Liked the sharp video. We all gotta use something to keep our blades sharp. I started on a kme, then a tsprof, and now free hand. Using good strops and compound, along with nano hone diamond honing strops it helps keep my edges longer.
My hard use daily driver work EDC is a Civivi Baklash, and at the end of every work week I clean it and sharpen it with an Orange Ninja three stage pull through sharpener. It gets it reasonably sharp quickly and easily, no complaints. But it's nowhere near the hair splitting original factory edge of the folding pocket knives in my collection that have never been carried or used. An "ok" edge just doesn't cut it anymore. I've been checking out everything from rollers to belt driven to broadstroke systems like this one, and this particular WorkSharp Precision Pro system gets such overwhelmingly positive reviews and crazy sharp results. And with such a moderate learning curve too. This video was so great to watch, thank you!
I have this system. Although I can freehand sharpen very well, guided systems have their place. To repair a damaged edge, to re-profile and edge or for an edge that is very dull, I use a guided system over a freehand stone any day.
Great video. I got this sharpener a week ago. I haven’t used it yet but it seems like a very nice sharpener ! I have the older precision adjust elite and I really liked it this new ones even better!
I had the hardest time with tips until I saw blades and fades put his finger under the tip . It’s helped so much gettting a perfect bevel . Not every knife wants to come perfect 😂. It can be a bitch sometimes if a person wants an even bevel with perfect scratch pattern . Anyways them damn tips can be a bugger sometimes .
I am a new owner of this unit and new over all sharpening knives. Which equates I don’t know anything!! . I have several questions. 1st-how much pressure should I use when I am on leather strop mode (I messed up my 1st strop then I keep dulling my blade when I get to leather strop, so now I don’t use it all). 2nd-When is the time to change from stones to stones? (I notice you say there’s a burr still on each stone just before you change stone, or does the burr gets less on each stone) forgive me for my elementary questions. I been a pocket knife carrier for many years I have 5 types of leatherman 2 kershaw pocket knives 3 buck knives and several cheap brands and USMC ka-bar and do keep my knives sharp with all the gimmick $5-$10 sharpeners. Because I’m more interested what I use my knives for. As long as they are sharp I’m good to go for the tasks in hand But I never had a knife cut paper and until now in my later years I want a true sharp knives like everyone else, big smile. Thanks in advance for your time to respond. Ps- I also learned a lot over all how to use my unit from this video. To prove I’m getting serious about having a true sharp knives, I went from $5-$10 sharpening units for years to this worx shop unit 😂🤣. What a jump.
1: If your knife is "sharper" before stropping you are likely not effectively managing your burr. 2: the burr is on your knife not the stone. There is a ton of variation and takes a little time to perfect but I'll give you the quick and dirty of it. The burr lets you know you've apexed the edge. It will be in the opposite side that your working on, the bottom on this sharpener. You'll be able to feel it on most steels, it feels like it sounds is the best way i can describe. Run your fingernail perpendicular to the edge. Once it's along full length switch sides then do it again. Now you'll have to learn how to minimize/remove the burr before stropping. Also a tip if you don't have one consider getting a 30x-90x jeweler's loupe so you can really see what's going on with your bevel and burr and scratch pattern etc.
Liked the sharp video. We all gotta use something to keep our blades sharp. I started on a kme, then a tsprof, and now free hand. Using good strops and compound, along with nano hone diamond honing strops it helps keep my edges longer.
I got the $60 one and I love it. Good video Merry Christmas 🎄 👍🏻
My hard use daily driver work EDC is a Civivi Baklash, and at the end of every work week I clean it and sharpen it with an Orange Ninja three stage pull through sharpener. It gets it reasonably sharp quickly and easily, no complaints. But it's nowhere near the hair splitting original factory edge of the folding pocket knives in my collection that have never been carried or used. An "ok" edge just doesn't cut it anymore. I've been checking out everything from rollers to belt driven to broadstroke systems like this one, and this particular WorkSharp Precision Pro system gets such overwhelmingly positive reviews and crazy sharp results. And with such a moderate learning curve too. This video was so great to watch, thank you!
Super practical video! Very easy to follow. Thx very much for the time to make and post this.
I have this system. Although I can freehand sharpen very well, guided systems have their place. To repair a damaged edge, to re-profile and edge or for an edge that is very dull, I use a guided system over a freehand stone any day.
Great video. I got this sharpener a week ago. I haven’t used it yet but it seems like a very nice sharpener ! I have the older precision adjust elite and I really liked it this new ones even better!
Drew 👋. What’s up dude ? Merry Christmas 🎄
@@Hungrybird474 Merry Christmas!!!!!
I had the hardest time with tips until I saw blades and fades put his finger under the tip . It’s helped so much gettting a perfect bevel . Not every knife wants to come perfect 😂. It can be a bitch sometimes if a person wants an even bevel with perfect scratch pattern . Anyways them damn tips can be a bugger sometimes .
I am a new owner of this unit and new over all sharpening knives. Which equates I don’t know anything!! . I have several questions. 1st-how much pressure should I use when I am on leather strop mode (I messed up my 1st strop then I keep dulling my blade when I get to leather strop, so now I don’t use it all). 2nd-When is the time to change from stones to stones? (I notice you say there’s a burr still on each stone just before you change stone, or does the burr gets less on each stone) forgive me for my elementary questions. I been a pocket knife carrier for many years I have 5 types of leatherman 2 kershaw pocket knives 3 buck knives and several cheap brands and USMC ka-bar and do keep my knives sharp with all the gimmick $5-$10 sharpeners. Because I’m more interested what I use my knives for. As long as they are sharp I’m good to go for the tasks in hand But I never had a knife cut paper and until now in my later years I want a true sharp knives like everyone else, big smile. Thanks in advance for your time to respond. Ps- I also learned a lot over all how to use my unit from this video. To prove I’m getting serious about having a true sharp knives, I went from $5-$10 sharpening units for years to this worx shop unit 😂🤣. What a jump.
1: If your knife is "sharper" before stropping you are likely not effectively managing your burr.
2: the burr is on your knife not the stone. There is a ton of variation and takes a little time to perfect but I'll give you the quick and dirty of it. The burr lets you know you've apexed the edge. It will be in the opposite side that your working on, the bottom on this sharpener. You'll be able to feel it on most steels, it feels like it sounds is the best way i can describe. Run your fingernail perpendicular to the edge. Once it's along full length switch sides then do it again. Now you'll have to learn how to minimize/remove the burr before stropping. Also a tip if you don't have one consider getting a 30x-90x jeweler's loupe so you can really see what's going on with your bevel and burr and scratch pattern etc.
Nice work.
i find 17 degree suits things much better, also, watching you strop, i really noticed how much movement and flex there was, without the extra support
How well does this do on curved blades (e.g. kerambit)?