I understand your comment about more paint being counterintuitive. With more paint, cool temps... the paint will lie down against the surface. The trick is also not to roll over the paint too many times and lift it.
Benjamin Moore Advance, in semi-gloss. It's a water based alkyd enamel. It's a very durable paint suitable for doors. Oil base will be even more durable, but I'd advise wearing a VOC cartridge respirator due to fumes and expecting a day to dry and a week to cure.
@@Interior_Works thank you so same as the method in the video with oil based then ? As the door I'm doing is for the bathroom, thank you for your reply.
Method is the same, except I'd go with a 1/4" nap instead of a 3/8". What I talked about in video about putting paint on heavier for it to stay wet longer so it can self-level isn't as necessary for oil based, it'll level smooth even if it's put on thinner as it takes hours to dry. Also, for oil base, ideally a natural bristle brush or chinex, but an all-purpose synthetic will work ok.
@@Interior_Works brilliant thanks you, I was just going to use the standard foam 4 inch roller as it's oil based paint I always thought that would be the case.
Foam roller won't work well with oil base as it's consistency is too thick to absorb into the foam, paint will end up just smearing around. Oil base will level smooth, almost looking like it was sprayed even if applied with a nap roller. Foam rollers always seem to leave a slight stipple texture that stays, roller marks, and sometimes microbubbles. I should really make a comparison video, but I can always get a smoother finish by laying on a thick water based coat with a nap roller, to allow it to self-level smooth vs the finish of a foam roller. I've spent a lot of time trying to make foam rollers work for me, both low density, high density, thinking that being foam they _should_ make a smoother finish, but it's all problems, at least in my experience.
Thanks. I use Benjamin Moore for most fine interior repainting. On rental repaints, I like Sherwin Williams Promar 200 for price and coverage, and speed. I don't do too much new construction painting, but our local painting contractors mostly use SW.
I'd recommend Benjamin Moore Advance, in semi-gloss. It's a waterborne alkyd that levels nice on application, cleans well, and resists dings and scuffs. A bit pricey but because of the abuse doors take, it's best to use a high quality product.
Couldn't agree more. Mentioned in the video, I take all hardware and knobs off, also mentioned is this specific knob had over-paint on it from the previous painter or home owner (which is very common) so I used it as an opportunity to show how a knob _could_ be painted around without getting paint on it, although I personally take them off. Reason for the demonstration is because the reality is many many DIY'ers won't and don't take the knobs off, even though they and everyone knows the knobs should be removed. It's just how it is, and how it will continue to be, I'm not judging. So at least I'll try showing them a demonstration how to quickly paint around a knob (if thats what they choose to do) without getting paint on the Knob.
@@Interior_Works Of course not for just one door, but I was doing the entire kitchen, so with it already out and set up, I did all 13 doors outside, and it took more time taking the hardware off than painting them,…
I usually use the brush first then come in with the roller. Helps me get rid of the gloops/cascades. Especially when I'm rushing.
I understand your comment about more paint being counterintuitive. With more paint, cool temps... the paint will lie down against the surface. The trick is also not to roll over the paint too many times and lift it.
That's exactly it. Heavier coat and cooler temp = smoother finish. But not so much that it sags with gravity.
Awesome video .. very helpful stuff .keep the videos coming
Thanks
which paint type are you using for the door? Or what works best?
Can you please advise what roller you are using please
Purdy white dove 4.5" length. 3/8" nap.
What this type of door is called??
Excellent video of painting process of the front door,would it be okay to start with the panels first??
What kind of roller are you using? Is it foam or nap roller?
Thanks for sharing
Oil paint water based paint ?
Benjamin Moore Advance, in semi-gloss. It's a water based alkyd enamel. It's a very durable paint suitable for doors. Oil base will be even more durable, but I'd advise wearing a VOC cartridge respirator due to fumes and expecting a day to dry and a week to cure.
@@Interior_Works thank you so same as the method in the video with oil based then ? As the door I'm doing is for the bathroom, thank you for your reply.
Method is the same, except I'd go with a 1/4" nap instead of a 3/8". What I talked about in video about putting paint on heavier for it to stay wet longer so it can self-level isn't as necessary for oil based, it'll level smooth even if it's put on thinner as it takes hours to dry. Also, for oil base, ideally a natural bristle brush or chinex, but an all-purpose synthetic will work ok.
@@Interior_Works brilliant thanks you, I was just going to use the standard foam 4 inch roller as it's oil based paint I always thought that would be the case.
Foam roller won't work well with oil base as it's consistency is too thick to absorb into the foam, paint will end up just smearing around. Oil base will level smooth, almost looking like it was sprayed even if applied with a nap roller. Foam rollers always seem to leave a slight stipple texture that stays, roller marks, and sometimes microbubbles. I should really make a comparison video, but I can always get a smoother finish by laying on a thick water based coat with a nap roller, to allow it to self-level smooth vs the finish of a foam roller.
I've spent a lot of time trying to make foam rollers work for me, both low density, high density, thinking that being foam they _should_ make a smoother finish, but it's all problems, at least in my experience.
Nice job and good video. Also appreciate you sharing your price. What is your paint preference? I just stick with Benjamin Moore.
Thanks. I use Benjamin Moore for most fine interior repainting. On rental repaints, I like Sherwin Williams Promar 200 for price and coverage, and speed. I don't do too much new construction painting, but our local painting contractors mostly use SW.
What paint is the best for interior doors ?
I'd recommend Benjamin Moore Advance, in semi-gloss. It's a waterborne alkyd that levels nice on application, cleans well, and resists dings and scuffs. A bit pricey but because of the abuse doors take, it's best to use a high quality product.
What kind of roller nap?
dude messed up by leaving door handle on or not masking it
Messing up would be getting paint on the handle
Take the knob off first....it only takes like 30 seconds to take a door knob off.
Couldn't agree more. Mentioned in the video, I take all hardware and knobs off, also mentioned is this specific knob had over-paint on it from the previous painter or home owner (which is very common) so I used it as an opportunity to show how a knob _could_ be painted around without getting paint on it, although I personally take them off.
Reason for the demonstration is because the reality is many many DIY'ers won't and don't take the knobs off, even though they and everyone knows the knobs should be removed. It's just how it is, and how it will continue to be, I'm not judging.
So at least I'll try showing them a demonstration how to quickly paint around a knob (if thats what they choose to do) without getting paint on the Knob.
30 seconds to spray that door,…..🤷🏽♂️
Yes, but is it worth it setting up a paint machine for one door?
@@Interior_Works Of course not for just one door, but I was doing the entire kitchen, so with it already out and set up, I did all 13 doors outside, and it took more time taking the hardware off than painting them,…