Subaru engine comparison, FA20, internal weakness secrets
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
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In this video Brett explains the hidden side of the Subaru FA20 Turbo engine. Whats strong and whats not.
FOR MORE INFO ON THIS CAR VISIT:
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Wow, lifetime warranty guarantee, thats a rare thing from an engine builder!
Wish you guys were here in the U.S.A
We are ruclips.net/video/-jDrkEEK99E/видео.html
You guys may want to franchise out your business model and branding globally. As a country rep they would be MRT certified through training etc. Shops abide by MRT guidelines, customers would be assured of getting proper work done to their vehicles. Lot of consumers like me will not get work done at local shops cause we are afraid of workmanship.
Turbos really take a lot of work and dedication. You can't drive them without maintaining a certain discipline from when you start up until you switch off the engine.
That guy got lucky! Knowing my luck the block would have multiple viewing ports
Good video Bret. Glad I was able to visit your shop when my wife and I was on vacation in Australia in 2016.
17 wrx ets 3" catted tbe no muffler cobb intake and stage 2+ tune have 20k miles on set up and runs like a champ, exhaust pops and crackles like mad! Lots of fun
Reading this in 2020 im curious to see how you're holding up with the mods another year later? Im about to go stage 2 with a similar setup, catted ets j with muffled exhaust, doing the cobb intake, grimmspeed ecbs and tgv/egr deletes as well.
@@Jonathan-yk4du
DO IT! Ive since added TGV and EGR deletes and grimmspeed ebcs with a pro tune from snail performance...car makes 300 WHP. Go for it!
zachary seelbach I already got a date scheduled for my tune I’m installing the parts soon haha, did you do the actual egr delete or just unplug?
@@Jonathan-yk4du I did the actual delete. Im not a great mechanic and i was able to pull it off. It just took me a long time.
zachary seelbach yea I’ve been going back and forth trying to decide which one to do, I may unplug to start and see how things go, from what I’ve heard it’s pretty much the same result, nice to remove unnecessary parts tho.
don't mod it too much, simple engine power mods and ull be fine, the only prob I had with mine is the pitch stop mount, fixed by perrein pitch stop bracket, group N trans and engine mount ,, every issue has a solution, awesome vid
nice poster girl in the background lol
MRT you blokes are golden, all manufacturers have to build engines for fuel efficiency thus polluting less, just about all manufacturers have engine problems these days, the engines don't last as long due to emissions requirements, they have to sell vehicles into Europe which have strict emissions regulations, one just has to drive with that in mind and service the engine at proper intervals with the proper oil.
i'm picking up my 2016 wrx in a few days .Cant wait to get the mods going with you guys ! keep up the videos
Thanks for the video.
I'd like to mention the audio is rather low (your engine comparison video also has low audio).
Why Subaru? Everything else in the car is longitudinally symmetrical, but noooo we're gonna have off-center rods...
The main reason for this is so the rods/pistons can be removed without removing the crank like in the older EJ an EZ engines. Off-center caps allow enough clearance through oil pan galley to remove the cap bolts
Kenny is right though it does also lower the center of gravity.
My FA20DIT has 35K on it and its running like a champ! Did a hard break in too. XD
killersushi99 hard break in eh? Thanks for reminding me why I didn't buy used.
Oregon Phototrekker Because nobody pushes a new car hard during a test drive. XD I test drive 2 others with the salesman telling me to get on it.
My car wasn't test driven - it was delivered and had 5 on the odometer when I picked it up. The STI I test drove was a used version.
I'm just sayin' - Subaru and other manufacturers recommend a break-in period for a reason. Longevity may be compromised if a new engine is pushed a lot. A test drive may not be that much but a lot of hard driving in teh first 500-1000 miles probably isn't a great thing for the engines.
Oregon Phototrekker We shall see.
