Omg, so overkill. I have Kubota B7500 sub compact and I’ve never had a problem just using bungee cords and duct tape. Why would you need more? My tractor weighs 1,350 lbs.. it’s not going anywhere. You guys are silly.
I'll also add as a commercial driver the only time I know that chains are required is when you are hauling steel coils or structural steel. Straps are find for everything else as long as the straps meet the weight requirements. Hope this helps.
I am a commercial driver as well, You can use straps on coils as long as you use protection in between the strap and the steel. There is no rules in any book that says you cant use straps.
When you first started your Tuesday videos I wasn’t sure your material could be very interesting, but this was probably one of your top 10. I found that I am drastically undersized on my 1025 tie down. Very nice job, thanks for sharing.👍👏
I also enjoyed this video and realized that I am not legal hauling my tractor on my trailer the way I currently do. I will be getting a few more chains and binders. I only used one 3/8" chain across the back and one up front both tightened to the corners with binders. Then one chain around the loader and bucket. Gonna be fixing this ASAP.
I have watched many of these videos on how to tie down your tractor, I think you were the first one that did it right! I play by the rules unless I’m going a short distance. Then use one chain and one binder in the front and back.
I think you're the first person out of all those people that have ever talked about securement on RUclips that are actually said there's a regulation handbook manual talking about that stuff and the actual guidelines on FMCSA and of course your state Indiana.I'm so so glad that you actually talked about that because it's so different how few people understand
I’m not sure you mentioned it, so I will. If you are hauling anything behind you that it taller than your vehicle, measure the highest point and mark it in a piece of tape. Then stick that piece of tape on your dash or top of your windshield so you know if you will clear that bridge or overpass up ahead. Or in Tim’s case maybe that drive through Cheeseburger place. Good video. I prefer chains.
Please remember GRAVITY is NOT a tie down. As a retired police officer you would not believe the number of people who would use gravity as a tie down and were surprised when they turned a corner and the tractor, track hoe, backhoe, trencher, bobcat or whatever came off the trailer.
I owned and operated a commercial transport hotshot business for around 5 or so years on and off. And am now a tow truck operator. Your tie downs match the legal requirements in Canada. The only thing I myself do differently is I like to criss cross my chains or straps on my trailer when hauling equipment or vehicles as they help prevent the machine from literally going in any direction. 2 crossed in the back and 2 crossed in the front plus the additional needing tie down on an attachment prevents the machine from going sideways, up, down, forward or backwards. Also really helps limit body roll when in wind or taking corners I find. Just my own personal preference that I like to use.
Several years ago, I pulled flatbed semi trailers and we used both chains and straps. We had 10000# chains and 7000# straps. I can't remember if it was federal regs or company policy, but our rule of thumb was to secure the load at a minimum of 150% of its' weight. For example: a 40000# steel coil would be secured with six 10000# chains, or a 30000# load of lumber with seven 7000# straps. Thanks for ALL of your videos and thanks for introducing me to so many great products. PS: artillian grapple is being delivered tomorrow. Yeah!
You can use 1 chain on the front and 1 on the back but you do have to use a chain binder for each corner. Two chains and 4 binders now haven said that it does have to be two separate points of contact on the equipment not just looped thru as you mentioned I am a ex-flatbeder and over kill is always safer and doesn't take that muck more time really Great videos keep up the good work and we will keep tuning in to learn something new
Well Tim I don't know what people are talking about. I live in California one of the most strictest states and yes you can use straps. As long as you use strap protectors as you have. One thing I can pass on is that in California the Department of Transportation likes to see booms or any other attachments strapped down. Preferably straight across. The purpose of this is to prevent them from moving side to side. The concern is that with hydraulic bleed down they could move and strike something or someone next to your vehicle. You can always check your Department of Transportation website and or speak to a Department of Transportation Officer. I find that they are very helpful, willing to help and enjoy helping you understand the requirements. As I have been told. They would rather you ask than them be forced to catch you doing something the wrong way and having to site you for it. Great video keep up the great content and God bless.
People see that I used 10,000 lb straps to secure my Harley Davidson (with bags/fuel/oil/tools etc. around 750 lbs) and say "over-kill much?". LOL What they don't see are the other things I haul, ie. full size truck's, cars, boats.... What it comes down to: I'm not worried about me or my equipment, it's if my load were to shift and cause someone else to be injured or killed. Prevention of that is worth any extra money I spend on my "over-kill" straps, chains, links, or D-rings. Last: ALWAYS, yes, ALWAYS secure to the frame. Great information, thanks for making this video for others to learn from!
I personally would find a better spot to tie to on the front of the tractor. In an accident I don't think that grill guard would be an adequate anchor point. Good info though! Stay safe out there.
I agree. He has grab hooks on the loader, they look like Ken's bolt on hooks, that's what I use and they're great. Super easy to hook a chain on too. Almost as though that's what they're made for.
I agree that the grill guard is a little light to use as a tie down. I go around the axles when I tie down my farm tractors and technically he needs another tie down for the loader since it is considered an attachment.
Good stuff! Can't ever be too cautious when securing your loads. Me personally I use a shackle through the drawbar plate, an axle strap through that and 1 10K ratchet strap to each rear corner. Up front I use an axle strap around each axle, inboard of the knuckle; 1 10K strap to each corner. I do like the chafing gear you showed! I'll get a set to go around the corner of the bucket. And your est. for 1025 weights was spot on with mine. Thanks for the confirmation!
Enjoying these Truck and Trailer Tuesday segments on Tractor Time with Tim. Keep on posting videos Tim, the more you post the quicker I can get rid of cable tv for good!
I'm glad that you actually mentioned that the abrasion protection on those straps that's the only reason why some people are kind of shy of straps is because they've had large abrasion issues but with having appropriate protection like that that is that is appropriate so very very good on that
The brush guard on the front of that tractor I was told by my local dealer will not hold the weight of the tractor during a tie down. You really need to get something like I got which mounts to the three bolts on the side of where the loader attaches. I wished I could send you a picture of them but unfortunately I don't know how to put a picture in the comment. But I found them on eBay they was pretty inexpensive and well worth the money. I got the ones that goes from front to back. In other words they have two holes in them and a tie down for each side. Therefore I can put my four point tie-down connection at that same point. They are awesome. Now I do like your straps for Johnny. I wish I could find some that heavy to use on mine. I may have to check out your store but I do not and have not ever used Amazon. Because they do not accept PayPal.
