A Very Simple Mitre Saw Station
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- Опубликовано: 27 янв 2022
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I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
Hey Scott love your work , As a builder who lost an eye due to a drop saw would love to see you wearing safety glasses more ! eyes are more important than ears! Look forward to the next episode of your journey!
How did you lose youre eye?
As someone that worked in trades but had to retire because I'm going blind. I have a degenerative condition. Safety glasses always. Trust me eyesight is something you want to keep.
@@notsieb1040he said from a drop saw. Use your imagination. 🤷♂️
I'm watching this video on 30th January over here in Oz. It would've been my Dad's birthday. He passed away in 1985, too young at 61. Dad was a carpenter and would 've loved to see this video. He was an old school chippy, built the family home, but he LOVED building boxes for gear and solving issues like this in your video. With all the modern equipment that's hit the shelves since 1985, I'm pretty certain my Dad would have loved to use them. But he had an impressive set of hammers, saws, chisels and planers and was just starting to get into routing machines when he passed. Carry on this great instructional type of videos, it helps explain a lot about how things get built.
I'd definitely recommend a ducted heat pump, I do this sort of work for a living. Super efficient and you can turn them on and forget about them/programme them to come on at certain times before you get up in the morning etc. I would be cautious on installing underfloor heating though unless you enjoy your power bill almost doubling!
If you are using electric floor heat, yes that will be expensive but if you use hyronic floor heat it’s extremely efficient once it reaches the set temperature.
@@dunx101 Yup, I built a few years back and hydronic UFH was the best investment I made.
So I'm doing ducted in AKL before winter. What I found interesting is that the efficiency of the units (COP and EER) goes down the higher kW the unit is.
Also seem to be (with the couple brands I looked into) that high-wall units are slightly more efficient (i.e. a 5kW high-wall vs a 5kW ducted)
Having said all that, I'm going to still get ducted. The set-and-forget is nice, but also I don't like the look of high-walls unless you have ample space (like high ceilings)
Ducted Heat Pump
Do any of the heat pumps help to remove humidity when being used to heat a house. My new Fujitsu heat pump has a "dry function" that basically cools the air to condense moisture from the air like a normal A/C unit would do, but won't heat at the same time. I find in winter running the fire is better to heat the whole house and dry it out.
Building a mitre station for a Festool rig with a Makita saw is savage
Very good, I was thinking chop saw to serve a chop saw 😁
They use the same tracks so it is okay
Noticed that too. Must play some role in why Festool lasts quite long. It hardly gets used. ha ha
Yes I found that amusing 😄 Brother has the Festool and swears by it
@@mozki1 They're just so damned expensive.
Stoked for you guys and the progression of your journey together but I'm glad you’re back to making actual carpentry videos. Nice work on the bench!
Heat pump.
Mini split cassette unit.
Will fit in between your standard rafters that are 24 inches on center.
That way you don’t have anything mounted on the wall as an eyesore.
And you can add multiple heads to one single outdoor unit.
We live in sunny Florida and I do HVAC for a living.
Plenty of options on the market, well I’m not sure what you got there in your area.
Love the channel you guys are doing great so far
Completely agree, only issue is the cassette style units tend to be really expensive in Australia/NZ like double the equivalent kW compared to wall mount.
Don't use a single outdoor unit for multi 'heads'. We have 3 heads on one unit. Price difference between this and individual outdoor units per head, 3 in our case, was next to nothing. But I would go individual if I could redo. Noise is an issue (pipe noise), not being able to have certain seperate modes going if one unit is on heat or cool is another.
@@JR-ii4lq I would say it somewhat comes down to personal preference🤷🏼♂️. Simple single unit outside is less eye sores. Lol. You will need added electrical to each outdoor unit too. In my experience haven’t run into needing cooling and heating on separate head units at same time. At least not in our climate. Maybe diff where you are at. Good stuff JR.
@@YouNeedToCalmDown76 what y’all looking at price wise? We can get them 500-1100 (just the indoor). depending on manufacture.
I agree, if they insulate first. No point in having an elaborate heating system if you throw the heat out of the windows.
The content is just so chill. I cannot express how relaxing these videos are to watch.. makes my day!
Hey Margaret, Jess bought her worm farm! Just thought you should know.
As a fellow South islander, living in a 1950s Weatherboard house with minimum insulation my advice is heat pump. We have two for the house, and are putting in a smart vent system too in a few weeks. The first winter here we had just the one heat pump in the lounge and it didn't quite make it to the bedrooms. Put a second one in the hall and it's toasty warm, just working on the air quality for my girls this winter. Ducted heatpump would be my dream for down here.
Worm farm stuff - I found I gave it way too much food scraps and my fertilizer has been too nitrogen rich, needs way more brown waste, leaves paper etc to balance it out.
I've always loved watching your content, but I've found since you have moved to the south island and are renovating your own place I can relate more and am enjoying it more! Shot bro
Scott I totally forgot to mention, when you plant your garden keep all of your egg shells, the phosphorus in the shells will give your garden a huge boost.
If there are any chicken farms around, see about acquiring some of the tailings left by the chickens. Water it down and add it to your mulch, it will stink but you'll have the best gardens around.
That bench is mint! Jess continues to add to the channel with her mere presence lol. My Mrs loves her. Now I'm thinking I'll do my workbench the same way. Great content and just good to see you and Jess progress in the new place. Also my 3 "But can he hang a door?" T-shirts arrived in the mail. Awesome stuff😁
Jess, my very good friend literally wrote the book on worm farming! It's called "The Best Place for Garbage" and can be found on Amazon (in the US. Not sure about NZ) in e-book format. Good luck!
Scott, thanks for all you have taught me and the many hours of entertainment you have given me.
Did a similar thing in my garage with my Kapex. One word of caution, don’t leave you saw at 90 degrees bring back tight in (60 degrees) because when you walk in into it bringing something in, it hurts, the big black knob makes a big back bruise. Don’t ask how I know.
Heating, get a log burner if you can, such a great feature to have and when it is cold nothing better than real flame. Can also boost a heat pump’s heat too if it gets really cold
And emergency heat/cooking if/when power goes out.
