How to Build a Shed - How To Build Roof Trusses - Video 4 of 15
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- Опубликовано: 10 окт 2013
- Our 8x10 and 10x12 shed plans for the shed built in these videos can be found here: countrylifeprojects.com/shedp...
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In this video Henry teaches you how to build your own trusses using the shed floor for truss layout and assembly jig. Everything you need to know is included in our detailed instructions - some of the main parts covered in this DIY roof trusses tutorial are:
- How to measure and cut the truss rafters and bottom chord
- How to layout the trusses on your shed floor
- How to make the assembly jig for the trusses using the shed floor
- How measure, cut and install the plywood truss gussets
- How to assemble, glue and fasten the trusses
Need Inspiration? Checkout sheds built by our viewers using our videos and/or our plans at countrylifeprojects.com/categ...
View 15 all of our Shed Building videos on our RUclips Channel: / countrylifemedia
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#shed #gardenshed #diy #framing #carpentrytips #carpentry #woodworking #sheds #trusses
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Thanks. I used this as a basic guide to build myself a 10x16 shed and it turned out great! This was a genius way to lay out the trusses BY MYSELF. Built the whole shed with no help, which was really the biggest value in this series!
Never built a roof truss before today. This video was essential as a guide to a successful venture. Thank you!
Henry, I have reviewed dozens of truss designs and roof systems and I have to say that your system is the best. A simple design, and easy to build and install. Thank you for your videos.
Give this guy a medal. These tutorials are solid.
Got my rafters up. Only had to watch your video about 6 or 7 times lol. Thanks again for your help to us DIYers
Good stuff this guy. The best advice I got, for a small shed, was using angles instead of pitch. Later trim and finish work will be same angle, no recalculating. For a 7/12 pitch the degree is 30.26°. I like an even 30° better.
Just the cross-cut versus the rip-cut was worth the time... Thank you for sharing!
I watched the video and read all the comments. I agree with all the positive comments and appreciate your answers to questions. Thank you for a great video that is done very well, clear and no wasting of time. I’m about to build a shed so your videos are a great help. Thank you.
I wonder how many people have had a completely different outcome from IF they didnt see these videos. Cause i gaurantee my trusses would have been a failure if i didnt watch this. I did siding for 10 years and before that, i did do framing for 2 years but I've been learning the most from these videos
this is the easiest tutorial I have ever seen for trusses!! love it.
Thank you for the reminder about plywood grain orientation and framing wood “crown up”.
I have been racking my brain trying to figure out the best way to do trusses. THANK YOU! Made way easier.
Excellent series Henry. I will employ these instructions in my shed build. Experience counts.
Great set of videos and a real pleasure to see a tradesman that takes such care and pride in his work, instead of the culture of short cuts we have today. Thanks for the excellent advice
Wow!! Wish I had seen your videos before I did my shed. Excellent work and great teaching.
Danke für dein gutes Video und deine Arbeit 👍
Grüße aus Germany
You showed me exactly what I needed to know. Thank You Sir!
Thank you so much for doing this video. your an awesome teacher you don't leave anything out . thanks again
Thank you. You are a highly skilled teacher!
This is the tuturial perfect thanks brother 4 your time god bless
Damn.... thanks for your professional blessing for me. May God bless you.
Works so well. Love this!
I learned a lot from your videos, thank you.
Highly skilled and so easy to listen to with a very nice voice.
Attention to detail is great 👍
thanks for all the information
I know nothing about carpentry but 3 years ago I built my beautiful shed using country life projects plan. My shed is rock solid and better than the units they sell @ Home depot.
Great work! Thanks for the time to show us how to do this.
Your video was really helpful
I know this is an old video but I am getting ready to build a 16x24 workshop using rafters and ridge board. One thing I picked up from this is to use an angle instead of pitch. I am looking at at 7/12 pitch but will use a 30 deg angle instead to make everything down the road easier.
And thanks for the great video by the way
Great job!. Thanks a lot.
I don’t even want to guess at the amount of time I have spent watching shed videos....started my shed 4 days ago and have made a lot of mistakes. Currently hung up on rafters. WHERE WAS THIS CHANNEL 5 DAYS AGO?? Lol wish I had found you sooner.