Well Tim my wife says it’s your fault that we are getting our first new tractor . A 2019 1023 e with loader, bush hog and box blade. Thanks. Your videos are a big help.
Tim, what would the WLL of the front brush guard be? Wouldn't that be much lower than the other points? I would think that best would be the front axle would be the best, but also think that the hooks on the bucket might be higher limits at least than the brush guard. Thanks and keep up the good work. Really appreciate the amount of time and effort you put into the videos.
Great info and good reference and description of how the calculations are done. I like that you over do the requirements for carrying your equipment!!! Stay safe...
I was really looking foreword to a tie down video, thanks:-). I’m curious about the other options you mentioned to secure the front of Johnny. If the time ever comes I’ll look into those.
I love the research you have done. Perfect video. Usually the way I find out is by state police tickets. It is so hard to find the laws, just when you think you have it, you get another ticket. I have found out in the past not to ask the police officers they will tell you one thing only to find out the hard way he was wrong. Keep up the good work!
Tim a suggestion for Johnny why not just hook you straps to the chain hooks in your loader bucket they are way stronger than the grill guard. Keep the great videos coming nice work.
I know this is a late reply, but, the answer is that the bucket is not part of the frame AND connected to hydraulic cylinders that will eventually move while under pressure due to oil leaking past the seals in the cylinder. All cylinders will leak over time which would loosen your connection.
The WLL of any webbed straps (Such as those cargo straps you have) is also listed under appendix A of the cargo securement manual. You need to scroll down the table.
Also, as I keep hearing, it's never bad to over exceed the straps just in case someone doesnt fully understand. Nothing bad ever came from using a heavier tie down or heavier duty trailer.
I haul heavy equipment and throughout the country if it’s over 10,000lbs you need 4 separate tie down attachment point and if it had an arm, boom or bucket that needs a separate straps.
TRUCKER ANDY I’ve seen plenty of guardrails that were wiped out by a boom/stick or bucket swinging to the side because the driver/loader/securer failed to properly secure it.
Also check with your insurance company about towing. I have State Farm and if an accident occurs my trailer is covered- but not the items loaded on the trailer. I had to take an additional policy (very reasonable at around $30 a month) to cover accident loss.
I tried using big ratchet straps to tie my tractor down. I did not find the ratchet straps to work reliably so I picked up grade 70 chain and boomers. I use a breaker bar to latch the boomers and NOTHING moves now. This is a great video, I'm glad you're doing this series.
You probably did the right thing. I like the concept of those retracting ratchet straps but if you read the reviews on Amazon quite a few people state that they fail in one way or another after just a few years of use. The failure is not such that it puts the load at risk but things like failure to lock, failure to retract, the plastic handle breaking, etc. It seems to be the way with all spring-loaded self-retracting devices. Any vacuum that I've ever owned with a spring loaded self-retracting power cord - it was usually the first thing to fail. :-)
Curt White Be careful with those breaker bars and pipe cheaters, had a good friend of mine loose his front teeth when one of those let go on him, wasn’t a very pretty sight ...
@@ibjeterhere Yikes! That sounds aweful. Hurts to just think about it. I really liked the ratcheting boomers Tim used to tie down the excavator. I think I might upgrade to a set of those.
@@TractorTimewithTim yeah... $240 for a good set of boomers or several grand for a new set of teeth... I think those might make a nice stocking stuffer! ;)
Ok, call me a nerd, but I had to point out 11:20 you talked about having protection on the rubbed areas of the straps. I'm sorry, but my mind had to go to something dirty. Hope you don't mind me commenting that and thank you for the info. I am actually trying to learn how to safely haul equipment as I like running it and pulling stuff. Thank you for taking the time to teach us this.
When I bought my 1025r the first thing I did was build tie down hooks. Reason being was I might put tractor on one side of trailer and load materials on the other side of trailer. The heavy equipment generally has tie down hooks why nothing else does I can't figure out.
Just checked your amazon store for those nice retractable ratchets. I then realised they were nearly as expensive as the product itself to get them to me in the uk! I will have to find something similar here!
Your on the mark with that info, and yes it can get confusing when looking at anything FMCSA. We have to watch training videos now every quarter for our safety program and although we knew how tie down for years the Gov had to come in an create instructions and guidelines. I’m not upset that they have done this because I remember the days when landscaping contractors and fly by night excavation outfits tied their equipment down with one chain or rope,yes I’ve seen it, I’ve watched two zero turn commercial mowers come off a trailer back in the late 90’s thank goodness it didn’t cause a catastrophe. Here in upstate NY the DOT watches the small contractors more than us class 8 guys you don’t see the crazy stuff you once did years ago and the fines are heavy as well.
I have the same chain binders and I love them of you were not aware they have a neutral position with the forward reverse lever so you don't have to listen to the ratcheting when spinning them by hand
Thanks Tim & Christi for this video. I have to haul my tractor to the other sIide of town and it will be my first trailering. This video is a great referenceand I did go to FMCSA as suggested. Thanks.👍🏽🙂.
Makes me wonder how many laws I've actually violated over the years by not knowing any of these rules and just going by what I've learned from folks about tying down my stuff. Thanks for the very useful info gonna be changing how I secure my stuff.
Yes, it is difficult to understand these laws. My personal goal is to operate legally, even if I could get away with less. However, I’m finding it difficult to understand and implement the rules.
Tim, I will try to find the website reference to share with you, but when I first got my 1025R I did a little bit if digging to make sure I was legal when I would haul to friends and families houses to do work. I found that it was called out that not only does the machine need to be tied down with the appropriate WLL, but your implements do as well. So you would need a strap on your loader/bucket and post hole digger as well.