@@slowly_radish8374 very true, used ours for that too. Even most gas systems use an electric fan and or pumps
Yes, here in Eastern Canada a wood stove, or log burner(?) brings peace of mind knowing there is at least a plan B for when electric goes out. The come in small sizes if need be so to conserve space. Heat pump appears to be quite common to have as primary. The question to ask is when power goes out, how frequently does it happen? Maybe a wood stove isn't worth having if infrequent outages and if you would be infrequently working during an outage anyway🤔💡🇨🇦🍁
Climate change is making our adverse weather MORE adverse & if there's no hot food, I hate to miss out on the last cheese & cracker. 😉
@@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs wood burner / log burner always worth having as it makes great TV substitute when the power goes off as well as the heat 😁
Scott & Jess - heating: highly recommend heat pump + thermal store (+ solar thermal) with a wet underfloor heating system. Heat pump and solar thermal both produce heat efficiently to a max of approx 52C which is the optimum temp for wet underfloor heating. Using a 'plug & play' thermal store will enable both to work together in whatever mix suits each season. The key to effective ufh (esp retrofit) is detailing the perimeter / edge insulation correctly so you don't have any 'leaky' spots.
Main question would be is current floor on a solid slab, or are they suspended timber floors? I can't remember if you've said before.
It's suspended/stumped house not slab
a heat pump with underfloor wet heating is a very good combo. I know here in the UK you can get underfloor heating set ups as slim as 15mm that are designed to go over your sub floor so they are really good for renovations like yours.
originally from belgium, living in nz. Yes underfloor heating is great but cost comparison is quite expensive.
These systems are great is you have slab on grade as you have the thermal mass in your advantage, bet then its better to have an insulated slab else you waste to much heat.
In your position I'd be looking ground source heat pump. Neighbour has 'Air Source' heat pump - 1Kw in for 4 Kw out; only needs additional heat on the coldest of days.
Wife and I are converts to underfloor heating. What is the floor construction? Timber floor then 100mm PIR or similar insulation up against floor boards and wet mat over the top with a motar skim. You can do each room with the mat as you work through the house.
To stop the damp 'feel' also add a heat exchanging ventilation system. Humidistats in bathroom and kitchen.
Insulate the walls - but guess you don't telling that.
@@Afourteen-yf5ks Yes, aggree on ground source heatpumps are good but expensive. Haven't seen them allot in nz. Air to air or air to water are the most common here.
also new zealand homes are leaky to start with, installing insulation just in the walls without looking at airtightness and vapor control can have the wrong outcomes.
Insulation stops only radiant heat and not convective or conductive.
If you would do more airtightness i would recommend getting an hrv or erv installed, while your add it upgrage the filter to a high quality one. You will notice the difference.
Please please please can we have an episode of Jess and her new worm farm!
Hey Scott & Jess, enjoy your channel, great work. I noticed in a shot of the van, there looks like the start of some rust, above the windscreen. Just a warning, it can be be a large pita, if that is corrosion (for Wof and repairs). Might have been dirt, but might be a a quick, cheap, easy repair, if it is just starting to corrode. cheers
Long time viewer here Scott, living and working in Christchurch. Sparky also specializes in putting in heatpumps primarily for work.
Ducted unit is the way to go to heat up a whole home with a Losnay working in tandem alongside it to bring fresh, filtered, clean air into your home, depending on budget of course. Heats up areas in living and bedrooms if designed well and correctly. Does really good for allergy sufferers too
If thats too much then highwall heatpump will do well in the living area and perhaps another in the hall for the bedrooms, depending that there is enough space to mount a unit on the wall in those areas that can move the air around really well!
Keep up the awesome work Scott and Jess! Best of luck moving forward with the house and the business up there in Nelson !
US East Coaster here.
100% heat your floors. It’s amazing how well it warms up a place and having your feet warm weirdly makes your whole body feel warm.
I have an addition that has heated floors with a European style radiator panel. And it’s where I go to warm up. Because of the rad panel and the heated floors it almost gets too warm!
The rest of my house is European style radiator panels and occasionally I’ll turn on the heat pumps, that I almost exclusively use for AC, to supplement them on super cold days. But hands down heated floors are the way to go.
Awesome project Scott! Regarding heating. I would go with an air to water heatpump with floor heating through the whole house, a tad more expensive to setup but it gives a great climate and it give you your hot water for showers as well!
I first began watching your channel while helping renovating the house I currently own. That didn't go well. I'm considering selling this one and trying again; BUT, I think I'll watch your progress before making any plans. It might be the editing but you seem pretty chill about the experience. That's inspiring.
Ducted heat pump for sure. We live across the straight in Wellington and when we bought this place back in 2020 the only heating it had was those terrible wall mounted ‘eco’ panels, they did absolutely nothing to heat the house and only heated the air about half a meter in front of them. We installed a ducted heat pump system last year and it was the best decision we’ve made so far. Not just for keeping it warm in winter but also keeping it cool in summer. Glad to see you back on the tools!
Of all the RUclips videos I have watched of people building their mitre saw stations this is one that I was genuinely pleased you finally got to make!
minisplits. I would never do anything else. Super efficient and every room has its own temp.
Hi Scott and Jess: Having tried all the heating systems (living in London and Hobart), for us the most comfortable heat comes from a hydronic system. We have both hydronic and heat pumps in our current house. Hydronic can be driven by electric if you don't want gas. I have used both electric and gas boilers and both work well. Compared with our heat pump systems, the hydronic is a more comfortable heat given the air circulation required for a heat pump systems; so as a result hydronic is our go to heating. You can also run the hydronic under floor which is really nice in the living areas if you have tiles. Downside is initial outlay, but most of that is labour which you would save on. I find hydronic to be quite a bit more efficient to run than our heat pumps (Daikin VRV). Good luck with the choice.
In Germany you'll rarely find another heating system than hydronic. so I was a bit confused about the difference you point out. due to better heat capacity of water i would always prefer hydronic systems. but this really depends on the climate you live in and on the insulation of your house. in germany heat pumps are generally installed in combination with under floor heating and good insulation. Interesting how the world heats their homes.
Problem: more complexity and no ability to have AC. It gets hot in Nelson.