Love this! Thank you, and for the little tips along the way. =)
Excellent!! Thank you so much.
Thank you for the video
Very useful. Thanks for the video.
I like this method better than any other,lol, yes the math calculations confuse me,man am glad i found this & i've build a 16' x 20' using this same method & it is awesome!
Awsome thank you very helpful 👍👍👍
Good info...easy to understand..thanks
NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for making this video. Building is very easy...joists, framing... Then there's the roof. This makes it so easy to figure it out. I like the idea of using simple angles instead of basing it all on pitch. Fantastic work!! Thank you again!
i am also thankful for this video he donez maid
Nice info thanks
VERY PROFESSIONAL - VERY CLEAR EXPLAINATION
This is the difference in a craftsman and 90% percent of the people who think their craftsman... great job Henry !
MAN! Step by step and easy to understand. Instead of just ASSUMING we all know a certain step, each one is explained. How to do it and why! OUTSTANDING! One thing though. Its a PROJECT (pronounced PRAW ject) not PROE ject! LOL. Just a little humor.
Yes, I know... I noticed that afterwards, but there was no way we were going to redo videos just because of that.
Love it viel grüsse aus Deutschland
That was a great how too. Straight to the point no waffling.
best vid ever
Thank you! Very informative. I hope to use this in the future!
NO PROBLEM..................
I am about to build another building in my yard, 12X24. I have already planned on building my trusses the same way you have here but I am going to. do mine without the bottom chord. Also will use 2x6 lumber so I can space them two feet apart I will also use rafter hangers on my walls to support the trusses. I am going to double the plywood gussets or one on each side of the truss. In my town, if you are building under 500 sf and not installing plumbing or electrical, no building permit is required. Only a drawing of the building for the zoning board to have on file.
Great video 100% . I think , and will watch over , and over again thank you for the time as well the great video Sir
Two things:At 9:00 mins into the tutorial, a message pops up and says they have an updated layout for cutting the chord gussets. I can only assume it tells you this: You can "nest" the angular cuts and butt the straight cuts. Saves time and material.Second.The truss fixture:"Stops" should always be on the same side. (bottom/bottom, top/top, left/left, right/right).This will make removing the finished part from the fixture much easier.That said, with the bottom chord "stops" being attached to the front face of the floor joist, the rafter "stops" should be on the inside of the rafters (or inside the triangle).Its a minor detail, but again will make removal of the completed trusses from the fixture much easier.Very great videos so far!
I've watched a lot of building video's. These are by far the best I've come across!! Very detailed! I have rudimentary skill in building yet I can follow along with your video's and have confidence that I'm getting everything right. Thanks so much for taking the time to make these and share with the rest of us!
Dana H. V I
Thank you for posting this, I am contemplating building a 12'x16' shed and the only thing I am not at all confident about is the roof trusses. Would your same 60 degree formula work on that? You made something that is complicated not look as scary.
Thanks.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you so much for commenting and your suggestions! I will do as recommended.
I am just slow i tried but couldn't follow. I do really appreciate the time you take to show
Hi Henry, great videos and instructions! My question is how did you come up with the top center part of the rafter? You showed how to get the bottom center of 43 1/2 I believe, but not the top part where it connects at the 30° mark...
Connie Johnson Hi Connie...If you are referring to the layout on the floor of the shed, that is easy. By the time you do the trusses, the floor should be done and square. Measure from the side of the shed with the full sheet of plywwod to center at the bottom, repeat at about 30 " along that side to center - then draw a line from the bottom edge to the second mark. Be sure to allow for the 1/8" +- that the plywood is inset from the edge of the floor joist header. The line can be drawn longer than 30" to be sure you can easily see it during rafter layout.
Great video Henry.....really appreciate it! What are your thoughts on nailing the gussets with a framing nailer vs. using construction screws? As I understand it, nails have much stronger shear strength than screws.
Hi Joel... yes nails have more shear strength, but in combination with glue, and the span of the trusses for this shed, screws are fine. In home construction or a garage, then yes, nails would be the better route - but I wanted to provide a video suited to the average DIY'er with a basic set of tools.
Thank you a lot for this excellent video series. I want to build a 12x16' shed. Can I use this same technique to build my roof trusses?