I was only aware of implements that could swing left or right for obvious reasons. But did not know the front loader bucket had to be tied down. I will research that.
@@danielscott9769 I could be mistaken, it was over almost 2 years ago when I did my preliminary research, I could be mixing it up with side to side movement
Another great video Tim. I try to ride my exercise bike 30 minutes in the evening. If I watch your videos while riding, the time goes faster. Maybe you should start a new series "Exercising with Tim". Figuring if a person exercises then they can eat more cheeseburgers.
Thank you for the Cargo Buckles tip, I ordered a half a dozen to start lol. I have a jd x575 at 1000 lbs (approximately) so they should be fine and very convenient looking.
The issue with connecting to the bucket hooks is that the bucket is hydraulically operated, and a leaky cylinder/valve/seal could allow the bucket to move and slacken the straps, which then may fall of the hooks and allow the machine to move to the rear and slacken those straps. Basically a similar situation to having to strap down booms and bucket on Casey or implements on the back of the tractor. Also the loader arms and bucket are both detachable and are supplied with maximum load ratings which would be way less than the total weight of the complete unit, so they in theory should not be used as tie down points. I would also guess that the hood guard is not structural and is probably not suitable for a tie down. For the Front end of Johnny, maybe a custom set of wheel straps for the front wheels might be the best option.
Personally I use chain, I do use straps on the implements; The machine gets chain. I can't quote from any published information, however it was my understanding that implements required binding of some sort. I do know that articulating equipment has to be made ridged for transport, because I have had to make plates to secure a machine for transport. I couldn't tell you what the law is, and that really depends on how the cop interprets the actual law. I get held to a higher standard just because I have a class A CDL, make no mistake; I'm not a truck driver. So I tend to go overkill when it comes to securing a load and I check my trailer and load at welcome centers and fuel stops. I have had my car trailer from VA to FL and back a few times now without any issues. When you get to your destination you can feel the tires, if one is hotter than the others, chances are it's low; Low tire pressure is the #1 cause of blow outs. You can feel the hubs, again if one is hotter than the others, you have a problem. I find it's better to keep an eye on your equipment to keep it in proper operating condition. It only takes a few minutes to walk around, check lights, tires, hubs and tie downs. Loads can shift, straps slip
Very good video. Tieing down any machine can be a challange if the attachments get in the way. My tractor is 10 times the weight of Johnny and the factory made 4 eyelets in the frame for tiedown. Unfortunately the front shovel is in line with my trailers "D" rings and chassis eyelets. We had to have additional "D" rings added to the trailer to keep tiedown chains uninterupted. The backhoe can lock to the tractor but we chain it down to have a lower transport height. You don't want to loop over or under ever.
In case you where wondering immi is Indiana Mills Manufacturing Inc. , they make most of the seat belts in American cars. I designed some equipment for them in one of my previous lives (aka jobs)
I love my hydraulic driven post hole digger on my KX 41 3v Kubota excavator because it makes me over 5,000 a year in post holes and sonotubes. Good for filler work, thanks again for all your entertainment
great video as always. I didnt want to fork out the money for a ratcheting turnbuckle but boy am I glad I did. People have to keep in mind usually these chains and turnbuckles you only have to buy once (not so much for the straps as they can deteriorate after a while especially with the UV rays from the sun. Normally you don't leave your tractor or equipment tied down for days and days in the sun either ) But I really like auto retract straps and yes if they make heavier duty ones Id buy them.
For my JOHN DEERE 335 And GT235 there are holes in the front of the main frame I hook into and for the rear I use the holes for aligning the rear attachments or you can use the hitch hole but I tend to not use it to prevent from enlarging it as they tend to if your not using the correct size pin
At work we transport a John deere 410 l backhoe almost daily and to my knowledge florida law requires a 5th tie down over the bucket our mini crews also tie down the buckets
I live in Georgia and was a delivery truck driver for two JD dealerships. The law here also requires a separate tie down for a loader or backhoe. So a tractor with both a loader and a backhoe would require six tie downs. The grill guard is not acceptable. The frame or a front axle is required for a tie down.
The only thing I do different is the pattern of the tiedowns. I go from the back of the equipment(when loaded nose first) to the front of the trailer and from the front of the equipment to the back of the trailer and chris-cross if possible. Why? Can't remember but my grand-dad taught me this method almost 50 years ago.Seems like it does prevent load from side shifting. On my dozer (20,000 pounds) and backhoes(16,000 pounds) I use 5 chains (3/8"). On tractors to 9000 pounds I use 4 straps(2"). One thing I noticed is the debris on your trailer deck. In Texas that will get you pulled over faster than a tie down inspection.Always keep a broom in the back of the truck.
Tim - you should probably mention that the Cargobuckles that you are demonstrating do NOT come with a hook or anyway to attach them to your trailer other than permanently with a single bolt. I'm assuming you bought the hooks shown on yours separately. Which of course increases the cost of an already very expensive ratchet strap. I noticed in the Cargobuckle reviews that quite a few folks were surprised to find that when their buckles arrived there was no way to attach them.
Your doing great Tim, your using quality equipment which is essential, besides I’m very jealous of that backhoe ... Years ago I did a lot of lashing on cargo ships & rail flatcars, first of stick with chains and always cross them so they pull against each other, I like those ratchet straps but have had them let go on me on bumpy roads, just say’n ... Also never trust d-rings, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen them break, just consider the load you put on those lashings if you had to make an emergency stop, stick with chains whenever possible, these are just things I found out over many years & are too be taken with a grain of salt & I still would like to have that Case backhoe :)
Should've, would've, could've. You see the hydraulic post hole digger that attaches to your backhoe? You know if you search RUclips for jd 1025r your name comes up frequently? Hmmm. I wonder why. I'd give all your videos a like, but it fills up my que. Another great video from the stars of southern Indiana.
Hey Tim. I did read on a tag of a new Pull over binder as you call it, that you are not to use a cheater bar on them at all. I tried to find a link to it but had no luck.
