This is excellent. Thank you for not having a long intro with your song, your life motto, your kids and pets and chit chat about what you've been going through the last 24 hours before this video was made! All I need are the "how to's." And you delivered!
Be advised all DIYers some bulk yards have more than one grade of DG: the lower cost DG has more pebbles and is coarser. Suitable for a driveway, not best for cosmetics. For walkways and best looks ask for screened DG which is finer and compacts better and is more stable. Looks better.
Yes that should not be a problem in drier climates. For wetter climates, I would recommend road or paver base or some kind of compactable gravel that will provide better drainage than DG.
Followed this video 2 years ago for my first DG install at my house- came back for a refresher because the first install was so successful I’m now doing two more areas including a nice sitting area under a giant sycamore with a bench swing. First was a 4 cu.yd install, this one is 9! Thanks so much
@@RootedTheory just finished yesterday and the wife couldn’t believe the transformation when she came outside. Had my 2yo boy out there helping, shoveling and of course playing with just dirtbike and monster truck toys on the piles
After watching many tutorials, this is one of the best..well explained ones, wish all were explained and presented like this one… Keep up the work , you deserve more views!!! And I’m pretty sure the view counts are already getting better!!
I had been trying to figure out a way to work on my front/backyard, and this is ideal!! I saw it on a friend's yard and then came straight to youtube (for the details). Thanks for a simple straight forward explanation! 👍
Thank you so much for making this tutorial! Now I know I'd rather save the money to have someone install our project for us so it looks just right:) This video is terrific and really, really helpful. Thank you!
I've watched thousands of landscaping 'how-to' videos lately (o.k - major exaggeration lol) and so happy that I just found yours. I am a newbie to working in the yard in my house in Los Angeles and I find your vids very helpful. I ripped out the turf in my small front yard and going H2O tolerant - I've settled on a DG pathway and landscape rock so far - but looking for more inspiration.
Hey there Paul, thank you for the kind words! That’s awesome that you started on your project...it will be incredibly rewarding looking back knowing you did it yourself!! DG is a great choice...I hope that goes well for you! I’m actually working on another video about a lawn replacing plant called Dwarf Carpet of Stars. It goes hand in hand with drought tolerant landscapes. You might want to look into that for a ground cover for you project. Well feel free to reach out if you have any questions along your way. Thanks for watchin! - Dom
Yes! Please do more tutorials like this please! You should also consider some maintenance videos about plants and other things in the landscape Any tips on how to estimate/give prices to clients?
Heeeeey Gus! Thanks for watchin man. Yeah will definitely do more like these. For pricing, I usually use square footage or linear footage formulas for each aspect of the landscape. Sometimes that will change depending on the site conditions, but the SF and LF gives me a good base line. But you have to calculate that out first for each elements. Include labor, material, and overhead. Hope this helps!
Thanks for this. We now feel we have a basic knowledge of how to install DG. Very helpful. This will be perfect for our backyard in East Contra Costa County.
Pepper Tree Villa - Hi! I live in Concord and we’re thinking of DG. Just wondered if you installed it, whether you hired someone or DIY, how it went. Thanks!
whirlygirl8 We haven’t yet installed it. Our backyard project stalled due to a problem with our contractor. But we plan to install it ourselves. We have a friend that has worked with it before that is going to help.
If I have loamy soil and I opt for a layer of road base, how many inches deep should I choose? Does the road base sit on the fabric or under it? Thanks! Great video.
Love the video. Planning out my yard now. Do you have a video about planting and irrigating in DG? Looking to do a dessert landscape with mostly succulents. Thanks!
Awesome! Sooo I’m actually in progress of a video about DG and irrigation… so funny you asked about that! Should be out later next month as I still need to complete the project. In general, you can use blank 1/2” drip tubing, then insert a fixed drip emitter wherever you have a plant. The drip lines get stapled down and buried in the DG. Thank way nothing shows above ground other than the small emitter at the base of the plant! Check this short vid… although it’s not in DG, this gives an idea of the drip line configuration.. ruclips.net/user/shortsrRKkzrWOR38?si=zWZqocZIZZaGTgMq
Thank you for the great video. At 4:35 , you mention excavating soil to be 2.5" below the edging or hardscaping, and at 6:15 you mention using a 3" height of decomposed granite. Is the extra .5" to compensate for compacting the DG? Also, how deep should the layer of road base be? Should we then be measuring 2.5" from the top of the road base to the edging/hardscape? Thanks again.
Thank you for the video, it's great. I'm super happy you mentioned screened DG because I was really looking for something finer. I have a QUESTION, I saw in other tutorials that you need to install DG in multiple layers and wet each layers so it compacts better. Is it necessary? Thank you very much
Sure thing! So yes, some folks do it in layers. It’s necessary if you don’t have a vibratory plate and are just doing it by hand. But if you rent the machine, you should be able to do it one one shot. However, you may need to add more once it’s compacted and do it again because it will compact pretty far down.
So you don’t have to add any water to cure it or make it harder? How long does it take to go from tamped dirt to a hard as rock surface? How long before you can get water on it if there are plants nearby? Does heat hasten the process? iI thought the whole point of it was that it was hard enough to discourage weeds WITHOUT weed cloth. Lovely video. I’m doing a 2 inch edge between concrete but I need drainage….
Good questions! So most DG comes with a low amount of moisture content (especially when delivered in bulk) and is often times enough moisture to tamp and compact. You may need to lightly sprinkle surface when compacting if need be. And weed barrier is not a must. We have actually been doing more installations without weed barrier and it’s just as effective (given the proper sun grade compaction). And yet, on a hot day, water will most likely need to be added during compaction. But not much. Otherwise it makes the vibratory plate sticky and causes mud. It will generally take a solid week to harden but can be walked on after a couple days usually. A little water won’t hurt it. In fact it’s beneficial to very lightly sprinkle the surface the following couple days to extend the drying process to help prevent cracking.
Such a fantastic and easy-to-understand video, thank you! Quick question, when in the process would we plant the succulents? Before or after laying and compacting the DG?
