I enjoyed the video . I going to repeat what I seen on those nylock buts . I would only use them one time . As I seen them back off and then bit you in the butt . I really prefer the double locking nuts and thr metal washer that goes between them . I just installed a hydroboost on my 95 that had vacuum. A lot more brakes now as it sure needed it . When my rear Brakes are used up I give this a try . I also don't care for the e brakes . Most will scoff at the idea but I use a micro lock on my front brakes . Work good for me . I would not want to set them up for long periods of time but they will hold
Great walk through! Thanks for the video! I'm currrently swapping to a dana 60 rear on my 90 w150. Naturally, i'm interested in upgrading to discs in the process. Your video explained a LOT for what i'm getting into! You advised a larger bore master cylinder; would i be ok running my stock one until I get around to swapping that out as well? (I understand the difference in plunger volume) Would the brake pedal travel be my only issue?
I tired it without the new master cylinder just to test it out and i couldn't really tell the difference between the small and big bore cylinder so I wouldn't bother. And thank you very much!
@@Yellow12Valve Thanks for testing it out, both ways! That'll save me a couple bucks! I'm sorry to hear the new master cylinder you bought, didnt make very much of a difference.
@@Yellow12Valve Shouldn't need it if the lines are bled the right way. Glad you did it so the rest of us know. What about the proportioning valve and resurgance valve? Really surprised he didn't send the full kit and you had to buy spacers. Are the breaks off a 79 Chevy 4x4 3/4 ton. Front or rear? I got a 1968 W200 Camper Special that never moved for decades. Dana 60. So it isn't worn hard at all. Has 4.10's in it. $100 from a Mopar guy. All said and done how much did you spend on this? I know its a lot of questions but I have a 83 RamCharger under construction.
Were those dorman studs longer than stock? Looks like yours were 2 11/32 " and the stock suggested was 2 1/8" ... don't know if it really matters though
No, I bought a kit from lugnut 4x4, you have to cut the bracket that holds on the drum shoes and weld on a new bracket for the calipers, I wish the directions were more clear and included some pictures, but I bought this kit a while ago, so they might have better directions by now.
I wonder if those brackets are meant for 2nd gen too
Wonder if they need the sharp edge
Guess I’ll find out soon on my 97
best video out there!
When it’s time to replace parts hopefully it’s not a pain to find what you need
It’s easier to find these disk brake parts than it is to find the first gen drum parts, at least in Canada
Run kitty run 😂 great video though. I saw him booking it when you were cutting the bracket.
I enjoyed the video . I going to repeat what I seen on those nylock buts . I would only use them one time . As I seen them back off and then bit you in the butt . I really prefer the double locking nuts and thr metal washer that goes between them . I just installed a hydroboost on my 95 that had vacuum. A lot more brakes now as it sure needed it . When my rear Brakes are used up I give this a try . I also don't care for the e brakes . Most will scoff at the idea but I use a micro lock on my front brakes . Work good for me . I would not want to set them up for long periods of time but they will hold
Great walk through! Thanks for the video!
I'm currrently swapping to a dana 60 rear on my 90 w150. Naturally, i'm interested in upgrading to discs in the process. Your video explained a LOT for what i'm getting into!
You advised a larger bore master cylinder; would i be ok running my stock one until I get around to swapping that out as well? (I understand the difference in plunger volume) Would the brake pedal travel be my only issue?
I tired it without the new master cylinder just to test it out and i couldn't really tell the difference between the small and big bore cylinder so I wouldn't bother. And thank you very much!
@@Yellow12Valve Thanks for testing it out, both ways! That'll save me a couple bucks!
I'm sorry to hear the new master cylinder you bought, didnt make very much of a difference.
@@Yellow12Valve Shouldn't need it if the lines are bled the right way. Glad you did it so the rest of us know. What about the proportioning valve and resurgance valve?
Really surprised he didn't send the full kit and you had to buy spacers.
Are the breaks off a 79 Chevy 4x4 3/4 ton. Front or rear?
I got a 1968 W200 Camper Special that never moved for decades. Dana 60. So it isn't worn hard at all. Has 4.10's in it.
$100 from a Mopar guy.
All said and done how much did you spend on this?
I know its a lot of questions but I have a 83 RamCharger under construction.
Can’t resurface the rotor off the vehicle with this type of conversion.
That “dana 60” looks a lot like a Dana 71. 😂
dave livesay is a first gen lord.
Were those dorman studs longer than stock? Looks like yours were 2 11/32 " and the stock suggested was 2 1/8" ... don't know if it really matters though
Looking for link on parts and part numbers on all. Need slotted rotors to. Thanks great video
If a bigger hammer doesn't work. It's an electronic problem
Is it the same process for a dually first gen ?
No, I bought a kit from lugnut 4x4, you have to cut the bracket that holds on the drum shoes and weld on a new bracket for the calipers, I wish the directions were more clear and included some pictures, but I bought this kit a while ago, so they might have better directions by now.
Gotcha
@@metalisawesome2811 did you get it to work though? I have a w350 dusky and want to do the swap instead of changing drums
I need a conversion kit for a 91 d350…