Great Informative video Tim. You have a lot of good information and products to use on this video. I must admit when you were going over the calculations of the aggregate working load limit i got a headache LOL. Tim please pray for my mother in law. Hope you and your family have a happy and blessed Thanksgiving. God Bless!!!
Great info. The biggest problem I have found in different regions, is the officers who enforce them, do not really know. You could ask any 2 officers in the same region, questions, and 75% of their answers are different. Best to error on the side of overkill I have always found.
Though I don't know if those rules apply in all states, the way you explained it sounds sensible and logical. I'm not all together sure about the tie down straps, but I've never tied down a load like you have, only small loads on pickups, or huge loads on flatbed semis. They would not be acceptable on a large semi truck, unless the load was extremely light but bulky like large diameter PVC pipe or something on that order, and even then I'm not certain they would pass muster. Been a long time since I've needed to do anything like that, and hopefully will be a very long time until I need to try it again. However, those straps are head and shoulders above the usual kind. If they could make them heavier and or wider, that might be a real boon for semi drivers too. The regs do not specify chain or straps, just how strong they need to be. There are some straps with carbon fiber strands in them that I hear have terrific working load characteristics, but they're mainly used by the military I don't think the average joe could afford them when chain would have a similar capacity at a lot less cost.
Great video however the grill guard isnt adequate fo tie down application. Most tractors have a tube between the loader arms just behind the bucket. Run your chain thru it and boom it down
You mention a wll on the chains and straps. Curious do you have a wll on those stake pockets. Im pretty sure there is. And the front might not be the greatest place to hook to but the rear i feel is the most important do to a panic stop can exert more than the loads wieght vs even if you floor it youll only exert a fraction of the wieght
I agree, I think the rear tie point are good but the front points aren't load tie points, it's the grill guard and doesn't really have the strength to support the machines weight properly when excessive forces are applied. The tie down points on machinery are not just there to hold it in place from rolling back and forth when you start and stop but are there to keep the equipment attached to the trailer in the event of an accident or rollover. Definitely don't think the front grill guard has the structural support to do that I recommend finding another tie down point.
Around the 5 min mark you talk about tying down the boom on the mini extractor. Later when you tie down Johnny you put a seperate tie down on the post hole digger, wouldn't the FEL bucket also require a seperate tie down? I looked on the website you mentioned but did not see anything specific.
Even if you have a CFR 49 Book in your hands it’s already outdated. They change the regulations enough that by the time it’s printed some of it is different.
Very informative video. We have both style binders at work the same exact ratcheting ones you have I like them very nice. I also do still like the old style snap binders for some occasions aswell.
When I used to ride Harley’s the motto was Trailers are for boats silly nilly lol Great info. They must have changed since the last time I hauled heavy equipment
EOSJOE remember there was a guy who drove to Daytona with an open air trailer. During his trip he got hammer with sleet, snow and rain mix. When he got to Daytona he boasted about it. Everyone blasted him on it saying your bike is ruined
I can see things being a bit tricky with those D-rings. The WLL marked is for the D-ring hardware itself. It doesn't apply to the bolts or the material it is bolted to. You could take a 5000 lb. D-ring and bolt it to a thin piece of sheet steel and it will tear right out long before 5000 lbs. Likewise with the bolts used. They could easily break long before 5000 lbs. That is why tie down points are so confusing and in many cases they end up being the weakest link in the entire tie down configuration.
Snap binders are alot better for wheeled equipment cause you can squat your tires a bit. I have 3 snaps and 4 ratchets. So i use 2 snaps and 2 ratchets. The 3 bottom i use 2 ratchets on it. I then like to put a 2 inch strap on the loader if i have 1 available. My tractor wieghs around 7k
I’m a retired truck driver. What I see you’ve done is overkill and I personally did the same. More on tie down can only be better. Hats off to you
Omg, so overkill. I have Kubota B7500 sub compact and I’ve never had a problem just using bungee cords and duct tape. Why would you need more? My tractor weighs 1,350 lbs.. it’s not going anywhere. You guys are silly.
I'll also add as a commercial driver the only time I know that chains are required is when you are hauling steel coils or structural steel. Straps are find for everything else as long as the straps meet the weight requirements. Hope this helps.
I am a commercial driver as well, You can use straps on coils as long as you use protection in between the strap and the steel. There is no rules in any book that says you cant use straps.
When you first started your Tuesday videos I wasn’t sure your material could be very interesting, but this was probably one of your top 10. I found that I am drastically undersized on my 1025 tie down. Very nice job, thanks for sharing.👍👏
Thanks Joe. I have taken a beating in the comments on today's video. Everyone seems to be picking at something.
I appreciate your kind words.
I also enjoyed this video and realized that I am not legal hauling my tractor on my trailer the way I currently do. I will be getting a few more chains and binders. I only used one 3/8" chain across the back and one up front both tightened to the corners with binders. Then one chain around the loader and bucket. Gonna be fixing this ASAP.
Truck and Trailer Tuesday is a great addition to your channel Tim. Thanks for providing all this information.
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I have watched many of these videos on how to tie down your tractor, I think you were the first one that did it right! I play by the rules unless I’m going a short distance. Then use one chain and one binder in the front and back.
I think you're the first person out of all those people that have ever talked about securement on RUclips that are actually said there's a regulation handbook manual talking about that stuff and the actual guidelines on FMCSA and of course your state Indiana.I'm so so glad that you actually talked about that because it's so different how few people understand
I got 4 of those ratchet straps for Christmas last year. They are FANTASTIC. So Handy for so many things .
I’m not sure you mentioned it, so I will. If you are hauling anything behind you that it taller than your vehicle, measure the highest point and mark it in a piece of tape. Then stick that piece of tape on your dash or top of your windshield so you know if you will clear that bridge or overpass up ahead. Or in Tim’s case maybe that drive through Cheeseburger place. Good video. I prefer chains.
Please remember GRAVITY is NOT a tie down. As a retired police officer you would not believe the number of people who would use gravity as a tie down and were surprised when they turned a corner and the tractor, track hoe, backhoe, trencher, bobcat or whatever came off the trailer.