Thanks so much! So that can be a tricky bit about planting in DG. I like to use a much thinner layer of DG when planting through it. And I also leave it in compacted directly around the base of the plant. It’s very important to have no more than an inch of DG as a top layer around the base.
We have a very long area between the sidewalk and the curb where you park. I call it an island. I want to use DG in there to give that area a clean look. There's a tree in the island, will it be safe for the plant? You said water can permeate down through it.
Yes absolutely… Decompose granite does wonders for parkways as it can easily be walked on but allows water to percolate down through four trees. Just don’t heavily compacted around the base of the tree. In fact, I would suggest a loose gravel or rock around any trees in the parkway to allow for airflow.
Thank you for making this! I've seen others recommend incremental additions of layers of DG: layer; compact then wet; next layer; compact then wet; repeat. 1/4 -1/2 " at a time. Any thoughts?
Thanks! So in most cases the road base is not really necessary in residential applications. It’s helpful if you have heavy clay soil, and/or if the DG will be taking any vehicle traffic.
Great video, however I thought it was not a good work method to lay weed fabric as the dg will not bond to the soil and be more vulnerable to shift causing premature surface cracks.
Great video. Just wondering if the edging is a must? I’m planning a naturalistic dry garden with a path winding through and would prefer not to have a hard edge, unless it’s necessary… Thanks!
The exact covering for transforming our backyard into a desert oasis! One question and my answer is probably buried in comments, but at what stage in the project do you lay pavers? Thanks!
I have a 13x10 space and it’s dug out now to 3”. I live in Anaheim, CA and will go this route instead of pouring a slab of concrete. The plan is to put a bench in this area next to my batting cage in the back yard. Should I use low grade DG or higher grade? Thanks
Sweet! I’d personally go with coarse DG. It doesn’t look quite as refined as the fine DG, however it shows less fracturing. But either one should yield a pretty good result.
does it have to be level? To reduce the amount of work, I am thinking of just getting rid of 4" around the edges about 18" wide and just smooth out the transition and do what you did with couple small ponds and couple bushes and wood chips areas (with composite edges) to make it more natural. Do you think that will work?
Hey! So yes, that is a possibility, however you would run the risk of more cracking around those thinner edges. I would still suggest to keep it consistent. Minimum 2.5” deep if it’s not a surface for driving. 4” for driving surfaces.
Great & very informative video, I plan on putting down this material on my horse shoe driveway! My question is should the weed fabric go down 1st & then the gravel or vice versa? Thank you
Would there be a problem using this DG in Massachusetts where the winter causes heaving? Also, would it be hard enough for lawn furniture or would chair legs sink into it. Thank you.
Yes I think the wet conditions would no work too well… it would show a lot of ware very quickly. And yes, the furniture legs would sink in if it got wet. I would suggest some kind of decorative gravel as an alternative.
Great video! Have you added 'flagstone' that would be flush with the DG? Any suggestions that would change the process? I would think the flagstone wouldn't sit directly on the road base, but would need a layer of the DG to sit on. And then there's the vibratory plate : ). Thanks!
It depends… Bulk DG usually comes with some amount of moisture content in it. it’s often times enough to get good compaction without adding water. Occasionally we do lightly sprinkle the top layer with water if needed. If the DG is too dry, then yes, definitely add water to each layer as you compact.
While there is some quartz content similar to laterite, it’s not clay-based like laterite. It’s mostly granite particles of different sizes that ‘lock’ together forming a compactable surface.
I have the same question as Clueless in California down below, about the road base and the weed blocker. You said the surface should be smooth before you lay down the weed blocker material, but road base is rocky. So what goes in between? Thanks!
Great video! So, if we're adding road base - should we install the weed fabric under or over the road base? So, the layers would be ground -- weed fabric -- road base -- DG?
Correct.. weed fab, base, DG. However, I have actually been getting away from using weed barrier since it can become problematic down the line if you need to make repairs to the DG.
Thanks for the kind words! So I like the kind that Ewing Irrigation and Landscape has. They are a national company and I believe they do provide delivery to major areas. If there’s not a local Ewing, Lowe’s has decent edging. Just don’t get the black tubes edging in rolls. Good luck!
How do you determine if you need the road bed gravel layer? Does it go under or over the weed barrier? Can you use paver panels as underlayment for DG? When making a DG patio island in a lawn area without adjacent hardscape, should the DG and the top of its edging be at the level of the ground (potentially more drainage issues) or at the level of the top of the grass (potential tripping issues)? I have seen some mention of sod-edging (which to me seems like edging-free installation). How does one do that?
I have the same question about the road base and the weed blocker. He said the surface should be smooth before you lay down the weed blocker material, but road base is rocky. So what goes in between?
I generally am now putting the weed fabric between the native soil and the road base. However, this is for expansive soil (clay, caliche). For stable soils I don’t use weed fabric. And rarely road base, unless it’s for heavy traffic or vehicles.
I was planing to put this under an oak tree which sheds year long and drops bunch of acorns in fall. My concern is that of i use blower to clean the area, it would blow DG away. Is that valid concern or is it pretty hard/ stable to handle the blower?
When would you need to use roadbase vs fine using the dirt you already have? Is it all whether the current soil does a good job of soaking in the water? This video has been super helpful! Thank you!
It’s possible. Just note that the concrete underneath will prevent the DG from being permeable, which is one of the major benefits of DG. I recommend to remove the concrete first.
Is the landscape fabric used here woven or non-woven? For a gravel walkway with sawn-cut limestone slab pavers, would we want fabric that allows water permeation or not?
So how does it harden? I want to do this under a patio table and don't want it to get Sandy or the table to dig holes. My ground is already hard rocky red clay. What happens during normal winter rain?
It hardens naturally when it’s compacted. However, it does still have the tendency to have loose particles on top. You can use Technisoil for additional hardening which helps lock in most of the topical sandy particles, but it also has to be treated yearly in most cases. That’s why I generally prefer the natural hardening and just broom the top layer every so often. In rain, tables and chairs can cause ‘divots’ so I recommend not to use the DG until it hardens again after a few days.
during the intro you said you love DG because of its ability to let water through or it permeability. Teh a couple minutes later you said to avoid it in wet climates but you didn't say why. Can you elaborate for me please?