I like how you built your mitre saw station using every saw BUT your mitre saw.
Looks amazing Scott. We just installed a Heat Pump at ours. A Mitzi 8/9kw on wall pump. Heats and cools well. Go for the wifi option (easier than hunting for a remote). Placing is important. Back to back indoor and outdoor unit is ideal, but not essential. Get quotes. Not much variation in price, but large margins.
Radiant Flooring is supposedly the most cost effective over time and very efficient. But initial cost is quite high. I don't know how effective it is in practice though. But I've only ever heard good things
I put radiant floors in my bathrooms. The master bath used to be really chilly but not since I put in the floors. It's also set on a timer. So you have it raise the temperature about an hour before you get up and bathroom is nice and toasty according to my wife. When I put the floor in they recommended not using the radiant heat at least a couple weeks to allow everything to properly cure.
We put radiant in our new build. We have a subfloor so could be retro fitted but you would need to plan some of the details from the very start. ie it will raise your floor height approx 30mm which will change all door clearances. We plumbed into our HWC and the whole system is pretty cheap to run really. Power bill isn't that bad. The heating is so comfortable its like summer all year round. Threw out all winter bedding as we dont need it anymore.
Im the main bath i did electric heated floor on a tstat instead of the heated floor from the furnace/boiler. It doesnt take up nearly as much room and didnt have to cut channels for it. Just put the tile right over it. Works really well. Also have the ceramic wall heater on a tstat. The wall heater really cranks out some heat. The heated floor we did not so much as a primary source but just so not walking on cold tile. The two together work great. Kick on once drops below 65. They arent on all that often and the room stays nice.
No AC and that may be more important than heat in NZ.
@@ckm-mkc AC can be added if required. I'm in NZ and we are considering adding the cooling units but whenever there is a nice day we normally find the doors and windows are wide open and we are outside anyway.
Heat pump appears to be the way to go Scott, workshop is beginning to take shape. Thanks for the latest exciting episode.👍👍
Yup, getting the workshop sorted before you start the house is deff a good idea, gives you an area to have the tools set up to make the tasks easier!
Hi Scott,just thought I’d mention about the mobile bench I made for my small workshop. I’ve incorporated my Bosch site tablesaw and router in it, it’s very versatile for both operations and doubles as an area for marking out or assembly.👍👍
Excited for you to have your own workshop and make your work station!!!
Hi Scott and Jess,
I have a house in Southland and one of the best things I did was install a wet back log burner and an HRV system. It heats the house efficiently, heats your water therefore reducing your power bill and combined with the HRV system drying the house out over time just made it a great combination for my place. The added bonus is that if there is a power cut you still have hot water, can cook on it and keep warm. That's what worked for me and my partner and she really feels the cold. Love the channel and congratulations on the garage with the attached house, lol.
"What should I heat my house with?" This should never be the first question to ask when deciding on an energy source to provide heating in an old house. The two questions you should be asking are 1,How can i best insulate my house and prevent heat loss. and 2, How can I best utilise the free energy available from the sun? Implementing the answers to these 2 questions will reduce the heating requirements of the house for the future and enable you to minimise the heating requirements. Inevitably an electrical solution will be the best in NZ. Air to air heat-pump or air to water radiator or underfloor system. Either way sort the insulation and passive solar heating first. Good luck
I totally agree.
Insulate first and maximize the solar intakes (while being mindful of not overheating during summer) and only then add a heating system.
Large windows that can make use of low winter sun whilst shaded from high summer sun would be great. Agree with the insulation recommendations. Heat pump all the way if correctly installed.
Also, dump the fluorescent tube lights for petal LEDS. In my garage the tube lights were too dim and the garage was dark.
I took out the tubes, fitted a standard bayonet light fitting. The LED lights were £15 for both.
It has a central LED and 4 petals which I can direct the light to different areas. Very cost effective as they dont use as much power as fluorescent tubes, and the garage is now exrtemely well lit.
I get alot of humor out of you using a makita miter saw to make a stand for your festool miter saw.
My job is mainly wiring up new houses and we often do the Air Conditioning. A central AC unit with ducting to each room is the best solution if you can afford it. You would need to temporarily remove part of the ceiling to get the unit in as they are fairly big and would require 3 persons to lift it in. They are more expensive ($5k) than the wall mounted version though. Central AC is still a heat pump, they have a larger outside unit than the single room type. Instead of having the AC unit mounted on your inside wall it is placed in the ceiling with ducting to each room. As it is doing multiple rooms it is about 4 times the size of a wall mounted unit.
Wall mounted units are the most common we do but they only heat one room. A cheaper option might be to install a wall mounted unit in the largest room (lounge) and then a fan heat transfer kit with ducting to each room you want to heat. Not sure how efficient that would be though, although I have installed these setups I actually did not live in the house to see how well it worked. I would say it would work better the less rooms you try to heat, so maybe just take it to the bedrooms.
You also need to calculate the cost to run any system as if it is too expensive you will not use it. My house was built around 1960 with under floor heating, it just consists of a wire run in the concrete floor unlike the hot water pipes they use today. Anyway it does a great job of heating the house but I cannot use it as the power bill sky rockets!
Work on ventilation first like a DVS reclaim as that will filter and keep the air in the house dry. You mention you guys suffer from hay fever, ventilation can help with that. Then next add a heat pump to do the heating cooling. I have a house the same age and style in AKL and the ventilation system was the first thing and absolutely worth it. Insulation and windows you can do when doing the reno. Hope this helps. BTE worms love coffee grinds.
Nice to see you both settle into your new home. On the heating side, I would look into ground source heat pump. One thing you should invest in for your workshop is a planer/thicknesser .
Love your work Scott and Jess! Just remember that your heating/cooling system is only as good as your draught proofing and insulation - roof, subfloor (sprayfoam) and wall if you can do it. Windows double glazed if poss. Sealing every unneeded opening.
Ducted heat pump combined with cooling would be the way to go, bit more expensive but worth it to have heat and cool in the whole house. Combined with solar panels you can offset the operational costs.
Have you thought about lining the ceiling of the garage roof under the purlins with painted boards to make the garage feel larger and brighter?
Really loving seeing your house progress so far!