Hi Atlantic... I would not use the specific design for 12' trusses (and it also depends on snow loads etc). For a 12' wide shed, check into King Post truss design as it distributes the load better which is more important once you exceed 10' in width.
I am interested to know what the pitch actually is, btw. I wanted a very dramatic pitch on my shed but frankly I couldn’t work out how to figure it. I got a different method every time I would search for a how to. For example, rafters on an 8ft wide shed with a 9/12 pitch...I never could figure out and I feel very defeated. And dumb lol. So I just saw the that this is basically a 7/12 pitch. And I see why you did it this way. Very cool
I really like what do you have showed us about these trusses thank you Will this work on 10 and 12 foot sheds also
Yes, but it also depends on your climate - if you get heavy snow loads you may want to change up the plywood gussets to 1/2" ply and if really heavy snow loads, use them on both sides of the inner trusses.
First of all, great videos, I’ve already picked up a lot of useful information. My question is, I’m building a 16x28 storage shed and I wanting to use your truss method. It not sure on what width board I would need to use plus do I need to brace it differently as well.
Thanks
Trey
Hi SC... for a 16' span, the design of my trusses is not suitable. You would be best to order engineered trusses - these would be built for your local climate and should be fairly inexpensive to purchase. Check into this before you proceed.
@@Countrylifeprojects local place wants 200 dollars per truss !!! that's why I am here, for A 15 foot span, - excellent video.
If you want you could also put some scrap pieces inside the guide as well
This guy is amazing, he sure does know his business....but it's just a bit much for a beginner that's for sure
How would this jig system work if you wanted less pitch. Say 3/12. ? Great videos. Thanks so much for making them.
Hi Todd, yes, it will work for any layout. You just need to figure out the first truss layout and then do things the same way.
Great Videos and very clear instructions. If I go to 10 foot high walls, can I still use 2 x 4's or do I have to go to 2 x 6's, Doug
Hi Doug... glad you like the videos and yes you can go 10' high - although you may want to add horizontal blocking about half way up to keep studs from twisting (in some locations this may be required by code but that typically applies to houses and garages etc.).
Hi and thanks for good information my question is can I use your method 30 and 60 degree on a wider shed say 12’
Thanks again
Hi Thaer, You could use the angles, but this truss design is suitable up to 10' wide for moderate snow loads. For 12' wide a stronger design would be required. In most cases, just ordering pre-fab trusses designed for your area is best as they are engineered for the climate - and usually are very inexpensive.
what slope did you use?
+AnimeFinite Piano ... it is basically a 7/12 pitch. However, to make it easier for viewers, I opted for an exact 30 degrees.
What type of Star bit are you using for your construction screws? It looks very durable.
Your videos are excellent. I have a question I hope you v
can answer. What is the easiest way to make a jig for roof trusses if you have a concrete slab with j bolts for bottom plate ? Thank you.
Hi William.... sorry for the delay... been a busy few weeks. Very good question! If it was me, I would frame up one of the long walls, screw a few sheets of plywood to it (just enough screws to keep it square and not move at all) and then do the layout as noted in our truss video. When done, remove the plywood, finish the remaining walls and erect them as noted on our videos.
Country Life Projects & Living
Great video's Henry. Can you tell me how long it took to complete your shed start to finish. I'm worried about how much good weather we still have. Don't want to start something I can't complete.
John Domik Hi John... Well that could be a trick question. The shed in the videos took a month, but that is only due to all the video setup, shooting and working around bad weather. If you have good carpentry skills, good tools, and decent weather, under normal circumstances this shed should not take longer than 6 to 7 days. A professional should be able to do it in 4 days, 5 at the very most (a lot depends on your skill level and tools available to you).
Country Life Projects & Living Actually that's great. I fully understand the issues surrounding shooting the video. I have good skills, good tools, but at this time of year the weather will be a factor. I will go with the 6 to 7 days. Thanks for the feedback.
if you were going to put studs in there straight from the rafter down to the bottom chord would you just screw them in from the top and bottom (out side of 2x4)? (plus glue)
DominionofGod Yes, glue is not critical as these are mainly backing for the LP Panels but it never hurts if you have extra left over. Nails are okay too.