Good question. So when it rains, water can percolate through DG, which is a good practice dryer climates like the Southwest. This keeps water on site as opposed to running off out into storm drains. More and more cities are incorporating more permeable hardscape for this reason. Now in climates that get lots of rain like the Pacific Northwest, this could cause the DG to breakdown and erode, creating a constant maintenance issue. So a little rain=OK. Too much=issues :)
Thank you so much for your video! Very helpful and clear! A question I have is; would decomposed granite stay put on a slight slope when it pours? Or would it wash away? And would it drain enough of the storm water, or would it be best to use crushed stone or pea gravel for this situation? (The yard is sloped 4’ at a length of 40’)
Thanks! So slopes are touchy with DG. It sounds like yours is mild enough where it would probably be OK. If you’re in a location that gets a fair amount of rain, I might steer you away from that just because of runoff issues. If there is a possibility of retaining the outer edge of the DG to make the area a little more flat, that would be ideal. Sorry I can’t be a little more specific on this one!
I would suggest either gravel or concrete pad. Being under a shed, DG can potentially hold water if it doesn’t have the chance to dry out after a rain.
Generally, when ordered in bulk, DG has a low moisture content, which is generally good for initial compaction. Then you want to wet the top (not over saturated) again and compact it.
Hi In Oregon Here and I have my heart set on DG over road rock. We have it in a park nearby and love it, but you don;t recommend it for rainy areas I'd like to know why? If it's so stable and permeable, it shouldn't turn to mud, right? Would love to know why you'd stear clear for we PNW's. Thanks!
Hey!!… so I absolutely LOVE the pnw. Wouldn’t mind living up there one day :) So some parts where rain is maybe not quite as intense I think would be just fine. Rain has a tendency to creat some wash out or runoff patterns. If it’s not walked on for a few days after a heavy rain and has a chance to dry out it should be ok. I would keep the grade no more than 3-4% in rainy areas to reduce runoff patterning. And this occurs even with road base and great compaction.
Hey thanks for your reply! Good advice. It'll be in an area where it's a seasonal area, car washing/ turnaround, no furniture really. If you don't mind a second question, powder stabilizer mixed in vs. topical liquid for PNW? Thanks!
My pleasure, and happy to help! I definitely recommend the powder stabilizer versus the liquid topical. Especially in those areas that do get more rain. Over a period of wetting and drying, the topical hardener can potentially flake off. Now with that said, you could do the liquid hardener in layers, which is actually recommended. But even still I’ve seen it flake and chunk off. In your case, I would go with the powder hardener, or no hardener at all. The benefit of not using any stabilizing chemicals is that water will percolate down through the DG at a quicker rate.
I recently moved from California where it seems like DG is everywhere to New York where it rains more days than it's sunny. What kind of ground cover would you recommend that is permeable & cost effective? I was hoping to build a patio area for furniture as well as paths between raised garden beds & lawn.
A smaller 3/8” to 5/8” pea gravel is great. Even better if you use a stabilizing plastic substrate. It makes it easier to walk on and helps prevent wash out in the rain.
When I was younger I could have done this myself but now I need a parking area between my house and barn. How would I go about hiring someone to do it and not get screwed over? I understand the CF/CY/Ton math, I purchased roadway materials for a state agency for years. But finding a reputable company is still hit or miss.
Thanks! Weeds do occasionally get into DG, most often right at the edging. The best thing to do is just hand pull any weeds that might pop up. You can also spot treat as needed with an herbicide or a vinegar solution. Using topical liquid hardener does also help prevent weeds, but it also makes the DG less permeable. So it’s kind of a trade off. And yes, it’s great to use adjacent to turf. Hope this helps! - Dom
@@RootedTheory Do you suggest to use double layer of weed barrier fabric or plastic underneath weedbarrier to prevent weeds? Also which weedbarrier do you recommend?
No not necessary. A good non-woven geotextile fabric will work. Don’t get the kind that are made of stretchy rubber/plastic. They fall apart and breakdown very quickly.
Do you use some sort of bonding agent to so the DG can harden after being compacted? I could walk on DG pathway at commercial landscape, I suppose they mix DG with something or cement.
There is a product called Technisoil which is a polymer binding agent. However I typically don’t use bonding agents because although it makes the surface harder, it’s difficult to make surface repairs.
If you have expansive soil... for example soils with high clay content where movement can occur from wetting and drying. Also extreme sandy soil would benefit from a layer of road base.
@@RootedTheory I’m new to this so I’m not too sure what type of soil I have. It just looks like dirt to me. What are the consequences I face if I just excavate the ground, and apply DG without a gravel base?
@@RootedTheory to help my understanding, what is the purpose of adding a layer of road base? And is there a difference between road base and gravel base?
Not a problem. So road base is similar to gravel but it has crushed fines mixed in so it compacts really well. If you are installing DG over expensive soil and do not use the road base, it has greater risk of cracking. HOWEVER, It’s inevitable that DG will fracture a little just by the nature of it. The road base just helps prevent it somewhat. But not a cure-all. I’d say I only use it 10% of the time.
@@RootedTheory I see. I am planning on making a portion of my backyard be a DG patio. It won’t see much foot traffic. For this project, would it be okay to skip adding road base and just compact the dirt and add the DG over it?
Wondering what bender board product you would recommend. It seems the local big home improvement stores don't carry the style of composite board you show in the video.
Hey! So yes you are correct, it’s thicker edging is desirable you keep the DG in place. I have noticed that some Home Depot locations are starting to carry the better composite material, however landscape supply stores are still the best bet. Ewing is a national chain and would have products like this.