Advice to Jess re the worm farm. Make sure it’s protected from direct sun, especially in summer obviously. Worms don’t like high temperatures. Winter temperatures outside shouldn’t be a problem in Nelson
We had a similar issue with our house that was freezing in winter and being western Australia the summers are very hot. In the end we went for a large ducted reverse cycle air conditioning unit and installed the biggest solar system on the roof that we could. Now we are comfortable and the solar is offsetting any addition electricity costs.
Living in Apline Central Otago, we used diesel heater, fireplace and heat pump in our 1874 weatherboard house. I think heat pumps are awesome in a newer/renovated house but a fire flame when the power goes out in winter is a life saver. Even if it only happened once a year, was a life saver when it was -10 outside
Heat pump with radiant flooring heating is the way to go. A warm bathroom floor in the winter is the ultimate luxury. I don’t know how humid it is in your neck of the woods but a heated towel rack is great to keep from having funky towels.
I need to do this to my garage. But vermicomposting is a crazy weird part of the internet that I'm apart of. and It's pretty awesome to see someone I've been watching be into it!
u wont
Heatpump is definitely the way to go as it works for both heating and air conditionning.
Ducted would also be better than a wall-mounted unit as it would allow for a more even distribution of the heating/cooling depending on the layout
I agree 100%. Also when allergies are a concern as for Jess, ducting allows excellent options for filtering the inside air, as well. HEPA is likely overkill in a home, but it would then be an option. My wife has seasonal allergies++, and a high value MERV does the trick here in Ontario, Canada. And I have never heard of anyone regretting having ducted heat/AC.
As a air conditioning tech ducted units are great but they have downfalls when it comes to having multiple people is the different rooms that the unit is feeding. it’s easier to have one high wall or floor mounted unit in the main living area and one in the bedroom.
Just built my first house and we went with a Mitsubishi mini split. We like it far more than the central heat systems typically found in most homes here in the US. It’s quiet and efficient. And a tip for your drop saw station. Hinge the counter top and build in a plywood box between the framing underneath the top. Makes for easy access storage because that area is usually kept clear for the saw. I kept extra saw blades for all of my power saws there. As an added bonus, if your garage/ house burns down, there is a fair chance anything in the box will survive. Yes, there is a direct connection to the added bonus and building a new house.
How about insulation on that roof, you can whitewash it to throw back some extra light, or even rig up some trusses or shelving for your materials, keeps it out of the way, and the roof is kinda out the way…
And yes! An episode on Jess and the worm farm is a MUST !!!
that's a really cool workbench! Big fan of floating desks/benches for most things. Might be worth building a few cabinets with drawers on wheels which you can have under there, but then also wheel around the garage as needed. The more stuff in the workshop that is on wheels the better.
agree on wheels, we had our old copper water main break underground recently (clay soil shifting) and the garage got a lot of clean water in it. was so nice to not have stuff on the floor, and to be able to just wheel things out to clean
In Nelson, it starts cooling in May, the real cold is mid June / July, and it's starting to feel a bit like spring late August. We are protected on three sides by the mountains. So...
- if the weather is coming in from the sea, it's also coming from the north, so it tend to be wet but warmer.
- The easterly isn't much, we are well protected
- while we can get cold, heavy rain from the West, the Takaka Hill stops a lot of it. Nelson is nowhere near as bad as the West Coast
- the most horrible winter weather is the strong southerly blast, 10 - 12C, wet, miserable, cold.
But - throughout winter we get windless, blue sky days, that are absolutely beautiful. It will start cold, 0 - 4C, maybe even a frost. But by 11 am you might be out in a t-shirt. Even though the air temp is only 16C, with no wind and glorious sunshine, you'd think its spring.
1) MOST IMPORTANT. Think about where your passive heating is going to come from. A well positioned, properly insulated and double glazed house in Nelson, needs bugger all heating. I'd recommend you sort that first.
2) Heat pumps are usually the best option, especially as you can pre program them. Think about that blue sky day I mentioned. Set your heat pump to come on an hour before you wake up, nice warm house, and you wont care that much about the air temp when you leave. Also, the heat pumps an air conditioner.
3) If you love fire - get a wood burner. Don't bother with one of those imitation gas ones. A wood burner is cheaper to run than a heat pump (but obviously requires more work), and remember the govt has signaled they want to get rid of gas. But wood burners are not instant heat, so they work best if you're home all day, and you can crank it up first thing in the morning, and look after it during the day. The heat they produce will completely exceed what a house the size of yours needs.
My concern for you and a wood burner, is the space in your living room. It would be intrusive. I think you'd be OK on consent, especially given the area I think your in, and that you'd be replacing an extant fire. But really, wood burner vs heat pump is not about the technicalities.
It's an emotional decision. If you love looking at flames, if you're happy chopping wood - do that. You can justify it on the basis of running cost, and having good emergency management options. Otherwise, heat pumps are better, easier and less intrusive.
4) Finally, in terms of capital expenditure, a simple heat transfer system is better than multiple heat pumps, or a multi vented heat pump, and I'd really strongly recommend it with a wood burner.
Enjoy the long weekend!!
Great start to the garage workshop. Thanks for bringing us along. BTW, Jess is a real trooper.
Heating / cooling. I like mini split systems. Get type that meets your needs for cooling and heating. If your low temp gets below 0 deg. F look into hyper system they should work down to about -15 dag, F. Thank you for your content, very interesting.
In addition to what Raymond stated, mini split systems are easier to install (no duct installation = less money to install) usually have more features AND you don't have to heat or cool the rooms you're not currently using. Or, at the very least the thermostats don't have to be set as high/low as the rooms that are used most. Overall lower operating costs.
Scott’s house is in Nelson, it never gets below about (+)5c.
@@tutekohe1361 Nelson would get ground frosts May-Sep surely, where the outside temp from 4-9am would be around 0. But by the looks the house is up on a hill so likely not a problem for Scott's place.
I think nowadays in NZ what we call a heat-pump will always do both hot & cold air :) Most of the ones on the market nowadays are rated to "work" to about -5C which in most places of NZ is colder than the worst day of the year. A lot of the earlier ones would pack it in before it even got below 1C which wasn't great; and the cooling on them would start to struggle around 30C as well. But the new stuff is a lot more resilient.