Nice
great video guys! Never seen much on this fa20 yet, very interesting points :)
thanks, please share and subscribe :)
Sure ruclips.net/video/-jDrkEEK99E/видео.html
Great info Brett, can you do a comparo between the 5mt gearbox and the new 6mt gearbox?... I read somewhere it's just the same box with an extra gear chucked in hence same clutch problems.
spot on
Brett..I am in the US and considering buying a Forester XT Touring. I am concerned about engine reliability w the new FA20 models. W proper break-in, if i do intend to drive it hard, should I b concerned. I do currently have a nicely modified '02 WRX, the first sold in this country. I just know me and tho I take excellent care of my car, I will drive it hard in and out of L.A. and the areas in the mtns. Is this new model XT durable enough?
Also, If I were to mod it, it would only b something like exhaust, intake and accessport. I just want your opinion on what you think of the product, as an expert in the field.
(I am almost tempted to get an Infiniti QX 50 w the 3.7 V6, w durability in mind...tho mpg will def suffer there!)
Thanks for any advice...
Andrew
choose good mods carefully and you should be ok
My new subaru did this with no modifications at 6 thousand miles! The dealer brought the car back, said its a common issue.
WRX or STi?
At least they were nice enough to buy the car back instead of turning you away for beating on the car before it's break in period was up. My neighbor scored the cylinder walls of his Challenger the first week he got it because decided to be stupid showing it off at a car meet. They read the ecu figured out what happend and denied his warranty claim.
Damn that is rough. I can understand being excited to get the car you wanted but man..
From what I hear, keeping torque down ( below 350 ft lb) seems to be the most reliable before the rods go. I eventually would like to do a built block in order to reliably hit 350-400 WHP reliably while running E85. Of course, for that to happen we need better HPFPs.
Because the BRZ/FRS/GT86 engine has both port and direction injection unlike the older EJ series, Tuners of this platform tend to get around the more costly high pressure fuel pump upgrade by simply upgrading the port injectors and low pressure fuel pump.
What do you think about used 2010 Subaru Exiga from Japan? I am thinking of getting one because of the additional space and height
Hi there, Just wanted to start by sayin that video was very informative. Makes me wish I had seen it sooner lol like 3 years sooner. So I have a 2015 forester xt with theb same problem as your describing. Knocking noise due to rods, my mechanic has also confirmed this upon inspecting. My question is and pls keep in mind my car is completely bone stock, so ya back to my question lol. Is it more sensible to rebuild this motor perhaps with better rods or just replace with a low km used motor? Thanks in advance for any input.
@@Rotor-Sims Hey man hows your wrx holding up? Im thinking about going stage 2 and want to get honest thoughts from experienced peeps.
So are the rods you want straight? Or are you stuck with a off center rod for assembling purposes
Wondering on piston ring gap?? Cause that if not ajusted for boost will bind the pistons and cause rods to bend as well
That doesn't look off centre, there's a straight line between the little end, big end, and beam. It also looks to be pretty good mirror image up until the bolts. It has a rotated bolt assembly but i believe it's wrong to call it off- centre
Seems to me that in a flat engine where coolant and oil doesn't need to struggle against gravity nearly as much as an upright or a v, the aftermarket might look to a high speed tool steel for the crank and rods. They can cut them popcan thin and be just as strong, it would reduce weight a lot.
Similar issue that the 4g93 (the 1.8l engine found in Australian deliver Lancer turbo sedans) they bend rods aswell solution was forged I beam instead of h beams.
nice video, heard the VA is actually better than the EJ fuel economy wise, reaches peak torque at half (2000) of the sti's EJ (sti 4000) boost sooner and less turbo lag.
looking to upgrade to a stage 2, looking at grimmspeed/cobb arrangement, however after my whole air conditioning unit failed (clutch, bearings, smell coming into cabin, bearing grease burning off) and had to be replaced under warranty im possibly going to delay upgrade for a time and start accumulating parts.
I love your videos but PLEASE go buy a cheap wireless mic set like the sennheiser g3, it's hard to hear you. I'm a recording engineer, message me if you need more info on this.
Very knowledgeable and great presentation
It will be interesting to see where the fa 20 series will end up
Probably in the 2018 sti with better con rods and a larger turbohhhhhhhhh
You seem to know alot about the fa20. Which oil brand do you recommend for this motor?
