I've tried this out at one point (minus the epoxy) and one thing that might be worth considering is flattening/smoothing the cut edges with a bone tool, or some tool that will not pull any ink off the top surface of your card. As I was working on one of my own 3D cards, I noticed that the cut edges rise up just a tiny bit, and while it's not a huge deal, I would definitely notice it when looking at the foil version at different angles. Considering the amount of time you spend on a project like this, I personally felt smoothing out the edges to be worth the extra 15 minutes of work (since it only takes 15-30 seconds per layer to smooth out the edges). Just something to consider when working on your own projects. Thanks for the guide, and best of luck all!
As for the epoxy resin bubbles, the reason the heat from the lighter actually assists with removing the bubbles is the fact that the flame is sucking some of the surrounding oxygen up creating a very minor vacuum like effect allowing the bubbles to more easily rise to the surface due to the difference in air pressure around the resin. If your willing to put in the extra work and you are struggling to remove these bubbles, its fairly easy to create a homemade vacuum chamber to handle this process. Simply take a clear bowl or Tupperware container that you can see through and placing it over your resin then sealing the container to the surface that it is set upon with tape to create a "mostly" air tight seal. Then poke a small hole in the top of the container and insert a bicycle or ball pump into the hole and seal it as well the best that you can. The seals don't have to be 100% perfect but they need to be at least decent enough to keep air from rushing in at the same rate or faster than you can pump it out with the air pump. After this set up, just pump the air pump until the bubbles rise to the surface and pop. This works very very well for stubborn bubbles and can also help provide a very smooth and level surface on the epoxy that was poured. Anyways sorry for the long comment just figured it was relevant lol.
+GG Degree I started playing in Avacyn Restored and my first standard deck was mono white angels. Emancipation angel was my first favorite card art, followed by Nivix Cyclops and Golden Hind.
I made a Nyx-Fleece Ram (her favourite card) abacus for my friend to use with her Oloro deck. I had to use 3 rows of beads since her life sometimes goes into multiples of hundreds. She absolutely loved it and this video was instrumental in showing me how to do it!
Did you happen to try any substitutes for the epoxy? Do you think I could achieve the same effect with gloss mod podge or a high gloss clear coat spray paint?
I love doing these! I have made ones of Tarpan, bird token (return to ravnica), unwanted pirate token promos from FNMs, and a myr token with waste background.
I like the Idea but I don't know if I could bring myself to cut up even a common for this. Plus My coordination is terrible so I doubt I have the skill for this
I think a 3d foil shadow slice would be really cool. I have a normal foil, and it's one of my favorite foils I have ever owned. The only problem would be the smoky glow trailing the blades.
I know its a few years old but just for future reference, hold the torch a foot away and slow bring it in until the bubbles pop, and slowly move it across the card. A heat gun also works, and a good way to limit the bubbles is pouring it in a long, thin stream.
@GG Degree Sorry, i may just not got that right, how many Foils of "Emancipation Angel" have you used now, and how many normal commons have you used additionally. So u did like 1 Foil and then 3 cutted Commons or how excatly have you glued all those cards together, in what order?^^ Sorry for my bad english, tho Greetings from Germany
I would guess that I used 4-5 foils. The amount of commons that you put between each foil layer depends on how "far away" you want the layer to look. So if you put 8 commons between the background and the next layer, the sky would seem far away. I hope that helps!
Kinda skipped the part where you put in the actual layers though... did you just divide the spacers evenly between how many layers you had? What do you do with floating pieces?
You put spacers between the layers as many as you need to create the depth you want between them. Mostly I try to cut in such a way as to have each layer connected to the frame of the art. If it's "floaty", then you can glue it to the layers beneath, or glue a few tiny layers cut from cards behind the piece you want to "float".
Awesome work! There are abacus that are small that can be found. I bet it would be even sturdier if you glue one in with epoxy! I have one I use for mtg, all steel construction. This is actually kind of common in my childhood, but only because asian kids played a lot of magic.
how many angel cards for one 3D card and how many cards between them is it all angel cards first or one then couple normal cards? cant tell becauce the high speed and you didnt mention it.
Well, I know what I am going to do tomorrow. I know you said to use a foil but I love the artwork to the old school serra angel. Could you put a link to the art sealant you recommend for non foil cards?