@@RootedTheory Great. Thank you for the information. I found Ewing online and was wondering if they had good edging. PS. Great video, organized and clear! Keep them coming. :)
Thanks for watchin! So there’s not a whole lot out there that would be an equal substitute to DG, but you could look at a 3/8” crushed gravel. It doesn’t compact like DG but does tend to lock in tighter than more rounded pebbles.
If you compact it the level of the DG will go down I didn't see where you said to add more to get back up to desired grade (top of edging). How about adding moisture to the Dg if it's too dry or not to use water if it's already full of moisture?
This is correct. Sometimes it’s desirable to add another layer after the first layer is compacted if you want to keep any of the edging from becoming exposed. And it’s often helpful to moisten the DG if it becomes dried out in the compaction process. Good points.
At 7:13 looked like plastic sheet. Earlier you were using black landscape fabric. Also how do you stop weeds from growing out of the dg? I have been fighting the weeds. And my dg is so dusty. What went wrong?
Hi! That is just a different color weed fabric. Some come in light gray, some are darker in color. But definitely stay away from the plastic kind. In regards to weeds...it’s inevitable that weeds will happen, but if DG is compacted really well, you will get fewer of them. Also if weeds become a serious problem (it varies in different areas), you can try the liquid topical hardener. That could also help with your dust problem. It could also be that it was not compacted very well.
How do you install large pavers or step stones to the DG? I have some areas where I would like to add some large pavers but I can’t figure out if I place them on the DG before I compact it?
In general, pavers would go in before the DG. If you are using large pavers individually set with gaps between, these should go over a compacted sub base or cement base prior to DG. Compacting DG between the paver gaps can be done with a board cut to fit the size of the gap, then tamped to get the compaction. It definitely requires extra steps, but can’t look fantastic.
Is paver base suitable for DG for a pathway/patio instead of road base? My local bulk yard recommended it over road base. I'm in the Dallas area with clay soil. Have to say I already bought the paver base, so I'm crossing my fingers bc I don't want to have to return it.
I live in Northern Utah we get snow in the winter but it is pretty dry in the summer. If we didn't walk on it in the winter, would DG work for a garden pathway?
I do believe I have seen applications of DG in UT. My initial thought is that DG would probably do OK, it may just require some additional maintenance after cool season.
I live in Upstate NY. Would a DG patio be ok with our weather? Snow in the winter but I won’t be shoveling this area. More concerned on the effects of rain.
So generally, the more rain, the more the DG might erode. My initial thought would be NY may be a little too wet. I would suggest to check local suppliers to see if they are stocking DG.
I personally have never tried it, but it’s an interesting concept. It seems like the clay would act as a binder, however if it got saturated, it seems like it may create a mess. Definitely worth trying in a small area.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This is excellent. Thank you for not having a long intro with your song, your life motto, your kids and pets and chit chat about what you've been going through the last 24 hours before this video was made! All I need are the "how to's." And you delivered!
Be advised all DIYers some bulk yards have more than one grade of DG: the lower cost DG has more pebbles and is coarser. Suitable for a driveway, not best for cosmetics. For walkways and best looks ask for screened DG which is finer and compacts better and is more stable. Looks better.
Now I read this lol
Thank you so much for this tip. It saves me lots of headache and backhurt
🙏🏽🙏🏽
Have to ask. Can I use this as a base to put a storage shed on?
Yes that should not be a problem in drier climates. For wetter climates, I would recommend road or paver base or some kind of compactable gravel that will provide better drainage than DG.
Followed this video 2 years ago for my first DG install at my house- came back for a refresher because the first install was so successful I’m now doing two more areas including a nice sitting area under a giant sycamore with a bench swing. First was a 4 cu.yd install, this one is 9! Thanks so much
Reading this made my day!!! So glad to be of help with your projects!! Thank you so much for the comment… and good luck on the project! 😎🙏🏼
@@RootedTheory just finished yesterday and the wife couldn’t believe the transformation when she came outside. Had my 2yo boy out there helping, shoveling and of course playing with just dirtbike and monster truck toys on the piles
Incredible!!! And that’s super special you had the little guy help. He might not remember but it creates bonds that last forever. Love it!
Finally! A easy to follow, simply explained tutorial! Thank you!!
My pleasure!!
Thank you for a great explanation of DG. (And I did have fun!)
One of the best videos I've seen. Clear and easy to understand.
Thanks so much for the kind words!! Much appreciated 🙏🏼🙏🏼
After watching many tutorials, this is one of the best..well explained ones, wish all were explained and presented like this one…
Keep up the work , you deserve more views!!!
And I’m pretty sure the view counts are already getting better!!
Thank u soooooo much!! Really appreciate that and make me want to keep making vids :))
Cool! This is exactly what I’ve been looking for!
I had been trying to figure out a way to work on my front/backyard, and this is ideal!! I saw it on a friend's yard and then came straight to youtube (for the details). Thanks for a simple straight forward explanation! 👍
Awesome!! Glad I could help :)
Thank you so much for making this tutorial! Now I know I'd rather save the money to have someone install our project for us so it looks just right:) This video is terrific and really, really helpful. Thank you!
Ahhh thanks Megan!! Really appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching!
- Dom
I've watched thousands of landscaping 'how-to' videos lately (o.k - major exaggeration lol) and so happy that I just found yours. I am a newbie to working in the yard in my house in Los Angeles and I find your vids very helpful. I ripped out the turf in my small front yard and going H2O tolerant - I've settled on a DG pathway and landscape rock so far - but looking for more inspiration.
Hey there Paul, thank you for the kind words! That’s awesome that you started on your project...it will be incredibly rewarding looking back knowing you did it yourself!! DG is a great choice...I hope that goes well for you! I’m actually working on another video about a lawn replacing plant called Dwarf Carpet of Stars. It goes hand in hand with drought tolerant landscapes. You might want to look into that for a ground cover for you project. Well feel free to reach out if you have any questions along your way. Thanks for watchin!
- Dom
Great video. Thank-you for sharing!
Thanks!!! Much appreciated
This is SUCH high quality content. Like, wow.
Thanks James!! Really appreciate that… very encouraging 😎
Wow that was a great video. I’m fully confident I can do this job based on that very clear explanation.