I owned and operated a commercial transport hotshot business for around 5 or so years on and off. And am now a tow truck operator. Your tie downs match the legal requirements in Canada. The only thing I myself do differently is I like to criss cross my chains or straps on my trailer when hauling equipment or vehicles as they help prevent the machine from literally going in any direction. 2 crossed in the back and 2 crossed in the front plus the additional needing tie down on an attachment prevents the machine from going sideways, up, down, forward or backwards. Also really helps limit body roll when in wind or taking corners I find. Just my own personal preference that I like to use.
Several years ago, I pulled flatbed semi trailers and we used both chains and straps. We had 10000# chains and 7000# straps. I can't remember if it was federal regs or company policy, but our rule of thumb was to secure the load at a minimum of 150% of its' weight.
For example: a 40000# steel coil would be secured with six 10000# chains, or a 30000# load of lumber with seven 7000# straps.
Thanks for ALL of your videos and thanks for introducing me to so many great products.
PS: artillian grapple is being delivered tomorrow. Yeah!
Congrats on the grapple. Transforms the utility of your tractor!
Well done. This video answers a lot of questions. My tie down method will definitely improve .
This is a great video. It’s a tuff topic to address and appreciate the time you took to make it. Those straps are awesome.
You can use 1 chain on the front and 1 on the back but you do have to use a chain binder for each corner. Two chains and 4 binders now haven said that it does have to be two separate points of contact on the equipment not just looped thru as you mentioned I am a ex-flatbeder and over kill is always safer and doesn't take that muck more time really Great videos keep up the good work and we will keep tuning in to learn something new
Source?
Well Tim I don't know what people are talking about. I live in California one of the most strictest states and yes you can use straps. As long as you use strap protectors as you have. One thing I can pass on is that in California the Department of Transportation likes to see booms or any other attachments strapped down. Preferably straight across. The purpose of this is to prevent them from moving side to side. The concern is that with hydraulic bleed down they could move and strike something or someone next to your vehicle. You can always check your Department of Transportation website and or speak to a Department of Transportation Officer. I find that they are very helpful, willing to help and enjoy helping you understand the requirements. As I have been told. They would rather you ask than them be forced to catch you doing something the wrong way and having to site you for it. Great video keep up the great content and God bless.
People see that I used 10,000 lb straps to secure my Harley Davidson (with bags/fuel/oil/tools etc. around 750 lbs) and say "over-kill much?". LOL What they don't see are the other things I haul, ie. full size truck's, cars, boats.... What it comes down to: I'm not worried about me or my equipment, it's if my load were to shift and cause someone else to be injured or killed. Prevention of that is worth any extra money I spend on my "over-kill" straps, chains, links, or D-rings. Last: ALWAYS, yes, ALWAYS secure to the frame. Great information, thanks for making this video for others to learn from!
A good protective cover for the straps is a piece of fire hose. Thick and very abrasion resistant.
Great information on equipment tie downs. Hope you get a thumb for Casey all the plumbing is there. Thanks for sharing Tim.
Yep, working on it.
I personally would find a better spot to tie to on the front of the tractor. In an accident I don't think that grill guard would be an adequate anchor point. Good info though! Stay safe out there.
I agree. He has grab hooks on the loader, they look like Ken's bolt on hooks, that's what I use and they're great. Super easy to hook a chain on too. Almost as though that's what they're made for.
Yes, that strap should be connected the the frame of the tractor. Always go to the frame.
I agree that the grill guard is a little light to use as a tie down. I go around the axles when I tie down my farm tractors and technically he needs another tie down for the loader since it is considered an attachment.
@@dustinlantow7138 Do you guys think maybe he was baiting for comments with that one?
Have you guys even looked at the bolts, 4 of them, that holds that guard in place?
I know every 72hrs need check tiedowns if long haul.your right about your tie downs. I drove t/t 18yrs nice vid tks gary
Good stuff! Can't ever be too cautious when securing your loads. Me personally I use a shackle through the drawbar plate, an axle strap through that and 1 10K ratchet strap to each rear corner. Up front I use an axle strap around each axle, inboard of the knuckle; 1 10K strap to each corner. I do like the chafing gear you showed! I'll get a set to go around the corner of the bucket. And your est. for 1025 weights was spot on with mine. Thanks for the confirmation!
Enjoying these Truck and Trailer Tuesday segments on Tractor Time with Tim. Keep on posting videos Tim, the more you post the quicker I can get rid of cable tv for good!
I haven't watched TV since I discovered RUclips ..... :)
I'm glad that you actually mentioned that the abrasion protection on those straps that's the only reason why some people are kind of shy of straps is because they've had large abrasion issues but with having appropriate protection like that that is that is appropriate so very very good on that
The brush guard on the front of that tractor I was told by my local dealer will not hold the weight of the tractor during a tie down. You really need to get something like I got which mounts to the three bolts on the side of where the loader attaches. I wished I could send you a picture of them but unfortunately I don't know how to put a picture in the comment. But I found them on eBay they was pretty inexpensive and well worth the money. I got the ones that goes from front to back. In other words they have two holes in them and a tie down for each side. Therefore I can put my four point tie-down connection at that same point. They are awesome. Now I do like your straps for Johnny. I wish I could find some that heavy to use on mine. I may have to check out your store but I do not and have not ever used Amazon. Because they do not accept PayPal.
Thanks for the video Tim. Great info for a new tractor/trailer owner.
Thanks for this. I commonly see folks witn unsecured loads. I tend to give them a wide berth.
Well Tim my wife says it’s your fault that we are getting our first new tractor . A 2019 1023 e with loader, bush hog and box blade. Thanks. Your videos are a big help.
We always called those ratchet binders and the other type snap binders back in my steel hauler days. Good video Tim,God Bless 🙂
Tim, what would the WLL of the front brush guard be? Wouldn't that be much lower than the other points? I would think that best would be the front axle would be the best, but also think that the hooks on the bucket might be higher limits at least than the brush guard. Thanks and keep up the good work. Really appreciate the amount of time and effort you put into the videos.
Great info and good reference and description of how the calculations are done. I like that you over do the requirements for carrying your equipment!!! Stay safe...