I like to lay out 1 truss on the floor like you have done. But once that is done, I build all the others on top of the first truss laid out on sawhorses. That way, I am not crawling around on my hands and knees. I also use galvanized nails- they are cheaper and do not split the wood as much as screws.
This is basically one of the questions I had. I know not everyone is going to have a framing nailer (and compressor)...but is there a real structural reason for using screws instead of nails? Or is it just because most DIYers wouldn't have a nailer?
A reason that overcomes the 5x (or more) price difference (and the huge time savings to set nails) between nails & screws?
You hit the nail on the head so to speak! That is exactly why we opted for screws as most DIY'ers will not own an air nailer setup, and it would be too costly to rent or buy for a small shed build. Structurally nails have more shear strength... and for house or garage construction I would highly recommend the use of nails. However, IMO, for a small shed, screws used as we did in the videos are fine.
If my shed is 10' wide, do I also use 10' rafters on the trusses? Also do I keep the exact same angles? Thanks in advance for your help!
Tony Jackson Hi Tony... once you lay out the trusses on the floor you can determine the length of the rafters and decide how much overhang you want as well. Just measure on the angle from the ridge(peak) to the side of the shed (edge of the floor) and then add the amount you want for overhang (soffit). You can use the same angles but remember that the wider the shed, the higher the ridge line of the roof (peak). I also recommend using 1/2" plywood gussets when building wider trusses than used in our videos/plans - e.g. 10' or 12' wide.
How would these change if you were considering adding gutters to the shed?
DominionofGod If you are referring to the ends of the rafters they would be cut at 30 degrees to match the peak... however, a lot changes in the way you finish the fascia boards, the roof sheathing etc. Beyond the scope of this shed.
Hi, thanks for the videos. Is there a reason why you don't use a ridge beam?
Hi Tom... A ridge beam is used when stick framing a roof. Although I am sure it can be built into the design of trusses, there is no effective way to add a ridge beam to the typical common truss without weakening the truss structure (e.g. cutting into the top gusset). Without a ridge beam, I personally feel it is important to use 1/2" sheathing on the roof as well - I have heard of builders using 3/8" but IMO that is asking for problems down the road.
awesome video! My 10x16 has a concrete floor. How would you do this on concrete?
Hi Mark... Great question. Although it would not be a perfect solution, the best I can come up with is to do a similar layout on the concrete (mark a few lines on the floor where the parts have to be and then place the pieces on the slab and assemble in the same way. The main difference is that nothing is held securely in place while you do this, and you would need to make sure the pieces are at the lines when you fasten the gussets to the rafters and bottom chord. Once you have one truss assembled and you are sure it is accurate, you could flip this over, attach small pieces of 2x4 to the outside edges of the truss and then use that truss to drop the pieces for the next trusses in to place - that should work. Pieces on the outside of the truss would work much in the same way as screwing pieces to the floor of the shed.
I am in the process of making more plans (and videos) and I will see if I can come up with a better solution... but, as winter is hitting us right now, that won't be until spring time. Take care and success with the remainder of your shed build.
Hello Henry, I love the videos you put together. thanks,
I am putting together a shed but the dimensions are a bit different from yours. I am putting together a 17x8 (space available). I am interested in the truss design you have here, since my shed is 8' wide as well I was wondering do you think the truss assembly will work for me?
Another question I have is load weight? My wife want to add fly tiles to the roof and not shingle, I believe shingles are 6 psf and the tiles were rated at 9 psf. My adjustment for this extra 3 psf is to have 16 in centres instead of 24. Is this a reasonable adjustment or am I just adding more weight to the roof for nothing?
Ralph Curtis Hi Ralph... SInce I am not an engineer and not familiar with the tiles you want to use, I cannot say with 100% certainty what is required and safe. However, it is a shed and I would think the trusses at 16" centers should be more than enough - but the final decision is up to you. Adding more trusses does add a small amount of weight, but strength also - I wouldn't worry about the extra weight of the trusses. The extra cost of lumber and extra time to build/install these extra trusses is very little, the benefit much greater..
Country Life Projects & Living Thanks Henry,
I made a few typo's up there, . . what I meant to say was "Clay Tiles". But I understand your point, thanks again.
