Is D-mode more efficient than B-mode?
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
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I'm 21 and don't even have my drivers license (yet). But I'm still watching all your video's, I want my first car to be an electric one partly because of you. Thank you for entertaining and educating us Bjørn!
I'd advice you to buy a cheap car for your first one because everyone will crash their car sooner or later. Probably sooner. Little nicks or something bigger but it will happen. Better have some practice on a car you won't be grieving over.
@@K1989L well ofcourse I won't buy a new car, maybe I'll even buy a second hand plug in hybrid simply becouse they're more affordable. But eh... I don't think there are a lot of young people that damage their car here in The Netherlands, maybe the reason for that is the fact that you need to take many many driving lessons before you can even get your driving license...
@@K1989L I went straight for a €26,000 car. Have now had five cars, have been driving for 7 years and around 15,000km per year and haven’t had any damage, not even an alloy scuff.
Enjoy your electric car Tom, I’m waiting on delivery for an ID3 and can’t wait, my first EV!
For me it's very simple, use D always for higways and engage in B when you need to slow down like getting out of the highway or a sudden stop ahead, same way you will downshift a manual car. This way is more comfortable to drive without pressing your foot to the throttle all the time. In the City use B to handle the traffic stop/go the same way you will do with a manual engaged in a lower gear. Don't forget the energy you get back slowing down with B will always be less than the energy you will consume to get back to your original speed so try to cruise more and brake only when neccesary.
I use D mode on motorways, B mode on minor roads and smooth-flowing town traffic, and e-Pedal in stop-start town traffic and places like car parks. It feels like that's how they were intended to be used.
But if you use cruise control on motorways, D mode can be skipped and you can stay with B mode everywhere, right ?
Same here but I use b mode when I know i am going to go down a hill as well, instead if applying the brakes.
Coast when u can - regen when u must :)
Great advice!
Upvoting because of the awesome thumbnail "shocking results!" 😂🤣
I was trolling.
@@bjornnyland you jest but these things genuinely seem to help with views! Put a reaction face in the thumbnail too, for scientific research 😁👍
Been driving a Leaf for 6 years and use D most of the time. Only use B mode when needing to slow down. Hardly any wear on the original brake pads and averaged 5.5 miles/KWh over the lifetime of the car so convinced D mode is the most economical.
Been driving a 40kwh leaf for almost 3 years.. I prefer B eco over D as I can easily control the regenerative break and acceleration. In first month I used the e-pedal until I notice that sometimes in certain situations the car would just stop regenerating and start using the friction breaks... In b mode I control everything... For me is the mode that suits me more... I can also coast in b mode by moduling the accelerator pedal just right ;)
I'm using B-Mode in the city and D-Mode on the highway. It's obvious that they both are identical in situations where you just drive without some recuperation. But for me it's also clear that D-Mode "can" be more efficient because it's more efficient to use the kinetic energy for driving since recuperation always comes with a loss of energy aswell.
Seems that Björn did the test with cruise control. Of course then there is no difference because the various modes just alter the pedal mapping
I think you are exactly right
I thought you are working for Sainsbury's :D
I'm joking, I'm subbed for quite some time now :)
Glad to see you testing different EV's and having a huge impact on the future world!
One for us UK folk 😀
What is Sainsbury's?
@@bjornnyland One of the UK's big supermarket chains. They wear a uniform which is the same colour as your jacket, which I am presuming is why Tosh mentioned it.
Uh, ok.
Nice video and perfect explanation. D and B is only a difference in how the inputs work. The efficiency of using only little or a lot of regen is the same in both cases, only how a little or a lot of regen is requested by the pedals is different. In B mode the accelerator pedal has to be pushed a little more to get the same result, the brake pedal a little less and the "default" behavior when pushing neither pedal is shifted. But just by slightly modifying how you use your foot you can get the same profile of acceleration/deceleration and consequently the exact same efficiency in either mode. It is just about what feels more comfortable/convenient in the current situation. I like B for highway driving, because I don't need to change to the brake pedal if i need to reduce speed. Also I like D mode for the city because it often makes sense to coast with only a slight deceleration. May be completely different for others.