On 1025s I always hooked my straps in the front part of the frame. I hauled brand new ones from the dealer to the customer
I was really looking foreword to a tie down video, thanks:-). I’m curious about the other options you mentioned to secure the front of Johnny. If the time ever comes I’ll look into those.
I love the research you have done. Perfect video. Usually the way I find out is by state police tickets. It is so hard to find the laws, just when you think you have it, you get another ticket. I have found out in the past not to ask the police officers they will tell you one thing only to find out the hard way he was wrong. Keep up the good work!
Tim a suggestion for Johnny why not just hook you straps to the chain hooks in your loader bucket they are way stronger than the grill guard. Keep the great videos coming nice work.
I know this is a late reply, but, the answer is that the bucket is not part of the frame AND connected to hydraulic cylinders that will eventually move while under pressure due to oil leaking past the seals in the cylinder. All cylinders will leak over time which would loosen your connection.
The WLL of any webbed straps (Such as those cargo straps you have) is also listed under appendix A of the cargo securement manual. You need to scroll down the table.
Also, as I keep hearing, it's never bad to over exceed the straps just in case someone doesnt fully understand. Nothing bad ever came from using a heavier tie down or heavier duty trailer.
That is correct.
@@TractorTimewithTim Yup, in this case, overkill is never bad.
Tim!, I would have been tongue tied doing this!! Very well done video!
Yep...just a fun tongue twister
Tim, thanks for an informative video regarding a very important safety related topic!
I haul heavy equipment and throughout the country if it’s over 10,000lbs you need 4 separate tie down attachment point and if it had an arm, boom or bucket that needs a separate straps.
TRUCKER ANDY I’ve seen plenty of guardrails that were wiped out by a boom/stick or bucket swinging to the side because the driver/loader/securer failed to properly secure it.
Nice set up I have a Kubota compact tractor la2505 and a old case 1835b skid steer
Also check with your insurance company about towing. I have State Farm and if an accident occurs my trailer is covered- but not the items loaded on the trailer. I had to take an additional policy (very reasonable at around $30 a month) to cover accident loss.
I tried using big ratchet straps to tie my tractor down. I did not find the ratchet straps to work reliably so I picked up grade 70 chain and boomers. I use a breaker bar to latch the boomers and NOTHING moves now. This is a great video, I'm glad you're doing this series.
You probably did the right thing. I like the concept of those retracting ratchet straps but if you read the reviews on Amazon quite a few people state that they fail in one way or another after just a few years of use. The failure is not such that it puts the load at risk but things like failure to lock, failure to retract, the plastic handle breaking, etc. It seems to be the way with all spring-loaded self-retracting devices. Any vacuum that I've ever owned with a spring loaded self-retracting power cord - it was usually the first thing to fail. :-)
Curt White Be careful with those breaker bars and pipe cheaters, had a good friend of mine loose his front teeth when one of those let go on him, wasn’t a very pretty sight ...
@@ibjeterhere Yikes! That sounds aweful. Hurts to just think about it. I really liked the ratcheting boomers Tim used to tie down the excavator. I think I might upgrade to a set of those.
They work well.
@@TractorTimewithTim yeah... $240 for a good set of boomers or several grand for a new set of teeth... I think those might make a nice stocking stuffer! ;)
Ok, call me a nerd, but I had to point out 11:20 you talked about having protection on the rubbed areas of the straps. I'm sorry, but my mind had to go to something dirty. Hope you don't mind me commenting that and thank you for the info. I am actually trying to learn how to safely haul equipment as I like running it and pulling stuff. Thank you for taking the time to teach us this.
When I bought my 1025r the first thing I did was build tie down hooks. Reason being was I might put tractor on one side of trailer and load materials on the other side of trailer. The heavy equipment generally has tie down hooks why nothing else does I can't figure out.
Good info.I just use the old school chain and boom system on 4 corners.
Just checked your amazon store for those nice retractable ratchets. I then realised they were nearly as expensive as the product itself to get them to me in the uk! I will have to find something similar here!
Them are nice rachet straps Tim never seen them before thanks Tim
Your on the mark with that info, and yes it can get confusing when looking at anything FMCSA. We have to watch training videos now every quarter for our safety program and although we knew how tie down for years the Gov had to come in an create instructions and guidelines. I’m not upset that they have done this because I remember the days when landscaping contractors and fly by night excavation outfits tied their equipment down with one chain or rope,yes I’ve seen it, I’ve watched two zero turn commercial mowers come off a trailer back in the late 90’s thank goodness it didn’t cause a catastrophe. Here in upstate NY the DOT watches the small contractors more than us class 8 guys you don’t see the crazy stuff you once did years ago and the fines are heavy as well.
A very helpful demonstration; a good start! Thanks.
Well done sir... the d.o.t Officer would be proud.... Just remember to keep your trailer Deck clear of any dirt or rocks When transporting machinery
I have the same chain binders and I love them of you were not aware they have a neutral position with the forward reverse lever so you don't have to listen to the ratcheting when spinning them by hand
Good point. Knew that, but forgot during filming. Too much to think about!
Thanks Tim & Christi for this video. I have to haul my tractor to the other sIide of town and it will be my first trailering. This video is a great referenceand I did go to FMCSA as suggested. Thanks.👍🏽🙂.
We have a few more videos on trailer rules, etc. check out the truck and trailer Tuesday playlist
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks so mush. I'll head to PL after this.🙂.
Makes me wonder how many laws I've actually violated over the years by not knowing any of these rules and just going by what I've learned from folks about tying down my stuff. Thanks for the very useful info gonna be changing how I secure my stuff.
Yes, it is difficult to understand these laws. My personal goal is to operate legally, even if I could get away with less. However, I’m finding it difficult to understand and implement the rules.
Tim, I will try to find the website reference to share with you, but when I first got my 1025R I did a little bit if digging to make sure I was legal when I would haul to friends and families houses to do work. I found that it was called out that not only does the machine need to be tied down with the appropriate WLL, but your implements do as well. So you would need a strap on your loader/bucket and post hole digger as well.