Motuel
Rotella t6 5w40
I'm assuming the car this engine came from was modified? Do you know what mods were done/how much power it made? I'm looking at a 2017 wrx for a daily driver and am really looking for reliability if it's left stock.
Great videos! I have a 2018 wrx and its paid off and has 13k on it now. I was going to wait til about 20k and then get a catted j pipe a ebs solenoid and a pro tune. What's your opinion on this as a daily driver??
Am I purchase the 2014 Haynes repair book and follow the procedure of timing chain. My car spun a rod a couple months ago but there’s no book for the 2017 wrx
Love the info my man keep up the good work!
I have a Forester XT. Cylinder 1 got broken only after 110,000 k/m. Looking for a replacement engine for almost a month now..
I was overtaking a car at 80mph and the rod bearing failed... "Partly slipped" out of the rod's bottom part... Subaru not covering the issue, stating it was due to oil starving but the car's fluids have been done 2 days before, at the gas station (and I checked all the fluids levels once home), what's the best rebuild option? New short block or just resurfacing + new rods assemblies and pistons?
awesome vid!!!!!
thanks, please subscribe :)
Like the person below my comment wish you guys were in the USA.. I just recently picked up MY18 wrx and was wondering what would you recommend.. I'm not trying to boost up more.. but id like to free up some restrictions with upgrades such as stg.2/ stg.3 on my FA20dit thanks! 👍
Since the boxer engine is naturally balanced I don’t understand why they don’t produce them to simply be indestructible... forget the short life high performance bs and guarantee people basically a high torque performer that lasts 300k plus. People will forgive the lack of performance for longevity. I know I would
Based on all this. I am planning to do forced induction on my 2013 Scion FR-S The car has 60.000 miles even Out of the two systems I have my heart set on which one will be a little easier on engine internals if I daily drive 99%of the time push the car once or twice a year Jackson Racing c30 supercharger factory tune carb legal at 9 psi or a Jdlturbo at 6 or 7 psi? Please respond to this what is a safe boost range for the fa20 engine thanks
Could you make a video like this but for the new FA24?
Great video, thanks!
My FA20 WRX peak boost, according to the onboard says, a peak of 22.3. I assume this is fine? Pretty regular on the freeway WOT it’s reads 16-18. This all normal then?
Where can I get that poster / calendar you have in the back ground ? Secondly I have 2014 GT86 ... completely STOCK ... 19,000 miles on it. Do I need to worry about this comrade ?
Thanks in advance
This is why I just leave my engines stock I just upgrade the oil system and get a temp gauge that's it.
How do the eom fa20 dit pistons hold up with xbeam rods? Looking for 400-500 hp on flex with the 71r. I dont know if I want the cold clanking sound from forged pistons.
Is this bending because of the compression being constant or that and the combination with high temperatures?
The rods are already bent from the factory in a sense due to their asymetrical nature so they fail at lower power levels than typical straight rods. The compression isn't constant it reaches a sharp peak at top dead center and this creates a combination of heat and back pressure that stresses the system. It makes for a higher performance NA engine but if it's boosted it is better to lower the compression and let the boost making device do the compressing work.
Great info as usual!
thanks, please share and subscribe :)
Hi I am looking to purchase a 2016 wrx limited. I believe this car has the FA20 Engine, i do not plan to mod for power. Would you say this is a reliable engine without any mods?
I have 2016 wrx premium which motor wise they're identical. Without mods its fine. I didnt have any issues at all when It was stock.
So what's MRTs opinion on the future of the FA20 with regard to the STI? I've heard a new engine is due for that car in 2020, and I can only assume it will be based on the FA20. What factory changes need to happen before it can be reliable for STI levels of performance? Fully forged internals? Closed deck? A return to 90s bulletproofing?
one word CONRODS!
The bent rods, is this an issue with the '14 WRX? I got a bit lost.