Nice work Scott! What a well designed dropsaw work bench, it’s going to make life so much easier. I would recommend ducted heating, it’s so nice to be able to heat different rooms and control which areas you want heated.
Wow, for once two questions for me: I am a HVAC/Wood boiler tech, and I have a working worm composter.
- First things first, all the insulation you do on your house is the heating/cooling that you won't need, plus it'll allow you to choose a smaller heating/cooling system, wich will turn out into long term economies. A heater is only there to compensate for the calories that are lost keeping your house at a comfortable temperature (to be determined, but around 20°C is the norm). So the harder you work on your insulation, the better.
- Your climate is mild so indeed very appropriate for a heat pump. No point in installing a central heating system there, and too expensive, plus you can't cool if needed (unless you want a heating/cooling floor, but it's so darn expensive for a relatively short timed use under your climate).
Ducted heat pumps are generally seen as better, more integrated and discreet , but more expensive and you have to be able to install the central unit in your attic. That's quite an imposing device so you might have to remove a part of the roof to fit it in, since it's not a new building. Also you only have one control system, based on a a reference room where the thermostat is installed. Wich means that if you stay up late during the winter doing paperwork and keep on "daytime" heating, the bedrooms will be heated as well, wich might not be comfortable if someone is already in bed. The reverse is true.
On the other side, the non ducted air/air units are cheaper and individual, wich means you can have a much finer control on what you want to heat or not inside the house. But they are tacky and bulging pieces of furniture, with an imposing conduit to hide the refrigerant gas tubes, unless you tear the walls to hide them.
One cheaper solution if you don't plan on heating the bedrooms much, is to combine a ductless heat pump for the living room and the office, and some pannel or accumulation type radiators for the bedrooms. But you won't have any cooling in the bedrooms during summer. Wich might or might not be needed depending on the insulation, and what you can/want to bear.
- If you can afford to have a stove, it can set a really pleasant atmosphere in your living room, and it also is a much more radiant, thus penetrating heat than heat pumps.
- For the worms, think of it as a mini ecosystem. The worms don't have teeth and can only eat what has already started to soften, so they need the bacterias, fungi and whatever to work well. It takes time for this to set up, and if you put in too much food, it will rot too fast, ferment, produce heat and the sugar will turn into acid. The worms don't like excessive heat and acid. I'm not sure wich species of worm you're using/growing, but over here in europe, the local species start dieing if the temperature in the compost bin goes over 30°C.
They also need to be fed as much carbon as you feed them with nitrogens (volume wise). All the general kitchen vegetables are considered nitrogen sources. The easiest source of carbon that I've been using is borwn paper bags and cardboards ground in a paper shredder.
I generally avoid throwing onion and garlic peels because they are considered dewormer plants, and citrus fruit pelts as they increase the overall acidity.
So my main advice as you start up is: be patient, don't feed them too much. Start with a banana peel or two (they love banana peels, you can always find rallies of them under banana peels), and slowly add some food twice or three times a week, increasing little by little as you see that food gets eaten. Salad leafs are good too as they soften really fast, contrary to, for example, apple and carots peels.
I think it took me around 6 monthes to have the composter going well and it was going at full power after a year. It's not bad if you put a little too much carbon, but it's bad if it ferments and the acidity goes through the roof. So grind all your egg shells in a small dedicated cofee grinder and add some each time you nourish them. It will keep the acidity lower, and will help the worms digest faster as it grinds food inside the worms's belly, much like sandpaper.
This is a really fascinating species of animals, and after a while observing them, you'll find out what they prefer and what they dislike. And yes, I know I sound like a whacko writing this, but so be it.
Oh, and thanks for the video, I like how you're slowly setting in and preparing for renovation. You both are inspiring.
Apologies if the reply was way way too long!
Had a worm farm for a long time and will be moving in 5 month and already build a new worm farm. It's awesome to have. Some tips are: don't put fruits with citric acid in it, don't put banana peels or very little and don't put your potato peel in there. Apart from that keep it moist, give them cardboard etc. so they can build there cocoons and just let them eat your leftover veggies and they will flourish :-) Have fun with your worms :-) Cheers from Germany
We’ve got a weatherboard house from the same era with an unusable fireplace. Recently put an 8kw heat pump in the lounge and have no regrets. We switched the old timber windows out for double glazed inserts around the same time and would highly recommend doing that first because the bigger heat pump would also pull cold air in through the old windows
yeah our old 1980s windows definitely leak a lot of cold in and a lot of hot out, I don't have any evidence but my gut says that the leaky windows can be a significant factor in how cold the house feels
@@bruce-le-smith A smoke test would ID that.
@@1702strine on it! let's go!!
Vote for Ductless Heat Pump. Plus, add a row of 19mm holes to your miter saw work surface so that you can use Festool style clamps.
I can vouch for the UJK Parf Mk2 Guide System to make sure the holes are in the correct grid. Beats the hell out of measuring and marking.
edit: Parf, not Pkrf.
@@TheOneWhoMightBe Agreed…
And after you add the holes to the surface, polyurethane two coats... you have a damp atmosphere. Keep the surface from warping. And timber slides easier too.
Ducted heat pump is by far the best way to go for whole home heating. They can be a bit of a pain to install in existing houses but with your skills that wouldn’t be a problem.
Individual heat pumps just don’t compare. Fire is the nicest heat of all but you have to deal with firewood. Pellet fires are nice and easy but not for everyone.
Definitely go for a ducted heat pump as others have suggested although perhaps a separate floor heating system in the bathroom. No clutter inside. You do need room under the floor for the heat exchanger fan and room for the ducting or you can put it in the roof. I am not so keen on the ceiling installation because it blows air down on you and the heat exchanger can be noisy in the ceiling. Then you need to figure out where to put the ducts and the air return. What sort of air filter do you need? Another important consideration is where to place the thermostat. Another consideration is do you want to be able to shutoff parts of the ducting? Finally depending on your embrace of technology a smart thermostat is nice. The first smart thing to look for is a thermostat that works out how long it takes for your heat pump to warm up your house as a function of starting temperature. The thermostat then adjust when to start the heat pump to get the house to temperature according to your heating schedule. You may want “geofencing” where the thermostat connects via an app to your phones and when you go out it stops heating/cooling. When you get closer to home it starts again so the house is at the right temperature when you are home. At this level you can also turn on/off your system remotely and adjust the temperature. Generally you can set a heating/cooling schedule for each day with four periods, wake, day, evening and overnight. Look for Android and Apple HomeKit connectivity.
