How strong are they and how would you build them to support a porch roof over a door, where the brackets fully support the roof, and how big of a load can they carry ( in general) ?
I would not use this method personaly for a porch etc, its probably strong enough but depending on how you cover the pitch. Its not that difficult to do mortise and tenon and use dowel through to hold the joint. Much more satisfying aswell knowing you have done it and looks alot nicer. 👍
This will easily hold a simple 3-4' long door/window roof with a 2-3' wide overhang. As previously mentioned, there are more ideal methods but if you're not as familiar with building methods then this will suffice. If you do happen to live in an area that receives large snowfalls I'd recommend at a fairly aggressive pitch on the final roof and obviously remove lingering snow regularly.
Remember, you can't get three 24" pieces out of a 6' piece of lumber, because of the width of the blade that's doing the cutting will remove additional material. What you'd end up with is two 24" pieces and (roughly) one 23 5/8" piece. Better to do it the way they did here, with the top piece being 23 1/2", or just use the off piece's length (23 5/8") as the top.
The closer you can get the angled part of the bracket to 45 degrees, the better. Imagine a lever and the shorter the vertical piece against the wall, the more of a lever the horizontal piece becomes which is not good. The ideal situation is that both legs are equal so yo can get the bracket at 45 deg. But to answer your question, it depends on how well the vertical piece against the wall is bolted to the structure. I am guessing 30 pounds? But that would be x 4 if the bracket is at 45 deg.
I'm looking to do something similar. I need to make one to hold up a desktop for a floating desk. It's a piece of Birchwood 8 ft wide by 36 inches deep. I only need one bracket. Will it hold?
Imagine using this triangle as a shelf holder, will it be stronger the way yours is or when the top horizontal piece attaches to the side of the vertical piece? If you know what i mean. Thanks
I am not sure what you are asking but the bracket will hold more weight if the top horizontal piece is sitting on top of the vertical piece as show at 7:42 in the video. This means you are not relying on the strength of the screw holding it together but how it's mounted to the wall matters. These brackets held up the over hang of a roof so they will definitely hold a shelf :) Thanks!
do you have any recommendations (or videos) on how to attach a corbel to vinyl siding? thinking to take out a porch post and instead use a bigger corbel
Great videos guys how would you attached that to the house..? and where are the points on the bracket where you would drive the deck screws through ? thank you
If the brackets are carrying the soffit load I would use 8" cabin framing type screws into solid blocking that would have been installed prior knowing that the soffit load needed to be considered. Otherwise, if the brackets are just aesthetic, you could use like a 2" Kreg tool framing system to install them.
If the brace appears to be carrying a light load such as the edging of the joist, do you think I would need to add a support to substitute the existing brace while I hand a new one? my house is a bungalow home so you can get an idea. thank you I appreciate your advise
@@oscarluquin8107 Yes, you might want to include a temporary support. I have seen many old bungalows where the roof decking was just pieces and provided no support for the overhang and that is why the installed these back in the day. You can almost see this when the overhang would sag sometimes.
If hey are carrying any kind of load we use these big 8" framing screws but if the are just decorative we use the Kreg tool pocket jig to attach them. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I am building a 56" wide roof/awning over our door. I see you are using shorter screws in the video because it is a sample. What size screw would you use in the real thing? Also, if I've already got the vertical board attached the wall, how would you suggest attaching the piece that comes out from the wall?
You don’t need really long secrets to attach the angle brace to the bracket. The 2” pocket hole screws are plenty long. We use 6” lag bolts to attach the bracket to the house. One up about 3” down from the underside of the top piece and one down low in the flat above the chamfer. Both of these go into blocking we put into the wall when we are framing or sometimes into the corner framing. If you frame corners correctly (NOT California corners) then you will have plenty to bolt to. Thanks
@@ArtisanTony Thank you for your reply. We are building a little differently than your video, so we have a much longer vertical piece already bolted to the house, and I am wondering how to attach the piece which supports the roof, that comes out of the wall at 90deg, because this will not be sitting on top of the vertical piece, it will go into the face of it. I'm guessing a couple of screws at an angle? If so, how long should they be?
@@diazastro You might want to invest in a pocket whole tool like this one 320 Kreg Pocket Hole Jig which are like $40. You can even get the one hole system cheaper I think. This system is incredibly strong and you can buy the wood plugs to fill the holes. We use our all the time for applications like you just mentioned. All of the weight is on the end of the bracket where the brace is anyway so it should work fine.
I would have to go back and see but if you give me the size you want I can tell you. We would just come back from the chamfer on the top a few inches and then up from the bottom chamfer at least 3 inches and that would give you the length. As long as you cut 45's on the ends it will fit and make the bracket square.
