In this video I take some nice fir logs and cut them into slabs and clear quarter sawn lumber for fir flooring. Stay tuned for a future video when I make beautiful fir flooring!
saw bench to cut them to a standard width, if you want them the same. A 4-sider plane with blades to cut a tongue on one side and another to cut a groove on the opposite side and two flat blades to plane the surfaces then in one pass the T&G floorboards are finished. To install, the boards can be secret nailed after cramping tight.
If your budget allows get a 4 side molder planer. If you want to start on a smaller scale I have a 24” grizzly planer with a shelix head on it. Satisfied with the end product. To get a straight edge I have a unisaw but if you plan to hire help I suggest sawstop because of insurance. The first few thousand board ft I used a 2hp router in a table with tongue and groove bits. The one thing for sure is to use a power feeder. I want one or three. New sub to this channel. I have been watching the mining channel for a while now.
nice stock. A large top table saw and a shaper would be good. A 1/2' router built into the table saw could replace the shaper and cost a lot less. A set of matching bits might do the job for conifer stock.
Hey Jason, Surprised you didn't take that 'wonky' log and cut timbers for the mine. So now you're starting "S&J Flooring Products"??!! Is this going into your house or are you going to sell it?? Or both? Great update! Thumbs up! Stay safe. Jim
quarter sawn fir is pretty expensive, so valuable lumber. Clear quarter sawn, (but a bit tighter rings that this) is ~ $11.00 a bd foot locally, (KD or AD) Quite a bit more than plain sawn.
you can take a one inch cut to remove the pith and get a furniture grade slab, then cut the remaining halfs down into rift and quarter sawn lumber. Rift sawn is a bit stronger than quarter sawn. I see you were making double cuts, or two pieces per pass at the end of the video. I enjoyed seeing the video. I've been looking for a while for a good quartersawing video and this is the best.
Also! for the wood stack at the end of the video, place some heavy boards on top to weigh it down. A top weight is important for lumber drying strait. The ones at the bottom of the stack are always flatest, but the top ones will cup unless you put some heavy pieces on top. Quarter sawn lumber should remain especially straight though.
Machine you need, just a planer. Don't buy a jointer. Your quarter sawn materials will be flat. Jointers are extremely dangerous. probably just a router and you're set. Dont cut the material into 3" boards, get the full size pieces you can make. you can make a stack of 3" and a pile of 6" to grade the lumber into two sizes for better yield. I hope you read some of these comments of mine and find it helpful! I'd be happy to talk more about woodwork.
Saturday morning, coffee, new S&J and MBMM videos, a few lines from Fred. Life is good.
Thanks Trevor! Glad you are enjoying the vids and Fred's one liners 😅
Love to see Fred! He is legend! Nice saw work!
saw bench to cut them to a standard width, if you want them the same. A 4-sider plane with blades to cut a tongue on one side and another to cut a groove on the opposite side and two flat blades to plane the surfaces then in one pass the T&G floorboards are finished. To install, the boards can be secret nailed after cramping tight.
Love this channel Jason 🤝👍
If your budget allows get a 4 side molder planer. If you want to start on a smaller scale I have a 24” grizzly planer with a shelix head on it. Satisfied with the end product. To get a straight edge I have a unisaw but if you plan to hire help I suggest sawstop because of insurance. The first few thousand board ft I used a 2hp router in a table with tongue and groove bits. The one thing for sure is to use a power feeder. I want one or three. New sub to this channel. I have been watching the mining channel for a while now.
well done
Amazing. Nothing like wood! And the guys who work with it.
Hey Jason good to see you and Fred, I run thr woodmizer mp260 4 sidded molder planer, works awesome
nice stock. A large top table saw and a shaper would be good. A 1/2' router built into the table saw could replace the shaper and cost a lot less. A set of matching bits might do the job for conifer stock.
Hey Jason, Surprised you didn't take that 'wonky' log and cut timbers for the mine. So now you're starting "S&J Flooring Products"??!! Is this going into your house or are you going to sell it?? Or both? Great update! Thumbs up! Stay safe. Jim
quarter sawn fir is pretty expensive, so valuable lumber. Clear quarter sawn, (but a bit tighter rings that this) is ~ $11.00 a bd foot locally, (KD or AD) Quite a bit more than plain sawn.
Large sander,
I can tell you a way to quarter saw
you can take a one inch cut to remove the pith and get a furniture grade slab, then cut the remaining halfs down into rift and quarter sawn lumber. Rift sawn is a bit stronger than quarter sawn. I see you were making double cuts, or two pieces per pass at the end of the video. I enjoyed seeing the video. I've been looking for a while for a good quartersawing video and this is the best.
Also! for the wood stack at the end of the video, place some heavy boards on top to weigh it down. A top weight is important for lumber drying strait. The ones at the bottom of the stack are always flatest, but the top ones will cup unless you put some heavy pieces on top. Quarter sawn lumber should remain especially straight though.
Machine you need, just a planer. Don't buy a jointer. Your quarter sawn materials will be flat. Jointers are extremely dangerous. probably just a router and you're set. Dont cut the material into 3" boards, get the full size pieces you can make. you can make a stack of 3" and a pile of 6" to grade the lumber into two sizes for better yield.
I hope you read some of these comments of mine and find it helpful! I'd be happy to talk more about woodwork.