Very interesting topic, I think the point is to use the mode you fill more comfortable and confident while driving. No big differences wrt efficiency. Thank you for the video
I have always been a bit of a hyper miler, so when I got my leaf I had to try different things out. By far and away the most economic function is, hold the knob over to where N is for a few second and it slaps it in neutral until you knock it down into D again. When I spend most of my time doing this, the Miles pre KW shoots right up. I use B mode when I need to break a lot, and e-peddle is for when I am in stop start situations so for me it is pretty much used like a handbreak. To be honest I sort of treat it all like a weird gear system. Ironically, as a hyper miler, I have actually started to drive the leaf faster than I used to drive my diesels on long trips.
I have settled on B mode as my mode in most of my driving. I like the control and brake assist and the regen and the less stress on brakes. D mode for Highway. B mode feels similar to a Chevy Spark in L mode with SPORT MODE on. Great way to drive!
If you have a very accurate „pedal foot“ B-mode is as efficient as D-mode and B-mode is just more fun as you can do one-pedal-driving
@@abraxastulammo9940 try leftfoot braking with a power assisted brake pedal, and say goodby to your teeth...
appreciate the thoroughness of your testing. would be good to try the same test in town (with more braking/stopping) with caveats about the variability of traffic but to see how much difference these two modes have in an urban environment . Perhaps empty roads but more junctions, traffic lights etc.
You should get better efficiency in B mode around town as you get more regen 😊
@@plawrance thats my point, but how much
In town also there should not be much difference as long as you can avoid burning energy by heating your brake disks. When using D-mode it requires more attention and forecasting what will be coming so you can slow down without breaking. With B-mode it is much easier.
@@plawrance yes, you get more regen BUT... if you "need" that regen, you'll get the same with a light touch of the brakepedal, as Bjørn said.
The big difference with D and B in town is that you will/should plan ahead better using when D. While in B you'll keep speed up longer because you know the regen will stop you.
That's the reason why you will have lower consumption in D than B in town.
@@therandomtester9561 the only works if you're unaware of how B mode and D mode work. You don't have to fully lift of the accelerator to regen, you can partially lift up and get partial regen, akin to using D mode. All these arguments are pointless unless you're an idiot and you don't know how to use a pedal.
On a highway stretch you wouldn't expect to break much anyway, so no effect of D/B. In general, to maximise range, the best thing is to keep your speed as constant as possible. All breaking and re-accelerating will cost energy, no matter if you use D or B.
To maximise range, you should only drive at a constant speed of 42mph! Works for me, and it's fun when people wave at me as they drive past at 80mph. Everyone is so friendly here in the UK 😉
The most efficient is mixing the two. Under some conditions D-mode is more efficient but in others B-mode is. I constantly switch between the two.
E-Pedal on/off also need a test on any difference!
I would say that e-pedal on, moves regen to such a level that it is beyond the regen in either mode or at least equal to the mode with the most regen, thus making them both mode equal.
I always drive on B mode. I like the (almost) one pedal driving
B mode is not good for battery
@@jojac84 do tell…
Please take the Leaf to Northcape. Would be an awesome road trip :)
I tested this for about 15 years ago.Drive the car the same distance,50 km, with regen and without regen.
Find out that the car used less energy without regen.This was for me a surprise, but one must understand that as soon as you use
regen the speed decrease and then you have to get more energy to keep up the speed afterwards.The best way to go
with low energy is to roll without using brakes or regen.Regen is usefull in towns or going down hills where you have to
decrease the speed for safety.Now a days I never use regen.
