ2hDCRVubPve9JlLzhw Feel free to let me know what you think.
Hi Wendell! Wow! That’s some nasty stuff that came out of the transmission! So glad you are going to trade that water for some real transmission oil! I think you’ll find it will work much better. LOL. Thanks for sharing!
Yes, I've heard that the lubricating qualities of oils are much better that those of water. LOL. Yes, it was pretty nasty but wait until you see how that is taken care of.
Awesome Bill, I am glad you stopped by. I have a whole playlist on this particular H: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG That'll help you find them easier if you decide to watch more.
Well, when the water drained out and the stick was stuck in and all the muck came out with the stick, it made it necessary to thoroughly power wash the insides. I couldn't just put seals in and fresh 80-90. So the project stretches on a bit further. Btw, your comment got sent to the spam folder with about 50 others from this and other videos.
Thank you. Have you by chance found the whole playlist of repairs/maintenance/12v conversion on this tractor..? If not and its something you may like, here it is: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG There may be other stuff in the playlist, but the whole set of H upgrades are here.
It was a real surprise to find that much water and no oil in there. But the tip off was how loud the gears sounded on the little 'drive around' the woodpile the other day.
I just noticed this video. That tractor sat outside. I've run across rear ends nearly full of water. The lower pitcock was also used when a tractor burned distillate we would drain the oil level to the lower level then add a quart. The distillate thinned the oil. Thank you Wendell.
This is the most I've seen in all the years I've been around tractors...and that's all my life. We ran Massey Harris tractors though and they all lived under roof. This was stored 20 years under roof before I got it, but it sat out for close to 10 after I got it. Tarped, but mostly only the motor. Not running Farmalls, I recently learned the reason for the weird oil level petcocks. And you confirmed it. Thanks Bryce for the cool comment. Btw, I have had my outside Masseys get enough water in to raise the 140 wt off the bottom to freeze the bull gears in place. Now when its near zero outside, its FUN to get them broke loose. At least that only happened twice. Live and learn huh.
@Tractorman44 Must be a Farmall thing. Dad's sat outside. Every spring we drained m8lky fluid out of the rear-end. I'm in process of putting newer bearings in my M pulley assembly, and rebuilding my magneto. It's been in my slightly older brother's shed for a decade.
@@brycewiborg8095 I think it IS a Farmall thing. Those trans-housing bolt holes go all the way through the casting flange and I think water seeps around the threads of the 13 or 14 cover bolts. Most of mine had broken lock washers as well. I need a new seal in the rear pto on the H, but the belt pulley seems fine. When I had the tranny top cover off, I serviced the belt pulley. Is this a purchase from you slightly older brother or just getting it going for him....? Side note, I might be in the market for an M motor if the M-Meile Blumberg grader tractor is going to take a total rebuild.
@Tractorman44 Actually I bought th3 M in rough shape from 2 Batchelor brothers whovhad bought it new. Since my slightly older brother has acreage it resides with him.We started it several years ago, but the mag is weak. 45 model with newer tin credited to a friend who was scrapping 3 M back in the 80s. I probably won't part with it because my brothers, and I enjoy reliving our youth.
@@brycewiborg8095 Good deal with the Slightly Older Brother having a bit of property !! I agree with reliving our youth. I try it daily....and I hope it shows in my videos. LOL My Much Older Brother is 83 and just finished a two stage clutch in his 301 JD. I stopped by and held the flywheel while he got a couple bolts started. I help him off and on when he needs it, but for the most part he wants to do it all !! That's the way to be. Never give up. He's got Masseys, JD's and Farmalls. Those old bachelor brother farmer types are slowly disappearing. I'm glad you got the one owner M.
Thanks Dan for the kind comment !! There is a whole playlist of the things I'm going through on this tractor. If you like, here it is: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG There should be a 12v conversion, adding a voltmeter instead of an ammeter, powerwashing the inside of the transmission....to name a few.
I do that from time to time on the daily drivers, but this one sat outside for many years before it came into the shop. My bad. Thanks John for watching.
For oil filters, I usually buy Wix filters, which come with the oil ring type seal. For the '40 H, it took the longer filter. Some of the earlier H's had the long filters while the later H's had the short filter. My '40 H needs the long filter, but someone at one point, put in a short filter. So, now it has the correct oil filter in it. I usually go down a few miles to Pine Valley Equipment, south of Potosi, Missouri, and buy the filters there.
Thanks Danny for watching and you get the Gold Star for the best comment of the day !! LOL Hey, if you are liking this video, I ended up doing a TON of work to this old Farmall, so I made a playlist of videos on it if you are interested. Twelve volt conversion. Adding a voltmeter and removing the ammeter....spltting the tractor in half and a bit more. Here it is: ruclips.net/video/f0NkvNo5QNc/видео.html
A lot of older mechanics blame the recessed bolts on the transmission top cover for the amount of water that gets in the transmission on these tractors. I'm not sure if that is true but I went ahead and took each bolt out and put some silicone sealer on each one just on case. The petcocks for checking the oil were also used to drain off kerosene on the kerosene engines. My '40 is a kerosene engine and the owners manual tells you to drain the kerosene off the oil everyday after the engine has cooled. You open the bottom petcock and drain off a quart of kerosene and then close it. Open the top petcock and refill with fresh oil. We ran our on straight gas when I was growing up so I never saw Dad drain it. I know a lot of people freak out when they see stuff like supporting the tractor like that. If they saw what we had to do on the farm to keep things going, they would have a heart attack!! 🤣🤣🤣Can't wait for the splitting video! 👍👍👍
See there...you being an old Farmall guy you just taught me something. I didn't know about the bleeding off the kerosene from the oil pan. I tell ya though, my strong suspicion is right there with you on the recessed bolts on the transmission cover. I think just about every one of the lock washers were broken into two pieces. With standing water in those recesses, I can see how that could possibly have been the multiple sources of entry. Splitting video coming soon !! Thanks for the input on the petcocks....so cool.
Sunex makes 8 point sockets for square nuts and they also make pipe plug sockets both male and female. Those are on my list for future tool purchases. Hope this helps you for future projects.
That’s good to know John. Thanks for the input. I’m just used to grabbing a twelve point and go. Sockets for the pipe plug is news to me too. I learn a lot from viewers !!
@@tractorman4461 I JUST went out to my "New To Me" IH240 and learned that I have a PTO shut off rod, behind the drivers seat, off to the passenger side.... It seems someone cut it off, once upon a time. I just painted it white with a paint pen. It's nice to be able to drive with my BrushHog NOT in Active Mode! God Bless! You might think these vids are something no one will watch, but there's a lot of younger guys and gals just starting out. Farming is cool now a days. People can't afford Brand New, or want to go Vintage. My "Linda" rocks. And now, she has a cut off switch thanks to your video. I hope you have as good a day as I'm having. Again, God Bless you and yours!
@@w.c.6678 Well, I tell ya W.C., nothing makes my day like that comment I just received from you !! Guys like me that have been around this old stuff since it was new sometimes assume everyone knows what's obvious to us. Its good to be reminded that sometimes the basics of machinery are really important too !! Turned out I had a great day too. I got a raggedy looking red cedar log, got to fire up the old Case backhoe, hauled it home in the old Ford truck and unloaded it with the Kubota !! Only shed a little blood in the process. LOL, not related though. There WILL be a video too !! LOL
Hahahaha....don't ask me to paint on on a canvas though...LOL. In case you'd like to see the whole playlist on this H, here it is: ruclips.net/video/f0NkvNo5QNc/видео.html. There might be something else thrown in there too, I don't remember for sure. Thanks Andrew for the smile today.
