I'm wanting to do kinda the opposite. I want to swap a 4494/4493 into a Colorado to gain the AWD mode. Have you looked into this? I'm trying to anticipate any issues I may have with the electronic controls. I'm wondering about whether I need to do something with the traction control system (TCS). My understanding of the H3 is that it uses the TCS to manage wheel slip among all 4 wheels by applying differential braking to the wheel(s) that are slipping, because it has no mechanical LSD in the front/rear diff and the transfer case works like an open diff in AWD mode. The Colorado/Canyon I believe similarly uses the TCS to manage wheel slip, but in 2WD mode. So, I believe it may only detect slippage and apply differential breaking between the left and right rear wheels. I don't want to have to turn TCS off. I'm also swapping the H3 front suspension and front/rear axles for the wider track and to avoid the need to bypass the front axle disconnect. This is going to be a go-fast(ish) street truck.
Im not very familiar with the C/C trucks. Obviously they are very similar and I think the BW should bolt up okay. Controlling it may be a challenge. You are correct about the H3 ABS…it has four independent ports at the master cylinder, to vary the pressure to each corner. I don’t see the point of swapping axles, other than to get the H3’s 4.56 gearing and electric lockers. I assume they are the same track width.
@@4speedfunk Thanks buddy. The track width of the H3 is significantly wider (57.5" vs 65"). It's one reason why some swap the H3 axles/suspension. Besides the wider track, by swapping you get (1) an 8.6 10 bolt rear (C/C came with the 8.0, except for the later V8 trucks); (2) stronger iron diff cases (C/C were aluminum); (3) bigger brakes; and (4) basically every suspension component is bigger/stronger. Since the H3 and C/C are related, the parts swap like Legos.
@@4speedfunk yup. next H3 you SAS, you could sell the take-off parts as a DYI H3 swap for the C/C folks, or, offer as a service in-house. Would probably be a nice additional income stream. Plus, at over a 1000lb lighter, the C/C are pretty capable with the OEM H3 stuff.
Do you still have your Hammer with 2WD? I want to make this conversion because I don't need 4WD where I live. Any tips? Great video, I little bit scare to open the transfer case 😅 Thanks!
Yes...I have done five or six of these, and they are all driving around with no issues. This mod won't do you much good unless you also have disconnecting hubs (all of my installs were with solid axles). This kit will disconnect the front output of the t-case but, you still need to somehow disconnect the front hubs to get a TRUE 2wd.
@@4speedfunkI see in the video that actually you're sending all the power right to the rear dif. I want to also reduce weight. 1. Can I remove front dif, shaft and hubs? 2. Is there a way to send the power right from the transmission to the rear dif and remove this T-case using a long driveshaft? Thanks! 🙏🏻
1. You can remove the front differential, driveshaft, and halfshafts…but not the hubs. Also you need to gut the outer CV joints and install the stub shafts into the hubs with the proper torque. Put the t-case in 4HI-lock. That will make a 2wd Hummer. 2. You must remove the t-case adapter from the tail shaft of the transmission and install a shorter output shaft. You will have numerous dash lights on permanently.
@@4speedfunkThank you so much for your answers! Yes, I was talking about the axels, no hubs... My mistake! 😬 I was looking for an extension tail housing and output shaft adapter for the 4L60E and remove the short housing that is connected to the tcase but I know what you're saying about the dash lights lol Thanks again for your time!
Your welcome! I might also add that you can remove the front drive line (like you inquired about), and drive around indefinitely in 4HI-lock. This will basically give you a 2wd Hummer. You can leave the t-case in place, to keep all the dash lights off. The front output will still rotate but, it won’t do anything with the driveshaft missing. I have driven for YEARS like this…no problems at all.
The variable full-time output assembly (sun & planetary gears) gets replaced with a simple splined coupler. It permanently couples the rear output shaft to the input shaft, and the chain sprocket that drives the front output is allowed to free-spin. So in all three modes...the rear output is solidly connected to the input, all the time. The front output is controlled via the fork and it functions just like stock...either locked or unlocked. Then the range fork will select low or high like ratio just like stock. The only downside to this kit is that you give up your full-time variable (torque sensing) mode...something that I really like about the H3. But, the trade off is worth it if you are doing extreme wheeling, and don't want to spin a big, heavy, solid axle all the time. You must have the ability to un-lock the front hubs (solid front axle swap). Not sure this mod has any advantages with the stock IFS, as you have no way to disconnect the hubs. I have been driving it around for a few months...love it so far.
@@truckman29801, Contact George at transfer cases unlimited. He manufactures and sells the 2WD kit. His email and phone number are below. transfercasegeo@aol.com 631-226-1448 Tell him CJ at THORparts sent you.
I'm wanting to do kinda the opposite. I want to swap a 4494/4493 into a Colorado to gain the AWD mode. Have you looked into this? I'm trying to anticipate any issues I may have with the electronic controls. I'm wondering about whether I need to do something with the traction control system (TCS). My understanding of the H3 is that it uses the TCS to manage wheel slip among all 4 wheels by applying differential braking to the wheel(s) that are slipping, because it has no mechanical LSD in the front/rear diff and the transfer case works like an open diff in AWD mode. The Colorado/Canyon I believe similarly uses the TCS to manage wheel slip, but in 2WD mode. So, I believe it may only detect slippage and apply differential breaking between the left and right rear wheels. I don't want to have to turn TCS off.
