Guitarlele in Standard E tuning Part 2 - Aquila 153C Red Set
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- This is a Yamaha GL-1 guitarlele using the Aquila 153C Red Set. You can get this string set on Amazon and else ware, but to note, from the manufacturers web site: "The set is designed for instruments with a scale of 17″ (43 cm): do not use on longer lengths" - Make sure you contact your Guitarlele manufacturer to double check with them. Thank You for watching my video.
aquilacorde.co...
This is a Yamaha GL-1 guitarlele using the Aquila 153C Red Set. You can get this string set on Amazon and else ware, but to note, from the manufacturers web site: "The set is designed for instruments with a scale of 17″ (43 cm): do not use on longer lengths" - Make sure you contact your Guitarlele manufacturer to double check with them. Thank You for watching my video.
I own a Yamaha GL-1 and just recently went through several string sets trying to find one that would work for standard classical guitar tuning. I own guitars and ukuleles but bought this to be an easy to pick up and try new things instrument that I could tune to standard guitar tuning. I currently have a set of D'Addario EJ43 strings on it. They are light strings which I prefer on all my stringed instruments. I am impressed with the sound on these though and will try them when I change it out next. I looked at Aquila but could not find anything that would guide me to these based on what I was trying to do. The Yamaha GL-1 presents a unique challenge for standard tuning as it is manufactured to the fifth fret of a guitar tuning vs. the standard tuning. Two sets of string I tried before the current ones did not sound good. One was very muffled and the other one the strings were so lose it was hard to play without pushing the strings off the neck. I thank you for putting this out there for those of us who own a Guitalele.
Thank You for your comment. The Yamaha GL-1 "to me" feels better finger picking in general and I understand about a lighter set of strings. I usually use the Aquila 96C (also known as AQ-96) as they are a bit on the stronger tension side for the treble strings and I like that for fingerpicking. These Aquila 153C set in my video, are heavy also on the bass string side. Many people ask me about putting guitar strings on the guitarlele, which is resounding no as the tension would be too great. If the scale length of the neck is 17″ (43 cm) and not longer then that, these strings are the closest to guitar strings out there for the guitarlele. Thanks again for your comment, have a great upcoming holiday season, all the best to you and yours.
What is the sound effect after adjusting EJ43 to standard EtoE?
Hi. Great video. Are the chord shapes and where they are placed on the neck as they are for guitar now also ? Thanks
Thanks for your comment. Yes, the chord shapes are the same as an acoustic guitar. The Guitarlele (also called Guitalele or Guilele) is usually tuned in standard A tuning, (A to A) these strings that I am showing allows the Guitarlele to be tuned in standard E tuning (E to E). Regardless, the chords shapes are the same, the pitch of the instrument in standard A tuning is like 5 frets higher up than a regular acoustic guitar.. higher sounding.. unless you get these strings which is the easiest of the two video I have on my channel.
Cheers and thanks for this, very helpful!
Thank You for your comment I appreciate that very much. I hope you and yours have a great Holiday Season and New Year.. all the best! - Mr.Tom Songwriter-Composer/Self-Administered Publisher (PRO: BMI Inc. / Pub: The MLC)
CAE/IPI #: 833986399 / Publisher Number: P135OQ
Hi there. I'm a beginner and I have the GL-1. I like using the stock strings which are meant for A tuning, but I tune them down to E. It's very loose, but it allows me to play bar chords which I previously always struggled terribly with. But now as time has passed, my guitalele has developed serious fret buzz in the beginning fret areas! Like you said, there's no truss rod to adjust it. I wanted to ask your advice. Is raising the saddle the best chance I have in this case to eliminate fret buzz? Lastly, do you know of any of these little 17" scale guitaleles that have truss rods? I know the bigger baritone ones do, but haven't found any tenor ones like these with truss rods.
Thank You for your comment Jordan. Please forgive any spelling typo as I have an infection in both of my eyes at the moment... It's always something..
Please read all of this:
Smaller Gutarlele's with a truss rod... Hmmm.. I do not. There is many ukulele and guitarlele manufacturers that do not make them with truss rods to off-set cost in production. Many think the string tension of the nylon or composite strings is less then say metal guitar strings, so they do not need to. But, necks can and do warp upwards after some time, so a truss rod should be like a default feature to have! And yes there are some baritone sized guitarlele that DO have a truss rod. The Kmise one that I have, does. There are others out there at least in baritone body size that you should be able to find.