The belly pump gears are still turning when the clutch is released no matter the position of the control lever. Its simply the fluid is bypassing inside the unit. the lever is the Hyd control valve It restricts the bypass and fills a remote cyl. There are two outlets on one side and one on the other . the front two on each side are for the front cultivators. The rear one is for the rear cultivator. Its a delayed lift so the rears remain in the ground to the end of the row. You most likely will need to drop the belly pump and replace the seal on the drive. the belly pump isnt live hyd. It quits working when the clutch is depressed.
I was wondering how that all worked. I knew the pump drive stayed engaged, but didn't even think about the lever being just a control valve. That's interesting about the delay in the rear port...and that really makes sense. Btw, I never did make it back to the old timers to get the cultivators that went with it. Even though I'll never use them, it'd be good to have them for the next guy. What happened is I bought the tractor/ loaded it and brought it home. I ran into him in town a few weeks later and he asked why I didn't take the cultivators...I told him I didn't know they were in the deal too. LOL. Good thing he only lives less than two miles from here. I need to stop by one of these days.
I’m going to change mine soon I know there’s water inside this winter when it got extremely cold out you could tell. Are you planning on doing a seal replacement video on those shafts. From what I hear is if there out side in the weather eventually the water comes through on the top of the transmission where all the bolts are at.
I'm strongly suspecting that the recessed holes are the fault because most of the lockwashers were broken in half. Yes, I've done a video on the seal replacement as well as the transmission input shaft bearing replacement. The belly pump's shaft was double sealed by the way. Thanks for the comment Chris.
I recently read a report on the use of spring type lock washers and the mechanical engineer who authored the report found that lock washers of that type don't work as intended. He suggested that they not be used and liquid Loctite or it's equivalent be used instead. One of the reasons spring type lock washers have been used for decade's is that they are easy to put on where liquid thread locker is kind of messy to apply especially during the assembly of machinery. Apparently the only lock washers that worked as designed are the one's that have teeth on them. They look like a flat washer but have teeth on both surfaces. You abutt the teeth together and when the fastener is tighten down the teeth mesh and lock in place. They are called Nord- Lock washers. I quit using spring type lock washers and only use thread locking liquid now. As thread locker wasn't available when your tractor was manufactured spring type lock washers were all they had.
@@garyronan5568 That's interesting. I know over the years a great percentage of old equipment that comes apart has broken lock washers. In this case it was not a good scenario for the final drive. I use the Nord-lock washers a lot on smaller bolts but I didn't know what their name was. Thanks for the input Gary.
That's a great idea with the diesel fuel! Jacking up stuff always makes me break a sweat! I'm still nervous removing loaded tires lol the case needs the tires changed out and I've got a good set on my parts machine but they're loaded and I don't want to get squished lol my buddy Rick says he will help me out eventually, potentially a video mey get done if we survive 😜
Hahahahaha.....Andrew, you'll do just fine. I started changing the rear wheels around backwards when I was about 12 years old. Our cultivating tractor was a '41 Massey Harris 101 Junior with 36'' rears. We never ran fluid in those tires so they were easy for me to switch around for stretching over the rows. We had an overhead chain fall in the tool shed for this purpose as well as many other maintenance projects. Keep your eyes peeled for a cheap chain fall....they are priceless when working on these old gals.
@@ButlerOutdoorsCanada I bought two old..old..old chain falls for six bucks at a farm auction a few years back. Both work perfectly after a little oil.
Awsome.spot on.safety first always.seems tractors setting out are worse at getting water in trans an diffs and a few other areas.dozers an other equipment not quite so much.but plugs an exhaust gas caps ect just draw water.winter months will get ya inside building in time to.trans an diffs most neglected on any even new stuff.just takes time for tlc to get more years out of equipment.ih tractors an some others is a small plug before distributor shaft 90 or 140 or if won't hold a semi fluid grease will work if need.the growl when your running equipment is hello help me call.Thank You Sir.regular maintenance is cheap insurance.
I think this Farmall is the worst I've ever seen. I've had enough in the crank case of some of the Masseys to where they froze the bull gears in place and it took a lot of rocking back and forth to break loose. I'm surprised this one didn't freeze and break the rear end housing. I try to keep all the importand points covered, but apparently not good enough on this one !! Thanks Michael for the additional input on these old machines.
Hahahaha…. Sure surprised the devil outta me too. LOL. I have the whole series I a playlist up top to make it easier for guys to find them in one place. Thanks for watching and commenting. Editing a Farmall 400 video right this minute too !!
It's just five bolts and a gasket/silicone, but when I drained four or five gallons of water from a customer's H, I pulled the PTO shaft out to inspect and clean the gear case interior. I was quite surprised how clean it was in there.
That's cool to see one so clean like you had from that customer. This one had thick caked sludge along side the bull gears. Power washing was the best solution in this case. I pulled a JD A apart one time and found a broken PTO shaft had been laying at an angle across the bottom and had been being ground by the edge of one of the bull gears to where a groove was worn in the broken shaft all the way around it. If it would have lodged under the gear, it would have busted either the gear or the final drive case...one or the other. Got lucky on that one, but it came to me on a trade.
Great !! Thanks for watching Tony. Btw, that was my Dad's name. LOL There's a whole playlist on the H getting a bit of service. Here it is is you'd like to see them: ruclips.net/video/f0NkvNo5QNc/видео.html
There was some nasty stuff in there....bin a few years since the last dif maintenance.....when you get them seals in there, it should be good for another 50 years or so.....CHEERS
Well, that's interesting. As I recall, the old Internationals used a seasonal grade 10, 20 or 30 weight oil in the trans and rear end with an IH additive product. As time went on, a lot of people assumed heavier gear oil would be an appropriate replacement. Hy-Tran is the recommended replacement, but I use Rotella because it is half the price and about one hundred times better than the original oils. So, I guess that the water displaced the oil in the rear end forward, and it all leaked out those bad seals, just leaving the water trapped in the lowest point at the rear. I might just crack the drain on my 300 tomorrow. LOL
Its a good idea to check them at least once a year to be safe. This is the worst one I've dealt with so far. We always ran 140 in the Massey Harris transmissions/final drives but those were all heavy work tractors. I see no need for that thick of lube to go into these old guys that are never going to work crazy hard any longer. I don't know what they recommend, but I will check it out for sure. About the missing oil. I strongly suspect the sump was empty when I got if from the original owner. He said it'd been parked for 20 years inside the barn I extracted it from. If it leaked our here being displaced by the water, I would have a huge oil slick under it where it sat. So I think it was empty and this was leakage from rain and snow into the housing in the 6 to 8 years it sat here outside. Thanks William for the oil input.
John Deere makes A grease called Corn Head grease. It is semi-solid at room temperature but liqufies at higher temperatures I.E. when gear trains are running. I wonder how it would work in a tractor differential with leaky seals? It might save a man the trouble of replacing those seals. I also wonder about how it would act in cold climates. I live in Minnesota and it might be a problem in January!
@@garyronan5568 Boy o boy, I don't know. But if I was to try it, it would be on a tractor that's a spare and not a daily user just in case. That's an interesting concept though about the Corn Head grease. Another thing I never heard of. Heck, 140 wt in some of the smaller tractors makes 'em grunt to get moving when it hits below zero !! Mine no longer work, so 80-90 is good for them anytime they get a final drive fluid change. Some of the old dogs are still running 140 though.