I'm also swapping the H3 front suspension and front/rear axles for the wider track and to avoid the need to bypass the front axle disconnect. This is going to be a go-fast(ish) street truck.
Im not very familiar with the C/C trucks. Obviously they are very similar and I think the BW should bolt up okay. Controlling it may be a challenge. You are correct about the H3 ABS…it has four independent ports at the master cylinder, to vary the pressure to each corner. I don’t see the point of swapping axles, other than to get the H3’s 4.56 gearing and electric lockers. I assume they are the same track width.
@@4speedfunk Thanks buddy. The track width of the H3 is significantly wider (57.5" vs 65"). It's one reason why some swap the H3 axles/suspension. Besides the wider track, by swapping you get (1) an 8.6 10 bolt rear (C/C came with the 8.0, except for the later V8 trucks); (2) stronger iron diff cases (C/C were aluminum); (3) bigger brakes; and (4) basically every suspension component is bigger/stronger. Since the H3 and C/C are related, the parts swap like Legos.
Wow. That’s a huge difference in width. I’ve cut apart dozens of H3’s but have yet to do anything to a C/C.
@@4speedfunk yup. next H3 you SAS, you could sell the take-off parts as a DYI H3 swap for the C/C folks, or, offer as a service in-house. Would probably be a nice additional income stream. Plus, at over a 1000lb lighter, the C/C are pretty capable with the OEM H3 stuff.
@@4speedfunk FYI: (rear H3 swap) ruclips.net/video/dV57yHiAk5U/видео.html (front H3 swap) ruclips.net/video/FU1f4tPKUWY/видео.html
Do you still have your Hammer with 2WD? I want to make this conversion because I don't need 4WD where I live. Any tips? Great video, I little bit scare to open the transfer case 😅 Thanks!
Yes...I have done five or six of these, and they are all driving around with no issues. This mod won't do you much good unless you also have disconnecting hubs (all of my installs were with solid axles). This kit will disconnect the front output of the t-case but, you still need to somehow disconnect the front hubs to get a TRUE 2wd.
@@4speedfunkI see in the video that actually you're sending all the power right to the rear dif. I want to also reduce weight. 1. Can I remove front dif, shaft and hubs? 2. Is there a way to send the power right from the transmission to the rear dif and remove this T-case using a long driveshaft? Thanks! 🙏🏻
1. You can remove the front differential, driveshaft, and halfshafts…but not the hubs. Also you need to gut the outer CV joints and install the stub shafts into the hubs with the proper torque. Put the t-case in 4HI-lock. That will make a 2wd Hummer.
2. You must remove the t-case adapter from the tail shaft of the transmission and install a shorter output shaft. You will have numerous dash lights on permanently.
@@4speedfunkThank you so much for your answers! Yes, I was talking about the axels, no hubs... My mistake! 😬 I was looking for an extension tail housing and output shaft adapter for the 4L60E and remove the short housing that is connected to the tcase but I know what you're saying about the dash lights lol Thanks again for your time!
Your welcome! I might also add that you can remove the front drive line (like you inquired about), and drive around indefinitely in 4HI-lock. This will basically give you a 2wd Hummer. You can leave the t-case in place, to keep all the dash lights off. The front output will still rotate but, it won’t do anything with the driveshaft missing. I have driven for YEARS like this…no problems at all.
How’s your fuel mileage after this mod?
Never use “mileage” and “Hummer” in the same sentence!
Seriously…no change.
Hello.I have a problem with my 2006 h3 were the tranfer case shift to neutral while driving . What keeps the 4 h engaged?
That could be sticking buttons on the dash, or a worn shift (plastic) shift fork.
any plase where i can order this kit?
Transfer Cases Unlimited
Does this not just lock your awd into 4H so now you just have 2 x 4H? I don’t understand how it disconnects drive to the front
The variable full-time output assembly (sun & planetary gears) gets replaced with a simple splined coupler. It permanently couples the rear output shaft to the input shaft, and the chain sprocket that drives the front output is allowed to free-spin. So in all three modes...the rear output is solidly connected to the input, all the time. The front output is controlled via the fork and it functions just like stock...either locked or unlocked. Then the range fork will select low or high like ratio just like stock. The only downside to this kit is that you give up your full-time variable (torque sensing) mode...something that I really like about the H3. But, the trade off is worth it if you are doing extreme wheeling, and don't want to spin a big, heavy, solid axle all the time. You must have the ability to un-lock the front hubs (solid front axle swap). Not sure this mod has any advantages with the stock IFS, as you have no way to disconnect the hubs. I have been driving it around for a few months...love it so far.
Hello sir. YOUR video is very helpful. I'm trying to locate the conversion. What is the part number?
And how much does it cost
$499 from Transfer Cases Unlimited in New York.
I see, so the fork that used to lock/unlock center diff now can lock/unlock the front drive chain?
wherewhere can I buy the parts thanks for sharing your video can I buy the parts
Transfer Cases Unlimited….
transfercasegeo@aol.com
@@4speedfunk would you be able to send me a quote to buy this kit? I've emailed but no reply yet.
@@truckman29801,
Contact George at transfer cases unlimited. He manufactures and sells the 2WD kit. His email and phone number are below.
transfercasegeo@aol.com
631-226-1448
Tell him CJ at THORparts sent you.
Link to buy parts
Transfer Cases Unlimited or THORparts.com
No computer issues with this?
None.