B mode makes it more likely to do unwanted regen and less likely to use the friction brakes. It does mather but its much more about the behavior of the driver. I actuely use neutral to coast and enable D D+eco and B when required. And always use B mode at low speed city driving to avoid the brakes
Highway driving on cruise control makes no difference of coarse if you are in d or b
I driver aprox 120km to and back from work. For me its D-mode that has proven to be best for me.. alot of 70km/h and 100km/h road. It require a little more footwork and planning but i seldom use ACC if I'm alone on the road.
Thanks for settling this argument. 😊😊 I always drive in B mode and with one peddle driving enabled driving in my 40kW Leaf. I get an average 4.4 miles per kWh
I always thought that D mode was just to give people more of a fossil feel to the regen. Just always use B mode and modulate the pedal as you need to, easy.
Exactly
No. Check vidar’s comment
Your efficiency tests are the best! Maybe someday we'll see an efficiency test on drafting (EV with good aerodynamics (e.g. Model 3) vs EV with bad aerodynamics (e.g. Zoe))
Till a rock hits your windshield?
I drive my 2014 Kia Soul in B mode all the time. I like the one pedal driving and can still coast by adjusting how much I depress the accelerater. I also think the brakes are quite poor and in an emergency hope that regen and friction brakes together would stop me sooner?
I‘m a big fan of one paddle driving. To my opinion it‘s more convenient as you don’t have to switch so often between acceleration paddle and break. If you handle it well, there shouldn’t be a difference between B and D mode. In B you should avoid to fully release the paddle if not needed. This might be the main reason, why people may see a difference between the two modes.
It depends on the driving style of the driver. If you are an on/off type of driver, B mode will consume more.
If you keep a smooth flow/speed it wont matter as the regen will anyway be moderate regardless of mode.
But try cruise control versus no cruise control. If you allow minor over and under speeds without cruise control it will be more efficient (surfing the hills).
I agree that on the highway it doesn’t matter, but when not on the highway for me I can tell there’s a difference. But I also wonder if having the car on autopilot changes the results in anyway. Also you should compare driving with it on eco mode vs b-mode only and see which is more efficient. I saw another video someone tested that and they found that only using the b-mode is more efficient than using both the eco mode and the b-mode at the same time was less efficient.
I claim that the definition of the Internet is a bunch of random people making claims.
brake pedal regen is the best like VW e-up and golf....coasting and regen with the brake pedal,you can also do this with the gear stick on a tesla, just pul it in N and you can feel how the car is free coasting...pul in D and regen kicks in :)
Great scientific approach you have there. Doing multiple cycles of the test to measure the consistency and thus the degree of confidence in the result!
Scientific? Irony? The repeated test was only in B-mode as far as I could see. And D was with cruise control on! Waste of time.
It depends how you drive.
On the Ioniq EV, you can have zero regen. This allows to anticipate more and freewheel. You can then regen only when needed.
If you setup the car to use regen as soon as you lift the foot from the pedal, it is more difficult to freewheel.
This allows to stop using energy earlier and slowly decrease the speed (anticipating a sharp turn or some traffic ahead for example) instead of continuing accelerating for more time and then using regen at the last minute).
I find it a bad idea to freewheel with zero regen, as you have divided your control of the speed between two pedals instead of modulating it with just one when you want to move at a constant speed. In the city and windy bumpy country roads it's like constantly dancing between 2 pedals.
@@MDaveUK No, as I have control on the regen using the steering wheel pads. I modify the level of regen in real time using the pads, very convenient.
Usually, I am using the adaptative cruise control (in town and on the country side roads as well on motorway) and I deactivate it to have freewheel and decelerate smoothly a few hundred meters before braking/regen.
It is much less tiresome than having to adapt your speed using the pedals.
I also have a Citroen C-zero and have to modulate using the foot, and it is not as nice.
In the city, I use the ACC anyway (but ready to do an emergency break if needed (even if I have an automatic emergency braking system).