My engine was down on power, I could not track down the issue. Car behaved excellent under load even when down on power. One day it just spun a rod on the day of my compression test. Ill have to wait until I get my new engine before I can see what went wrong on the other one.
Zcypot You have a EJ in your car and not a FA20 like they showed here
lol. A Subaru spinning a rod. Not surprised at all. Also, you have a 2014 not a 2015. 2015 was the introduction of the FA20. But don't worry about it too much, they're both shitty engines.
😂😂😂😂
Hi MRT performance.
I have a MY08 wrx ej25 and fitting a GTX3071R on it this weekend and letting it be tuned on a dyno but bringing the psi down to stock to keep the standard motor happy. How much psi can standard rods and pistons take with reliable tune?
we never go past 17 psi on 2500 cc WRX.s
I have an 2017 WRX with the FA20DIT obviously. Question for you. I have a turbo back exhaust, a 3 port Electronic boost control solenoid, and TGV Deletes with a conserative tune. Do you rhink thats pushing my engine too much?
I had my ej55 rebuild and the water hoses swell with air....also it doesn't have pedal response and has the cruise light blinking.... any ideas?
You're a wonderful person 😊❤️
But the frs/brz/gt86 fa20 has rod bearing and connecting rod failure also and of couse they dont have boost. So why are they still failing?
That's only the early models and it was because of the valve springs,I have over 100k miles of trouble free driving in my 2015 gt86
Hello in in America and about to purchase a wrx do you kno of any companies in America that do good tunes for these cars like you all? I do plan to build the engine down the road but do want to Mod the car ASAP. Please and ty sir
best e-mail us
What do you recommend to prevent this from happening obviously besides not adding more than 21 psi. Is there any upgrades that help reliability?
depends on mods
But these engines fail even stock. It is a design flaw
@@chinchy111 Sold mine for a Tacome. No worries there lol
Hello! What compression ratio will you recommend to run on forget pistons for FA20DIT? I'm thinking between 10,1 and 9 compression ratio or lower. My goal is 380+ whp. Thanks!
this varies with the pistons and rods you choose, suggest around 9 for forced induction
With the FA20 engine failure compared to the EJ engine failure which engine is better to get if I’m NOT modifying my STI?
I'd like to know the answer to this as well
Hello i wat to ask if I can use the brz piston in engine Wrx 2015 FA20 with the same compression 10.5:1?
sure !!!!!! if you want all kinds of problems! LOL are you forgetting that the BRZ is NA, and the wrx is turbo?
Some times your videos are so scary!
Yeah ruclips.net/video/-jDrkEEK99E/видео.html
By chance would you mind telling me if this individual that had too much boost to their rods running a stock turbo? I was thinking of going stage 2 and getting a good pro tune. I do want to have reliable power. I would like to achieve about 300-310 awhp. I'd only get quality parts and have a good tuner work on it. I would appreciate any advice.
from what I've seen you're probably not going to get 300-310 with just a downpipe stage 2 set up. I have a catless 3in turbo back,front mount intercooler, dw300c fuel pump, EBCS, intake, and TGV deletes making about 315 to the wheels on 93 oct but I would 100% recommend an electronic boost control solenoid. Most motor failures I've heard of with the FA20 are from wastegate failure causing extreme over boosting rather than a shitty tune. Id say go with a downpipe, EBCS and replace all the vacuum line clamps with better ones feel out the car for a few moths and see what it wants.
john cederroth john cederroth I'm running a stage 2 setup with Cobb catted non-resonated downpipe, Invidia N1 dual exhaust catback, Grimmspeed EBCS, and Cobb Big SF intake. My 2016 WRX got 290whp/290lb-ft on 93 octane. With the TGV deletes, new intercooler, and fuel pump I would expect a bit more than the 300-310whp? I also asked my tuner to be a bit on the conservative side with my tune.
I really love the gt86 i never want to add some power extra to the car but im afraid still those fa20 fail. I dont know if subaru is reliable some people says oh .y forester has 300k miles ans work great but other cars are a disgrace.