Ya. It would be an interesting experiment but I'd rather try it on someone else's tractor first!. I follow the Weekend Freedom Machines website. They specialize in John Deere garden tractors and other John Deere equipment and several people have put Corn Head grease in the auger drive gear box on their snow blowers apparently without any problems. I have a John Deere snow blower I have for a backup machine but it still has 80-90W ( if I recall) it's old but still work's well so I would hate to blow up the gear box if it didn't work out!
@@garyronan5568 Hahaha...yes, that would be a bad day for sure. There's always improvements made in the lubrication industry. So much different that back in the day. Pretty much all we had was 30wt non-detergent for engines and 140 for trannys/final drives. Of course we didn't have the fancy fords or fergusons with the three point stuff...
Soon as I let out the clutch, I knew the sound of the gears wasn't right. That's why there was just ONE trip around the woodpile. LOL. Usually condensation is a pint at most. This quantity has got to be rain water infiltration. I'm suspecting the transmission cover mounting bolts. There's about 14 or more and most of them had broken lock washers. And the silly bolts are recessed in the casting so the bolt heads are flush with the top so water sits in those mini-reservoirs. Masseys have the bolt heads above the flat surface of the top.
@@tractorman4461 Ooooo, not too smart of an idea to use recessed bolts on the transmission cover. There's the 'inlet' for sure! You caught it, so no more damage from this point on!
In this video it was just diesel fuel to slosh and flush as much as I could get out. Eventually I used 80-90 wt once the trans/final drive was pressure washed with the trans cover removed. There is a whole series of videos on this tractor in the playlists up above. But this one is the power wash: ruclips.net/video/g9IXCCyYUug/видео.html
That's a very kind thing to offer. I do drink it black....unless its really BAD coffee. Then I still drink it black. Thanks John, for the smile this evening !!
I've decided it just can't be only from condensation. It has to have leaked in around the multiple recessed transmission cover mounting bolt holes. Most all the 7/16 lock washers were broken in two pieces and that could possibly have been the entry point. I'm still thinking it through Bob. I don't think it came in the shifter boot. It's a metal dome and not a rubber boot.
Naw....no damage to speak of. Just a little superficial rust. That's coming up in a follow up when the top cover comes off. Thanks Mike for the visit buddy.
that's about how much water that typically comes out of an H when you buy a used one, I bought a 2 owner 1941farmall h , the transmission bearings where not quiet. I checked it before i bought it, in front of the owner , and when all that water came out he acted surprised, because he stated he new the previous owner & neither of the 2 owners ever left it out side. they just didn't use it in the fields so the moisture that condenses never gets worked I told him / now with water being in there so long, lots of bearings are rusty and shot. He still wanted $1350 because it had new rear tires and tubes. But hauled it free for me. The clutch also stuck to the ( what's it stick to the flywheel )? also from not using it. but I bought it anyway about 2015 Still haven't fixed either just put new gear lube in it so far and wait for the engine to slow and tickle it, a little and finally will goin with out grinding.
Good story Bill. If it had a good set of tires, that's a pile of money right there !! I've never had this much water get in the Massey's even though they stay out side mostly. I've had several inches collect in the bottom of the rear end housing though and freeze to where the tractor was froze in place. Several times I'd have to literally rock and rock and rock little at a time until the bull gears would break free !! This H really surprised me with all that water. I ended up splitting it for new seals and input bearings and to remove the trans top and power wash all the grit and grime out. Then fresh oil and she's good to go and still going strong.
@@tractorman4461 wow so the bearings stood having water and low gear lube wow. So massey's are better on that water in tranny think . I'm thinking i have a 33 massey was sitting out side for s year well I finished a shed. I remember seeing water run out the axle seal when I toed it to the shed. Darn I forgot about that, I never drained the water out aand that was 4 or 5 yrs ago I gotta do that
@@janbill79 On the Massey's about the only way water will enter is condensation or through the shifting lever with a bad boot. These dang Farmalls have all those recessed bolts down from the top and they just sit there filled with rain water or snow and seep down around the bolt's and through the broken lock washers. Half of them are always broken. And every bolt backs out top to bottom packed with corrosion and muddy rust. I don't remember exactly but I think there are like 17 bolts sitting in those recesses holding water. Heck, some of my old Masseys still have the old 140 wt from back in the 50's !! Yes, you'd be doing yourself a bit of a favor draining the 33.
It sure was surprising to see that much in there !! My Massey's done let that much in at all. I got everything sealed good now, including the shifting boot. Thanks Allen for the input.
Ok Wendell I've seen you make about everything out of nothing. So i have an idea for you! MAKE A STATIC CHARGE MEATER TO PLACE ON HUMAN FOREHEAD SO WE KNOW IF THEY'RE OVERCHARGE, THAT WAY ONE KNOWS TO AVOID THEM. IT COULD BE AS SMALL AS A BANDADE TO COLOR CHANGE WITH THEIR MODE SWINGS. RED = RUN YELLOW = APPROACH WITH CAUTION GREEN = OK TO TALK WITH THEM.
Hahahahahaha....good one Tom. I can tell you the Missus would swing between yellow and red most times when I come in all greasy and dirty. LOL. Thanks for the afternoon smile my friend !!
Well Fram is good enough for an old engine that's puttering along at 1500 rpms, and most of the time less. The old motor has never been opened up. Treat yourself to the whole series on this old Farmall if you like. You might be surprised on some of it. Splitting to change seals and bearings. 12v conversion. Electrolysis on the gas tank. Pressure washing the tranny after removing the cover...etc. To make it easy, here it is: ruclips.net/video/5CR-uk17-Fk/видео.html Fwiw, I only run WIX on my Cummins and any of the V-8 rebuilds.
Don't know if this is new, but the old tractors were not sealed at the top, that is rainwater could get in around the gear stick if left in the rain. If the unit were to be operated full time it would evaporate the water out. We do not use these old tractors that much nowadays. These old tractors need to be sheltered.
I had it under a tarp, but I think rainwater and snow blew in under it and sat in the recesses of the tranny cover bolts. WhenI serviced it the rest of the way I found a number of the lock washers had broken and the holes/bolt threads were filled with rust and deteriorating bolt material....and all wet !! Here's the rest of the playlist on the H if you've not seen all of them: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG Thanks for stopping in for a visit today Larry.
Yes, those rubber boots are the likely suspect, but this guy is still fitted with the round metal shield that covers the whole shifter opening. I'm leaning towards the recesses in the transmission cover for the 13 or more bolts holding water. When I removed the bolts all the lock washers were broken in two except a couple. Thanks for the input Ed and thanks for watching.
This was the most I've ever seen in a rear end housing. I've had others freeze the bottom of the bull gears and not want to move. I'd have to gently rock back and forth and little by little they would give way. I was shocked to see what came out of this one.
Your water is coming down Thu your gear shifter between the bell shaped cover and the shifter rod when it rains.The only solution is to put your tractor in a shed You might try taking the shift knob off and put a piece of rubber from an intertube and clamp it on the shift rod and put a hose clamp to seal it.
I'm gonna have to check that closer Paul. I thought the little bell shape extended far enough over the opening to shed water and it sure didn't seem like there's any free motion between the shifter and the bell. But I will give it a serious look at tomorrow. Btw, it has gotten to live inside since I started the project over the winter. I've done the rubber and clamp on a ton of others...Allis's, Massey's and even a Ford or two. Thanks for the tip...I will inspect it.