I think I am going to use a majority of your construction methods as they are pretty sound and good advice.
I will let you know how the project turns out. I am starting on it next summer. I have a few home reno's I need to get through first . .
Ralph Curtis Hi Ralph... no prob... Send some pics when you get it done. What kind of home renos? I ask because we are thinking of doing a number of videos soon with tips and tricks for many renovation oriented projects.
Country Life Projects & Living If you did some additional video's on Renovation that would be great, I'd watch for sure . . . We are planning on renovation the kitchen, floors to doors, and the bathroom, tiles and sinks.
I am also planing on redoing 2 patio decks,which are 4x8 so it's not a big deal. I use to build decks with my dad on Cape Cod so I know my way around a tape measure, but it's been so long since I've done anything that refreshers are always a plus . .
The 30/60 method is the easiest/best method for simple structures.
The only thing I would do differently is to cut the complimentary 30 degree angle on the bottom end of the truss as mentioned by @Country Life Projects & Living when responding to @DominionofGod because where I live Eve Trough's (Gutters? ) for water/rain management is a must. This changes some of the fascia finishing measurements/details but nothing that can't be figured out.
Question Henry. Bought the plans and been using them to help build 12x12 shed. I had originally planned to not use a bottom chord, just the two rafters with bird mouth on top plate? Is the way you did it more stable? And preferred? Is 12 ft to long a span to not use a bottom chord? Thanks for the plans and videos
Hi Todd, well, the plans and truss design was intended for a maximum span of 10'. At 12' I would use the bottom chord - it ties the two rafter ends together increasing strength substantially - basically, if the rafter ends attached to the top plate cannot move with the bottom chord in place, the peak should not fail. But as noted prior, I designed the trusses for a max 10' span and each element of the truss is important.
Would these types of trusses work on a home that is 30' wide?
Los DinE Hi Los... These type of trusses used for the shed are not engineered and suitable for small sheds and outbuildings. However, when it comes to a home or garage where you likely will spend a lot of time, I personally feel it is best to used engineered trusses provided by a qualified manufacturer. There is a big difference between a shed and your home - I would want to make sure an investment like an home is built right using products designed to withstand climates and conditions for the area I live and to make sure everything complies with local building codes.
Only thing I'd do differently, is to use a preset drywall screw counter sink so as not over countersink screws and lose strength.....
That is not a bad idea... however, do keep in mind that gussets are glued too and they will likely never come apart.
is there a rule to how many trusses you need per floor dimention? floor joist you taught me are 16" on center how about trusses?
Hi Robert... 24" is typically the maximum spacing and okay for areas not subject to heavy snow loads. If you have heavy snow loads you may wish to go 16" centers.
With a 7/12 pitch there would be plenty of room for a loft. How would a loft be incorporated if there is a bottom chord spanning the width of the shed? Could your shed and shed plans be flexible to design without the use of a bottom chord?
You could leave out one of the bottom chords near the center which would provide a 4' opening.. or less if you like. You could reduce the width to increase floor area too. If I was going to use this area for storage I would use 2x6 bottom chords vs 2x4.
I think in response to a question in one of your other videos, you commented your truss design for a 10x12 shed would be different. Just curious what you would do differently with that slightly larger shed.
It depends on your climate - if you get heavy snow loads you may want to change up the plywood gussets to 1/2" ply and if really heavy snow loads, use them on both sides of the inner trusses.
I had a question on the trusses. Some people will leave out the bottom chord and just use rafters, using a birds mouth and seat method to tie them to the frame. What are your thoughts on that? I live up north, so snow is an issue, but looking at the pre-fab trusses at the store they also exclude the bottom chord. Appreciate any direction on this.
Steve MacNeil I personally would never leave out the bottom chord for this design of truss... it makes almost impossible for the truss to collapse (the rafters would have to pull apart at the base connection for the peak of the rafter to drop). In heavy snow load areas I would keep the bottom chord. The trusses you see in building stores are likely scissor trusses and are designed differently - engineered. I used the design on the shed for simplicity and ease of construction.
What is the pitch for this roof (rafters) ?