What defines an excessive amount of boost and on what turbo
Many things play into this. There is excessive boost limited by the engine, or excessive boost limited by the turbo. You know the turbo is maxed out when higher boost does not make higher power but makes the intake temperature hotter. If a small turbo is pushed too hard it will make the air going into the engine so hot that the fuel will constantly ignite prematurely causing damage that way. An engine's knock/ detonation sensor can identify this. In the case of this video however the turbo was fine but the engine could not mechanically handle it. Turbos are typically rated for an efficient power level zone where they are happy and when an engine is built their is a known mechanical limit so excessive boost is anything that starts flirting with or going over that power limit.
is a hks 2.1 stroker kit a good alternative?
in the owners manual, says the wrx peak boost is 15.9psi. I've seen my boost gauge register as high as 22 but stay consistent 14-18 psi. is your 21 peak being what the turbo itself can handle or the internals of the motor as well?
BellaWrx _NJ if you're going to upgrade turbo you're going to have to put more work into the engine as well to withhold the power of the turbo pretty much with the Pistons and connecting rods and crank rods as well but if not, then a stage one or stage 2 ECU tuning with better headers, high flow cat converter and a turbo cat back exhaust can give you reliable power
SYNCPHAN1OM that is exactly what I was planning to do down the road. the twinscroll is a good turbo as it is so no need changing since would just cost more money in the end. I was just always very scared of the max boost all the internals can take in the stock block.
BellaWrx _NJ yeah so if anything just do the basic modifications and you're all set for now
I'm about to do all my work at Cobb in plano. Which shop did you go to? Are they reliable? Did you take your hardware to them and pay them to install and tune it for you?
My stock wrx with stock map fa20 has made 22lbs of boost
Thanks
get a proper tune for the mods you have put on your car and put good fluids into your car. Change your fluids properly and earlier rather than just being "on time". Treat your car right and it will treat you right. People just tend to treat their cars like garbage.
What amount of boost is considered excessive boost for a stock fa20 gt86 engine?
I would say around 7psi should be good spot. It's still really risky though.
Hello i just blew up my 2015 wrx and it was all stock. I have a catless down pipe. 3 port EBCS and a mishi moto intake my protune said he wants to get the car and put the parts on for a baseline tune as soon as it’s rebuilt. (Before the break in) and then come back once broken in for a full tune.do you think this is safe and or smart? or do think I should break it in stock and then take it to him for the mods. He said it will prevent it from blowing again if I do it this way
err, has your new FA series engine got HD rods and pistons?
This is a PRIME example of why subies get a bad reputation. You are replacing all the wrong parts first !!!!!! Your intake and downpipe are pretty much just pretty add ons right now. Like MRT states - you best start with rods and pistons, Then seriously consider upgrading your fuel system before your intake and downpipe will even function properly. Without upgrading your fuel system , you are going to run too lean with them.
djteako I agree with everything you said accept that my FA20 won’t run right with these parts... I’m getting a protune that’s very conservative 17 lbs... so I don’t think that will hurt anything I use my wrx as a daily not a race car. I like to boost it on the way to work but I by no mean rod my car like other teenagers...
And please don’t feed me I need a bigger fuel pump and injectors to run an intake and DP...
djteako I do agree I’m dancing with the devil but if it goes again I’ll know... it’s already all rebuilt and I didn’t pay a dime... I was just wondering about the break in process but I got that figured out.. like I said I really don’t think if I have a conservative tune for those parts and I’m not running lean I don’t think I could harm my engine with such simple mods....
What is the difference between the FA20 in the new Impreza Sport and the FA20 in the BRZ, WRX? Can you add a turbo to the new Impreza Sport without destroying it?
Don't you know, FB20 has the same weaknesses? I've heard about 0.9mm thickness pistons oil rings, that are too thin to be good?