I think any matte finish should do the job, your local game store might have some in stock for people painting models. For super serious people though, I have heard down the grapevine that this is the best: www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Enamel-3oz-Dullcote-Lacquer/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470712268&sr=8-1&keywords=testors+sealer
@GGDegree I would really like to use the wheel for life counters like you used on the other counter. Is there any way you could tell us what they are so we can make those? I promise I won't use Magic Cards for mine. =D
The wheels were done by cutting two windows in the top layer, with three layers underneath that cut out to hold wheels that extended to each edge. A powerdrill with a very thin bit went through the center of each to give each wheel an axis. The wheels were made out of foil Magic cards glued together and the numbers printed on them. But they weren't tough enough for me, I'd prefer if they were made out of plastic or something. I can't guide you that much on it, but good luck if that's what you're determined to make :)
Is there any sort of treatment you can do to get rid of that stacked-card-look around the outside? I really liked everything else about it, but that pile-look didn't appeal to me. If I were to make one, I'd rather have it look like it was cast out of plastic, with a solid, smooth border, rather like a high value poker chip, instead.
You could make a mold with dimensions slightly larger than the glued together counter you produce. Then pour a thin layer on the bottom of the mold, let it dry flat. Pour a little epoxy down, push your counter into it (to wet the back), then fill the mold with epoxy to the height of 1mm above the top edge. As for how to make a mold, there are tons of tutorials on that sort of thing here on RUclips. Best of luck :)
I know this is late, but perhaps somebody else will find this too. I'd suggest not darkening the edges on the outside until after it's all glued, then use a fine grain sand paper to even it up. You probably shouldn't use anything mechanical, just do it by hand since a machine can cause it to go too fast. Then you can decide if you want to darken it once it's all uniform. Of course, I don't know if this'll be the best way, but if you don't go the epoxy route, this might work?
This looks incredible. And though I'm not artsy at all, I want to try this out. Are you using only one spacer layer between each layer? Does the 3-D effect become better if you use more, or will it look more disjointed?
Hey, I may have missed it, but I couldn't seem to find an explanation of when to add layers of the art cut out, and how many layers in total you recommend. Or do you just feel it out?
Do you think this would work well with the oversize foils? I want to do this with Mayael the Anima. The only problem being the layers wouldn't touch the sides so I would need to do "floating" layers...this will need some thought.
Should work just as well with oversized cards as with normal cards, really. And the bigger size makes fitting these floating layers easier. As long as you fit the layers together precisely, and seal it properly, it should work just fine :)
+xxhellspawnedxx it didn't go so well...I put it up to keep it away from my kids while the epoxy set, but I didn't check to make sure it was a level surface! It still looks pretty, but the epoxy spilled into the abacus and glued the beads into place! Oh well, I have now finished two others, one Oros, and one Nahiri! They came out great, but my technique still needs refining.
That's a really standard abacus setup. The top bar is the 10s place, the bottom bar is the 1s place. So if you have 3 beads on the top bar and 6 on the bottom bar, your current life total is 36! :)
How do you get the 3d panel parts to stay floating on the right layers once you pour in the resin, especially if they are not connected to the edge of the card?
If they're connected to the edge of the card, they basically do not move. You can glue unconnected pieces to the layers below them. If you want something to just be floating in "mid-air", such as the shards of glass in "Howlpack Alpha", you can pour resin halfway deep, glue down the pieces on the resin surface, and then do a second pour to the top level :)
Sweet! Just a couple questions. First, I don't play the game that much, but I'm sure some people will be curious. Do you know if foils in the pokemon tcg work the same as mtg foils? Second, I just have a concern about very thin layers of cardboard just falling off when cutting or gluing together. For example, in the flying crane technique example you gave, the monk in the front has very thin strands of braided hair, and I was wondering of some tricks to keep those together when gluing or cutting. Lastly, could you leave some links to the supplies you used in this video? I think it would help out a lot of people looking to start making these, even though you gave an exact picture of the product... that's not the point! Awesome video though, looking forward to making some of these of my own :)
To my knowledge, they are the same, yes. As for thin pieces like the braids in FCT, just be careful when handling them, pretty much. You have to be extremely delicate when cutting, but I reckon it's doable. As long as you don't try to lift the braid layers by the hair, you should be fine.