Awesome!! Please feel free to reach out with any questions you might have along the way.
- Dom
Great one ☝️
Glad I found this. Perfect affordable Mother’s Day give for the kids and I to do
Well done. Just the facts. Just what I was looking for. Many thanks.
My pleasure 😎 Thanks for watchin!
Very helpful video. Thanks.
Thanks for watchin 😎
Thanks for the video. Very clear, easy to understand and a valuable instructions for us to do it. Congrats !
Yes! Please do more tutorials like this please! You should also consider some maintenance videos about plants and other things in the landscape
Any tips on how to estimate/give prices to clients?
Heeeeey Gus! Thanks for watchin man. Yeah will definitely do more like these. For pricing, I usually use square footage or linear footage formulas for each aspect of the landscape. Sometimes that will change depending on the site conditions, but the SF and LF gives me a good base line. But you have to calculate that out first for each elements. Include labor, material, and overhead. Hope this helps!
Thanks for this. We now feel we have a basic knowledge of how to install DG. Very helpful. This will be perfect for our backyard in East Contra Costa County.
Awesome!! Glad this could help you guys. Feel free to reach out with any questions in the process. Good luck!
- Dom
Pepper Tree Villa - Hi! I live in Concord and we’re thinking of DG. Just wondered if you installed it, whether you hired someone or DIY, how it went. Thanks!
whirlygirl8 We haven’t yet installed it. Our backyard project stalled due to a problem with our contractor. But we plan to install it ourselves. We have a friend that has worked with it before that is going to help.
If I have loamy soil and I opt for a layer of road base, how many inches deep should I choose? Does the road base sit on the fabric or under it? Thanks! Great video.
Very, very good and helpful video. And inspiring. Gonna give it a go!
Awesome thanks Peter!
- Dom
Hey, Thank you. I wasn't sure about the stabilizer.
Love the video. Planning out my yard now. Do you have a video about planting and irrigating in DG? Looking to do a dessert landscape with mostly succulents. Thanks!
Awesome! Sooo I’m actually in progress of a video about DG and irrigation… so funny you asked about that! Should be out later next month as I still need to complete the project. In general, you can use blank 1/2” drip tubing, then insert a fixed drip emitter wherever you have a plant. The drip lines get stapled down and buried in the DG. Thank way nothing shows above ground other than the small emitter at the base of the plant! Check this short vid… although it’s not in DG, this gives an idea of the drip line configuration..
ruclips.net/user/shortsrRKkzrWOR38?si=zWZqocZIZZaGTgMq
@@RootedTheory Fantastic! Thanks again.
Very good job. Thanks! Clear explanation of DG. The Zoolander spoof at 1:15 was fun.
Many thanks Gus! Glad you enjoyed, and thanks for watchin!
- Dom
Excellent information. thankyou.
really enjoyed this thank you.
Thank you for the to the point video!
Thanks for watchin! 😎
Great explanation and demo!
Thank you for the great video. At 4:35 , you mention excavating soil to be 2.5" below the edging or hardscaping, and at 6:15 you mention using a 3" height of decomposed granite. Is the extra .5" to compensate for compacting the DG? Also, how deep should the layer of road base be? Should we then be measuring 2.5" from the top of the road base to the edging/hardscape? Thanks again.
I have the same question!
Great explanation, thank you!
Thanks for watchin!
- Dom
Wow
Thank you for the great video.
Outstanding video!
Many thanks!!!!
Thank you for the video, it's great. I'm super happy you mentioned screened DG because I was really looking for something finer. I have a QUESTION, I saw in other tutorials that you need to install DG in multiple layers and wet each layers so it compacts better. Is it necessary? Thank you very much
Sure thing! So yes, some folks do it in layers. It’s necessary if you don’t have a vibratory plate and are just doing it by hand. But if you rent the machine, you should be able to do it one one shot. However, you may need to add more once it’s compacted and do it again because it will compact pretty far down.
So you don’t have to add any water to cure it or make it harder? How long does it take to go from tamped dirt to a hard as rock surface? How long before you can get water on it if there are plants nearby? Does heat hasten the process? iI thought the whole point of it was that it was hard enough to discourage weeds WITHOUT weed cloth. Lovely video. I’m doing a 2 inch edge between concrete but I need drainage….
Good questions! So most DG comes with a low amount of moisture content (especially when delivered in bulk) and is often times enough moisture to tamp and compact. You may need to lightly sprinkle surface when compacting if need be. And weed barrier is not a must. We have actually been doing more installations without weed barrier and it’s just as effective (given the proper sun grade compaction). And yet, on a hot day, water will most likely need to be added during compaction. But not much. Otherwise it makes the vibratory plate sticky and causes mud. It will generally take a solid week to harden but can be walked on after a couple days usually. A little water won’t hurt it. In fact it’s beneficial to very lightly sprinkle the surface the following couple days to extend the drying process to help prevent cracking.
Thank you. That is very helpful!
Keep it up good info..
Thanks Rajesh!!! 🙏🏼🙏🏼😎
Thanks! great video, going for it this weekend!
Niiiiice! Hope it turns out great!
When replacing grass with DG, what do you recommend doing with the existing sprinklers and water lines in place?
Such a fantastic and easy-to-understand video, thank you! Quick question, when in the process would we plant the succulents? Before or after laying and compacting the DG?
Thanks so much! So that can be a tricky bit about planting in DG. I like to use a much thinner layer of DG when planting through it. And I also leave it in compacted directly around the base of the plant. It’s very important to have no more than an inch of DG as a top layer around the base.
We have a very long area between the sidewalk and the curb where you park. I call it an island. I want to use DG in there to give that area a clean look. There's a tree in the island, will it be safe for the plant? You said water can permeate down through it.
Yes absolutely… Decompose granite does wonders for parkways as it can easily be walked on but allows water to percolate down through four trees. Just don’t heavily compacted around the base of the tree. In fact, I would suggest a loose gravel or rock around any trees in the parkway to allow for airflow.