I was only aware of implements that could swing left or right for obvious reasons. But did not know the front loader bucket had to be tied down. I will research that.
@@danielscott9769 I could be mistaken, it was over almost 2 years ago when I did my preliminary research, I could be mixing it up with side to side movement
www.cvse.ca/nacs/NSC_10_Cargo%20Securement.pdf
Details are in there as to how what needs securing. This is applicable to North America
Another great video Tim. I try to ride my exercise bike 30 minutes in the evening. If I watch your videos while riding, the time goes faster. Maybe you should start a new series "Exercising with Tim". Figuring if a person exercises then they can eat more cheeseburgers.
Hmm. That sounds like Work!
Thank you for the Cargo Buckles tip, I ordered a half a dozen to start lol. I have a jd x575 at 1000 lbs (approximately) so they should be fine and very convenient looking.
Maybe I didn't see you strap the post hole down, but any and all attachments must be secured separately. FMC guide book.
a block of wood between the trailer deck and the boom bucket where it is resting near the cylinder rod
Very informative! Another great video, thank you Tim
Great comments on using facts. A good rule is "Don't mix your opinions with the facts" Know one owns the facts. great vid
I would wonder if your hood guard would be to flexible and if you should attach to the bucket hooks instead
The issue with connecting to the bucket hooks is that the bucket is hydraulically operated, and a leaky cylinder/valve/seal could allow the bucket to move and slacken the straps, which then may fall of the hooks and allow the machine to move to the rear and slacken those straps. Basically a similar situation to having to strap down booms and bucket on Casey or implements on the back of the tractor. Also the loader arms and bucket are both detachable and are supplied with maximum load ratings which would be way less than the total weight of the complete unit, so they in theory should not be used as tie down points. I would also guess that the hood guard is not structural and is probably not suitable for a tie down. For the Front end of Johnny, maybe a custom set of wheel straps for the front wheels might be the best option.
Thanks Tim, that was exactly what I've been looking for in information. Good Video!
Personally I use chain, I do use straps on the implements; The machine gets chain. I can't quote from any published information, however it was my understanding that implements required binding of some sort.
I do know that articulating equipment has to be made ridged for transport, because I have had to make plates to secure a machine for transport.
I couldn't tell you what the law is, and that really depends on how the cop interprets the actual law. I get held to a higher standard just because I have a class A CDL, make no mistake; I'm not a truck driver. So I tend to go overkill when it comes to securing a load and I check my trailer and load at welcome centers and fuel stops. I have had my car trailer from VA to FL and back a few times now without any issues.
When you get to your destination you can feel the tires, if one is hotter than the others, chances are it's low; Low tire pressure is the #1 cause of blow outs. You can feel the hubs, again if one is hotter than the others, you have a problem. I find it's better to keep an eye on your equipment to keep it in proper operating condition.
It only takes a few minutes to walk around, check lights, tires, hubs and tie downs. Loads can shift, straps slip
the cargo buckles are going on my Christmas List
Great video, as always. Thanks for doing the research and sharing.
Thanks David.
Very good video. Tieing down any machine can be a challange if the attachments get in the way. My tractor is 10 times the weight of Johnny and the factory made 4 eyelets in the frame for tiedown. Unfortunately the front shovel is in line with my trailers "D" rings and chassis eyelets. We had to have additional "D" rings added to the trailer to keep tiedown chains uninterupted. The backhoe can lock to the tractor but we chain it down to have a lower transport height. You don't want to loop over or under ever.
In case you where wondering immi is Indiana Mills Manufacturing Inc. , they make most of the seat belts in American cars. I designed some equipment for them in one of my previous lives (aka jobs)
They no longer go by Indiana Mills. Rather, they use IMMI as their name. Christy worked there for awhile until she quit to go full-time TTWT.
Good content as usual. Nice job.
Tim, no way that the front tie down on Johnny is adequate. It needs to be tied down to the tractor frame or axle.
Great video! This is overlooked a lot, I really appreciate all the time and research you shared here too. Well done!
Do you have a source for a chain gauge to check both the nominal size but also checks to see if the chain links have stretched too far?
As usual you did a get job clearing things up
Thank you Tim
I love my hydraulic driven post hole digger on my KX 41 3v Kubota excavator because it makes me over 5,000 a year in post holes and sonotubes. Good for filler work, thanks again for all your entertainment
great video as always. I didnt want to fork out the money for a ratcheting turnbuckle but boy am I glad I did. People have to keep in mind usually these chains and turnbuckles you only have to buy once (not so much for the straps as they can deteriorate after a while especially with the UV rays from the sun. Normally you don't leave your tractor or equipment tied down for days and days in the sun either ) But I really like auto retract straps and yes if they make heavier duty ones Id buy them.
For my JOHN DEERE 335 And GT235 there are holes in the front of the main frame I hook into and for the rear I use the holes for aligning the rear attachments or you can use the hitch hole but I tend to not use it to prevent from enlarging it as they tend to if your not using the correct size pin
At work we transport a John deere 410 l backhoe almost daily and to my knowledge florida law requires a 5th tie down over the bucket our mini crews also tie down the buckets
I live in Georgia and was a delivery truck driver for two JD dealerships. The law here also requires a separate tie down for a loader or backhoe. So a tractor with both a loader and a backhoe would require six tie downs. The grill guard is not acceptable. The frame or a front axle is required for a tie down.
The only thing I do different is the pattern of the tiedowns. I go from the back of the equipment(when loaded nose first) to the front of the trailer and from the front of the equipment to the back of the trailer and chris-cross if possible. Why? Can't remember but my grand-dad taught me this method almost 50 years ago.Seems like it does prevent load from side shifting.
On my dozer (20,000 pounds) and backhoes(16,000 pounds) I use 5 chains (3/8"). On tractors to 9000 pounds I use 4 straps(2").
One thing I noticed is the debris on your trailer deck. In Texas that will get you pulled over faster than a tie down inspection.Always keep a broom in the back of the truck.