(NOTE ANY FIX ACTIONS YOU DO IS AT YOUR OWN RISK):
Get ready for a long reply, and even if you do not want to try any of these things, at least you'll get a lot of knowledge from what I am writing. A few things.... First, It may NOT be these "fret related things".. but check this first... Is there any "fret wear" in the first four or five frets? Can you see any flat spots? If you hold the guitarlele up to a light (even a flashlight) do those flat spots looks shiny? Fret wear can cause those flat spots and buzzing. If that was the case, the frets would need to be re-crowned with a fret crowning file.. it is a pain in the @ss to do... I hate doing that. It could be however unlikely, that a fret has popped up and is too high and needs to be re-seated again that can happen, however not that likely for a new instrument. (continued below)
To me, from your explanation, It could be that the nut slots or string saddle is worn down just a tiny bit more and the strings are a bit lower and hits one of the fret(s). Also it not surprising to see because of the slotted head stock you have less tension of the strings than upright tuning pegs in a standard E tuning. Two easy things to try. One, raise your string saddle. loosen all the strings then move them out of the way to the side. Take a needle nose pliers and carefully put the white string saddle out of the bridge. Get sharp scissors and a wood popsicle stick (craft stores sell them as well) and cut off a thin layer / piece of the popsicle stick and put it in the bridge route that you took the saddle out of, then put your string saddle back in. Tune back to standard E tuning then try it again... that is called a "shim" what you just made. That will increase your string height more towards the body but it will also raise the first position of the strings that you are talking about a little bit higher. (Continued)
If that does not work.. your choice to either take the shim out or leave it in there and then loosen the strings again, take the strings off of the neck "string nut" near the headstock then cut small strips of paper and put them in each slot of the string nut, then put each string back in... just a little tiny bit of paper wedged under each string. What this does is it make the strings a little bit higher in each slot in the string nut, especially towards that end of the fret board. If that works, you can fill and re-cut the string slots in the string nut by mixing super glue and backing powered and then filling in the string slots (do not forget to using masking tape on the fret board and head stock in case of run offs!) then buy some string nut files from like Amazon and recut the slots after the superglue and baking soda filler dries. You also could take the nut out and make a shim like I went over for the string saddle BUT BE CAREFUL as many string nuts are super glued in and can rip the fret board wood when you try and take them out.
Know a few more things. One, I do not make any money for any of my videos. Two, the information that I just told you, other large channels out there will "rip-off" that information as their own, guaranteed.... And Three, if you want to bring your guitarlele in to a repair shop for any of the string saddle or string nut modifications, that SHOULD you cost you no more than $50.00. Don't get ripped off by any repair guys out there.. There is MANY repair shops that overcharge. It's one reason why I know how to do setups and the maintenance that I do on all of the string instruments I play. I would appreciate it if you subscribed to my channel if you have not done so already.. that is the only thing that I wish people would do for me. Thank You again for your comment. Let me know how things go.
@@MrTom-Songwriter-Composer Thank you for the very detailed reply. I'll investigate a little more and see if one of these solutions does the trick!
@@JordanICM One other thing to remember, your strings over the first four to five frets are always going to be lower than say towards the body most of the time. As a simple gauge, many of us older guys and gals out here use the "old school" method of using a U.S.A Dime for the first five frets and a U.S.A. quarter for say the 13 fret downwards. There is no set rules for higher string height as long as you can fit a U.S.A Dime and quarter between the metal fret wire ( those coins like right on top of the fret wire) and the string to pass easily under the string.. And again in those locations of the fret board WITHOUT buzzing, you'll be in good shape for string height.
@@MrTom-Songwriter-Composer Hi Tom. I followed your advice and ended up making my own shim. But I cut a sliver of credit card instead of a popsicle stick, since I had that lying around and on the forums they also recommended that. I was able to shave it to the correct width easily enough with a dremel tool I had. It seems to have nearly fixed everything! I'm very happy with the results. It's still very easy to play and there's much less buzz now. Super simple and cost me nothing. Thanks for you advice!
@@JordanICM You are Welcome, you will find repair shops and individual luthers use both plastic/composite shims and wood shims for string saddles. I recommend wood if possible.... But either / or will work. Remember, some times the environment can do small to very large changes to wood instruments. And you really need to keep your instrument hydrated regardless of the humidity settings in your house. I highly recommend you look up on RUclips how to make a ukulele humidifier out of a pill bottle and sponge, really easy to do. Put it into your instrument for two weeks every other month and it will keep wood hydrated. Wood Instruments can crack and I've seen that happen over the years. One last thing... What you did regarding making the saddle shim, if you went to a music shop they would charged you anywhere from $50.00 and many times try to over charge you upwards to $100.00 just to do that one small thing. Happy Holiday to you and have a great upcoming New Year.