I'm so grateful you responded. Thankyou, I will let my husband know what we need to do for the parkway and the tree to keep it healthy.
My pleasure! Feel free to reach out with any questions along the way.
Thank you for making this! I've seen others recommend incremental additions of layers of DG: layer; compact then wet; next layer; compact then wet; repeat. 1/4 -1/2 " at a time. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the video, it was well done. One question that I can't seem to find an answer to is when does one need roadbase under the DG?
Thanks! So in most cases the road base is not really necessary in residential applications. It’s helpful if you have heavy clay soil, and/or if the DG will be taking any vehicle traffic.
Great video, however I thought it was not a good work method to lay weed fabric as the dg will not bond to the soil and be more vulnerable to shift causing premature surface cracks.
Great video. Just wondering if the edging is a must? I’m planning a naturalistic dry garden with a path winding through and would prefer not to have a hard edge, unless it’s necessary… Thanks!
Edging is not necessary if you want a natural look that ‘bleeds’ into adjacent planter spaces. You can do this for a more organic informal feel.
@@RootedTheory Great, thanks, the answer I was hoping for!
Would you be able to refer me on how to level my yard before dumping the DG? I am clearing the lawn, but look to see about getting it relatively flat.
For small areas and short pathways, a pick, flat shovel and grading rake is adequate. If it’s a very big area, a skid steer with a flat bucket.
Amazing video, thank you! One question: If I were to planning to plant succulents into the DG, at what stage do you recommend doing it?
The exact covering for transforming our backyard into a desert oasis! One question and my answer is probably buried in comments, but at what stage in the project do you lay pavers? Thanks!
I have a 13x10 space and it’s dug out now to 3”. I live in Anaheim, CA and will go this route instead of pouring a slab of concrete. The plan is to put a bench in this area next to my batting cage in the back yard. Should I use low grade DG or higher grade? Thanks
Sweet! I’d personally go with coarse DG. It doesn’t look quite as refined as the fine DG, however it shows less fracturing. But either one should yield a pretty good result.
does it have to be level? To reduce the amount of work, I am thinking of just getting rid of 4" around the edges about 18" wide and just smooth out the transition and do what you did with couple small ponds and couple bushes and wood chips areas (with composite edges) to make it more natural. Do you think that will work?
Hey! So yes, that is a possibility, however you would run the risk of more cracking around those thinner edges. I would still suggest to keep it consistent. Minimum 2.5” deep if it’s not a surface for driving. 4” for driving surfaces.
Great & very informative video, I plan on putting down this material on my horse shoe driveway! My question is should the weed fabric go down 1st & then the gravel or vice versa? Thank you
Thanks for watching! I would suggest to put down the geotextile fabric, then the compacted road base, the DG 😎
Would there be a problem using this DG in Massachusetts where the winter causes heaving? Also, would it be hard enough for lawn furniture or would chair legs sink into it. Thank you.
Yes I think the wet conditions would no work too well… it would show a lot of ware very quickly. And yes, the furniture legs would sink in if it got wet. I would suggest some kind of decorative gravel as an alternative.
Great video! Have you added 'flagstone' that would be flush with the DG? Any suggestions that would change the process? I would think the flagstone wouldn't sit directly on the road base, but would need a layer of the DG to sit on. And then there's the vibratory plate : ). Thanks!
Great video. So dont have to add water to it to harden it? Just compact it dry?
It depends… Bulk DG usually comes with some amount of moisture content in it. it’s often times enough to get good compaction without adding water. Occasionally we do lightly sprinkle the top layer with water if needed. If the DG is too dry, then yes, definitely add water to each layer as you compact.
Very helpful thank you. How does this product differ from laterite?
While there is some quartz content similar to laterite, it’s not clay-based like laterite. It’s mostly granite particles of different sizes that ‘lock’ together forming a compactable surface.
@@RootedTheory Thank you!
I have the same question as Clueless in California down below, about the road base and the weed blocker. You said the surface should be smooth before you lay down the weed blocker material, but road base is rocky. So what goes in between? Thanks!
Great video! So, if we're adding road base - should we install the weed fabric under or over the road base? So, the layers would be ground -- weed fabric -- road base -- DG?
Correct.. weed fab, base, DG. However, I have actually been getting away from using weed barrier since it can become problematic down the line if you need to make repairs to the DG.
@@RootedTheory Interesting! Thanks for your quick reply and that tip. I'm going to give it a go! : )
Hello! I’m wondering the brand of composite edging and stakes used in this video. Thanks so much for providing quality content :)
Thanks for the kind words! So I like the kind that Ewing Irrigation and Landscape has. They are a national company and I believe they do provide delivery to major areas. If there’s not a local Ewing, Lowe’s has decent edging. Just don’t get the black tubes edging in rolls. Good luck!
How do you determine if you need the road bed gravel layer? Does it go under or over the weed barrier?
Can you use paver panels as underlayment for DG?
When making a DG patio island in a lawn area without adjacent hardscape, should the DG and the top of its edging be at the level of the ground (potentially more drainage issues) or at the level of the top of the grass (potential tripping issues)?
I have seen some mention of sod-edging (which to me seems like edging-free installation). How does one do that?
I have the same question about the road base and the weed blocker. He said the surface should be smooth before you lay down the weed blocker material, but road base is rocky. So what goes in between?
I generally am now putting the weed fabric between the native soil and the road base. However, this is for expansive soil (clay, caliche). For stable soils I don’t use weed fabric. And rarely road base, unless it’s for heavy traffic or vehicles.
Any chance you can share what type of markers you were using in the designing portion
Looking for something like this that works on a slight slope for drainage, would this wash away? Thank you!
Hey! Yes, unfortunately, this would wash away with a slope degree greater than about 4 to 5°. Maybe go with something like a 3/8 gravel.
I was planing to put this under an oak tree which sheds year long and drops bunch of acorns in fall. My concern is that of i use blower to clean the area, it would blow DG away. Is that valid concern or is it pretty hard/ stable to handle the blower?