Supplies listed in the description for you :p I have no idea about Pokemon cards, the test I would try first is to see if they glued together well, that's the main difference I could imagine. For really thin things like hair, just make sure you cut all the way through the card at every point along the hair. It only tends to tear if you haven't cut through all the way. Good luck :)
After thoroughly watching the video, I'm confused on the fact of the layers. When and how do I put the actually card itself to result in a 3d image? How do you make one cut look like its farther away than the other?
I reckon so. It has a good amount of depth to it, both in the character and the background. The arm might be hard to get to look completely right though, will probably require a good 2-3 layers, seeing as how it's pointed nearly straight out from him, at the onlooker.
How are you supposed to use it in a game tho? A half-inch thick card does kinda make for a marked card in your deck. Or do you just put a proxy in the library and replace it with the 3d one once casted? xD It would make an awesome commander in EDH tho.
About three. More if you want more depth like in Gift of Orzhova, Sometimes zero if you're just pulling armor above a subject's body. It's really up to your own eye :)
I have a foil PROMO of prophet of kruphix, she has alot of layers that are well defined and I feel like doing it would look kool but....its a promo AND a foil so buying multiple copies just to make a cool looking 3d card that isnt even leagal in tournament play will get expensive, so maybe I could make proxys? and make those proxys into the cool looking card, but how do I find foil proxys that the picture looks legit, can someone please help hook me up?
It got banned in commander so it's jumped down in price actually! You could buy another 5 copies for 10 bucks on SCG and make your counter :) Proxies aren't cheap because they take time and time is money. I'd probably just fork over a little cash :p If they were Tarmogoyfs, you would definitely want some foil proxies though xD
Plan out your layers like I did in the video to figure out :p Then add two to that number in case you cut one up badly. If you must have a number, I think most cards would be fine with 8, which includes the couple extra.
Why are there 14 balls if it is supposed to be your life counter I.e 20. -I love the art besides the fact the card can only be used as a commander & can not be used in a regular deck.
The top bar is the 10's place, and the bottom bar is the 1s place. So if you've got 3 on the left on the top bar and 6 on the bottom bar, your current life total is 36 :) This abacus counter goes up to 59 with this design :)
Blighted Agent would look cool but would be rather obvious since it is actually used. Although a bit hard to design correctly, Caress of Phyrexia would also be a good choice while staying in style. Phyresis, Scourge Servant and Tainted Strike are also really cool designs in the Infect theme that would look good.
what is an alter? what do I do with it? what am I going to do with those metalic balls inside of the textbox? like seriously I have no clue what you were just showing here.. XD
Oooh good question. The beads on the top bar are the 10s place and the beads on the lower bar are the 1s place. Therefore this particular life counter can count your life total during games from 0-59 life :)
An alter is an artistic modification of a Magic card. Many alters just change the art to something new, but this one creates a life counter from a set of cards. GG Degree does some alters now and again, and his videos on it are very imformative.
in b4 3d black lotus using mox opals and volcanic islands as spacers
why not Underground seas instead?
I've tried this out at one point (minus the epoxy) and one thing that might be worth considering is flattening/smoothing the cut edges with a bone tool, or some tool that will not pull any ink off the top surface of your card.
As I was working on one of my own 3D cards, I noticed that the cut edges rise up just a tiny bit, and while it's not a huge deal, I would definitely notice it when looking at the foil version at different angles. Considering the amount of time you spend on a project like this, I personally felt smoothing out the edges to be worth the extra 15 minutes of work (since it only takes 15-30 seconds per layer to smooth out the edges). Just something to consider when working on your own projects. Thanks for the guide, and best of luck all!
A crochet hook does the trick wonderfully too
As for the epoxy resin bubbles, the reason the heat from the lighter actually assists with removing the bubbles is the fact that the flame is sucking some of the surrounding oxygen up creating a very minor vacuum like effect allowing the bubbles to more easily rise to the surface due to the difference in air pressure around the resin. If your willing to put in the extra work and you are struggling to remove these bubbles, its fairly easy to create a homemade vacuum chamber to handle this process. Simply take a clear bowl or Tupperware container that you can see through and placing it over your resin then sealing the container to the surface that it is set upon with tape to create a "mostly" air tight seal. Then poke a small hole in the top of the container and insert a bicycle or ball pump into the hole and seal it as well the best that you can. The seals don't have to be 100% perfect but they need to be at least decent enough to keep air from rushing in at the same rate or faster than you can pump it out with the air pump. After this set up, just pump the air pump until the bubbles rise to the surface and pop. This works very very well for stubborn bubbles and can also help provide a very smooth and level surface on the epoxy that was poured. Anyways sorry for the long comment just figured it was relevant lol.
