My 68 has been parked for the past 14 years. Everything worked then but almost nothing does now. I’m assuming all the grounds & connections are corroded. I’m greatly enjoying your videos! Keep them coming. The longer the better. I enjoy seeing you work & process ideas.
Thanks. The plan is to post about once a week. To figure out if corrosion is the culprit, see if the voltage drops with distance from the battery. I think I have some corrosion issues on mine,too. Maybe I should do a video about that.
Just started watching this series, and I like it so far! I'd like to see your troubleshooting etc. I just bought a 73 FJ40, and the Gas and Temp gauges don't work. I know what I need to do, but seeing someone go through that would be awesome. Good stuff!!
The process of finding out why gauges aren't working is not all that complicated. Unfortunately, I didn't make any videos when I fixed mine. It's a good topic. I'll see what I can do.
I like your logical approach Mike. Making the list and comparing to the wiring diagram you may see a correlation between two issues and fix with one solution. I am with Joe on this one.....check those grounds if you are see low voltage. Great Job. Cheers!
I'm assuming you're talking about the headlight switch. My first guess is that the painter disconnected the light switch and pushed the connector behind the dash. If so, you should be able to find it, pull it back through the hole, and reconnect the switch. The terminals are arranged so it's difficult to connect it incorrectly.
have a 1972 FJ40 ..... replaced the ignition switch ..... HOWEVER ..... engine starts ok , but somehow the all the lights are still ON even after turning off the ignition ..... please advise
The first thing I'd do is make sure the switch is wired correctly. I don't have a '72 wiring schematic, but I have a '71 which I used for this reply. I hope they didn't make major changes in '72. On the '71 FJ40, there are only three wires on the ignition switch. A black wire with a red tracer comes from the fuse block and is the incoming power (it's always hot). This wire goes to the AM terminal on the ignition switch. A black wire with a yellow tracer goes to the ignition and goes hot when you turn the ignition on. This wire goes to the IG terminal. A black wire with a white tracer goes to the starter and goes hot when you hit the starter. This wire goes to the ST terminal. (The AC terminal is not connected to anything.) If you wired it correctly and it still doesn't work, then you must have a fault in the wiring harness. There's a process for finding these, but it's too involved for this reply.
I just acquired a Sept 1971 FJ40 and have been going through the wiring issues. One issue I have is with the brake warning light lamp in the dash. The light is in the dash, with a bulb ,but the wire is not connected to anything. I am not sure where I should plug it in? Have troubleshooted or investigated this on your fj40?? Thanks, Chuck
I had to fix the parking brake light, too. It was a while ago, so this might not be 100% right. I think I remember that the wire from the light went over to a pigtail just behind the parking brake pull handle. the pigtail is a connected to a little switch. When the handle is all the way in, the switch opens and the parking brake light goes out. Pull the handle out, the switch closes and the light goes on. Remember you have to rotate the handle to get it out of the ratchet. The light won't go out until you push the handle all the way in AND rotate it back down. Try these three tests: 1) Test the light: Make a jumper wire that is wired to +12 volts somewhere on the fuse block. Touch this jumper to the wire coming out of the light socket. The light should go on. 2) Test the fuse. There should be a wire coming from the fuse block to the switch at the base of the parking brake. Use a voltmeter to confirm 12 volts going into the switch. The ignition needs to be on for this test. 3) Test the switch. With the ignition on, use a voltmeter to check voltage between the pigtail and ground. It should be zero volts with the handle in and 12 volts with the handle out. If all tests are successful, you can connect the wire from the light to the pigtail and everything should work. If the first test fails, you probably need a new bulb. If the second test fails, check the fuse. If the third test fails, clean the shaft to make sure it goes all the way in (that was my problem). If goes all the way in, you may need a new switch. Hope that helps.
My 68 has been parked for the past 14 years. Everything worked then but almost nothing does now. I’m assuming all the grounds & connections are corroded. I’m greatly enjoying your videos! Keep them coming. The longer the better. I enjoy seeing you work & process ideas.
Thanks. The plan is to post about once a week.
To figure out if corrosion is the culprit, see if the voltage drops with distance from the battery.
I think I have some corrosion issues on mine,too. Maybe I should do a video about that.