I actually recommend DG to use under oaks for that very purpose. Oak leaf drop is insane, and with DG. It’s very easy to blow/sweep off.
When would you need to use roadbase vs fine using the dirt you already have? Is it all whether the current soil does a good job of soaking in the water? This video has been super helpful! Thank you!
good video do you think I can use DG over existing concrete? please help
It’s possible. Just note that the concrete underneath will prevent the DG from being permeable, which is one of the major benefits of DG. I recommend to remove the concrete first.
is there anything to be concerned with when installing to replace a lawn? IE damage to the water pipes of sprinklers?
Do we still need to spritz water when we're done? Thanks for sharing.
Yes it can be helpful to solidify the surface.
Would you use a sealer lime DG Rain Koat if you are subject to rain? I'm in Northern California
It’s been my experience that stabilizers and sealers just wear out overtime and cause more maintenance problems. I just go all natural.
What about leaves falling on it, is it safe to use blower across it (not directly on the granite)?
I recommend a blower on lower settings or a light broom
Also, what are your thoughts for gopher barrier wire? Source?
Gopher wire is a must in high gopher areas. Protects the investment! Check out Ewing Irrigation and Landscape.
Is the landscape fabric used here woven or non-woven? For a gravel walkway with sawn-cut limestone slab pavers, would we want fabric that allows water permeation or not?
Non woven is usually the choice. Yes, I’d use it under rock/gravel walkways as well for stability.
So how does it harden? I want to do this under a patio table and don't want it to get Sandy or the table to dig holes. My ground is already hard rocky red clay. What happens during normal winter rain?
It hardens naturally when it’s compacted. However, it does still have the tendency to have loose particles on top. You can use Technisoil for additional hardening which helps lock in most of the topical sandy particles, but it also has to be treated yearly in most cases. That’s why I generally prefer the natural hardening and just broom the top layer every so often. In rain, tables and chairs can cause ‘divots’ so I recommend not to use the DG until it hardens again after a few days.
Just subbed. Great video!
during the intro you said you love DG because of its ability to let water through or it permeability. Teh a couple minutes later you said to avoid it in wet climates but you didn't say why. Can you elaborate for me please?
Good question. So when it rains, water can percolate through DG, which is a good practice dryer climates like the Southwest. This keeps water on site as opposed to running off out into storm drains. More and more cities are incorporating more permeable hardscape for this reason.
Now in climates that get lots of rain like the Pacific Northwest, this could cause the DG to breakdown and erode, creating a constant maintenance issue.
So a little rain=OK. Too much=issues :)
Thank you so much for your video!
Very helpful and clear!
A question I have is; would decomposed granite stay put on a slight slope when it pours? Or would it wash away? And would it drain enough of the storm water, or would it be best to use crushed stone or pea gravel for this situation? (The yard is sloped 4’ at a length of 40’)
Thanks! So slopes are touchy with DG. It sounds like yours is mild enough where it would probably be OK. If you’re in a location that gets a fair amount of rain, I might steer you away from that just because of runoff issues. If there is a possibility of retaining the outer edge of the DG to make the area a little more flat, that would be ideal. Sorry I can’t be a little more specific on this one!
Indy Van derGeer, We have nearly the identical situation. What did you end up doing?
Hi! Do you put landscape fabric over roadbase or the sand? The video shows it after roadbase. Thanks
Can I put a shed on DG, or should I pour a concrete pad for the shed, then surround the pad with DG?
I would suggest either gravel or concrete pad. Being under a shed, DG can potentially hold water if it doesn’t have the chance to dry out after a rain.
@@RootedTheory Thank you, sir!
Dose the trated dg need to be moistened before the installation?
Generally, when ordered in bulk, DG has a low moisture content, which is generally good for initial compaction. Then you want to wet the top (not over saturated) again and compact it.
Hi In Oregon Here and I have my heart set on DG over road rock. We have it in a park nearby and love it, but you don;t recommend it for rainy areas I'd like to know why? If it's so stable and permeable, it shouldn't turn to mud, right? Would love to know why you'd stear clear for we PNW's. Thanks!
Hey!!… so I absolutely LOVE the pnw. Wouldn’t mind living up there one day :) So some parts where rain is maybe not quite as intense I think would be just fine. Rain has a tendency to creat some wash out or runoff patterns. If it’s not walked on for a few days after a heavy rain and has a chance to dry out it should be ok. I would keep the grade no more than 3-4% in rainy areas to reduce runoff patterning. And this occurs even with road base and great compaction.
Hey thanks for your reply! Good advice. It'll be in an area where it's a seasonal area, car washing/ turnaround, no furniture really. If you don't mind a second question, powder stabilizer mixed in vs. topical liquid for PNW? Thanks!
My pleasure, and happy to help! I definitely recommend the powder stabilizer versus the liquid topical. Especially in those areas that do get more rain. Over a period of wetting and drying, the topical hardener can potentially flake off. Now with that said, you could do the liquid hardener in layers, which is actually recommended. But even still I’ve seen it flake and chunk off. In your case, I would go with the powder hardener, or no hardener at all. The benefit of not using any stabilizing chemicals is that water will percolate down through the DG at a quicker rate.
How well would this hold up with a sloping pathway? Worried about run off in heavy rain taking the dg with it
DG gets water channeling on slopes.. so anything more than a 2 or 3 % grade and it doesn’t work too well with rain.
I recently moved from California where it seems like DG is everywhere to New York where it rains more days than it's sunny. What kind of ground cover would you recommend that is permeable & cost effective? I was hoping to build a patio area for furniture as well as paths between raised garden beds & lawn.
A smaller 3/8” to 5/8” pea gravel is great. Even better if you use a stabilizing plastic substrate. It makes it easier to walk on and helps prevent wash out in the rain.
When I was younger I could have done this myself but now I need a parking area between my house and barn. How would I go about hiring someone to do it and not get screwed over? I understand the CF/CY/Ton math, I purchased roadway materials for a state agency for years. But finding a reputable company is still hit or miss.
