If you have experience I would highly recommend it. If not I would probably sell it as a whole. Use the money to buy the EG4 lithium iron phosphate batteries. It's very very dangerous inside these packs. Even once u get the packs all disconnected the voltage will be safe but the current is still in the 1,000s of amps. I used to instrument ev batteries for an R&D testing facility. Now I work on the wind tunnels specializing in the controls cabinets with 4,000 amp 480 3 phase equipment. When I was installing them into a server style battery rack I somehow accidentally touched the positive and negative terminals to the case. The arc flash was so strong it burned the end of of a 2/0 cable terminal I was holding. The the fireball 3rd degree burned my left thumb and spots on 4 fingers on my right. I was working on them at 2am when the kiddos were in bed and had a lapse in judgment. I should have been wearing at least leather gloves and I wasn't. So if you do it just make sure to wear heavy cotton clothes, no polyester, have on tig welding leather gloves, long sleeves and safety glasses. I think it's totally worth doing just be diligent with safety. I'll link an update of where I ended up installing those cells. Since the only thing I've changed is the inverter from a 6kw high frequency to a 12 kw low frequency growatt
100% u need a BMS lots and lots of brands JBD is the brand I'm using. Definitely need something to monitor individual cell voltages and shut down the battery from charging and discharging when maximum reached
Since you cut the case open, did you see how that single cooling pipe works? I have a couple and don't see a return pipe and not able to blow or suck through that pipe. Thanks.
To get more details on your setup and for my understanding. Each of those battery units have 6 modules. Each module has 3.7 volts with 64ah? So you took 7 of those modules (wired in series) and created 3 packs. Then wired them in parallel?
Each module that u see me pick up usually have 5 and/or 6 cells per module. I cut up some modules to only have 4 cells in them. There are modules (most 5 cell) in series with a cut up 4 cell module to make 14 cells in series or 14s as its refered to and those 14s strings are paralleled with 6 strings. In the video only 3 strings of 14s are connected now i have all 6 connected. So the whole pack is now 14s6p 14x3.7v=51.8v nominal 14x4.2v=58.8v fully charged 51.8v nominal at 64 ah per cell and string. Series does not incread ah only voltage. So 64ah x 6 parralell strings is 384ah@51.8v 384ahx51.8v= 19,891wh or 19.8kwh
Looks great! I purchased 4 of those batteries for a 24v setup. However, the 6S is not working out with my inverter. I'm thinking about getting 1 more and cutting out the individual cells to make 4 7s. How hard was it for you to separate out the cells? thanks!
CFL FPV i just used tin snips down the side of the metal frame, platic top plate and tin snips to cut the busbars in half. Maybe 5 mins per battery pack
That's a very generic question. I need tons of specifics. What bms are you going to use? What solar charge controller do you have what inverter do you have. How much experience do you have with ev batteries because they have the ability to kill you when taking them apart? Did u buy the whole battery or just one module?
I have 13 cells left over from cutting some off the modules u see. Im running 14s. That is one cars whole battery. So its 18 modules. U could probably make ur pack 15s and just buy 18-5 cell modules and not have to modify anything and wouldnt have any left over cells. I did it this way cause i got a whole battery so i had some 6 cell modules and some 5 cell. So i was already going to have to modify them to 5 cell so to better work with my ups voltage settings i made most of my 6 cell modules into 4 cell modules. Hope that makes sence
How are they holding up I only have 2 cycles on my Polaris. I've noticed when charging I get some weird numbers on my voltmeter from the [positive most cell(16volts). But only 24v across the positive and negative at the same time. All cells are 3.9* except the last cell. The first cell goes back to 4v once the charging load is removed. Is there a capacitor in the construction of the pack?
Sorry i do t have any extra. I have not knoticed any weird voltages yet. But i have not been pulling more then 50amps at a time. Accross 6 strings so like 8.3 amps per cell
note this what I am thinking about getting for my solar setup, 1 kWh Bosch Module Golf Cart EV Car Solar Battery 5 Cells 20 VDC Lithium Ion price 128 plus shipping used, I can only get one at A time, how many life cycles do one of these have thanks?
At least ten times as many that of a lead acid. Meant to last 15yrs in a car. The less you take out of them the more cycles you will get but its not nearly as much degridation as a lead acid tho. Lead acid you can only take to 50% soc. These you can take down to 10% and uo to 95% without any serious degridation
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 yea bought them back then, but shipping was like $900 more any idea where to get a plug that fits the oem plug to check each cell? thx
@@swormser865 unfortunatly no. I have them cause i got the whole battery but in reality u dont need them just cut em off and solder or crimp any end u want on. Best bet is to use batriums as the bms and youd need extention harness anyways
@@janvetterli I might today. Are you referring to the boxes inside the battery pack connected to the bms harnesses? I only have the the battery pack nothing external of that
I use a lot of in acurate maths in this so relax i know. 3.2v X14s =44.8v The ups shuts down at 10.5v X 4=42v. Thats too low for Li ion being 3.0 volts per cell is too low for my liking.