On the country side roads, I also use ACC, it is working really well on the Ioniq. Also, I don't have bumpy roads where I live and cruise at 80km/h (even on very small roads), and anyway you should have really bad roads if you have to constantly adjust your speed. Why would you want to adjust your speed on windy roads?
@@MDaveUK I had been driving an Ioniq (gone now because of a road accident - a van wanted to make an U-turn on a highway), now I drive an 40 kWh Leaf... I miss the regen pads and zero regen from my Ioniq so so much!!!!
I completely agree on this. The claims about less eficiency on B mode may come from Toyota hybrids, that also have those modes. In those cars, the B mode usually increases the engine brake. Since any fraction of engine brake is not regenerative braking, that energy is lost. This could be useful in a hybrid in specific situations such as driving on a long downhill, where your battery would be easily filled and friction brakes would be abused as the only way to control speed. However, it's indeed unefficient.
D- or B-mode is just a convenience thing. A matter of taste like he said. How much regen are you comfortable with when not using the accelerator. In long stretches of downhill i prefer B sometimes to rest my right foot. Most of the time I'm just using D. In cruse control with constant speed, it doesn't matter at all since the amount of regen depends on the terrain, not on D or B.
Hey Bjorn, you should try it now with Eco mode OFF - it's much more efficient - haha.
I drive my 40 Kwh Leaf in "B" drive with "E-Pedal" in city traffic. On the freeway (Motorway) I use "D" drive with "E-Pedal" off. I find that the trick is to coast when you can allowing the Regen to slow the vehicle. It's like letting the gear box pull up the car when driving a "Manual" transmission in a ICE car.
B / D only applies when you drive without ACC. ACC will always use the full regen and even the breaks on the front wheels to never pass the speed limit or hit a car. Standard CC (long press the button) it will use the regen of the gear such that in downhill in D the speed will get higher than the set speed as with 2010-2017 while B will have sufficient regen for everything.
Thanx Bjorn. Love your vids! I drove D mode for 5 minuts when I just had my Leaf. It was enough to know that i'm a B-mode man! Drives more like a tesla model s (our second car).
i use epedal for everything
The way the B-mode works may be different for other cars. For Toyota, B-mode is "engine braking", not "extra regenerative braking". In hybrids, this couples the combustion engine to dissipate energy by friction; this is necessary because batteries might not have sufficient capacity for long braking (long, steep downhill), and the electric motor-generators might not have sufficient power for strong braking. Pure electric vehicles have much more battery capacity and stronger motor/generators.
For Nissan Leaf, the manual states "B mode engages the regenerative braking system more aggressively on downhill slopes, and helps reduce brake use" (describing shift positions), and "more regenerative brake is applied than in the D (Drive) position" (describing the Braking System). It also says "To help reduce brake wear, and to prevent the brakes from overheating, reduce speed and select B mode before going down a slope or long grade", which essentially tells me that the system was not properly designed/calibrated; why in the world would friction brakes be engaged if regenerative braking capacity is still available?
The only difference can be seen going on a fairly steep downhill; going down in D-mode (using brake pedal), then in B-mode, and noting the increase in battery capacity. Driving at a more or less constant speed on highway does not engage any kind of braking, so no efficiency difference is expected. Braking to a standstill from highway speed will simply be drowned in the overall energy consumption.
To my tastes, a "go faster" pedal and a "go slower" pedal arrangement makes sense, with no regen when both are released, but with an option like B mode for descending hills (perhaps with a more extreme mode for steep hills, like the S and L positions on many Japanese automatic transmissions). I suspect that with one-pedal driving I'd always be trying to find the right spot, but then we manage that when driving an ICE car without cruise control, so maybe I'd get used to it.
It's easier when you drive in b mode more. Dont overthink it
It probably doesn't make difference on cruise control :). If driven by foot - efficiency: D > B > ePedal. Unless you have a good foot to control the regen, otherwise even slightest movement of foot can affect the efficiency.