Tim - you should probably mention that the Cargobuckles that you are demonstrating do NOT come with a hook or anyway to attach them to your trailer other than permanently with a single bolt. I'm assuming you bought the hooks shown on yours separately. Which of course increases the cost of an already very expensive ratchet strap. I noticed in the Cargobuckle reviews that quite a few folks were surprised to find that when their buckles arrived there was no way to attach them.
Your doing great Tim, your using quality equipment which is essential, besides I’m very jealous of that backhoe ...
Years ago I did a lot of lashing on cargo ships & rail flatcars, first of stick with chains and always cross them so they pull against each other, I like those ratchet straps but have had them let go on me on bumpy roads, just say’n ...
Also never trust d-rings, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen them break, just consider the load you put on those lashings if you had to make an emergency stop, stick with chains whenever possible, these are just things I found out over many years & are too be taken with a grain of salt & I still would like to have that Case backhoe :)
Should've, would've, could've. You see the hydraulic post hole digger that attaches to your backhoe? You know if you search RUclips for jd 1025r your name comes up frequently? Hmmm. I wonder why. I'd give all your videos a like, but it fills up my que. Another great video from the stars of southern Indiana.
Tim, it appears that if you want hooks at both ends you would need to buy four of those in addition to the buckles?
Hey Tim. I did read on a tag of a new Pull over binder as you call it, that you are not to use a cheater bar on them at all. I tried to find a link to it but had no luck.
Great Informative video Tim. You have a lot of good information and products to use on this video. I must admit when you were going over the calculations of the aggregate working load limit i got a headache LOL. Tim please pray for my mother in law. Hope you and your family have a happy and blessed Thanksgiving. God Bless!!!
Thanks. Will be praying.
Great info.
The biggest problem I have found in different regions, is the officers who enforce them, do not really know. You could ask any 2 officers in the same region, questions, and 75% of their answers are different.
Best to error on the side of overkill I have always found.
Though I don't know if those rules apply in all states, the way you explained it sounds sensible and logical. I'm not all together sure about the tie down straps, but I've never tied down a load like you have, only small loads on pickups, or huge loads on flatbed semis. They would not be acceptable on a large semi truck, unless the load was extremely light but bulky like large diameter PVC pipe or something on that order, and even then I'm not certain they would pass muster. Been a long time since I've needed to do anything like that, and hopefully will be a very long time until I need to try it again. However, those straps are head and shoulders above the usual kind. If they could make them heavier and or wider, that might be a real boon for semi drivers too. The regs do not specify chain or straps, just how strong they need to be. There are some straps with carbon fiber strands in them that I hear have terrific working load characteristics, but they're mainly used by the military I don't think the average joe could afford them when chain would have a similar capacity at a lot less cost.
Thanks for the info!…planning on purchasing a tractor, but also need a trailer
Great video however the grill guard isnt adequate fo tie down application. Most tractors have a tube between the loader arms just behind the bucket. Run your chain thru it and boom it down
Hi Tim ,of all , the toys we can use, here but not the post digger .for we we are on a rack Rock
bed and have dig them by hand.
That's ok. I can't stand the post hole digger anyway!!! ...even with our heaven-like soil!
I believe Johnny should be loaded with front end toward the rear of the trailer. JD 1025R operator's manual Pg 100-1.
You mention a wll on the chains and straps. Curious do you have a wll on those stake pockets. Im pretty sure there is. And the front might not be the greatest place to hook to but the rear i feel is the most important do to a panic stop can exert more than the loads wieght vs even if you floor it youll only exert a fraction of the wieght
I agree, I think the rear tie point are good but the front points aren't load tie points, it's the grill guard and doesn't really have the strength to support the machines weight properly when excessive forces are applied. The tie down points on machinery are not just there to hold it in place from rolling back and forth when you start and stop but are there to keep the equipment attached to the trailer in the event of an accident or rollover. Definitely don't think the front grill guard has the structural support to do that I recommend finding another tie down point.
Around the 5 min mark you talk about tying down the boom on the mini extractor. Later when you tie down Johnny you put a seperate tie down on the post hole digger, wouldn't the FEL bucket also require a seperate tie down? I looked on the website you mentioned but did not see anything specific.
I suspect the loader boom would require a separate tiedown as you mention. I usually do not use a separate tiedown, honestly.
@@TractorTimewithTim thanks for clarifying! Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!
Even if you have a CFR 49 Book in your hands it’s already outdated. They change the regulations enough that by the time it’s printed some of it is different.
yup, no kidding
Very informative video. We have both style binders at work the same exact ratcheting ones you have I like them very nice. I also do still like the old style snap binders for some occasions aswell.
I really like those cargo buckles but I only use safety hooks not the standard hooks I've had the standard hooks come off one to many times.
You could probably replace the ends.
When I used to ride Harley’s the motto was Trailers are for boats silly nilly lol
Great info. They must have changed since the last time I hauled heavy equipment
The last time I was in Daytona for Bike Week I saw more Harley's on trailers than I could count. :-)
EOSJOE remember there was a guy who drove to Daytona with an open air trailer. During his trip he got hammer with sleet, snow and rain mix. When he got to Daytona he boasted about it. Everyone blasted him on it saying your bike is ruined
I can see things being a bit tricky with those D-rings. The WLL marked is for the D-ring hardware itself. It doesn't apply to the bolts or the material it is bolted to. You could take a 5000 lb. D-ring and bolt it to a thin piece of sheet steel and it will tear right out long before 5000 lbs. Likewise with the bolts used. They could easily break long before 5000 lbs. That is why tie down points are so confusing and in many cases they end up being the weakest link in the entire tie down configuration.
Yep.
those ratchet straps are awesome
Snap binders are alot better for wheeled equipment cause you can squat your tires a bit. I have 3 snaps and 4 ratchets. So i use 2 snaps and 2 ratchets. The 3 bottom i use 2 ratchets on it. I then like to put a 2 inch strap on the loader if i have 1 available. My tractor wieghs around 7k
Not sure about y'all, but I got two John Deere commercials and one of them was useful, I do need a compact wheel loader for a future farm🤣
Great video Tim. God bless you'll