@@tractorman4461 put some silicone or paint around it.also if your fill plug is on top of the housing, take it out and put sealer on the theads and thread it back in.Tractors leak in rain water there as well .if that doesn't cure it,then paint all the top plate bolts till the paint runs down in all the cavities
Yes, a lot of newer equipment have common transmission and hydraulic fluids...it wouldn't fly at all on those guys. Then lets not even talk about the hydrostatic drives.... Thanks Drew for stopping in and thank you for taking the time to comment sir.
@@tractorman4461 No doubt, I picked up a hydrostatic Kubota B1550 that had water contaminated hyd fluid and it must have froze the filter up and the pressure imploded the insides of the spin on filter. Luckily it was a genuine Kubota HP filter and didn’t send pieces through the system. Pretty cool, I have heard of oil filters doing that with guys running too thick of a oil in cold temps, but never seen a hyd system do it. Thanks for the video sir!
Well I solve the issue in the next video....but it involves a chain fall and a pressure washer. LOL. But I'm sure the heat method would've been a lot easier though. But I guarantee I got as much out of it as can physically be gotten out...plus I got to see the condition of all the internals.
@@tractorman4461 Did you notice how little clearance there is between the Bull Gears and the bottom of the Trans housing. If the inner axle bearing ever starts making noise and the tractor seems to shudder stop right there. If that inner bearing fails and comes apart It will jam debris between the bull gear and trans housing and crack the housing. Its common to see H & M's with the housing brazed or welded. The inner and outer axle bearings are the same size. However the inner bearing has a greater number of ball bearings.
It's really unfortunate that there are those that pay no attention to whats written in the descriptions or listen to what's spoken in the videos before making an ill-informed comment. If you paid any attention to this video or ANY in the series of me working through this tractor from stem to stern you would realize this is one of the first steps of getting this old tractor back in shape after sitting in a corner of a shed for nearly 20 years and another 8 years after I brought it home. I don't have the luxury of the time to make tractors pretty but I make them mechanically sound and ready to work. Btw, if you are interested, here's the playlist on the H: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG Another point I'd like to make is in 60 plus years of farming my dad never washed a single piece of equipment or any of the tractors. At this point in my life I am too busy to make trailer queens and a little dirt on the outside means nothing. They are only 'original' once and all I have are 'originals'.
Wow, I just bought an M from a older gentleman. They bought it in 1950. I best check those bottom plugs for water. I changed the oil and filter already. Thank you so much for this video. Iowa is watching
I think the water leaked in through the transmission covers recessed bolts. I had a number of broken lock washers and with it sitting outside, even under a tarp, I think blowing rain, snow and ice rested in those and went right on into the housing. There's a whole series on servicing this H which most things are just like most M's, just smaller. Try this one if you like: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG
Unbelievable how much water sips thru. I always enjoy your videos working on vintage equipment.
I sure don't know either Ramon. When its just a pint or so it can be attributed to internal condensation but this quantity has to have seeped in somewhere I've not yet found. The shifter boot is a metal dome that shields the whole area. The transmission housing cover has recessed bolts heads and most of the lock washers were cracked into two halves....don't know if that's it or not.
If u work a ih and don't change oil a keep adding oil it can condensate lots of water. If it's kept inside there's no leakage.
Thank you. I'll be checking all the lubricants on my 46' Farmall H soon. Appreciate the video.
I was surprised to see the quantity of water in this thing !! I have a '46 M with the Meili Blumberg hydraulic grader under it. Bad motor though.
Good evening Sir, you did several great modifications Sir ! The condensation come inside the rear differential from the vent hole and the same differential do not heat high enough the oil to evaporate that humidity trough of vent cap even during the summer. So when the rear was starting to act frozen on the farm we were heating the rear differential and then drain the oil to put new one. Now I never see so much water for sure, usually it is only 1-2 cup of water,,, but not a full gallon !!! Yes in deed a flush is required for sure ! It is nice to see your AC LINCOLN BUZZ BOX SIR ! Keep up what ever you are doing Sir and I will follow you ! Great engine start ! Great video from a great man ! Cheers !!!
I think all this water entered through the top of the housing around all the assembly bolts. They are each fitted into recesses that can fill with water and seep around the threads and all but two of the bolts had broken lock washers. So I had like 13 miniature funnels holding water every time it rained. But I'm just guessing. That Lincoln is one of the old copper wound welders. Its good and heavy but it has a rotted power cord and was just given to me recently. I'm going to fix the cord and send it down to my son's house so he can do repairs down there too.
Amazing the amount of water in there!
Yeah, I'm still puzzled by the quantity....but I'm working on it. Crazy amount of H20 in there.
@@tractorman4461 oil filter for 1948 farmall H tractor2322²2q won
Is there anything you can't fix? I never worry about how you fix things because you are the consummate professional mechanic. Loved this video and learned something as well...
Now Raymond, don't give me quite so much credit....I might have to buy a whole new set of hats just to fit my big head !! I am glad to see you enjoyed the video. There are several more in the series for this old H. Thank you my friend for the awesome comment by the way !! (-:
Thanks brother. Rebuilding one through my refurbishing company now and videos like this help me understand what I cannot through text or by myself.
Appreciate it.
Good luck with the refurbishing project. These old machines are pretty forgivable. Treat them halfway decently and they run almost forever !
Love the video I picked up an old farmal h couple weeks ago had to replace a lot on it so far. These tractors are basically built on common sense but there's one thing that stumps me. My gear shift moves left and right like it's in neutral but when u let off the clutch it's in 1st gear I can't find reverse gear and the gear shift goes forward so far it touches the plate that the starter button is on. I just done a oil and filter and gasket change doing the rear end next because the tractor pops loud when moving it. I checked the rear end fluid out of the level port u showed and it was empty at that point. So definitely checking to see how much of what I got in it it's been sitting for close to 30 years I surprisingly got it running tho. So 🎉😂🎉 makes me feel better I didn't buy half a army tank. Seriously it rolled back on my foot and I tell ya what. 😮 Oww
Take a look at this video and maybe you'll see something interesting: ruclips.net/video/g9IXCCyYUug/видео.html. I have a complete playlist doing all sorts of stuff to an H right here: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG You may be able to solve the issue by removing the pin on the shifter to remove it. You may have a worn shifting fork that's slipped out of the slot for 1st and 2nd gear.
I've got a 1956 Farmall 400 with a F.E.L. I picked up at an auction a few year's ago. I needed to to a little excavating on my property so after I was done I parked it for a year or so. It sat in the Minnesota rain and snow. I decided to take off the seat and replace the rusted out battery box and I found a hole the size of a half dollar in the cover plate! I took off the cover plate to weld er up and found a small lake in there!
Now that ain't a good scenario at all !! Good thing you caught it when you did. That 400 is more than an M on steriods. I have a video in the editing line right now on my brothers '56 400 LP. Its got the torque amplifier and oversized jugs. He took it down to the last nut and bolt about ten years ago and did a total rebuild. Not a DuPont restoration....virtually every bearing and seal as well as engine internals down to the valve springs and keepers. New rubber and fancy paint now, but he still gets it out there and makes it earn its keep !! No loader though....
@@tractorman4461 I'll be looking out for that video! Mine came from a small feeder calf operation. The old fella used it to clean his cow yard and it had more cow muck on it than a manure spreader!
I have the Torque Amplifier but no belt drive gear box. It has been converted from the two point hitch to a 3 point. The old fella found several part's after the auction and gave them to me including the 2 point and a new set of brake discs. It needed them too! Wore down to the steel's!
Several other part's also along with a manual ( reproduction from Steiner Tractor Parts) .