It is basically a 7/12 but we opted to go with 30 degrees to make it easy for everyone (setting angles on saws etc).
Say you wanted vertical fascia e.g. to install a gutter underneath it. Would it then make more sense to have the bottom chord protrude out the full width so the fascia attach to the ends of that bottom chord and the rafter sit on top of the bottom chord? So you'd have no angled cuts on the bottom chord and you'd have an angled cut on each end of the rafters. Would that make the trusses any weaker? (I can't help thinking it would actually be stronger as the meeting of the rafter and bottom chord would no longer be i the plane of possible movement if it did slip but maybe that's an illusion)
This would not be a good idea. With any truss design the weight of the roof must transfer down to the bearing walls. If you extended the bottom chord and placed the rafters on top at the ends, most of the weight of the roof is on the ends of the bottom chord and not on the top of the bearing walls. While this may not show or fail on a small shed, it could cause major issues on a larger structure. It is better to trim the ends of the rafters plumb if you intend to use gutters. If you look at engineered trusses, you will find that the design always transfers the load back to the bearing points in one way or another - subject to the type of truss and intended load it is designed for.
An exaggerated way to look at this is would be to consider what happens if you put a 2x4 on edge, secured it to the floor of the shed (at both ends)and let the end stick out a 3 feet... if standing on it above the floor at the edge... it would not sag, but if you stood on the very end it would sag - and this where most of the weight of the roof would be supported if you did this. If that lumber has any large knots, it would likely break.
All that said, it is a shed and whether you do this or not depends on how much overhang you plan to have. If you have less than 12" with little of no snow load, you probably would never have an issue - but I stress probably and not for sure.
I personally would not do it that way, but that does not mean it wouldn't work - if you do this, make sure the gussets (for bottom chord to rafter) are big enough to reach back to and above the bearing wall, and triangular in shape so the rafter and bottom chord are tied together - this would help transfer the load back to the bearing walls from the rafters.
I was thinking of virtually no overhang so might be okay, will think carefully though, many thanks for the advice!
Why are the bottom gussets sraight as opposed to triangular?
The gussets on the bottom only stop the rafters from pulling away from the bottom chord, so adding a tringular gusset that would hold the rafters and the bottom chord in a triangle shape is overkill in my opinion. Also, a single strip vs triangular is easier for most people and it does the job it needs too do.
Thanks, sorry for the stupid question.
Not a stupid question at all... it was very good one that I am sure many people might think about. When I seen it I thought, hmm good question. Let's put it this way, if a person wanted to use triangular gussets at this connection point, it would not be incorrect, just different than the way I did it.
Obviously different sized sheds would require different amounts of trusses; but how do you determine just how many to use?
Are they required to be specific lengths down the shed till all the space is used, or just a number chosen and spaced out accordingly?
For small sheds the spacing is typically 24" on center (have a look at Home Depot or Lowes sheds). However, this is subject to the weather conditions in your area. For example, in areas of very high snow load you may need 2x6 rafters/chords spaced 16" on center. This is question to ask you local building inspector (or local architect/engineer). Also, DIY trusses are good for small sheds, but IMO, anything over 10' wide (or if you are not comfortable making your own) and you should really consider buying engineered trusses (they are actually very affordable in most areas). Some lumber yards sell trusses for sheds and small outbuildings starting at 8' wide and roughly $25 to $30 each (price will vary by location).
Country Life Projects & Living
interesting, i was considering something around 11'
I just moved to harrisburg PA not that long ago. Not to far away from the appellation mountains. So im expecting the snow/rain fall to be a little bit higher then im accustomed to in NJ. So i was initially thinking trusses every 16 on center anyway. - If it did end up going that route, would it be beter to have them on the frame studs that are 16C or stagger them in-between studs?
👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️
You mentioned the bottom chord being the length of the shed base in front + 1/4 inch. Since most lumber is sold at a max (that ive seen) of 12 ft long, what would you do if the length was greater the 12ft? Or if the length was exactly 12ft. You cant rly get 12.25 pieces.