EMANCIPATION ANGEL IS LITERALLY MY FAVORITE CARD ART EVER, OH MY GOD. THANK YOU BLESS YOU I AM IN LOVE.
Iridescent Angel is pretty great too :) Hope you make one to enjoy using in your games :D
+GG Degree I started playing in Avacyn Restored and my first standard deck was mono white angels. Emancipation angel was my first favorite card art, followed by Nivix Cyclops and Golden Hind.
i really want to do this for my commander that would make it the envy of my playgroup
I am with you on that decision :)
+GG Degree yay you responded. i am on a roll this week.
+GG Degree Did you intentionally make a triforce out of the 3 warnings
+J4min 64 rpg 2 things 1 yes it would be really hard to believe that was a mistake and 2 why did you reply on the comment you can just comment
+James Darkos I don't know
Oh boy - Time to buy some foil Snapcasters!
I made a Nyx-Fleece Ram (her favourite card) abacus for my friend to use with her Oloro deck. I had to use 3 rows of beads since her life sometimes goes into multiples of hundreds.
She absolutely loved it and this video was instrumental in showing me how to do it!
I burned my Slither Blade and glued my house down. I blame you.
sweet vid i was thinking on creating some 3 d commanders and was unsure of how to go about it
Very pleased to see you doing more artsy stuff. Well done mate.
I saw a guy at the first FNM I went to with one of those and thought it was pretty cool. Thanks for sharing how to do it.
With the epoxy? Was it a Mayor of Avabruck?
Extremely well made tutorial with wonderful results. Thank you.
Hey, glad you liked it! :D
It's the triforce of danger.
The first time in my life I see a reason to buy/print counterfeit-cards. I want this with a black lotus :-D
Did you happen to try any substitutes for the epoxy? Do you think I could achieve the same effect with gloss mod podge or a high gloss clear coat spray paint?
Do you use just one foil for the counter or do you need mutiple of the same foil to create the layers?
I love doing these! I have made ones of Tarpan, bird token (return to ravnica), unwanted pirate token promos from FNMs, and a myr token with waste background.
Very cool, Luc. Nicely done.
Great guide! I really want to do this now that I can see just how easy it can be. Keep up the artistic vids.
Will do :D
I like the Idea but I don't know if I could bring myself to cut up even a common for this.
Plus My coordination is terrible so I doubt I have the skill for this
tokens bro
I've wanted to make one of these life counters for a while!!! Thanks!!!
No problem :D
More art stuff like this man, I reeeeeaaallyyy liked this vid!
Glad you enjoyed it :D
I think a 3d foil shadow slice would be really cool. I have a normal foil, and it's one of my favorite foils I have ever owned. The only problem would be the smoky glow trailing the blades.
Actually showing the part with the torch would have been nice, but over all very good video. 8/10 Definitely going to give it a try
I know its a few years old but just for future reference, hold the torch a foot away and slow bring it in until the bubbles pop, and slowly move it across the card. A heat gun also works, and a good way to limit the bubbles is pouring it in a long, thin stream.
Ahhhhhh man!!!! Id love vampire nighthawk with this!!!
Great tutorial! I laughed so hard when I saw the Triforce ha ha ha! I love angels too. :)
@GG Degree
Sorry, i may just not got that right, how many Foils of "Emancipation Angel" have you used now, and how many normal commons have you used additionally.
So u did like 1 Foil and then 3 cutted Commons or how excatly have you glued all those cards together, in what order?^^
Sorry for my bad english, tho
Greetings from Germany
I would guess that I used 4-5 foils.
The amount of commons that you put between each foil layer depends on how "far away" you want the layer to look. So if you put 8 commons between the background and the next layer, the sky would seem far away.
I hope that helps!
This was a super cool video, I am totally going to do this.
Nice! Glad it looks fun :D
beautiful!!! and so creative!! thanks for sharing!
Doing a project for brent hollowell's froghemoth, I want to make it a shadow box with maybe 20 cards worth of layers, would that interest you? It's a
I cant see it in the video so you cut 3 angels up and layer the wing for example 2 or three times?