My grandfather was a Johnny Popper man ( had an A and a B) and a Ford 8n. No one used Farmalls on my mother's side of the family. Lots of Allis men and a couple of COOP guy's. My father's family farmed in North Dakota ( Rolla area) and only had one tractor. A Cletrac but I don't remember what year.( could have been a model 35) They did have several homemade "trucktors" though.
I'll be watching and have a great and productive summer!
That's what my Harley transmission oil looked like! :) HAVE A GREAT GREAT DAY MY FRIEND.
Oh NooOOOoooo Dave, THAT can't be good. I had that happen on a dirt bike one time, but I ran it off in a deep water hole to get it in there. Thanks for stopping in.
@@tractorman4461 Of course, I was just kidding :)
@@davescorneroftheworld1147 Aw man...you got me good on that one Dave. LOL
Very glad you’re doing a series on this H model. I just picked one up and am about to start working on getting it going. Thanks for another great video!
Aw shoot !! This comment snuck by me. Yes, I know you are terrorizing the neighborhood already with the cool old H !!
Let’s just say they’re familiar with the sound and sight of it!
Exactly what I needed to see. I’ve got a super m that I want to get going and this will help greatly
There is actually a whole playlist on this H. Twelve volt conversion, electrlyosis on the gas tank, coating the tank, power washing the final drive...transmission seals and input bearing...etc. Here's the playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG. Enjoy !!
I like your approach and message. Real useful messages.
Thank you William. I appreciate the nice words. Did you by chance see the playlist on the H ? I split it for seals and bearings and serviced the transmission rear end the right way. Here it is in case you've an interest. ruclips.net/video/f0NkvNo5QNc/видео.html 12 volt conversion as well.
Excellent video! I would love to see more with this type of content. Thanks for sharing your knowledge !
Thank you Johnny V for the kind comment. Have you by chance found this playlist on this particular H ? ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG It's not complete yet because its still being worked on. There are also some 'first start' tractor videos in my playlists as well. In those, I kinda go through the basics of troubleshooting those that have been sitting a while. ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1uWqQ2hDCRVubPve9JlLzhw Feel free to let me know what you think.
Hi Wendell! Wow! That’s some nasty stuff that came out of the transmission! So glad you are going to trade that water for some real transmission oil! I think you’ll find it will work much better. LOL. Thanks for sharing!
Yes, I've heard that the lubricating qualities of oils are much better that those of water. LOL. Yes, it was pretty nasty but wait until you see how that is taken care of.
Great video! Glad I happened across your channel. Good points!
Awesome Bill, I am glad you stopped by. I have a whole playlist on this particular H: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG That'll help you find them easier if you decide to watch more.
Interesting video, messy too with all that gunk draining out. All the water that seeped in made for an interesting seal repair too.
Well, when the water drained out and the stick was stuck in and all the muck came out with the stick, it made it necessary to thoroughly power wash the insides. I couldn't just put seals in and fresh 80-90. So the project stretches on a bit further. Btw, your comment got sent to the spam folder with about 50 others from this and other videos.
Thank you, I found this very informative
Thank you. Have you by chance found the whole playlist of repairs/maintenance/12v conversion on this tractor..? If not and its something you may like, here it is: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG There may be other stuff in the playlist, but the whole set of H upgrades are here.
44 thanks never knew this stuff
God Bless All
PaK
It was a real surprise to find that much water and no oil in there. But the tip off was how loud the gears sounded on the little 'drive around' the woodpile the other day.
I just noticed this video.
That tractor sat outside. I've run across rear ends nearly full of water.
The lower pitcock was also used when a tractor burned distillate we would drain the oil level to the lower level then add a quart.
The distillate thinned the oil.
Thank you Wendell.
This is the most I've seen in all the years I've been around tractors...and that's all my life. We ran Massey Harris tractors though and they all lived under roof. This was stored 20 years under roof before I got it, but it sat out for close to 10 after I got it. Tarped, but mostly only the motor. Not running Farmalls, I recently learned the reason for the weird oil level petcocks. And you confirmed it.
Thanks Bryce for the cool comment. Btw, I have had my outside Masseys get enough water in to raise the 140 wt off the bottom to freeze the bull gears in place. Now when its near zero outside, its FUN to get them broke loose. At least that only happened twice. Live and learn huh.
@Tractorman44 Must be a Farmall thing.
Dad's sat outside. Every spring we drained m8lky fluid out of the rear-end.
I'm in process of putting newer bearings in my M pulley assembly, and rebuilding my magneto. It's been in my slightly older brother's shed for a decade.
@@brycewiborg8095 I think it IS a Farmall thing. Those trans-housing bolt holes go all the way through the casting flange and I think water seeps around the threads of the 13 or 14 cover bolts. Most of mine had broken lock washers as well. I need a new seal in the rear pto on the H, but the belt pulley seems fine. When I had the tranny top cover off, I serviced the belt pulley. Is this a purchase from you slightly older brother or just getting it going for him....?
Side note, I might be in the market for an M motor if the M-Meile Blumberg grader tractor is going to take a total rebuild.
@Tractorman44 Actually I bought th3 M in rough shape from 2 Batchelor brothers whovhad bought it new.
Since my slightly older brother has acreage it resides with him.We started it several years ago, but the mag is weak.
45 model with newer tin credited to a friend who was scrapping 3 M back in the 80s.
I probably won't part with it because my brothers, and I enjoy reliving our youth.
@@brycewiborg8095 Good deal with the Slightly Older Brother having a bit of property !! I agree with reliving our youth. I try it daily....and I hope it shows in my videos. LOL My Much Older Brother is 83 and just finished a two stage clutch in his 301 JD. I stopped by and held the flywheel while he got a couple bolts started. I help him off and on when he needs it, but for the most part he wants to do it all !! That's the way to be. Never give up. He's got Masseys, JD's and Farmalls. Those old bachelor brother farmer types are slowly disappearing. I'm glad you got the one owner M.
Thankyou for this video. Very informative and well done.
Thanks Dan for the kind comment !! There is a whole playlist of the things I'm going through on this tractor. If you like, here it is: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG There should be a 12v conversion, adding a voltmeter instead of an ammeter, powerwashing the inside of the transmission....to name a few.
hi there really good video . think i may need to check the old JD . I fill the top but never the bottom check for condsate . john
I do that from time to time on the daily drivers, but this one sat outside for many years before it came into the shop. My bad. Thanks John for watching.
For oil filters, I usually buy Wix filters, which come with the oil ring type seal. For the '40 H, it took the longer filter. Some of the earlier H's had the long filters while the later H's had the short filter. My '40 H needs the long filter, but someone at one point, put in a short filter. So, now it has the correct oil filter in it. I usually go down a few miles to Pine Valley Equipment, south of Potosi, Missouri, and buy the filters there.
I haven't been down there for 10 or 12 years ! My older brother goes there frequently, but he's been into Internationals for a long time.
@@tractorman4461 They carry parts for all makes of tractors, I believe.
Damn what a great teacher and so much information!