Fb20 junk ruclips.net/video/-jDrkEEK99E/видео.html
i have a 2016 wrx limited with egr delete,iag aos,perrin oil cooler, GrimmSpeed ebc, process West verticooler,dw300,ets intake,ets 3" tbe catted and mufflers,tgv still in makes 330whp and 344tq on 93 octane
You seem to have found a sweet spot. Any update on how it's holding up?
has it blown up yet?
ahhaha. There's a lot of people running similar setups. From what I know, he is at the maximaum TQ before problems append. People running 400+ WHP actualy try to keep the TQ down to 350... normaly is settup is totaly fine
Alex Guay torque down is key
The "witness" mark. I call it the snitch mark because I aint no rat. I keeps it realz kid... Lol just kidding. Great video my man. Take my sub!
I've always been suspicious of asymmetrical rods. Seems like anyone with sense on this platform would go aftermarket if they wanted to make any appreciable power.
so if i wnt to push around 25-26 psi on my 16 wrxx i should upgrade he con rods and bearings?
The factory turbo is IN efficient after 22 - 23 PSI, so you will also need a turbo AND Rods!
:)
going to upgrade with steamspeed stx 67 do you guys sell kits for USDM?
no
asking for compression spec
Does MRT have a vendor/re-seller in the States?
no :(
:( I had my fingers crossed for a minute haha, but thank you for the reply. Keep the videos coming I enjoy the knowledge you provide the enthusiasts.
good info ty
what should be the compression on 2015 sti
143gurmukh 8.2
hi! i just bought an sti 2016. im planning on adding a downpipe, catback exhaust, intake and accessport. Are these upgrades safe for a stock block? can i get ringland failure? also, is equal length header more relible than unequal?
almanu04 they are safe and you will actually be preventing ring land failure with those mods, as long as it's tuned properly. I sound also suggest equal length headers for further ring land protection
headers have zero effect on piston strength
thye more mods the more the risk
a reliable tune reduces the risk, but even stock they still cam SOMETIMES fail
MRT Performance
I've found...
cylinders 2 and 4 scavenge air better on the UEL headers based on length of piping. They In turn flow more air as well. In doing so creates more back pressure on 1 and 3 creating a more rich condition than 2 and 4. Since wideband is measured where these all come together it doesn't show up on a map as a lean condition. Then all you need is an aggressive tune, poor quality fuel or a combination of both with uel headers and you have a recipe for rebuild.
None of those mods would have really any effect on the pistons, he said over boost was the cause so unless you are blasting 30 psi and driving at full throttle and a daily basis then you will be ok.
so the point is that Subaru makes weak performance engines, except the 2 liter that the Japanese has which revs very high.
You mean 30psi on the stick engine will mess it up? Whaaaaaat.
Guess that explains why Subaru never bothered with the FA20 in the STI.
I understood the angled con-rods in the FB series as it is designed with fuel economy in mind, but the FA is clearly designed for power & performance (BRZ, WRX, Levorg GT etc.), so why the hell did Subaru think that would be a smart idea sharing the same rods?
The s207 2015 my may have the fa20 if im not mistaken and the new 2018 sti may have the fa20dit with stronger con rods and a bigger turbo. the ej is outdated and they are replacing it soon
Nick Blenderman As long as more durable parts are used internally, it should be fine. The block & heads seems to be holding up, and I haven't heard of FA ring land or oil issues...yet
+Trades46 Apparently the crank journals starve at higher hp. element tuning did a write up on it if you're interested. 😃
Yeah, the real limiter of the rods is high amounts of torque, as well as the other drawbacks of DIT cars, which are slim.
Highly doubtful 2018 gets a new engine mid-gen, people have beeing calling the ej25s outdated for a while but Subaru doesnt seem to think so. And the s207 has the ej207 I believe, at least the newer jdm STIs do.
we hope
Thanks for the info on the garbage small block. I will keep my ej motor. Switching to chain is not worth the hassle.
Edward Cornell pretty sure the fa is faster tho 😂 both basic turbod and na
@@myevilrabbitgames doubt it. In my case I already switched out the shortblock on mine for one that handle double the amount of boost.