I would like to use them in series of 5-7 would be nice to just plug a checker in to the oem plug and be fast to check all 7 then will do a good bms later when i can thx
Pretty cool dude, right now these are the best bang for buck lithium, I seriously thinking of using on my wall. for those wondering where to get them
jehugarcia thanks that means alot keep up the good work in puerto rico. Ill post update videos to ur comment
My Fiat was just totaled today, was wondering what to do with the battery if I kept it and parted it out. Great set up.
If you have experience I would highly recommend it. If not I would probably sell it as a whole. Use the money to buy the EG4 lithium iron phosphate batteries. It's very very dangerous inside these packs. Even once u get the packs all disconnected the voltage will be safe but the current is still in the 1,000s of amps. I used to instrument ev batteries for an R&D testing facility. Now I work on the wind tunnels specializing in the controls cabinets with 4,000 amp 480 3 phase equipment. When I was installing them into a server style battery rack I somehow accidentally touched the positive and negative terminals to the case. The arc flash was so strong it burned the end of of a 2/0 cable terminal I was holding. The the fireball 3rd degree burned my left thumb and spots on 4 fingers on my right. I was working on them at 2am when the kiddos were in bed and had a lapse in judgment. I should have been wearing at least leather gloves and I wasn't. So if you do it just make sure to wear heavy cotton clothes, no polyester, have on tig welding leather gloves, long sleeves and safety glasses. I think it's totally worth doing just be diligent with safety. I'll link an update of where I ended up installing those cells. Since the only thing I've changed is the inverter from a 6kw high frequency to a 12 kw low frequency growatt
ruclips.net/video/nfNCCO3sBZo/видео.htmlsi=5CxGe-QdqIzFe2ZW
Do I have to use a bms
I have one battery pack
Or can I just come off of the t and - to the solar controller
100% u need a BMS lots and lots of brands JBD is the brand I'm using. Definitely need something to monitor individual cell voltages and shut down the battery from charging and discharging when maximum reached
Since you cut the case open, did you see how that single cooling pipe works? I have a couple and don't see a return pipe and not able to blow or suck through that pipe. Thanks.
Ron Robertson the top pipe is not for coolong. Its a gas vent incase of overcharge. The only cooling is done by the cooling plate they sit on.
@electromechanical stuff, what bms did you use with those batteries?
Batrium youtube them
To get more details on your setup and for my understanding. Each of those battery units have 6 modules. Each module has 3.7 volts with 64ah? So you took 7 of those modules (wired in series) and created 3 packs. Then wired them in parallel?
Each module that u see me pick up usually have 5 and/or 6 cells per module. I cut up some modules to only have 4 cells in them. There are modules (most 5 cell) in series with a cut up 4 cell module to make 14 cells in series or 14s as its refered to and those 14s strings are paralleled with 6 strings. In the video only 3 strings of 14s are connected now i have all 6 connected.
So the whole pack is now 14s6p
14x3.7v=51.8v nominal
14x4.2v=58.8v fully charged
51.8v nominal at 64 ah per cell and string. Series does not incread ah only voltage.
So 64ah x 6 parralell strings is 384ah@51.8v
384ahx51.8v= 19,891wh or 19.8kwh
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 Got it. Thanks.
@@davidcozzi373 no probkem any time. Ill make a new video once i get all the ups and transfer switches hooked up
Looks great! I purchased 4 of those batteries for a 24v setup. However, the 6S is not working out with my inverter. I'm thinking about getting 1 more and cutting out the individual cells to make 4 7s. How hard was it for you to separate out the cells? thanks!
CFL FPV i just used tin snips down the side of the metal frame, platic top plate and tin snips to cut the busbars in half. Maybe 5 mins per battery pack
Excellent thanks!
Hi, you still have them, I need one of 6 cells
Wow no BMS ? You were brave.
Hey man just bought one to use how do I hook up a bums
And can I just come t the to my solar controller and inverter
That's a very generic question. I need tons of specifics. What bms are you going to use? What solar charge controller do you have what inverter do you have. How much experience do you have with ev batteries because they have the ability to kill you when taking them apart? Did u buy the whole battery or just one module?