Thanks Danny for watching and you get the Gold Star for the best comment of the day !! LOL Hey, if you are liking this video, I ended up doing a TON of work to this old Farmall, so I made a playlist of videos on it if you are interested. Twelve volt conversion. Adding a voltmeter and removing the ammeter....spltting the tractor in half and a bit more. Here it is: ruclips.net/video/f0NkvNo5QNc/видео.html
A lot of older mechanics blame the recessed bolts on the transmission top cover for the amount of water that gets in the transmission on these tractors. I'm not sure if that is true but I went ahead and took each bolt out and put some silicone sealer on each one just on case. The petcocks for checking the oil were also used to drain off kerosene on the kerosene engines. My '40 is a kerosene engine and the owners manual tells you to drain the kerosene off the oil everyday after the engine has cooled. You open the bottom petcock and drain off a quart of kerosene and then close it. Open the top petcock and refill with fresh oil. We ran our on straight gas when I was growing up so I never saw Dad drain it. I know a lot of people freak out when they see stuff like supporting the tractor like that. If they saw what we had to do on the farm to keep things going, they would have a heart attack!! 🤣🤣🤣Can't wait for the splitting video! 👍👍👍
See there...you being an old Farmall guy you just taught me something. I didn't know about the bleeding off the kerosene from the oil pan. I tell ya though, my strong suspicion is right there with you on the recessed bolts on the transmission cover. I think just about every one of the lock washers were broken into two pieces. With standing water in those recesses, I can see how that could possibly have been the multiple sources of entry. Splitting video coming soon !! Thanks for the input on the petcocks....so cool.
Sunex makes 8 point sockets for square nuts and they also make pipe plug sockets both male and female. Those are on my list for future tool purchases. Hope this helps you for future projects.
That’s good to know John. Thanks for the input. I’m just used to grabbing a twelve point and go. Sockets for the pipe plug is news to me too. I learn a lot from viewers !!
You, Sir, are a "Jedi-Level Tractor-Man."
Good Morning W.C. Now, that might be stretching things a bit....but it sure got a good chuckle out of me !! LOL
@@tractorman4461 I JUST went out to my "New To Me" IH240 and learned that I have a PTO shut off rod, behind the drivers seat, off to the passenger side....
It seems someone cut it off, once upon a time. I just painted it white with a paint pen. It's nice to be able to drive with my BrushHog NOT in Active Mode! God Bless! You might think these vids are something no one will watch, but there's a lot of younger guys and gals just starting out. Farming is cool now a days. People can't afford Brand New, or want to go Vintage. My "Linda" rocks. And now, she has a cut off switch thanks to your video. I hope you have as good a day as I'm having. Again, God Bless you and yours!
@@w.c.6678 Well, I tell ya W.C., nothing makes my day like that comment I just received from you !! Guys like me that have been around this old stuff since it was new sometimes assume everyone knows what's obvious to us. Its good to be reminded that sometimes the basics of machinery are really important too !!
Turned out I had a great day too. I got a raggedy looking red cedar log, got to fire up the old Case backhoe, hauled it home in the old Ford truck and unloaded it with the Kubota !! Only shed a little blood in the process. LOL, not related though. There WILL be a video too !! LOL
He’s like the Bob Ross of tractors
Hahahaha....don't ask me to paint on on a canvas though...LOL. In case you'd like to see the whole playlist on this H, here it is: ruclips.net/video/f0NkvNo5QNc/видео.html. There might be something else thrown in there too, I don't remember for sure. Thanks Andrew for the smile today.
The belly pump gears are still turning when the clutch is released no matter the position of the control lever. Its simply the fluid is bypassing inside the unit. the lever is the Hyd control valve It restricts the bypass and fills a remote cyl. There are two outlets on one side and one on the other . the front two on each side are for the front cultivators. The rear one is for the rear cultivator. Its a delayed lift so the rears remain in the ground to the end of the row. You most likely will need to drop the belly pump and replace the seal on the drive. the belly pump isnt live hyd. It quits working when the clutch is depressed.
I was wondering how that all worked. I knew the pump drive stayed engaged, but didn't even think about the lever being just a control valve. That's interesting about the delay in the rear port...and that really makes sense. Btw, I never did make it back to the old timers to get the cultivators that went with it. Even though I'll never use them, it'd be good to have them for the next guy. What happened is I bought the tractor/ loaded it and brought it home. I ran into him in town a few weeks later and he asked why I didn't take the cultivators...I told him I didn't know they were in the deal too. LOL. Good thing he only lives less than two miles from here. I need to stop by one of these days.
I’m going to change mine soon I know there’s water inside this winter when it got extremely cold out you could tell. Are you planning on doing a seal replacement video on those shafts. From what I hear is if there out side in the weather eventually the water comes through on the top of the transmission where all the bolts are at.
I'm strongly suspecting that the recessed holes are the fault because most of the lockwashers were broken in half. Yes, I've done a video on the seal replacement as well as the transmission input shaft bearing replacement. The belly pump's shaft was double sealed by the way. Thanks for the comment Chris.
I recently read a report on the use of spring type lock washers and the mechanical engineer who authored the report found that lock washers of that type don't work as intended. He suggested that they not be used and liquid Loctite or it's equivalent be used instead.
One of the reasons spring type lock washers have been used for decade's is that they are easy to put on where liquid thread locker is kind of messy to apply especially during the assembly of machinery.
Apparently the only lock washers that worked as designed are the one's that have teeth on them. They look like a flat washer but have teeth on both surfaces. You abutt the teeth together and when the fastener is tighten down the teeth mesh and lock in place. They are called Nord- Lock washers.
I quit using spring type lock washers and only use thread locking liquid now.
As thread locker wasn't available when your tractor was manufactured spring type lock washers were all they had.
@@garyronan5568 That's interesting. I know over the years a great percentage of old equipment that comes apart has broken lock washers. In this case it was not a good scenario for the final drive. I use the Nord-lock washers a lot on smaller bolts but I didn't know what their name was. Thanks for the input Gary.
That's a great idea with the diesel fuel! Jacking up stuff always makes me break a sweat! I'm still nervous removing loaded tires lol the case needs the tires changed out and I've got a good set on my parts machine but they're loaded and I don't want to get squished lol my buddy Rick says he will help me out eventually, potentially a video mey get done if we survive 😜
Hahahahaha.....Andrew, you'll do just fine. I started changing the rear wheels around backwards when I was about 12 years old. Our cultivating tractor was a '41 Massey Harris 101 Junior with 36'' rears. We never ran fluid in those tires so they were easy for me to switch around for stretching over the rows. We had an overhead chain fall in the tool shed for this purpose as well as many other maintenance projects. Keep your eyes peeled for a cheap chain fall....they are priceless when working on these old gals.
@@tractorman4461 I'll have to do that! Any sorta hoist would be excellent around here lol
@@ButlerOutdoorsCanada I bought two old..old..old chain falls for six bucks at a farm auction a few years back. Both work perfectly after a little oil.
@@tractorman4461 I'll have to ask my old buddy in Meaford Ontario if he's got one kicking around in his barns lol great idea!
Awsome.spot on.safety first always.seems tractors setting out are worse at getting water in trans an diffs and a few other areas.dozers an other equipment not quite so much.but plugs an exhaust gas caps ect just draw water.winter months will get ya inside building in time to.trans an diffs most neglected on any even new stuff.just takes time for tlc to get more years out of equipment.ih tractors an some others is a small plug before distributor shaft 90 or 140 or if won't hold a semi fluid grease will work if need.the growl when your running equipment is hello help me call.Thank You Sir.regular maintenance is cheap insurance.
I think this Farmall is the worst I've ever seen. I've had enough in the crank case of some of the Masseys to where they froze the bull gears in place and it took a lot of rocking back and forth to break loose. I'm surprised this one didn't freeze and break the rear end housing. I try to keep all the importand points covered, but apparently not good enough on this one !! Thanks Michael for the additional input on these old machines.
"Woooo I got to get another bucket" cracked me up lmao
Hahahaha…. Sure surprised the devil outta me too. LOL. I have the whole series I a playlist up top to make it easier for guys to find them in one place. Thanks for watching and commenting. Editing a Farmall 400 video right this minute too !!