Kinda skipped the part where you put in the actual layers though... did you just divide the spacers evenly between how many layers you had? What do you do with floating pieces?
You put spacers between the layers as many as you need to create the depth you want between them. Mostly I try to cut in such a way as to have each layer connected to the frame of the art. If it's "floaty", then you can glue it to the layers beneath, or glue a few tiny layers cut from cards behind the piece you want to "float".
Cool, thanks!
Awesome work!
There are abacus that are small that can be found. I bet it would be even sturdier if you glue one in with epoxy! I have one I use for mtg, all steel construction. This is actually kind of common in my childhood, but only because asian kids played a lot of magic.
I think I'm gonna make a dominator drone one. It may not be the best choice, but I have plenty of them.
What are the rings you use for the abacus?
I approve of 3D'ing the Power 9 !!!
good luck finding a foil black lotus :D
how many angel cards for one 3D card and how many cards between them is it all angel cards first or one then couple normal cards? cant tell becauce the high speed and you didnt mention it.
that's pretty sweet. I'll try this... someday. Maybe.
so did you?
was your favorite set avacyn restored? just asking because that set had the most angels
I feel like it would be awesome to do this with my commander because obviously it can't go in a deck but it could be a commander.
I like your thinking!
What did you use to cut the nails?
I have 3 foil Xathrid Necromancers and a foil Swamp!
please do this to them!
are there any other choices other than an abacus counter for the life counter portion of the card?
Well, I know what I am going to do tomorrow. I know you said to use a foil but I love the artwork to the old school serra angel. Could you put a link to the art sealant you recommend for non foil cards?
I think any matte finish should do the job, your local game store might have some in stock for people painting models. For super serious people though, I have heard down the grapevine that this is the best: www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Enamel-3oz-Dullcote-Lacquer/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470712268&sr=8-1&keywords=testors+sealer
@GGDegree I would really like to use the wheel for life counters like you used on the other counter. Is there any way you could tell us what they are so we can make those? I promise I won't use Magic Cards for mine. =D
The wheels were done by cutting two windows in the top layer, with three layers underneath that cut out to hold wheels that extended to each edge. A powerdrill with a very thin bit went through the center of each to give each wheel an axis. The wheels were made out of foil Magic cards glued together and the numbers printed on them. But they weren't tough enough for me, I'd prefer if they were made out of plastic or something. I can't guide you that much on it, but good luck if that's what you're determined to make :)
i want to do this with Ormendahl, profane prince... but that would be a little too expensive considering how many times id fail
Wouldn't mind trying this with Suture Priest
Those are very sturdy rods.
Is there any sort of treatment you can do to get rid of that stacked-card-look around the outside? I really liked everything else about it, but that pile-look didn't appeal to me. If I were to make one, I'd rather have it look like it was cast out of plastic, with a solid, smooth border, rather like a high value poker chip, instead.
You could make a mold with dimensions slightly larger than the glued together counter you produce. Then pour a thin layer on the bottom of the mold, let it dry flat. Pour a little epoxy down, push your counter into it (to wet the back), then fill the mold with epoxy to the height of 1mm above the top edge.
As for how to make a mold, there are tons of tutorials on that sort of thing here on RUclips. Best of luck :)
I know this is late, but perhaps somebody else will find this too.
I'd suggest not darkening the edges on the outside until after it's all glued, then use a fine grain sand paper to even it up. You probably shouldn't use anything mechanical, just do it by hand since a machine can cause it to go too fast. Then you can decide if you want to darken it once it's all uniform. Of course, I don't know if this'll be the best way, but if you don't go the epoxy route, this might work?
How many cards (spacers) do you have between each of the foil cards you have cut out?
do you have any suggstions for easy 3d counters to make and practice with? like any specific land that is simple in its art?
magiccards.info/ori/en/265.html
magiccards.info/m15/en/262.html - this one has been printed in so many sets.
What's the abacus for?
Finally! It's here!!!
This looks incredible. And though I'm not artsy at all, I want to try this out.
Are you using only one spacer layer between each layer? Does the 3-D effect become better if you use more, or will it look more disjointed?
You can use however many spacers you want. The more you use, the farther back it will look so use more spacers for things farther back.
That looks awesome
Awesome Video
How do you space the layers for the art to get a better 3d effect?
he used the spacers that he made
Hey, I may have missed it, but I couldn't seem to find an explanation of when to add layers of the art cut out, and how many layers in total you recommend. Or do you just feel it out?