@@ObscurelyTitled My math says 50.91" or basically 51" this would give about 4" on the end of each leg for the angle and a flat spot for bolting/screwing it to the wall.
After all of the harassment the bees took in that pasture that I didn't know was going to get bulls, I really want to find a place where I don't feel like I am going to kill another hive. Now they may have not died but they sure left the hive. I really want to but I can't find a place yet. I can't keep them hear at my house. I have a neighbor who is afraid of them. She saw the hive I built and thought I was going o keep them hear and kind of freaked out on me. My wife is retirign soon and I am moving to the country :)
![Summer Walker - Heart Of A Woman [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SFddctbZzw8/mqdefault.jpg)
Another option on material is use 2x4's doubled to get your 4x4 stock
but you can see that the 2x4s are doubled so I don't like it :) These untreated 4x4s are not that expensive.
was looking for a part where you secure / screw the cross brace into the 90° since i'm doing a photo point structure, thanks.
How strong are they and how would you build them to support a porch roof over a door, where the brackets fully support the roof, and how big of a load can they carry ( in general) ?
I would not use this method personaly for a porch etc, its probably strong enough but depending on how you cover the pitch. Its not that difficult to do mortise and tenon and use dowel through to hold the joint. Much more satisfying aswell knowing you have done it and looks alot nicer. 👍
This will easily hold a simple 3-4' long door/window roof with a 2-3' wide overhang. As previously mentioned, there are more ideal methods but if you're not as familiar with building methods then this will suffice. If you do happen to live in an area that receives large snowfalls I'd recommend at a fairly aggressive pitch on the final roof and obviously remove lingering snow regularly.
Remember, you can't get three 24" pieces out of a 6' piece of lumber, because of the width of the blade that's doing the cutting will remove additional material. What you'd end up with is two 24" pieces and (roughly) one 23 5/8" piece. Better to do it the way they did here, with the top piece being 23 1/2", or just use the off piece's length (23 5/8") as the top.
You are correct. We try to plan out our material as part of the design. Thanks
Bjazevic@aol and a
Great stuff fellas thank you! Did you just cut two mitres to get them to fit? If you want a longer brace, you are into cutting a different angle then?
How much weight would 4 ft top 1 ft side and 3 ft angle hold. I know it’s specific. But I have an idea. Lol
The closer you can get the angled part of the bracket to 45 degrees, the better. Imagine a lever and the shorter the vertical piece against the wall, the more of a lever the horizontal piece becomes which is not good. The ideal situation is that both legs are equal so yo can get the bracket at 45 deg.
But to answer your question, it depends on how well the vertical piece against the wall is bolted to the structure. I am guessing 30 pounds? But that would be x 4 if the bracket is at 45 deg.
I'm looking to do something similar. I need to make one to hold up a desktop for a floating desk. It's a piece of Birchwood 8 ft wide by 36 inches deep. I only need one bracket. Will it hold?
Imagine using this triangle as a shelf holder, will it be stronger the way yours is or when the top horizontal piece attaches to the side of the vertical piece? If you know what i mean. Thanks
I am not sure what you are asking but the bracket will hold more weight if the top horizontal piece is sitting on top of the vertical piece as show at 7:42 in the video. This means you are not relying on the strength of the screw holding it together but how it's mounted to the wall matters. These brackets held up the over hang of a roof so they will definitely hold a shelf :) Thanks!
@@ArtisanTony My bad , English is not my first language but you answered my question thanks!
I use a Kreg!
I do too, I have one of the original solid aluminum models :)
What is the size of 45⁰ piece pls reply
do you have any recommendations (or videos) on how to attach a corbel to vinyl siding? thinking to take out a porch post and instead use a bigger corbel
Brilliant video, exactly what I was looking for! Thanks
Thanks for watching! :)
What do you think about adding clearance holes before screwing the wood screws? It should make the piece sticks better, right?
Yes, we did not do that because we had not decided on the location of the bolts mounting them to the hoyse but yes, good idea. Thanks
Great videos guys how would you attached that to the house..? and where are the points on the bracket where you would drive the deck screws through ? thank you
If the brackets are carrying the soffit load I would use 8" cabin framing type screws into solid blocking that would have been installed prior knowing that the soffit load needed to be considered. Otherwise, if the brackets are just aesthetic, you could use like a 2" Kreg tool framing system to install them.