@@edwardcornell1263 A short block doesnt make it fastrer just stronger. The fa is 200 na while the ej is around 170 na. give both the same turbo the fa comes out usually around 290ish whp while the ej is like 180 or so whp
mine is at 135 137 psi is that good
huh?
Good video but poor audio!
You know these guys are for real! Why? There is a poster of a girl in a bikini in the office! Cheers!
could this be the cause of excess oil consumption?
Mel Hugh most likely high turbo pressure that have made the rings go bad
no
not always, but can be that as well
;)
Audio needs to be louder.
to keep an ej257 reliable you need to run 98 octane, an air oil separater, high quality oil and keep boost under 18psi.
all examples of ringland failure that I have witnessed have been caused from either poor tuning or crap fuel (sometimes both)
KAVINSKY311 and all this doesn't guarantee that you won't hurt a ringland. Detonation is also a big factor.
i would guarantee it since i will not detonate if you run it like that. Unless of course if you get it tuned by someone who doesn't know what they're doing.
KAVINSKY311, that and the unequal length headers that were given to usdm models does not help your engine either.
right wing conservative stunt bums 77 America's 93oct is equal to Europe's (and the rest of the world's) 98oct
Subaru has their work cut out in the US. By 2025 mpg targets are supposed to be between 45 and 50. For a company that has like 5 models that are all AWD or RWD, that's tough. Weakness in the FA motors is no doubt related to this. Oh well.
mrmagnetsarecool I'm running every bolt on possible plus meth on my 16 WRX still getting 35mpg
Its 3AM but I cant stop
on 2015 wrx sti
my car is stock and has an indicated peak boost of 22.9 has a cvt....hmmmm
Paul verstraete....That 22.9 is just a boost spike, not "actual boost"...But that factory tune is dangerous...Get a stage 1 map and you wont get crazy boost at low rpms...Thats what kills these rods
My Subaru story. Had 100 percent bone stock sti changed oil every 3000, and had oil separator sit still blew up replaced motor it blew up again 30 k later then I sold that POS...
Rob styles stock tune is the worst tune. Tends to run lean on high boost. Should’ve gotten a pro tune.
I love how subie owners (I was one for 3 years) always blame the driver and not Subaru's inferior engineering. Yall really need to stop being their crutch because the produce a sloppy product. I have owned Lexus ISF for 3 years and it runs absolutely smooth and perfectly even under high stress high load high mile an hour situations. Yall need to stop and just admit Subaru makes crappy engines. Maybe not the S209 that's a question still but all the others turbo and non are hit or miss and usually MISS. I dumped thousands of dollars into my blob eye and it failed. It's not a proper performance vehicle in the reliability department
There's always that one guy who says "I own so and so and it never had a problem! Therefore X is crap. I validate my statement as fact because I owned Y for Z number of months or years so I'm an expert". Paraphrasing but that's what's implied in your comment. (Why a Lexus owner is here on a Subaru engine video is a mystery for another day.)
So using that same logic, I must ask:
Since I own an 86 (with a shitty Subaru engine), for 6 years, and 3 years boosted at 1 bar, why is mine still running fine (so far anyway)? Do I have a somehow have a godlike superior tuner or is it more likely you were a poor owner who couldn't take care of a car properly or otherwise pushed it beyond it's physical limitations? Even the famed 2JZ can have trouble when you try to double it's factory horsepower without reinforced parts. That's well in line with what to expect when you double the horsepower of an 86 or WRX without proper reinforced parts, relatively speaking.
If you think I'm joking, you can verify. The basic consensus states to keep it under 600 to ensure longevity of stock internals, (you can argue 800 is the upper limit but I'm speaking about power balanced with longevity of engine parts without immediate reinforcement) depending whether you are speaking about JDM 280HP 2JZ or USDM 300~320HP 2JZ that is double or less than double stock power on stock internals, in line with what the shitty Subaru engines are capable of on stock internals, surprisingly more so given the high compression ratio.
The engine is overengineered to a degree, not as much so as the 2JZ of course but the fact that you can still get the power that you can out of those crappy Subaru engines with their crap internals and high compression ratio is an impressive feat.