6s bms 4000 watt inverter 24/36/48 mppt controller
Lol and this is the first solar I’ve really done
Need a backup in th shtf
I bought one module
It’s a 24 volt 6 cell jut like the ones you used from bosch
It is a 6 cell pack
How many modules are we looking at? From how many cars?
I have 13 cells left over from cutting some off the modules u see. Im running 14s. That is one cars whole battery.
So its 18 modules. U could probably make ur pack 15s and just buy 18-5 cell modules and not have to modify anything and wouldnt have any left over cells. I did it this way cause i got a whole battery so i had some 6 cell modules and some 5 cell. So i was already going to have to modify them to 5 cell so to better work with my ups voltage settings i made most of my 6 cell modules into 4 cell modules. Hope that makes sence
Do you have a bms hooked up
Yes I'll link the last video I took with a whole solar update
ruclips.net/video/nfNCCO3sBZo/видео.htmlsi=p5QEuKG9UwVLi-mA
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 thanks man
Do you have any 6s packs left? I need 2 more for my polaris ranger ev.
How are they holding up I only have 2 cycles on my Polaris. I've noticed when charging I get some weird numbers on my voltmeter from the [positive most cell(16volts). But only 24v across the positive and negative at the same time. All cells are 3.9* except the last cell. The first cell goes back to 4v once the charging load is removed. Is there a capacitor in the construction of the pack?
Sorry i do t have any extra. I have not knoticed any weird voltages yet. But i have not been pulling more then 50amps at a time. Accross 6 strings so like 8.3 amps per cell
note this what I am thinking about getting for my solar setup, 1 kWh Bosch Module Golf Cart EV Car Solar Battery 5 Cells 20 VDC Lithium Ion price 128 plus shipping used, I can only get one at A time, how many life cycles do one of these have thanks?
At least ten times as many that of a lead acid. Meant to last 15yrs in a car. The less you take out of them the more cycles you will get but its not nearly as much degridation as a lead acid tho. Lead acid you can only take to 50% soc. These you can take down to 10% and uo to 95% without any serious degridation
thanks
What is the capacity per cell? I need a 7s to go with what I have already. I'm at 600ah 29.4v full charge. I have a 5kw inverter. Not bad!!
64ah per cell
How the FREAK did you get them open to pull the cells?? Please teach
me!!
Oops sorry for the late responce. I just used tin snios to cut the metal case that wraps the cells. Just be carefull not to nick the cells.
how much for just a battery tray?
would be interested to know as i have a project in mind.
Jehugarcia was selling them for $128 per 5 cell pack. Theres 18 packs in this video. Link in the discription
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 more like $200 each with shipping
@@swormser865 they are now. Snoose ya loose
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 yea bought them back then, but shipping was like $900 more
any idea where to get a plug that fits the oem plug to check each cell?
thx
@@swormser865 unfortunatly no. I have them cause i got the whole battery but in reality u dont need them just cut em off and solder or crimp any end u want on. Best bet is to use batriums as the bms and youd need extention harness anyways
Fiat had the battery mfg reverse polarity in these batteries so the can fit in the fiat using the least amount of wiring
Thats what i figured. Thanks for the info
The 43.4 Amps passing through that #10 THHN wire exceeds the NEC limitation of 40A. It should be changed to #8.
Ive since put 2awg copper
Also that #2 alluminum exceed NEC for the 200amp service in your house. Bug hey what a few volt lost
Great work keep it up
Nice job, do you still have the Bosch ECU that came with the pack, part# 0 442 010 001
I do believe so
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 great, if you're wiling to sell, please send me a short email to my500e.autovetterli@gmail.com
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 did you have a chance to check if the ECU is still around?
@@janvetterli I might today. Are you referring to the boxes inside the battery pack connected to the bms harnesses? I only have the the battery pack nothing external of that
@@electromechanicalstuff2602 Thanks in advance, and yes, the mentioned Bosch ECU is inside the battery pack
I use a lot of in acurate maths in this so relax i know. 3.2v X14s =44.8v
The ups shuts down at 10.5v X 4=42v.
Thats too low for Li ion being 3.0 volts per cell is too low for my liking.
I would like to use them in series of 5-7 would be nice to just plug a checker in to the oem plug and be fast to check all 7 then will do a good bms later when i can
thx
so if you ave them in series say about 100v 4 batteries the oem connectors for each cell will not give u each cells voltage ?
thx
I just watched this video and haven't got a clue what I watched.
John Nyu DC electric car battery removed from car and turned into whole house backup AC power.
In a nut shell
Looks good . Check out my system