If the brace appears to be carrying a light load such as the edging of the joist, do you think I would need to add a support to substitute the existing brace while I hand a new one? my house is a bungalow home so you can get an idea. thank you I appreciate your advise
@@oscarluquin8107 Yes, you might want to include a temporary support. I have seen many old bungalows where the roof decking was just pieces and provided no support for the overhang and that is why the installed these back in the day. You can almost see this when the overhang would sag sometimes.
I need to make some of those.
For how easy they are to make, they look pretty good :)
Wanted to use a 36 - 42 inches overhand on the side of my shed (12 foot)
Thinking it can work with longer boards same method ?
did you have any luck with this? I have a 36” overhang too and was wondering if this type of bracket would work instead of a post on my porch
Great tutorial! Thanks very much. Just wondering how to attach these bad boys outside of my garage
If hey are carrying any kind of load we use these big 8" framing screws but if the are just decorative we use the Kreg tool pocket jig to attach them. Thanks!
Thanks for your response! 🙏🏼
Thank u sooo much i love those brackets you guys are ancinspiration to us diy
Thanks much!
ArtisanTon
Thanks for the video. I am building a 56" wide roof/awning over our door. I see you are using shorter screws in the video because it is a sample. What size screw would you use in the real thing? Also, if I've already got the vertical board attached the wall, how would you suggest attaching the piece that comes out from the wall?
You don’t need really long secrets to attach the angle brace to the bracket. The 2” pocket hole screws are plenty long. We use 6” lag bolts to attach the bracket to the house. One up about 3” down from the underside of the top piece and one down low in the flat above the chamfer. Both of these go into blocking we put into the wall when we are framing or sometimes into the corner framing. If you frame corners correctly (NOT California corners) then you will have plenty to bolt to. Thanks
@@ArtisanTony Thank you for your reply. We are building a little differently than your video, so we have a much longer vertical piece already bolted to the house, and I am wondering how to attach the piece which supports the roof, that comes out of the wall at 90deg, because this will not be sitting on top of the vertical piece, it will go into the face of it. I'm guessing a couple of screws at an angle? If so, how long should they be?
@@diazastro You might want to invest in a pocket whole tool like this one 320 Kreg Pocket Hole Jig which are like $40. You can even get the one hole system cheaper I think. This system is incredibly strong and you can buy the wood plugs to fill the holes. We use our all the time for applications like you just mentioned. All of the weight is on the end of the bracket where the brace is anyway so it should work fine.
@@ArtisanTony The pocket holes worked really well! Thanks for the advice.
@@diazastro They are stronger than they look :)
If I bolt two of these brackets to the studs in my garage and run a steel pipe across, can it work as a pull-up bar? Thanks.
I don't see why not but test it first :)
@@ArtisanTony The steel pipe will hold for sure. I'm just wondering about the bracket and studs. Thanks.
@@ArtisanTony Did you use #10 screws? What length? I don't know much about wood working and this info would help greatly. Thanks again!
@@LaserrSharp we used the 2 1/2" framing screws that Kreg has then we lag screw it to the framing of the house.
@@ArtisanTony Perfect. Thanks!
Great video, thank you.
How long was the center piece with the 45s?
I would have to go back and see but if you give me the size you want I can tell you. We would just come back from the chamfer on the top a few inches and then up from the bottom chamfer at least 3 inches and that would give you the length. As long as you cut 45's on the ends it will fit and make the bracket square.
@@ArtisanTony ok thank you
@@ArtisanTony how about for a 40" H + 40" D? How long would angle piece be?
@@ObscurelyTitled My math says 50.91" or basically 51" this would give about 4" on the end of each leg for the angle and a flat spot for bolting/screwing it to the wall.
would this hold up a punching bag?
if it was lag bolted properly to the wall :)
Angles not housed in
So no beekeeping this year
After all of the harassment the bees took in that pasture that I didn't know was going to get bulls, I really want to find a place where I don't feel like I am going to kill another hive. Now they may have not died but they sure left the hive. I really want to but I can't find a place yet. I can't keep them hear at my house. I have a neighbor who is afraid of them. She saw the hive I built and thought I was going o keep them hear and kind of freaked out on me. My wife is retirign soon and I am moving to the country :)
Thank you
That doesnt fit. The screws to small. Better use a Offset. Not 45°.
It does fit, you see it with your own eyes. I have sold hundreds of these for houses all across the US I think you just like trolling nice try lol
That brace is to long
Yo is that ed sheeran?
That is Barret, my son, he is just as good a musician though :)
MESURES?????? talk but not mesures
😒 skips showing how to cut angles. . .
On a miter saw :) they are both 45 degrees
@@ArtisanTony thank you, lumber is too costly to make guess cuts. 😁