Of course being the best solution it is the most expensive, however, if you do your own ducting that would reduce costs. Oh, and if you can do floor ducting and get the heat exchanger under the house try to avoid hanging the unit from the floor but rather concrete in a few support poles into the ground and hang it from those. This avoids noise and vibration,
Another option would be a system with a couple of internal heat exchangers, either wall mounted or console units. Some sort of heat pump driven floor heating system is also possible but heating only. The critical advantage of a heat pump is for every Watt of electricity you put in you get 3 or 4 watts of heat or cold out.
Hope these random thoughts are helpful although you are probably well into the options.
Mini split heat pump for sure. You’ll get efficient heating and cooling and keep your installation costs to a minimum 👍🏻
Mini Split for heating and cooling - BUT replace that fireplace with a pellet stove insert - It will give you the fire ambiance and kick out a lot of heat and they are now like 90% efficient
And the Pellets are made just down the road from you so not so many " Food Miles"
Interesting, I didn't think of that option. Thanks!
Scott, Get free light from the Sun. Replace a few Garage Roof corrugated metal sheets with corrugated plastic sheets. Lots of options: clear, diffuse, grey, etc. Acrylic does not fade & stays clear. Polycarbonate stronger, but can yellow due to UV exposure, unless OEM notes as UV stable. Consider cutting sheets in half for a wider distribution of daylight in several roof locations.
We have electric heating on the top floor, it works with a big stone that bassicly heats up, works pretty well but its recommended to have solarpanels then haha
Scott in Germany there are electrical heating systems that are as thin as mirrors or pictures and are attached to the walls in rooms that have previously been calculated in cubic meters so that you know how much you need to heat them. That seems to me to be the simpler solution without much work. Greetings from north-west Germany .....................
Love all your videos. I am in Montreal, we are in the middle of winter and it's a cold one this year, many days in the -20 C range. Many people here have a heat pump and the system automatically switches to an electric forced air or oil furnace when it's colder than - 10 C. Obviously not a concern for you. It is just that we can compare in the same house the quality of the air between a heat pump Vs other heat sources. Heat pump air is less dry and therefore healthier for your sinus. I would go heat pump over any other heat source. Really looking forward to following the progress of the house renos. Cheers.
Merci Philippe! I remember paying a lot for a tank full of oil in Montreal when I was in uni haha. -10c is amazing for a heat pump, do they have piping that runs underground to achieve that? our unit is all above ground and just tries to pull heat from the air, so it seems to not be very effective at 0c...
Hi Scott. Myself and my wife have bought an old cottage about 40 minutes outside Dublin and much like yourselves, it's a real do'er upper. Not a screed of insulation, needs a new waste water system, kitchen needs scrapping and we want to extend it. Eventually, it will be a complete renovation with 2 extensions. Eventually. But the heating system is radiators off a back boiler stove and that was one of the selling points of the house for me. As a carpenter and joiner, i have a lot of scrap wood and off cuts so we'll be able to heat the house really cheap and fairly carbon neutral! The other selling point was I'll have enough room to build my own workshop. Ive been renting different work spaces for quiet a while so I'm looking forward to finally having somewhere purpose built to suit me. Love the vids, good luck with the house agus bain maith.
Not sure what your neighbourhood is like Scott but I'd bar up that window. Perfect view of your beautiful saw and other tools.
Ducted Heat pump multi, one unit for the living areas and one for the bedrooms. Some brands have a 50m pipe run so you can locate the outdoor unit away from the house (you have to put the pipes in a trench) but that way you can control zones at night and during the day and should be fairly cheap to run.
Heat pump air to fluid and hydronic radiant floors in combination is awesome! Live i Norway and this is in my opinion the most cost effective heating system to operate. A little pricey up front, but really comfortable to have heated floors all year.
Radiant floors +1. That's what i'm up to.
@@indreklensment8374 But no AC...
I have a ducted heat pump in the pacific northwest (USA). The ducts were preexisting so we just reused them from our old gas system, but part of me wishes I had done a zoned system for better heat control. I love my heat pump and would do it again but there are a few downsides with Heat Pumps like when it gets really cold but in our mild climate those days are rare.
Matt Risinger on youtube has a lot of detail on top of the line solutions for HVAC, and a lot of other things.
Great vid Scott. As for the worm farm. Make sure you don't put eggs, wood chips and any meat products as all these things will kill the worms. Also some people say not to put citrus I'm but I have never found a problem. The worm pee or as we call it in Australia 🇦🇺 worm woo is great for the vegetable garden.
i would look into Mini Split... Could be an alternative for heating and cooling. Great work!
I would personally recommend a 14kw ducted air con unit throughout the house. If you ever get the fire going could also look at a heat transfer system! Definitely ducted though it’s initial cost is up there but definitely the most efficient way
What happens when the power goes out in the middle of winter? Last snow storm I was in the electricity was out for 10 days, luckily the house had a log burner for heat and to cook on. A/C is great but I would have a log burner too.
@@craigdavies8099 luckily here in nz where Scott is located snowstorms aren’t common at all. He has a fire but said he is unable to use it! Any ways of heating other then log fires generally require power except LPG fires. Other then that he would just have to wear three pairs of socks 😂
@@kaisievandyk9746 The snow storm I mentioned was Timaru... Not Nelson I agree, regular storms can take out the power too. We have moved to the Bay of Plenty, def no snow storms here thankfully. We are 320m above sea level and winter is a bit cold but not South Island cold. I like to have a back up system for everything that is important to comfort!
Have a great day!!
