I wound up redoing the liner here ruclips.net/video/ruNd2mA7i6g/видео.html Turns out it was way easier the second time since I knew what to expect. Pretty straight forward. Good luck. Ps my boiler is still fine
Thanks for video , will be watching again tomorrow, o had furnace guy come and service my 30 yr old New Yorker oil burner, the insulation where the flame comes out was on the the bottom of combustion chamber, called me back two days later claimed it would cost $1700 to fix😵💫, needless t say o price a new combustion chamber kit at supply store $250. I’m gonna try it myself, any tips ? Thanks again!
Yes. If you haven’t already look on supplyhouse.com. Don’t want to take the business away from the local guys but they have everything and most are over night. Really great prices also. Surprised your guy would even do the job. Most won’t. Watch the other video I made fixing the broken rear wall. I did this job twice. Way easier the second time around. If the chamber kit walls don’t fit, they easily file down. Use either a large metal file, or rub the end against concrete. Don’t force anything into place. You may need to disconnect the oil line. If you have to do that, make sure you know how to bleed the line of air. Last thing. Get a good respirator. Like a p100 if you have ever painted in a booth. If you have it, use it. If not get an n95 cause the old chamber will crumble and make a mess. Good luck.
Here is the redo. ruclips.net/video/ruNd2mA7i6g/видео.html and I just checked supplyhouse.com. Almost everything is out of stock. Hope you can get what you need locally. If you can’t call patriotsupply in NY. They have everything.
I've been in the hvac field for 17 years now, the boiler you have is a tank!.. to be honest the combustion chamber is important, retains the heat to completely but the oil and also won't remain hot after it shutdown.. keeps oil nozzle and electrodes alive longer, you can run it without a chamber but it will soot up and need cleaning often cant do this long term or will burn a hole it the boiler then u need a new boiler
If your not using the domestic coil for hot water next boiler u buy make sure it doesn't have the plate bolted on it bc they're a common place for leaks if its ok with u ive got other tips I'll share
@@mikefoster4105 anything you can share I’m willing to listen. I just cleaned it for the first time a few weeks ago. It’s running fine so far this season. Here’s my first attempt and there wasn’t much soot in there to be honest. Thanks very much for commenting. And expertise. ruclips.net/video/yD-OPLdasa8/видео.html
My stupidity was pissiong me off so much I got a second kit and redid it. But not for a couple of months. Turns out that stuff shrinks back a little as it cures so there was a fairly good sized crack when I opened the chamber to redo it. I could see the back wall. Would that have caused a failure? Probably not. I could have just bought a 1 foot piece of that high temp wool and put it in front of the tear but it’s fixed now. Thanks for commenting. Moral of the story which applies to everything in life…..don’t force it.
You're right but it was really bugging me so I redid it. After a few months the split was much worse than it looked. Here is the redo video. You can see how big the split was around the 7 minute mark ruclips.net/video/ruNd2mA7i6g/видео.html Thanks for commenting though
I watch your first video when you try to clean it, now you're shutting the valve off. Don't forget there's got air bubbles in the oil line, you'll have to let the oil on breathe to call compassion, but anyway, hope you're smart. Good luck
I do appreciate the comments so thanks. Yeah, you have to bleed the air out. There is a bleeder valve. You push the button to start it running and open the bleeder and jump the R R lines which bypasses the cat eye safety so it will stay running until there are no air bubbles. Then you close the bleeder and remove tbe jumper and it should fire up. Anyone working on these has to know how to do that. Even for a filter change
Well, I bought another kit and im going to redo it.
Thank you for sharing this video. I have the same problem and the company said I need to get a new one. You just gave me some ideas.
I wound up redoing the liner here ruclips.net/video/ruNd2mA7i6g/видео.html
Turns out it was way easier the second time since I knew what to expect. Pretty straight forward. Good luck. Ps my boiler is still fine
Thanks for video , will be watching again tomorrow, o had furnace guy come and service my 30 yr old New Yorker oil burner, the insulation where the flame comes out was on the the bottom of combustion chamber, called me back two days later claimed it would cost $1700 to fix😵💫, needless t say o price a new combustion chamber kit at supply store $250. I’m gonna try it myself, any tips ? Thanks again!
Yes. If you haven’t already look on supplyhouse.com. Don’t want to take the business away from the local guys but they have everything and most are over night. Really great prices also. Surprised your guy would even do the job. Most won’t. Watch the other video I made fixing the broken rear wall. I did this job twice. Way easier the second time around. If the chamber kit walls don’t fit, they easily file down. Use either a large metal file, or rub the end against concrete. Don’t force anything into place. You may need to disconnect the oil line. If you have to do that, make sure you know how to bleed the line of air. Last thing. Get a good respirator. Like a p100 if you have ever painted in a booth. If you have it, use it. If not get an n95 cause the old chamber will crumble and make a mess. Good luck.
Here is the redo. ruclips.net/video/ruNd2mA7i6g/видео.html and I just checked supplyhouse.com. Almost everything is out of stock. Hope you can get what you need locally. If you can’t call patriotsupply in NY. They have everything.
Thanks for the sharing and information...
I've been in the hvac field for 17 years now, the boiler you have is a tank!.. to be honest the combustion chamber is important, retains the heat to completely but the oil and also won't remain hot after it shutdown.. keeps oil nozzle and electrodes alive longer, you can run it without a chamber but it will soot up and need cleaning often cant do this long term or will burn a hole it the boiler then u need a new boiler
If your not using the domestic coil for hot water next boiler u buy make sure it doesn't have the plate bolted on it bc they're a common place for leaks if its ok with u ive got other tips I'll share
@@mikefoster4105 anything you can share I’m willing to listen. I just cleaned it for the first time a few weeks ago. It’s running fine so far this season. Here’s my first attempt and there wasn’t much soot in there to be honest. Thanks very much for commenting. And expertise. ruclips.net/video/yD-OPLdasa8/видео.html
I think it will just cure
My stupidity was pissiong me off so much I got a second kit and redid it. But not for a couple of months. Turns out that stuff shrinks back a little as it cures so there was a fairly good sized crack when I opened the chamber to redo it. I could see the back wall. Would that have caused a failure? Probably not. I could have just bought a 1 foot piece of that high temp wool and put it in front of the tear but it’s fixed now. Thanks for commenting. Moral of the story which applies to everything in life…..don’t force it.
fantastic
Thanks. It's about time for me to get to work again. I think I need a new transformer. It sometimes doesn't fire. Arrgh. Thanks for commenting.
You couldn’t even see the break after it was installed. I would leave it alone.
You're right but it was really bugging me so I redid it. After a few months the split was much worse than it looked. Here is the redo video. You can see how big the split was around the 7 minute mark ruclips.net/video/ruNd2mA7i6g/видео.html Thanks for commenting though
I watch your first video when you try to clean it, now you're shutting the valve off. Don't forget there's got air bubbles in the oil line, you'll have to let the oil on breathe to call compassion, but anyway, hope you're smart. Good luck
I do appreciate the comments so thanks. Yeah, you have to bleed the air out. There is a bleeder valve. You push the button to start it running and open the bleeder and jump the R R lines which bypasses the cat eye safety so it will stay running until there are no air bubbles. Then you close the bleeder and remove tbe jumper and it should fire up.
Anyone working on these has to know how to do that. Even for a filter change
You know why you're taking up the heat clay that is a bad move
All I removed was the same thing that I replaced. I redid it properly by the way. It was just brown cause it was subject to years of heat
It should be kept as clean as possible also.