Agree, no difference on motorways!! Maybe in town/local roads, it will depend also how you drive, etc... I tend to use D mode (setting 3) on wifeys eGolf and my i3 has not got that setting, always high regen, so like a B mode...
By the way... do Tesla Model 3.., can you still change Regen higher or lower still? (Getting one next month).
B is for Bjorn. So nice of Nissan to add a mode especially for you
B mode is coming from the hybrids. So called BRAKE mode, where the engine is running on deceleration to slow down the car. In the hybrids it's used on going down a mountain, because the electric motor is too weak to slow down the car alone. I suppose the idea is the same in the EVs with B mode.
D mode = low regen
B mode = normal/high regen
Yes i understand. But it's made to use it on going down mountains and etc. So to not need to use the brakes so much. Ofcourse you can use it otherwise too.
We're picking up our first EV next week so I'm really interested in things like this. The city that I live in is very hilly. One of my most common commutes requires several long uphill and downhill stretches. Should I be changing between D and B for these differing types of terrain or should I just pick one and stick with it?
We've had our new Nissan Leaf for 8 days. For the first seven days, we used the E-pedal and were getting 4.2 miles/KWh. During the last 24 hours, we've change to D and B, coasting to stops such as junctions, lights etc. We've used B in a similar way to changing down in a manual car, bringing the car to almost stopped without brakes and our efficiency has gone up to 5. We also live in an area where there are many ups and downs between our house and the city centre. We are seeing 5.5. on the way to town and 5 on return. It's just a matter of getting used to driving gently.
The challenge with mixed pedal is: you have little to no idea if you engage the friction brakes or not.
If you are in D-mode you have to use brake pedal to rappidly reduce speed, you can easily push a little too much, and wast energy on friction brakes.
If you are in B mode, you can just push the accelerator to use less regen, like coasting, and avoid friction brakes unless you have to.
Dear Bjørn, which way of manipulating re-gen do you prefer ? Teslas approach, B-mode via gear shifter, or shifting paddles like in Hyundai ?
When I have tested, I only put car into b mode when on motorway while rolling down hill. Mainly use d
If you manage the accelerator very accurately in B-mode, you can avoid the excessive braking that would reduce range. But I think constantly applying pressure to the accelerator makes my right foot cramp. That's why I really really miss having D-mode on my Tesla.
Bjorn do you feel auto mfgs should provide option to set regen level or satisfied by default tuning for most vehicles?
All manufacturers should let the user choose.
Bjorn how about a B/D mode test in the city?
If the leaf engage regen on braking pedal before it engages friction brakes, I would guess it will be mostly no difference anyway. So it's more just matter of preference - do you like more regen when foot off accelerator B mode, do you like to push brake pedal D mode
I use B mode all the time instead E-Pedal for simple fact that brake calipers does not apply while braking and first of all less ware on brakes, less dust on lovely alloy rims.
On motorways B mode does not make much of difference in terms of energy recovery but if you on the mixed traffic area, town bypass etc it gets more energy back to battery.
E-Pedal on the other hand is absolutley perfect for City drive.
My best case scenario on B mode is 25% energy recovery on mixed drive and no brake dust on rims :-)
One thing than need to be taken to account on B mode brake lights does not apply so driver behind might not be aware you are slowing down more aggressively.
E-Pedal then apply brake lights to early in my opinion annoying drivers behind and use brake calipers to soon losing maybe 6-10% more recovery energy plus dust on rims.
I know i said dust on rims 3 or 4 times, I love clean rims :-)
Great video! Test it don’t listen to random claims ! Thank for the test!