It's always good putting a workshop together. Heating for the house? Old houses even when insulated are still are not very efficient at keeping the heat in. Heat pumps on their own are convenient, but expensive to run. We have a diesel furnace that heats water for radiators installed in most rooms (as well as it heating the hot water cylinder). If you can get gas to do the same thing it will be cheaper again. Reverse cycle air conditioners are great in summer and can help moving the heated air from the radiators, but you'll get better value if you use them complimenting another heating system. Cheers, David
Ah, you may say basic mitre saw station but this is going to pay both of you back - a lot!
Doing total renovation myself and every fixed station you got is going to make you smile, every single time.
For heating: Air to air heat pump. And get a lean and clean burning modern closed fireplace/stove to accompany the heat pump. That is if firewood is sensibly priced in NZ.. Old stoves does with up to over 80% heat straight out of the chimney, leaving you with 20% inside. A well done modern stove will turn those numbers around 😉.
Enjoying Jess and missing Paraeu.
Definitely a heatpump for the house. Try a small wordburning stove for the garage/workshop, than you can use scrape wood in the winter. Also use so sealing strips on the door and window's.
Not sure i'd worry about the woodburning stove, as most likely the bulk of the scraps Scott will have will be treated and burning that is a bit of a no-no down here in NZ I think. In a shop Mattias Wandel found an infrared heater you can move and have pointing at you all the time is the way to go (ruclips.net/video/meFtoRTWox0/видео.html).
Fully ducted heat pump. I've put them in three houses now in NZ and based on the layout of the house ( bungalow, 1950's, and now 2009 ) they all heat and cool the house slightly different due to the flow of air from the outlet ducts to the inlets. You can get them set up with zones for the different areas of the house but I've never done that and have always ended up with slightly warmer bedrooms in winter and cooler in summer than what we got in the main living areas. This is how we like it for sleeping. There is a unit outside and one to go inside the ceiling space. With the Panasonic units I had to pull roofing iron off to get them in but with the Daikin units they break down enough to go through the holes for the air return grills. There is also not a lot of noise from the outside unit. The Daikin is connected to WiFi so I can turn it on , off or adjust it with my phone while I'm out. Fully ducted is more expensive but well worth it. $13.5k , $15k and latest was $16k. Shorts and tee shirt all year round in my house.
We are renovating in Melbourne, we installed a temporary KWH39HRF which is a reverse cycle heat pump, draws about 1.1kW and easily cools 25sqm living space we are living in (uninsulated) to 20deg when outside is mid 30s.
When the doors joining the living space are open, it still does a good job cooling the rest of the house which currently being renovated. We expect it will go well in winter to heat as well.
Last winter we averaged about 40kWh each day on space heaters and resistive heaters to keep the 25sqm space warm.
Long term a hydronic heat pump or ducted heat pump system might be something to consider, however it all depends how much work you’re going to do on the house.
If you want to go down the renewables route then I’d suggest underfloor heating with air source heat pump, it’s not as efficient as gas but is the best renewable option personally.
Jeebus, an air source heat pump is 4 times as efficient as gas ...
@@aleksanderkac7530 I worded it wrong sorry , we recently done a few installations and the time it took to heat up the underfloor was stupidly slower than gas
Love these videos. They are the most enjoyable, relaxing, and educational videos in the construction and handyman video realm.
Can't beat the heat from a fireplace, the best vibes.. Worth the hassle - therapeutic as a daily ritual and in it's function.
For the house definitely a mini-split heat pump. "Life Uncontained" and "Wild Wonderful Off Grid" installed them in their off-grid houses and they work quite well from solar and battery. I'd get the fireplace so it is USABLE for burning wood and also a small wood stove in the garage. Nothing beats a wood fire as a "no power required" heat source!
Mini splits are great.
Until you really need it to work.
Wouldn't recommend them to my enemies
Countless top dollar large companies have worked on our old one and the newer one (3years old)
I've beenusing a 40dollar space heater all winter just to keep myliving room above60 degrees
@@williamsmith9026 Winters in NZ aren't as harsh - particularly in the area Scott is, so is less likely to have those sorts of problems. And most of the heat-pumps (what we call a mini-split) sold here nowadays cope with 0C ok.
Scott, what is that RED HANDLED JACK you were using? Looks so handy.
They have many names but if you search extending support rod you'll find it 👍
@@wiktorzralka254 thanks. I thought it looked kinda like a smaller version of the ones used for pinning plastic sheeting to the ceiling. I’m curious which brand Scott recommends.
@@sterlinghearth3651 yes they would be the same thing, we personally use them to hold panels up on the ceiling on boats
My one is a Bessey clamp. Bessey sent them to me among many other clamps a while back now. I haven't been able to find them for sale anywhere since. Good luck! They work really well 🙂
Whether you choose a heatpump or wood fire to heat your home, consider a heat transfer kit so you are able to distribute the hot (or cold) air throughout the all rooms.
Cheers for the great entertaining but educational content 👍
transfer/distribution good advice. our heatpump uses the big old tin ducts from 1969, and they seem very inefficient and the house doesn't heat evenly. the main thermostat will say 20c but it will feel more like 15-18 depending where you go. and if one room has a door closed most of the heat seems to get trapped in that one room for some mystical/scientific reasons I don't understand.
We have a (groundwater) heat pump. The former owners of our house had it installed, but didn't care about having it serviced periodically. It was quite expensive to have it brought to live again (> 10.000 euro's). But.....now it works....it's phenomenal! Works like a charm with very little additional costs for extra (gas) heating in the winter. So, my advice would be to get an heatpump and don't bargain on the service costs!
Love your channel, Scott. Your climate is similar to ours here in Hawkes Bay, so I would go for a heat pump/ woodburner mix, but before that, insulate, insulate, insulate! Walls, floor and ceiling as much as you can. Reduce fuel bills both winter and summer. Our summers are gonna get hotter, so insulation is important then too.
Can't beat a good fire box Scott - a multi fuel is best, we have a stagg multi fuel ( made on the coast ) in the lounge, which is good and a yunca multi fuel in the kitchen, the yunca probably works slightly better, (it has more fire bricks in it which really work to hold and radiate heat) it heats our hot water in winter with a wet back also which is excellent. Multi fuel burners have vents underneath the grate. This is very helpful for regulating the fire and getting it started.