It's just five bolts and a gasket/silicone, but when I drained four or five gallons of water from a customer's H, I pulled the PTO shaft out to inspect and clean the gear case interior. I was quite surprised how clean it was in there.
That's cool to see one so clean like you had from that customer. This one had thick caked sludge along side the bull gears. Power washing was the best solution in this case. I pulled a JD A apart one time and found a broken PTO shaft had been laying at an angle across the bottom and had been being ground by the edge of one of the bull gears to where a groove was worn in the broken shaft all the way around it. If it would have lodged under the gear, it would have busted either the gear or the final drive case...one or the other. Got lucky on that one, but it came to me on a trade.
New to your Channel Great Video thanks
Great !! Thanks for watching Tony. Btw, that was my Dad's name. LOL There's a whole playlist on the H getting a bit of service. Here it is is you'd like to see them: ruclips.net/video/f0NkvNo5QNc/видео.html
There was some nasty stuff in there....bin a few years since the last dif maintenance.....when you get them seals in there, it should be good for another 50 years or so.....CHEERS
Well by golly I hope so Gator. This thing takes 26 quarts of fluid in the final drive. The seals are original and are leather from the '40's.
Well, that's interesting. As I recall, the old Internationals used a seasonal grade 10, 20 or 30 weight oil in the trans and rear end with an IH additive product. As time went on, a lot of people assumed heavier gear oil would be an appropriate replacement. Hy-Tran is the recommended replacement, but I use Rotella because it is half the price and about one hundred times better than the original oils.
So, I guess that the water displaced the oil in the rear end forward, and it all leaked out those bad seals, just leaving the water trapped in the lowest point at the rear. I might just crack the drain on my 300 tomorrow. LOL
Its a good idea to check them at least once a year to be safe. This is the worst one I've dealt with so far. We always ran 140 in the Massey Harris transmissions/final drives but those were all heavy work tractors. I see no need for that thick of lube to go into these old guys that are never going to work crazy hard any longer. I don't know what they recommend, but I will check it out for sure. About the missing oil. I strongly suspect the sump was empty when I got if from the original owner. He said it'd been parked for 20 years inside the barn I extracted it from. If it leaked our here being displaced by the water, I would have a huge oil slick under it where it sat. So I think it was empty and this was leakage from rain and snow into the housing in the 6 to 8 years it sat here outside. Thanks William for the oil input.
John Deere makes A grease called Corn Head grease. It is semi-solid at room temperature but liqufies at higher temperatures I.E. when gear trains are running.
I wonder how it would work in a tractor differential with leaky seals? It might save a man the trouble of replacing those seals.
I also wonder about how it would act in cold climates. I live in Minnesota and it might be a problem in January!
@@garyronan5568 Boy o boy, I don't know. But if I was to try it, it would be on a tractor that's a spare and not a daily user just in case. That's an interesting concept though about the Corn Head grease. Another thing I never heard of. Heck, 140 wt in some of the smaller tractors makes 'em grunt to get moving when it hits below zero !! Mine no longer work, so 80-90 is good for them anytime they get a final drive fluid change. Some of the old dogs are still running 140 though.
Ya. It would be an interesting experiment but I'd rather try it on someone else's tractor first!.
I follow the Weekend Freedom Machines website. They specialize in John Deere garden tractors and other John Deere equipment and several people have put Corn Head grease in the auger drive gear box on their snow blowers apparently without any problems. I have a John Deere snow blower I have for a backup machine but it still has 80-90W ( if I recall) it's old but still work's well so I would hate to blow up the gear box if it didn't work out!
@@garyronan5568 Hahaha...yes, that would be a bad day for sure. There's always improvements made in the lubrication industry. So much different that back in the day. Pretty much all we had was 30wt non-detergent for engines and 140 for trannys/final drives. Of course we didn't have the fancy fords or fergusons with the three point stuff...
Wow, that's a lot of water,.. all from condensation, or some rain leaking in too?
I'm glad you caught that before too much driving.
Soon as I let out the clutch, I knew the sound of the gears wasn't right. That's why there was just ONE trip around the woodpile. LOL. Usually condensation is a pint at most. This quantity has got to be rain water infiltration. I'm suspecting the transmission cover mounting bolts. There's about 14 or more and most of them had broken lock washers. And the silly bolts are recessed in the casting so the bolt heads are flush with the top so water sits in those mini-reservoirs. Masseys have the bolt heads above the flat surface of the top.
@@tractorman4461 Ooooo, not too smart of an idea to use recessed bolts on the transmission cover. There's the 'inlet' for sure!
You caught it, so no more damage from this point on!
Thank You
Well David, you're welcome. It had to be done and I hoped the video would help others with theirs.
What weight gear oil did u use in this video again ? Was it gear oil or a form of transmission fluid
In this video it was just diesel fuel to slosh and flush as much as I could get out. Eventually I used 80-90 wt once the trans/final drive was pressure washed with the trans cover removed. There is a whole series of videos on this tractor in the playlists up above. But this one is the power wash: ruclips.net/video/g9IXCCyYUug/видео.html
Wendell, i thought you took better care of your equipment!😹😹😹🤣😃🤣😃🤣😃
Hot doggies, you busted me !! LOL.
WANT TO BUY YOU A CUP OF COFFEE ☕️ REALLY HELPFUL INFO FOR NEW TRACTOR GUY
That's a very kind thing to offer. I do drink it black....unless its really BAD coffee. Then I still drink it black. Thanks John, for the smile this evening !!
Cant believe how much water there was. Is that all from condensation? Enjoyed the video as always.
I've decided it just can't be only from condensation. It has to have leaked in around the multiple recessed transmission cover mounting bolt holes. Most all the 7/16 lock washers were broken in two pieces and that could possibly have been the entry point. I'm still thinking it through Bob. I don't think it came in the shifter boot. It's a metal dome and not a rubber boot.
When all that water poured out of the rear I was just thinking "0h no." After that sludge I would have flushed it too.
Hahaha...yeah, I was surprised as can be. It really needed some serious attention in there.
What kinda damage will that h2o do to the inerds? Not much with lack of air?
Naw....no damage to speak of. Just a little superficial rust. That's coming up in a follow up when the top cover comes off. Thanks Mike for the visit buddy.
Thanks 44!
that's about how much water that typically comes out of an H when you buy a used
one, I bought a 2 owner 1941farmall h , the transmission bearings where not quiet.
I checked it before i bought it, in front of the owner , and when all that water came out
he acted surprised, because he stated he new the previous owner & neither of the 2 owners
ever left it out side. they just didn't use it in the fields so the moisture that condenses
never gets worked I told him / now with water being in there so long, lots of bearings are
rusty and shot. He still wanted $1350 because it had new rear tires and tubes. But hauled it free
for me. The clutch also stuck to the ( what's it stick to the flywheel )? also from not using it.
but I bought it anyway about 2015 Still haven't fixed either just put new gear lube in it so far
and wait for the engine to slow and tickle it, a little and finally will goin with out grinding.
Good story Bill. If it had a good set of tires, that's a pile of money right there !! I've never had this much water get in the Massey's even though they stay out side mostly. I've had several inches collect in the bottom of the rear end housing though and freeze to where the tractor was froze in place. Several times I'd have to literally rock and rock and rock little at a time until the bull gears would break free !! This H really surprised me with all that water. I ended up splitting it for new seals and input bearings and to remove the trans top and power wash all the grit and grime out. Then fresh oil and she's good to go and still going strong.
@@tractorman4461 wow so the bearings stood having water and low gear lube wow.