Hi
Have you tried to use the Limiter in the Leaf you will be surpriced how low the consumption goes, example: set the limiter to 80kmh and try to drive in 79-80kmh the limiter will drastically lower the consumption, not sire if this is a bug where you can fool the consumption meter pr what is happening, anyway using the limiter in normal driving really lower the consumption
Br Thomas
Polestar has the best „B mode“. If you‘re in the high regenerative breaking setting, the „deadzone“ before it starts is quite high, so you do not do the innefficient small acceleration-deceleration thing, as you would in other „B modes“
Surely that’s down to how you use the accelerator pedal?
@@SirHackaL0t. It‘s the sensitifity of the pedal, some react to very small changes of the pedal, which makes it inefficient, as you have like a oscillation in speed and regenerative braking is only like 65% effeicient, so you lose energy doong this
@@laser_simon922 Sounds like pebcac type error. You should be able to get used to it, just like getting used to the micro-movements required for different clutches (back in the day when you needed those)
@@SirHackaL0t. But it is less comfortable if it reacts so sensitive, and nowadays it is just software and easy to make it better, so why not just do it?
@@laser_simon922 It’s mainly practice. Keep at it and before you realise you’ll be slowing down like a pro in B mode. :)
I like the B mode because I could break with less distance before a total stop. Do a test with or without e-pedal in highway and in city.
I bet people with only three or four right foot accelerator positions will greatly reduce consumption in D-mode. All Taxi drivers I used lately have this "problem", they cannot pulse width modulate their feet for a smooth drive.
Thanks dude!
I have a kona, the thing with level 3 regen is that for the same amount of acceleration, i have to press deeper, which requires more efford because the peddles are heavy.
Wouldn't be easier to switch to level 0? I have Kona too. I love the steering wheel pads. 98% i don't use the brake pedal.
D mode is always more efficient overall. On some straight long drive it doesnt matter, since you are not doing a lot of braking.
Like he says in the video, you can apply more regen by slightly pressing brake. This enables less aggressively slowing down and not wasting energy to speed back up if situation actually didnt need so much braking. B mode due to releasing later, can make you apply brake pads because you had less time to assess situation.
D mode = Defensive mode and better economy - you release earlier and are ready to brake if necessary.
B mode = Berserker mode and less economy - you are more likely to drive too close to others and you are playing with acceleration pedal to adjust things - less safe.
B mode is so you can do easier driving by letting off the speed, where you would otherwise start to brake yourself anyway.
D mode I use for all other driving.
B mode is just easier for roads where you let off the throttle with engine braking on an ICE anyway
Yes
Also noticed, the avg speed for first B mode was 84. The other 3 were 81. That might explain the small difference in consumption as well.
Not really. As you saw, the time counts even when parked. I drove exactly the same for all runs. It's just a matter of how fast I was to start recording after I parked.
@@bjornnyland Ah. Got it. Thanks for the clarification.
Regen is more important at slow speeds and stop and go like in a city. D is better for highways and B is better for local traffic is what I would expect.
When to use e-pedal vs b-mode? To me it seems the regen is just stronger on b-mode. Seems kind of redundant to have both?
i think you do great job ! i have a kona and i found that i am more efficent in regen lvl 2 then in lvl 3 and i think that becouse of my driving style and what routes i choose.
Totally agree with you.
Bjorn! I'm choosing between ioniq and leaf, is ioniq really that much more efficient? If leaf can do 150miles can ioniq do 200? You haven't done 90 and 120kmh range test on 38kwh ioniq.
It is obvious, but I did not see or hear anything about battery status. B-mode/ regen works better when it is space on the battery for the extra energy,.
D mode in Highway and B mode in city. Eco mode on/off not difference. e-pedal on or off I dont known if that impact.
Does ‘D’ mode use regen braking? Answered at 4:00
Great video Bjørn! Will you be testing out the Active Drive Assist for the Mustang Mach E when it comes out?
D or B won't make a difference on cruise control. It's more relative when driving manually and how good your throttle control is and how much you dislike or like pressing the brake pedal to add regen
The "outdated" Leaf is not so bad! B or D-Mode, my needs would be covered.