Just started watching this series, and I like it so far! I'd like to see your troubleshooting etc. I just bought a 73 FJ40, and the Gas and Temp gauges don't work. I know what I need to do, but seeing someone go through that would be awesome. Good stuff!!
The process of finding out why gauges aren't working is not all that complicated. Unfortunately, I didn't make any videos when I fixed mine. It's a good topic. I'll see what I can do.
@@mikerestoresanfj4069 I second that. Would love to have some guidance on getting gas and temp gauge working
@@seanbowie7966 Do you have a volt meter? If you do (and you know how to use it) I can give you some pointers.
@@mikerestoresanfj4069 Y & Y. My fj40 is carb work done. It’ll be back next week. I’ll check in with you then. How do you prefer to message?
@@seanbowie7966 I added an email to the channel. In the About tab
Informative as usual. Thx. Would like to see actual repairs on video if possible (esp. electrical)
That's good feedback and I agree. I should have shown more actual repair work.
I like your logical approach Mike. Making the list and comparing to the wiring diagram you may see a correlation between two issues and fix with one solution. I am with Joe on this one.....check those grounds if you are see low voltage. Great Job.
Cheers!
Low voltage is the next video. Will shoot it Friday/Saturday
when my lands cruiser was painted they remove the lights switch and then they never could put back together. any idea how to wired it ,thank you
I'm assuming you're talking about the headlight switch. My first guess is that the painter disconnected the light switch and pushed the connector behind the dash. If so, you should be able to find it, pull it back through the hole, and reconnect the switch. The terminals are arranged so it's difficult to connect it incorrectly.
have a 1972 FJ40 ..... replaced the ignition switch ..... HOWEVER ..... engine starts ok , but somehow the all the lights are still ON even after turning off the ignition ..... please advise
The first thing I'd do is make sure the switch is wired correctly.
I don't have a '72 wiring schematic, but I have a '71 which I used for this reply. I hope they didn't make major changes in '72.
On the '71 FJ40, there are only three wires on the ignition switch. A black wire with a red tracer comes from the fuse block and is the incoming power (it's always hot). This wire goes to the AM terminal on the ignition switch. A black wire with a yellow tracer goes to the ignition and goes hot when you turn the ignition on. This wire goes to the IG terminal. A black wire with a white tracer goes to the starter and goes hot when you hit the starter. This wire goes to the ST terminal. (The AC terminal is not connected to anything.)
If you wired it correctly and it still doesn't work, then you must have a fault in the wiring harness. There's a process for finding these, but it's too involved for this reply.
I just acquired a Sept 1971 FJ40 and have been going through the wiring issues. One issue I have is with the brake warning light lamp in the dash. The light is in the dash, with a bulb ,but the wire is not connected to anything. I am not sure where I should plug it in? Have troubleshooted or investigated this on your fj40??
Thanks, Chuck
I had to fix the parking brake light, too. It was a while ago, so this might not be 100% right.
I think I remember that the wire from the light went over to a pigtail just behind the parking brake pull handle. the pigtail is a connected to a little switch. When the handle is all the way in, the switch opens and the parking brake light goes out. Pull the handle out, the switch closes and the light goes on. Remember you have to rotate the handle to get it out of the ratchet. The light won't go out until you push the handle all the way in AND rotate it back down.
Try these three tests:
1) Test the light: Make a jumper wire that is wired to +12 volts somewhere on the fuse block. Touch this jumper to the wire coming out of the light socket. The light should go on.
2) Test the fuse. There should be a wire coming from the fuse block to the switch at the base of the parking brake. Use a voltmeter to confirm 12 volts going into the switch. The ignition needs to be on for this test.
3) Test the switch. With the ignition on, use a voltmeter to check voltage between the pigtail and ground. It should be zero volts with the handle in and 12 volts with the handle out.
If all tests are successful, you can connect the wire from the light to the pigtail and everything should work.
If the first test fails, you probably need a new bulb.
If the second test fails, check the fuse.
If the third test fails, clean the shaft to make sure it goes all the way in (that was my problem). If goes all the way in, you may need a new switch.
Hope that helps.
Check all the grounds.....
Will do.
What year FJ is this?
1971