I do mention in one of the videos that the shed is 7' 9" x 9' 9" to maximize on use of materials, mostly in the finish stages. When doing so, you would not have this problem. Not sure where you live, but in North America, common lumber is typically available up to 16', sometimes 18' and 20' for some lumber (although you pay a premium for long lengths like that). But, if you had to, you would make the trusses exact and not allow the 1/4" - however, if you do, your wall framing needs to be exact, perfectly spaced (wall to wall). The 1/4" gives you a little play just in case something is out a hair.
Hello sir. I had bought the supplies before watching your video. I bought truss plates, I think that's what they're called. Will those work as well as the plywood gussets? Thank you for this great video
Hi Random Guy... Truss plates work with truss designs engineered for their use and placement. I did not use these as I have seen them installed incorrectly more often than correct (not seated properly, bent teeth or points as they might be called etc). If these are not installed correctly, they are not going to do what they should - and likely fail.
I decided to go plywood gussets with construction glue because it is much harder to go wrong. Very hard to install plywood gussets incorrectly and glue adds substantial strength.
So, I would say, unless you know the engineering specs and know how to install these plates properly I do not recommend using them.
@@Countrylifeprojects thank you sir for replying to me so fast. I'm no carpenter. Sort of DIY handyman, at least I think I'm handy lol. I'll be going with the gussets. Thank you again. P.s. great channel. I'm a subscriber for life now
Can I use the plans to build a 8 x 18 shed? Can I canopy one gable end to extend the shed from 18 to 24 feet? Code requires I be on a concrete slab-do I still build the floor?
Joseph Hudetz sounds like you would be changing things quiet a bit and I don't think the plans would be useful in that case (helpful maybe, but you would need to make changes yourself). If you need to build on slab, you would not build the floor and your 2x4 plate ideally would be pressure treated with a sill gasket. If you are building to code and the shed will be inspected, be sure to see if venting is required or not..
If I wanted to make the pitch a little steeper is it possible to use a different degree amount instead of 30 up top and 60 on bottom?
Hi Daniel... of course, but if you are using our plans it will change things up a lot. If you are not, then it should not be an issue. Just double check things as you go if following the videos - success with your shed build :-)
Excellent Videos! Thank you for taking the time to do these. I have a question. Will your 30/60 degree angle work on any size shed or just the size in the video? I am building a 14X24 shed with a 4 ft porch so there will be a wall at the 10 ft mark under the span.
+R Leblanc Glad you like the videos... in regards to 30/60 degree angles. You can use these on any size structure, it really depends on if you have height restrictions for sheds/outbuildings in your area. Just remember, these trusses were designed for 8' or 10' wide sheds. the wider you go, the stronger the trusses need to be - e.g. 2x6's vs 2x4', plywood gussets may need to be 1/2" or thicker and possibly applied to both sides of each truss - again, much depends on the span. Personally, IMO, if I was building anything over 12' wide I would consider purchasing engineered trusses - they can be surprisingly inexpensive and save on time and labour. In regards to the 10' span you indicate, do note that the bearing points on these trusses is where the rafters meet the bottom chords, they are not meant to be cantilevered out over a 10' wall with out a change in design - which can be a little tricky - you may want to buy engineered trusses where the stress/bearing points are on top of your bearing walls.
+Country Life Projects & Living Thanks for the info!!
It actually depends what type of plywood you used. In your case, u have just 3 layers plywood, that one is not prone for strength. If you using plywood with more layers like 7-9, you still can follow same rule, but that plywood will pass your test in any direction and thereby structurally more solid. I would recommend use it for structural things like gussets.
Could you use metal gussets?
Hi Larry, you can, but in my experience, few people manage to get these forced into the surface of the truss parts properly and this leaves room for a structural fail... it is the main reason I decided to stay with plywood gussets.
I've seen some sheds that are 10' or wider without the bottom chord. Is this to save material? I'm building a 10x18 shed, and wondering if there is a way to bypass the bottom chord, as it a seems I would have to purchase some 12' 2x4s in order to cut down to the correct size.
Hi Corbett, personally I would use the bottom chord, it adds a substantial amount of strength to the trusses. With the design of the trusses I made in the videos, for a 10' wide shed, 10' 2x4's is all you should need. If you are stick framing a shed roof with a ridge beam that spans the length of the shed, then you can eliminate the bottom chord - but not suggested with the design I provided, especially if snow loads need to be considered.