Regarding brake blending and maybe a test for some videos. I have seen a test where they showed to ice users what regen actually means by measuring the brake temperature after a steep hill for an e-tron and another combustion car. Since the e-tron had a break temperature of 90C (ice 199C) and not ambient temperature i thought it would be a nice test to see if all those claims about break/regen blending is not just appling more regen + normal brakes at every break modulation. One could for instance drive down a hill with constant speed and measure break temp at the end in different scenarios, without regen (N) and use only break as a reference, then drive down with only regen (no break) and then with regen enabled + break blending but pressing the break only that much where the car shows that only regen is being applied. This will show how good break blending works and if it is only marketing scam hiding small regen.
On most modern EVs brakes are intermittently applied lightly to keep them clean and dry, and also when you start pressing the brake pedal in preparation for applying more braking force. There is also a limit to how much regen power can be absorbed, especially if the battery SoC is high, so if it was a very steep hill this may be a factor. Some cars also use brakes for torque vectoring. Brake blending is no scam, in many cars you can feel the transition from regen to brakes, or you can see the regen power with a OBD2 reader as Bjørn has shown many times.
@@nordlands8798 Cleaning the breakpads will have zero effect on the temperature of the break on a single test. Appling brake force via brake and how much when you hit the breakpedal is exactly what this test will show. Using high SoC would be dump in such a test and can be ruled out by the test setting. Torque vectoring applies when you accelerate not decelarte and even if you insist, just use a straight road for the test. Maybe i explained myself wrong, break blending is a thing but that you have zero brake usage until the car maxes out in the display for regen power, that is the test subject. Brute force you could also just disconnect the brakes and see how much regen the car really has but this cannot be done. It so often said that a car xy uses more regen when you press the brake and no brake will be applied. This test will show if that is true. Most of the cars that have this setup do not have a simple option to just enable full regen on the gas pedal and this test will show why.
Tror testen av B mode mot D mode hadde vært mere interresant om du kjørte uten cruise kontroll på normal svingete landevei.
That's not the point.
ABA = Always Be Anticipating 😅
Does B mode heat battery more than D mode? I.e heat cells by putting more energy in.
Is there any difference between the two when you're on epedal? I can't seem to tell a difference between the two but I always use epedal
Not changing your speed, keeping all kinetic energy is always most efficiënt. Than D or B does not do anything. (Like in the test)
Stop and go, or slow and fast travic like a busy highway might be a hole other story.
question: how much does the battery degrade on your model 3 when idle? (not even turned on just sat there in a garage or something) also great video bjorn!
Jamie M Do you mean (phantom) drain when parked? ruclips.net/video/InhSfKCQg4M/видео.html
True and yeah it is phantom drain
@@nordlands8798 oh nice thanks
Damn bjorns tested everything XD
How about stability in slippery conditions, does B or D make any difference? I like coasting mainly because it feels like it reduces the risk of something unexpected happening when the conditions are bad.
Hi @Bjørn. Can you show the new camera in tbe rear view mirror? And do the new telescopic steering interfere positively with the driving position? Thanks
Given these are electric motors, shouldn't there be an AC mode? This would clearly be better....... whatever mode you use, we all can be certain of Tesla Bjorn for the win!
Is one foot driving the most efficient?
If you try this test in Polestar2 the different is huge according to a lot of Polestar2 drivers.
I mentioned towards the end of this video that you shouldn't blindly trust claims unless you test for yourself.
I agree there is no difference between B and D mode on higway driving in a Leaf. But in normal traffic on smaller roads where you need to slow down freqeuently because of traffic or sharp corners, I`m sure B mode would be more efficient. With D mode you would need to use friction brakes to slow down in these conditions. Using one-pedal-driving button is convenient in heavy traffic, but not as efficient because that system will use friction brakes.
The point with this video was to tell people that B mode works great for my range tests.