Feel it out :)
Their are other videos about making custom counters. I made one some time ago. It takes some time.
Do you think this would work well with the oversize foils? I want to do this with Mayael the Anima. The only problem being the layers wouldn't touch the sides so I would need to do "floating" layers...this will need some thought.
Should work just as well with oversized cards as with normal cards, really. And the bigger size makes fitting these floating layers easier. As long as you fit the layers together precisely, and seal it properly, it should work just fine :)
+xxhellspawnedxx it didn't go so well...I put it up to keep it away from my kids while the epoxy set, but I didn't check to make sure it was a level surface! It still looks pretty, but the epoxy spilled into the abacus and glued the beads into place! Oh well, I have now finished two others, one Oros, and one Nahiri! They came out great, but my technique still needs refining.
NICE! I'm always happy when people watch a video and say "hey I can do that!" Can I see the results? :)
+GG Degree I don't think I know how to from my iPad, but if you are on Facebook I posted it to a group called 3D card alter
I just have a question - sorry if it was already answered - how do you use that abacus to count your life? With the 5 top 9 bot setup.
That's a really standard abacus setup. The top bar is the 10s place, the bottom bar is the 1s place. So if you have 3 beads on the top bar and 6 on the bottom bar, your current life total is 36! :)
+GG Degree ohhh I see. thanks.
NP :D
How many spacers do you put in-between the art cut-out?
1-4 depending what looks good to you :)
i made one !! everyone in my group wants one now xD
How do you get the 3d panel parts to stay floating on the right layers once you pour in the resin, especially if they are not connected to the edge of the card?
If they're connected to the edge of the card, they basically do not move. You can glue unconnected pieces to the layers below them. If you want something to just be floating in "mid-air", such as the shards of glass in "Howlpack Alpha", you can pour resin halfway deep, glue down the pieces on the resin surface, and then do a second pour to the top level :)
Thanks! Time to make a providence Life Counter.
So did you completely fill in the 3D window area with epoxy or just coat it like you did the sides?
It's filled in.
GG Degree Thanks.
This is awesome. Thank you.
For even better results, exclude foreground items from being in the background.
Excellent tutorial, I was wondering though, did you use one copy of the angel for each layer or multiple?
One copy per layer
I just went and watched a video on how to work an abacus just so i could learn how this card would work. Abacuses, abacai? are cool.
Sweet! Just a couple questions. First, I don't play the game that much, but I'm sure some people will be curious. Do you know if foils in the pokemon tcg work the same as mtg foils? Second, I just have a concern about very thin layers of cardboard just falling off when cutting or gluing together. For example, in the flying crane technique example you gave, the monk in the front has very thin strands of braided hair, and I was wondering of some tricks to keep those together when gluing or cutting. Lastly, could you leave some links to the supplies you used in this video? I think it would help out a lot of people looking to start making these, even though you gave an exact picture of the product... that's not the point!
Awesome video though, looking forward to making some of these of my own :)
To my knowledge, they are the same, yes.
As for thin pieces like the braids in FCT, just be careful when handling them, pretty much. You have to be extremely delicate when cutting, but I reckon it's doable. As long as you don't try to lift the braid layers by the hair, you should be fine.
Supplies listed in the description for you :p I have no idea about Pokemon cards, the test I would try first is to see if they glued together well, that's the main difference I could imagine. For really thin things like hair, just make sure you cut all the way through the card at every point along the hair. It only tends to tear if you haven't cut through all the way. Good luck :)
After thoroughly watching the video, I'm confused on the fact of the layers. When and how do I put the actually card itself to result in a 3d image? How do you make one cut look like its farther away than the other?
after thinking, does this mean you need multiple of one card?
That is indeed what it means :)
GG Degree how many copies? say for a card like dishonored ancestor or seeker of the way?
when doing altered art, do you somehow seal your work after the painting?
Would Odric, Lunarch Marshal make a good one?
I reckon so. It has a good amount of depth to it, both in the character and the background. The arm might be hard to get to look completely right though, will probably require a good 2-3 layers, seeing as how it's pointed nearly straight out from him, at the onlooker.
What about Thalia, Heretic Cathar?
The type of art for this is, if I remember properly from school, Paper-Cut Relief.