In my luxury world we'd also have a passive solar coil on the roof, which would work great in summer, and would do most of the water heating which could then be finished of with the existing electric, or gas even, which we have in bottles for our shower/ bathroom.
AND a heat pump for milder days or mornings when you just want a bit of quick heat before you head out without having to light the fire.
We also have the classic rack in the ceiling for drying our clothes when the fire is used ...
None of this is probably very helpful!
But it's great to have options, and electric water heating is by far the most expensive bill we have.
We try not to use it, to the point that we get a bucket of hot water from the bathroom (gas) to do the dishes in summer !
I suspect that heating your water and drying your clothes and warming the house with a renewable, sustainably harvested wood fired wet back is very ecologically sound.
But even the garden hose here on the west coast gets boiling hot in summer - not harnessing that via a coil of hose in a box on the roof seems crazy to me...
Then it would be small amount of work for any other power source to heat your water ...
Whether that were electric on demand or temperature regulated gas ... I don't know - gas may not be available indefinitely with future regulations... (understandably) ...
Nelson gets lots of sun so maybe you could go solar?
Always good to have a back up though - I just associate living in the south island with a having a proper fireplace!
But otherwise yeah heat pump, if you ldon't mind dry itchy air blowing in your face ! (lol)
Loved this ep: I too have been struggling with garage work shop layout and whether to have storage under the drop saw bench...
My drop saw (AEG) doesn't have that cool feature of having the sliding mechanism forward of the base... so means a stupid amount of space away from the wall to set up... space is at a premium for us.. all materials, timber racking, tall storage (door etc) windows- paint, paint gear, tools, all the rest of the renno madness, garden stuff... It's tricky...
Speaking as somebody from the UK I'd recomend wet underfloor heating with a gas fired boiler as the easiest option. Air source heat pumps, whilst people seem to be raving about them, don't work that well over here. If you can stand the cost ground source is really good, preferably using a bore hole. Wet underfloor uses low flow temperatures so on a modern gas condensing boiler you can get great efficiency. All that said, the real key is control of draughts and good insulation. We have an older house, brick built with no cavity. We're also in a conservation area so very limited to what we can do externally. On our house I replastered all of the external walls with plasterboard backed with 50mm Celotex insulation on the insides. Boards were 'glued' to the walls with Acrylic Adhesive with mechanical fixings as required by buildings/fire regs. In the two bedrooms, upstairs, we weren't planning on changing the floors (yet) so we installed low flow temp radiators and ran these as circuits on the UFH system so later on we can change the bedrooms to UFH too. Wet UFH costs more upfront but it's cheaper to run than electric. My friends in Sweden use a combination of Geothermal, Solar and Wood fired for their house. Their basement looks like a ships engine room with all the pipes and control valves (all automated) but their system is incredibly cheap to run.
Hey I'm a brit living in NZ, gas boilers are really uncommon here and most (at least where I am) houses don't have a gas feed unlike in the motherland. Some newer houses have a small gas boiler for instant hot water but that is being phased out I believe due to environmental reasons. The electricity here is generated entirely (I think!) Through renewable sources, most houses have an electric hot water cylinder and an air source heat pump with what we as brits with think of as an A/C unit on the wall of the most habitable room for heating and cooling the whole house!
As far as insulation goes, I'll let a local fill you in on that 😅
That doesn’t sound like a particularly “easiest option”, David. Gas fired boilers are uncommon here in NZ and the Govt has indicated they are going to phase out Gas availability shortly. Insulation is never a bad decision, but Scott has to be wary of over-investment in a town where it never gets below 5c.
@@tutekohe1361 Fair enough. Like I said, I was speaking as a Brit living on the Island of the Damned. Air source may work for you guys with your climate but over here they're a waste of time on a cold, wet day.
I am proffisional heating engineer and I live in your area. Because the climate is so mild a floor mount heat pump in the living area and a small ducted under the floor for the bedrooms gives you a really effective system. Low running cost with two smaller units and the whole home heated. Brcause the systems are smaller the whole system is usually cheaper than a whole home ducted, and much cheaper than one with zoning systems.
love watching people build its so satisfying,i would use a fireplace being a builder myself I always had plenty of firewood
I love that a marital built a bench for a festool
With the garage workshop layout, consider making a copy of the Paulk Workbench you already have and bolting them together (I've just used a pair of toggle latch clamps/over-centre fasteners on each end and a dowel to locate them). Then use them as a combo workbench and outfeed table for the table saw.
I had the same thoughts going from residential into commercial, that the smoko sheds were insane! We even got vending machines with drinks and snacks, even one with PPE and small tool items like pencils, blades etc. They were so handy! Made people much happier at work to have a proper lunch room! We have that same worm farm!
Log burner/ heat pump combo, Guys! Yip firewood can be a pain, but it’s reasonably priced in the regions, and there’s nothing like sitting in front of a warm fire on a winter’s night. Love your work, Scott and Jess. The Lincolns from Napier😀👍
My mum had one of these very same wormeries about 20 years ago it was fantastic.
Great vids BTW, you often explain a lot of stuff that would have been useful when we did our lift, shift and reno. As part of that we did a lot of insulation, rigid foam not pink bat, in the walls, really worthwhile if you are going to be re-plastering the interior anyway. The best thing we did was to have a ducted heat pump AND a high efficiency wood burner. That way if we can make the living area warmer without making the whole house too warm, also you don't need the heating on so much in autumn or spring and the fire can just be used to top up the heat already there. Plus we have a whistling kettle to make tea on the cooking top of it. Also DH is great for cooling a down the house and for de-humidifying. We need a more constant temp due to my SO's chronic illness. Don't want to teach my granny to suck eggs but, certainly in AKL, we needed to get specific planning for the insulation and the fire.
Looking forward to seeing the outcome.
We have a very similar but renovated home up the road in Stoke. We found once the property was insulated in the roof, walls and underfloor combined with draft proofing on the front and back doors - a decent heat pump (5.8kw) is sufficient for majority of the home with slim panel wall heaters in each of the 3 bedrooms. Winters here aren't particularly cold and dont last very long either.
Absolutely love that Jess has become more active on this channel. So great to have her in the videos. Shes a vibe 🔥