Totally true in my experience. Thanks, Bjorn! But still unclear why D and B were chosen to indicate these slightly different modes?.D = Drive, as in traditional auto transmissions, but B? Eh? For Brake? E.g. More regen?
They probably thought that R for Regen would cause more issues.
It annoys me that I can't set B as the standard drive mode. Why Nissan, whyyy?!!??
Nice video, but the correct name of the lake is actually Mjøsa.
Have you heard of the word "joke" before?
Yes, joke is something said or done to provoke laughter. But Mjøsa. You misspelled it.
Hi Bjørn when would you test MG 5 one of the cheapest ev on market.
All the best 👍
It’s interesting because you assume the eco mode in cars uses less energy from the heater and other appliances. Does the leaf have an eco mode as well as D and B modes? I have the MG ZS EV. There is a marked difference on the guessometer between mileage shown for eco, normal and sport PLUS the HVAC claims to us quite a lot of energy even when the heater and air on are turned off? Potentially, there could be as much as 40 miles difference between Eco Mode/no HVAC and Sport Mode with HVAC. Even the difference between Eco and Normal without and with HVAC is a big margin.
Yes, the LEAF does have an eco mode, and it changes the guessometer reading. I don't use it much so can't quote figures. It works by limiting power, by changing the acccelerator pedal/power profile. You can override it by pushing the pedal past a false limit. I think HVAC works normally in eco mode if you turn it on.
Incorrect. I have not assumed anything about eco mode in this video. This video was a test between D and B mode.
Sorry for the ill chosen word, Bjorn. I didn’t mean to imply otherwise. I guess I was think more to myself. No offence intended. I suppose what I should have said was that, as a consumer, we would assume it better for energy to be in Eco mode. Your test proves that is not necessarily the case.
I think what I may do is to set out a repeatable route where I can see how much the different “modes” of the MG affect its consumption when driven in the same manner each time. Whether the guessometer is accurate in its predictions? Whether the HVAC really makes as big a difference as the car claims? By the way, in the latest BMS update for the car they have added a battery preheater option for the driver. I’m told it only works in conditions such as you would see in Norway. I’ll let you know when I have the update done.
Kind regards Nathan
Anyone tested if Eco off is better for city driving? Strangely I've found Eco mode is efficient for efficiency on the highway but not so efficient in city commutes.. would be interested if anyone has done any extensive testing on the Eco on/off scenarios?
B mode is just remapping acceleration pedal to start at regen lower position. There is no reason to have different consumption in each mode. D mode is something like emulation of Automatic transmission.
So...if D and B is the same for consumption and D is maybe slightly better for city driving, why should you ever use the B mode? Only for a different way of drive pedal behavior?
Already explained in this video. My question to you us: Why would you ever use D mode?
@@bjornnyland I think D is the default mode, that's why I would use it. So the difference between D and B is only the drive pedal function then.
B brakes more and you have to give it more "gas" to keep driving than in D. So I would prefer the default D mode.
D mode has less regen and you have to push the brake more.
I feel that most of what I am about to write you will already know. Average driving speed, wind direction and speed, traffic conditions, number of hills encountered, and spec of car (brake pedal regen or no brake pedal regen) all play a part in any ‘test’. In order to get a true result we would need all of these factors to be included, varied, and measured to get a true answer.
I can tell you that I believe from my own experiences that regen gains can be optimised if you take all these things into consideration. The only way to get meaningful results would be a longer test time period (say one or two months) and driving under all conditions, and with a larger sample of cars.
Either way it makes very little difference in terms of a single journey I feel.
Does B mode use the cars break and does the break lights come on? Or does B mode use motors/transmission to slow down and save the discs and pads from wearing as quick.
It uses the electric motor as a generator to charge the battery. This is basically an electric brake. And the break lights have to light up if the braking is strong enough.
@@wermagst Thank you. It is basically like a retarder and saves your brakes.