So massey's are better on that water in tranny think . I'm thinking i have a 33 massey was sitting out side for s year well I finished a shed. I remember seeing water run out the axle seal when I toed it to the shed. Darn I forgot about that, I never drained the water out aand that was 4 or 5 yrs ago I gotta do that
@@janbill79 On the Massey's about the only way water will enter is condensation or through the shifting lever with a bad boot. These dang Farmalls have all those recessed bolts down from the top and they just sit there filled with rain water or snow and seep down around the bolt's and through the broken lock washers. Half of them are always broken. And every bolt backs out top to bottom packed with corrosion and muddy rust. I don't remember exactly but I think there are like 17 bolts sitting in those recesses holding water. Heck, some of my old Masseys still have the old 140 wt from back in the 50's !! Yes, you'd be doing yourself a bit of a favor draining the 33.
I think your water was rain water that ran down your gear shifter in to the tranny. Happened to mine. Nice video thanks
It sure was surprising to see that much in there !! My Massey's done let that much in at all. I got everything sealed good now, including the shifting boot. Thanks Allen for the input.
Ok Wendell I've seen you make about everything out of nothing. So i have an idea for you! MAKE A STATIC CHARGE MEATER TO PLACE ON HUMAN FOREHEAD SO WE KNOW IF THEY'RE OVERCHARGE, THAT WAY ONE KNOWS TO AVOID THEM.
IT COULD BE AS SMALL AS A BANDADE TO COLOR CHANGE WITH THEIR MODE SWINGS.
RED = RUN
YELLOW = APPROACH WITH CAUTION
GREEN = OK TO TALK WITH THEM.
Hahahahahaha....good one Tom. I can tell you the Missus would swing between yellow and red most times when I come in all greasy and dirty. LOL. Thanks for the afternoon smile my friend !!
I haven't seen that much water since I was in the Navy. Man talk about waterlogged.
I think she's flooded mate....!! Wait, wrong kind of 'flood'. LOL
Maybe she thinks she's a submarine!
@@garyronan5568 Hahahaha...good one.
I can only imagine where this video went. After he said he put a fram oil filter in it I am out lmao
Well Fram is good enough for an old engine that's puttering along at 1500 rpms, and most of the time less. The old motor has never been opened up. Treat yourself to the whole series on this old Farmall if you like. You might be surprised on some of it. Splitting to change seals and bearings. 12v conversion. Electrolysis on the gas tank. Pressure washing the tranny after removing the cover...etc. To make it easy, here it is: ruclips.net/video/5CR-uk17-Fk/видео.html Fwiw, I only run WIX on my Cummins and any of the V-8 rebuilds.
Don't know if this is new, but the old tractors were not sealed at the top, that is rainwater could get in around the gear stick if left in the rain. If the unit were to be operated full time it would evaporate the water out. We do not use these old tractors that much nowadays. These old tractors need to be sheltered.
I had it under a tarp, but I think rainwater and snow blew in under it and sat in the recesses of the tranny cover bolts. WhenI serviced it the rest of the way I found a number of the lock washers had broken and the holes/bolt threads were filled with rust and deteriorating bolt material....and all wet !! Here's the rest of the playlist on the H if you've not seen all of them: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG Thanks for stopping in for a visit today Larry.
The boot on the shift tower is a prime suspect for water intrusion, especially if the boot is rubber that is deteriorated.
Yes, those rubber boots are the likely suspect, but this guy is still fitted with the round metal shield that covers the whole shifter opening. I'm leaning towards the recesses in the transmission cover for the 13 or more bolts holding water. When I removed the bolts all the lock washers were broken in two except a couple. Thanks for the input Ed and thanks for watching.
Hot and cold condensation in rear housing makes oil milky. I seen so much if not changed will freeze and tractor won't move.
This was the most I've ever seen in a rear end housing. I've had others freeze the bottom of the bull gears and not want to move. I'd have to gently rock back and forth and little by little they would give way. I was shocked to see what came out of this one.
Ive done that with my truck before tp find what was squeaking in the back lol.
Yeah that's not good. Hope you got the squeaking issue solved with no damage !! Thanks for the comment Mr Ben.
Your water is coming down Thu your gear shifter between the bell shaped cover and the shifter rod when it rains.The only solution is to put your tractor in a shed
You might try taking the shift knob off and put a piece of rubber from an intertube and clamp it on the shift rod and put a hose clamp to seal it.
I'm gonna have to check that closer Paul. I thought the little bell shape extended far enough over the opening to shed water and it sure didn't seem like there's any free motion between the shifter and the bell. But I will give it a serious look at tomorrow. Btw, it has gotten to live inside since I started the project over the winter. I've done the rubber and clamp on a ton of others...Allis's, Massey's and even a Ford or two. Thanks for the tip...I will inspect it.
@@tractorman4461 it leaks between the rod and the bell over time
@@tractorman4461 put some silicone or paint around it.also if your fill plug is on top of the housing, take it out and put sealer on the theads and thread it back in.Tractors leak in rain water there as well .if that doesn't cure it,then paint all the top plate bolts till the paint runs down in all the cavities
@@paulsmith5339 good deal. All good tips. I did use pipe dope on the fill plug already. But I’ll follow up with the rest. Thanks again fir the tips.
Good old iron. This new junk would never hold up to that much water.
Yes, a lot of newer equipment have common transmission and hydraulic fluids...it wouldn't fly at all on those guys. Then lets not even talk about the hydrostatic drives.... Thanks Drew for stopping in and thank you for taking the time to comment sir.
@@tractorman4461 No doubt, I picked up a hydrostatic Kubota B1550 that had water contaminated hyd fluid and it must have froze the filter up and the pressure imploded the insides of the spin on filter. Luckily it was a genuine Kubota HP filter and didn’t send pieces through the system. Pretty cool, I have heard of oil filters doing that with guys running too thick of a oil in cold temps, but never seen a hyd system do it. Thanks for the video sir!
Park it with the front a foot higher than the rear. build a fire or use a torch and heat the trans housing. That will make that tar run out the back.
Well I solve the issue in the next video....but it involves a chain fall and a pressure washer. LOL. But I'm sure the heat method would've been a lot easier though. But I guarantee I got as much out of it as can physically be gotten out...plus I got to see the condition of all the internals.
@@tractorman4461 Did you notice how little clearance there is between the Bull Gears and the bottom of the Trans housing. If the inner axle bearing ever starts making noise and the tractor seems to shudder stop right there. If that inner bearing fails and comes apart It will jam debris between the bull gear and trans housing and crack the housing. Its common to see H & M's with the housing brazed or welded. The inner and outer axle bearings are the same size. However the inner bearing has a greater number of ball bearings.
take better care of it. the tractor is filthy. why treat them this way.?. boggles the mind.thumbs down.
It's really unfortunate that there are those that pay no attention to whats written in the descriptions or listen to what's spoken in the videos before making an ill-informed comment. If you paid any attention to this video or ANY in the series of me working through this tractor from stem to stern you would realize this is one of the first steps of getting this old tractor back in shape after sitting in a corner of a shed for nearly 20 years and another 8 years after I brought it home. I don't have the luxury of the time to make tractors pretty but I make them mechanically sound and ready to work. Btw, if you are interested, here's the playlist on the H: ruclips.net/p/PLk72G9DTzZ1u4HTcEVKC3ehyV_UsFYaAG Another point I'd like to make is in 60 plus years of farming my dad never washed a single piece of equipment or any of the tractors. At this point in my life I am too busy to make trailer queens and a little dirt on the outside means nothing. They are only 'original' once and all I have are 'originals'.