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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- Replacing a component on this board proved a challenge. Not sure if an equipment issue or the guy doing the repair just sucks, but an attempt is made either way.
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Bro i hate the feeling when the ting I'm trying to fix doesn't work in the end, i feel you man.
I have an identical 390X Nitro on my desk with a bad fuse - was going to attempt the same thing but after finishing this video.. dang!
nice attempt anyway.
A valiant attempt. I admire your patience. Very interesting to see your diagnosis of the problem.
Small tip for you - don't put in the title whether a repair was a success or a failure. For me at least part of the fun with watching repair videos, particularly electronics (and also engines), is the initially uncertain outcome and following along with the technician/engineer as the repair unfolds. Stating that the repair failed in the title has kind of 'spoiled' it. I would instead suggest that you add to the title of future repair videos something like: "Can I fix it?" 🙂
Honestly, I wasn't all too happy with the way this video turned out, so it sat unfinished for a while, staring at me in a judgemental manner every time I opened up the video editor. I have several videos in the works that I'm waiting on parts for or I need to order parts for and I didn't have anything else ready for today, so I begrudgingly decided to finish it. But I really appreciate the feedback and I'll try to keep results more of a mystery.
@@ThatElectronicsFool No problem, thanks. 🙂
I just feel everything. Its So relateable.
Very nice Video.
Thanks!
pretty good quality video 60 fps , and better from that its was nice tutorial on how to solder thos crazy crap IR3553M
That sounds like a bad driver and or controller since it popped the replacement power stage, it's likely the original power stage killed the source of the pwm signal when it died.
Since the output was shorted to 12v it is very likely that the core is dead if it's a memory phase or vddci or whatever minor low power rail, if it's a core phase you have a chance since it's a low impedance short to ground and will blow the fuse quicker or trip OCP on your power supply.
This is why you always measure resistances on a gpu before powering it on, at the very least measure 12v to ground becuae that's where the majority of the rails derive their power from, anything >1k ohm is a concern but I'll risk it if it doesn't matter much, anything >300ohm is a stop and disconnect inductors or 0.8v injection to me to find the short
Gpu pcbs are built to soak heat, higher preheater temps are better but you might need to remove any electrolytic capacitors near the fault since those like popping and soldering temp
Thanks for the info. I have next to no experience in GPU repair, but if I ever try to mess with one in the future, I'll try to keep some of these tips in mind.
Dang I'm frustrated after watching this.
what microscop you use can you give me the link ?
Unfortunately, the one I'm using in the video isn't available anymore, and there's no link for it, but I had purchased it from Northridge Fix. It's a blue one that doesn't have a model number or anything printed on it, so I don' t know if this exact unit is available elsewhere either. Northridge Fix has replaced it with another model that has similar design and accessories:
northridgefix.com/product/microscope-camera-bundle-1080-60fps-180x-lens-ring-adapter-2-barlow-lenses-0-5x-0-75x/
did you check fuses on the back?
There weren't any on the back of this card that I saw. Just the ones on the component side. There's a polyfuse on the back, but it's by the display outputs. That was fine.