GG Degree How make the 3d effect (animation 2:53 -2:57) in the video?
Let's get a new video up!
So what is the abacus for?
Counting your life.
Sturdy Rod ;)
How are you supposed to use it in a game tho? A half-inch thick card does kinda make for a marked card in your deck. Or do you just put a proxy in the library and replace it with the 3d one once casted? xD
It would make an awesome commander in EDH tho.
You don't play it, you use it to count your life
How many spacers do you use between each layer?
About three. More if you want more depth like in Gift of Orzhova, Sometimes zero if you're just pulling armor above a subject's body. It's really up to your own eye :)
Thank you so much :) I have always drooled over your 3D alter you have teased in some older videos and now i can finally make one
*****
I know this video was a LONG time in coming :p
uuh metric system. im positively surprised. i like you :')
I have a foil PROMO of prophet of kruphix, she has alot of layers that are well defined and I feel like doing it would look kool but....its a promo AND a foil so buying multiple copies just to make a cool looking 3d card that isnt even leagal in tournament play will get expensive, so maybe I could make proxys? and make those proxys into the cool looking card, but how do I find foil proxys that the picture looks legit, can someone please help hook me up?
It got banned in commander so it's jumped down in price actually! You could buy another 5 copies for 10 bucks on SCG and make your counter :) Proxies aren't cheap because they take time and time is money. I'd probably just fork over a little cash :p If they were Tarmogoyfs, you would definitely want some foil proxies though xD
how many copies of the card do you think we would need to buy if we want to create one of these
Plan out your layers like I did in the video to figure out :p Then add two to that number in case you cut one up badly. If you must have a number, I think most cards would be fine with 8, which includes the couple extra.
oh, thanks for the help
I'm confused... How many of a foil will I need?
Depends how many layers you plan out :p
I want to do this with my commander but it's multi coloured so what land should I use?
There are multicolored lands :)
+GG Degree what are they called?
Mason Berg
What colors is your commander?
+GG Degree narset enlightened master
Use the art from a Mystic Monastery then :)
How long did it take your channel to get off the ground
will this work on the oversized commander cards?
if you have like 40 lyingv around..,
+Magic Man sadly I do....
so badass
I love it I love it!!!
Glad you like it too :D
awesome !!
how many copies of a card would you suggest?
For your first try, just use ten. Then you can mess up a bit without stress. Just don't do it for your first time with an expensive card! :)
Thanks for the speedy response.
Time to go find some foil seekers now...
Why are there 14 balls if it is supposed to be your life counter I.e 20.
-I love the art besides the fact the card can only be used as a commander & can not be used in a regular deck.
The top bar is the 10's place, and the bottom bar is the 1s place. So if you've got 3 on the left on the top bar and 6 on the bottom bar, your current life total is 36 :) This abacus counter goes up to 59 with this design :)
the tri force of danger
i play infect and what art would you suggest for the alter?
Blighted Agent would look cool but would be rather obvious since it is actually used. Although a bit hard to design correctly, Caress of Phyrexia would also be a good choice while staying in style. Phyresis, Scourge Servant and Tainted Strike are also really cool designs in the Infect theme that would look good.
Thanks I will check them out... I was also thinking ghostly nourisher
Why, Infected Vermin, of course!
+James Miller I think that would be a hard card to make into 3d...but thanks
Bronty 321 Possibly, but I think I'm going to try it. That rat looks awesome! And the tail coming out at you would be cool.
i want someone to do this with tarmogoyf.
You could get some proxies and tell everyone they are real. Everyone will think you're crazy, but thats fun.
Love it :)
I bet you could do this much easier with an inkjet printer and cricut machine.
these look great. you should sell them.
GG Degree , The best thing since bob ross
ty :D
I found it a little hard to follow, you didn't really explain how you separated the seperate layers you cut out.
what is an alter? what do I do with it? what am I going to do with those metalic balls inside of the textbox? like seriously I have no clue what you were just showing here.. XD
Oooh good question. The beads on the top bar are the 10s place and the beads on the lower bar are the 1s place. Therefore this particular life counter can count your life total during games from 0-59 life :)
An alter is an artistic modification of a Magic card. Many alters just change the art to something new, but this one creates a life counter from a set of cards. GG Degree does some alters now and again, and his videos on it are very imformative.
oooooh, its a live counter. haha. allrighty.