What is the best way to keep weeds out of the DG? Also, can you use DG directly adjacent to artificial grass? Than you for the video, it was great!
Thanks! Weeds do occasionally get into DG, most often right at the edging. The best thing to do is just hand pull any weeds that might pop up. You can also spot treat as needed with an herbicide or a vinegar solution. Using topical liquid hardener does also help prevent weeds, but it also makes the DG less permeable. So it’s kind of a trade off. And yes, it’s great to use adjacent to turf. Hope this helps!
- Dom
@@RootedTheory Do you suggest to use double layer of weed barrier fabric or plastic underneath weedbarrier to prevent weeds? Also which weedbarrier do you recommend?
No not necessary. A good non-woven geotextile fabric will work. Don’t get the kind that are made of stretchy rubber/plastic. They fall apart and breakdown very quickly.
Do you use some sort of bonding agent to so the DG can harden after being compacted? I could walk on DG pathway at commercial landscape, I suppose they mix DG with something or cement.
There is a product called Technisoil which is a polymer binding agent. However I typically don’t use bonding agents because although it makes the surface harder, it’s difficult to make surface repairs.
Anyone have a recommendation for a reputable brand for steel edging?
How do I know if I need to install a layer of road base?
If you have expansive soil... for example soils with high clay content where movement can occur from wetting and drying. Also extreme sandy soil would benefit from a layer of road base.
@@RootedTheory I’m new to this so I’m not too sure what type of soil I have. It just looks like dirt to me. What are the consequences I face if I just excavate the ground, and apply DG without a gravel base?
@@RootedTheory to help my understanding, what is the purpose of adding a layer of road base? And is there a difference between road base and gravel base?
Not a problem. So road base is similar to gravel but it has crushed fines mixed in so it compacts really well. If you are installing DG over expensive soil and do not use the road base, it has greater risk of cracking. HOWEVER, It’s inevitable that DG will fracture a little just by the nature of it. The road base just helps prevent it somewhat. But not a cure-all. I’d say I only use it 10% of the time.
@@RootedTheory I see. I am planning on making a portion of my backyard be a DG patio. It won’t see much foot traffic. For this project, would it be okay to skip adding road base and just compact the dirt and add the DG over it?
Wondering what bender board product you would recommend. It seems the local big home improvement stores don't carry the style of composite board you show in the video.
Hey! So yes you are correct, it’s thicker edging is desirable you keep the DG in place. I have noticed that some Home Depot locations are starting to carry the better composite material, however landscape supply stores are still the best bet. Ewing is a national chain and would have products like this.
@@RootedTheory Great. Thank you for the information. I found Ewing online and was wondering if they had good edging. PS. Great video, organized and clear! Keep them coming. :)
Awesome! I hope you can get what you need there. And thank you for the kind words :))
This is a great video. What would you suggest to get a similar look but more conducive to a wet and cold climate
Thanks for watchin! So there’s not a whole lot out there that would be an equal substitute to DG, but you could look at a 3/8” crushed gravel. It doesn’t compact like DG but does tend to lock in tighter than more rounded pebbles.
If you compact it the level of the DG will go down I didn't see where you said to add more to get back up to desired grade (top of edging).
How about adding moisture to the Dg if it's too dry or not to use water if it's already full of moisture?
This is correct. Sometimes it’s desirable to add another layer after the first layer is compacted if you want to keep any of the edging from becoming exposed. And it’s often helpful to moisten the DG if it becomes dried out in the compaction process. Good points.
I already have DG in the area I want to cover with a layer of "new" DG?? Do I still need to compact the lower layer??
You shouldn’t have to. Just wet the existing layer so the new layer can ‘stick’ to it better. Then just compact the new layer.
Can this be used in the Monterey Peninsula, California? It rains about 12 inches per year.
Can you explain why this isn't recommended for wet climate?
You didn't mention about watering down the DG before tamping/compacting.
At 7:13 looked like plastic sheet.
Earlier you were using black landscape fabric.
Also how do you stop weeds from growing out of the dg? I have been fighting the weeds. And my dg is so dusty.
What went wrong?
Hi! That is just a different color weed fabric. Some come in light gray, some are darker in color. But definitely stay away from the plastic kind. In regards to weeds...it’s inevitable that weeds will happen, but if DG is compacted really well, you will get fewer of them. Also if weeds become a serious problem (it varies in different areas), you can try the liquid topical hardener. That could also help with your dust problem. It could also be that it was not compacted very well.
How do you install large pavers or step stones to the DG? I have some areas where I would like to add some large pavers but I can’t figure out if I place them on the DG before I compact it?
In general, pavers would go in before the DG. If you are using large pavers individually set with gaps between, these should go over a compacted sub base or cement base prior to DG. Compacting DG between the paver gaps can be done with a board cut to fit the size of the gap, then tamped to get the compaction. It definitely requires extra steps, but can’t look fantastic.
I really like the design of this yard. Can you tell us who the designer is?
Thank you!! That would be me 😎 You can check out more at dpenvironments.com
Is paver base suitable for DG for a pathway/patio instead of road base? My local bulk yard recommended it over road base. I'm in the Dallas area with clay soil. Have to say I already bought the paver base, so I'm crossing my fingers bc I don't want to have to return it.
I live in Northern Utah we get snow in the winter but it is pretty dry in the summer. If we didn't walk on it in the winter, would DG work for a garden pathway?
I do believe I have seen applications of DG in UT. My initial thought is that DG would probably do OK, it may just require some additional maintenance after cool season.
How do you manage drainage issues
I live in Upstate NY. Would a DG patio be ok with our weather? Snow in the winter but I won’t be shoveling this area. More concerned on the effects of rain.
So generally, the more rain, the more the DG might erode. My initial thought would be NY may be a little too wet. I would suggest to check local suppliers to see if they are stocking DG.
Can you mix hard clay and decomposed granite? Is that done?
I personally have never tried it, but it’s an interesting concept. It seems like the clay would act as a binder, however if it got saturated, it seems like it may create a mess. Definitely worth trying in a small area.